tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37149160836690990222024-03-18T11:32:05.274-04:00Rocket ScienceJed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.comBlogger182125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-24747584515798290262024-01-25T20:27:00.004-05:002024-01-30T18:02:31.303-05:00Random updates<h2 style="text-align: left;">AMD Epyc workstation build</h2><div style="text-align: left;">The H11DSi motherboard I had, which was damaged in shipping so I got for free, wouldn't post, probably because it was damaged. The ebay seller I bought two Epyc 7302's from sent me a 7302 and a 7662...the latter is a lot more expensive, but I need two of the same for the dual socket H11DSi. Installed one in socket 1 of the motherboard to test it. The motherboard powered on, but the BMC LED didn't come on like it was supposed to and it never posted.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcuicCNpzBZl3_jT_XMO9Xxsq48BYAVUgqa7iuLcJhjp_r_jHgfqrVc27l-WhZJANoYUduCfrxftuj-aGwLzw0uNYweQ211ZXJcP4Wp0rQM5WPUe45nBId4hdfBXSTlr0N7DC3y4isYNyP2CeJUVp-u_B74TmyQinSKtGMJQCSAzHyRkmRLzj6mk2IsAk/s4608/IMG_20240109_085541077_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcuicCNpzBZl3_jT_XMO9Xxsq48BYAVUgqa7iuLcJhjp_r_jHgfqrVc27l-WhZJANoYUduCfrxftuj-aGwLzw0uNYweQ211ZXJcP4Wp0rQM5WPUe45nBId4hdfBXSTlr0N7DC3y4isYNyP2CeJUVp-u_B74TmyQinSKtGMJQCSAzHyRkmRLzj6mk2IsAk/s320/IMG_20240109_085541077_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">These problems coupled with the price of 7302's and epyc motherboards increasing for some unknown reason, and lack of motivation led to me abandoning this project. Having good computing resources at work helped kill the motivation. I'm currently in the process of selling off all of the parts. For a brief time I owned a Tesla V100 and two P100's, though. These are great for turning watts into double precision FLOPs.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Y5esTbOhp8FZsiyYjajLDLjOVrUOrrg0grlo53fK-fbneUBSh9Md-r9XJfkigNXnjOzFNebYjF_wkBTyJ0fHgi0-5n5DBCRjxRw-fcc0FlRCWkzArie147W1DDrrCX5gD8sfRZf_uR6I1tAhBLsnbxIdpLoL5b2nMi3V8J-VMfyJMf24O3Gw4AuKMX8/s4608/IMG_20240122_082745443.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Y5esTbOhp8FZsiyYjajLDLjOVrUOrrg0grlo53fK-fbneUBSh9Md-r9XJfkigNXnjOzFNebYjF_wkBTyJ0fHgi0-5n5DBCRjxRw-fcc0FlRCWkzArie147W1DDrrCX5gD8sfRZf_uR6I1tAhBLsnbxIdpLoL5b2nMi3V8J-VMfyJMf24O3Gw4AuKMX8/s320/IMG_20240122_082745443.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oooo....shiny</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Home media server</h2><div style="text-align: left;">Currently building a home media server/NAS combo in the old headnode's case. I3-13100T, Asrock Z690 Pro RS, 32GB DDR4, 1GB NVMe boot drive, and 6x18TB=108TB raw HDDs. I finally got it built, but it also wouldn't post (UGH). The DRAM error LED was lit, so maybe the new corsair RAM I bought was bad. OR the brand new motherboard memory channels are shot. OR the processor I bought was bad (was supposed to be a new pull...). I bought another motherboard and more RAM to test, one of those things should fix it. The motherboard has 8 SATA connectors, using 6 for the HDDs, one for a Bluray drive (that I'll put old/hacked firmware on for ripping blurays), and one for an external hotswap SATA port, which I'm planning to use for testing HDDs and creating offline backups. 2 HDDs are shucked WD external drives that I got for cheap on black friday. The other 4 are new Dell-branded Seagate Exos I got from serverpartsdeals for a great price with a 3 year warranty. If you need HDDs or server parts, they're a great company to buy from. They shipped the HDDs in anti-static bags, in custom closed-cell-foam holders in a box, wrapped in fancy bubble wrap, inside of another box.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVw12aM4cYQsM-kTVHKBJencF-755-3-6TNj5F3sdB1pdgOlBQCZ6-MYGC1RUQCAwhOYg-UwAv2_xVllqnaLY5JeiYmGwMEqvOqy6AcSt7mWQKWlxifUu89T4cjsqEnEFh5vGlFkN_QZLuF4W01EqAOVkE0KCAz1ziQdZyhr1qmln9uUil58_fJ6m2WN4/s4608/IMG_20240109_085601538.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVw12aM4cYQsM-kTVHKBJencF-755-3-6TNj5F3sdB1pdgOlBQCZ6-MYGC1RUQCAwhOYg-UwAv2_xVllqnaLY5JeiYmGwMEqvOqy6AcSt7mWQKWlxifUu89T4cjsqEnEFh5vGlFkN_QZLuF4W01EqAOVkE0KCAz1ziQdZyhr1qmln9uUil58_fJ6m2WN4/s320/IMG_20240109_085601538.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old case, new guts. Decided to use this one <br />because of all the space for HDDs.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The software plan is to install Ubuntu and Docker, and run TrueNAS core (ZFS) in a docker container, and the *arrs, jellyfin, pihole/fail2ban, wireguard, etc in other containers, but I haven't fully figured all of that out yet. There are a bunch of online guides for these things. Going to use RaidZ2 for two-drive-fail-safe, which should give me about 65TiB usable space, which is roughly double what I think I'll need in next few years. If I become a data hoarder, there's room for at least 10 more HDDs in there, and the motherboard has a pcie x16 slot for a HBA..also has a couple x4 slots, which might be enough bandwidth. If tech improves a lot by the time I need more space, I'll just replace the whole server. Solid state storage might be cheaper than HDDs by then.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Update: It was the bios. Updating it to the latest let it post. Maybe a 13th gen proc support problem? If that's the case, idk why the DRAM error light was on. I'm keeping the 4x8GB RAM installed. The 2x16GB RAM will be useful if I ever decide I need 64GB. I returned the spare motherboard. I installed ubuntu on the 1TB NVME drive, uninstalled a bunch of crap that comes with it, and ran short SMART scans on the 6 HDDs. I need to figure out how to use badblocks, smartctl, and smartd to check and monitor HDD health.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">3D Printers</h2><div style="text-align: left;">I bought a creality K1 on black friday. It's awesome. </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm2vpI6xbgYji0VRP7vmecaoryWYxtOmnG8ejNpHNHD0TcxSN3WWXjmUWF77aBg82gPJIFpEfUagxR7nhWGzUtOrLnzP3sFmS2DGOQzdRU2H9c0deeH1RFWt2jH73lEOssYlp01lG0Fkab0uZPtwMjcKFIFKFFuRWhh3SzCR_03akY7ndJnnBzzIXYYeE/s4608/IMG_20231208_180706236_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm2vpI6xbgYji0VRP7vmecaoryWYxtOmnG8ejNpHNHD0TcxSN3WWXjmUWF77aBg82gPJIFpEfUagxR7nhWGzUtOrLnzP3sFmS2DGOQzdRU2H9c0deeH1RFWt2jH73lEOssYlp01lG0Fkab0uZPtwMjcKFIFKFFuRWhh3SzCR_03akY7ndJnnBzzIXYYeE/s320/IMG_20231208_180706236_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /> </div><div style="text-align: left;">It was only $380. I have about double that "invested" in the wanhao i3 and the K1 prints way faster and better. Amazing how far FDM tech has come. Unfortunately, this is going to hurt motivation to finish CubeXY. I'm planning to transition to prusa slicer from cura soon.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Other</h2><div style="text-align: left;">I put a trailer hitch + wiring kit on my prius.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi49kOpZlBnaRTC1Z9BrJCMOdUSuFZo1wEspO061Phyphenhyphen-G0WqX0rzEKNL_XlURH3CiWbhHkE6uoc2nORKDcc1XT0-pTUwXj_-U9eI_S8v_aG_AzBVvfzdPeS7heEzfU7yuNdGwT2ErXnn2-RdB0ZUSSml7QpDel6B81Evd0g9loPKupEfgIIoqB9lrY1AjQ/s3456/IMG_20240123_173151276.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3370" data-original-width="3456" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi49kOpZlBnaRTC1Z9BrJCMOdUSuFZo1wEspO061Phyphenhyphen-G0WqX0rzEKNL_XlURH3CiWbhHkE6uoc2nORKDcc1XT0-pTUwXj_-U9eI_S8v_aG_AzBVvfzdPeS7heEzfU7yuNdGwT2ErXnn2-RdB0ZUSSml7QpDel6B81Evd0g9loPKupEfgIIoqB9lrY1AjQ/s320/IMG_20240123_173151276.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Curt brand. They sell them for just about every vehicle, and the instructions were surprisingly good/easy to follow. Only thing missing was how to deal with the plastic underbody cover. I took it off first, but apparently didn't have to. Getting it back on after installing the hitch required cutting it in a couple places. Of course, that means that if I hadn't taken it off first, then whoever worked on that part of the car next would have to cut the cover off (or take the hitch off), so maybe it was a good thing to do. Overall, took about 2.5 hours. Anyways, the reason I did this is that basically every experience I've had with renting a UHaul truck/van has sucked. Now I can just rent a utility trailer, which is a lot cheaper, too. Should pay for itself in 3 trips where I don't have to rent a truck/van. </p><p>I made a reservation for an Aptera a little over a year ago. They
recently removed the estimated delivery date, though, sigh...I think the
prius will last a few more years at least, so maybe I'll get the solar
car by then. </p><p>I was at AIAA SciTech for a day to give a talk. Unfortunately caught COVID for the first time, ugh. Over it now. </p><p>Haven't done much in the garage. Cleaned a corner of it, so progress? Ha, one day...</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">1/30/24 update: </h2><p>I got to use my hitch! I bought a Craftsman 152 table saw off marketplace. It was in fantastic condition and for a decent price. It was on a sled with wheels, which was convenient. I towed it home on a 5x3' home depot ramp trailer that only cost $25 to rent. I backed the trailer up to the garage and rolled it right in.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirjP2yl1EOvOoUG0gJuF0MC3AfCOVO2rSpjEc9GMaZfcUFhHE6_RI0TqlLrylylNQHc5YbKVK2bMIfkIjbDZrBtvZtqAUR7RiH3WvPZSRyqAHAM7tdfLo2KbZUP9CLXerYlDkxpLXH_N89xxb612Kc1jFaxJ8fqkndPbF5taSNjDRP9Ls9kYTEaybvL1M/s4608/IMG_20240127_182342033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirjP2yl1EOvOoUG0gJuF0MC3AfCOVO2rSpjEc9GMaZfcUFhHE6_RI0TqlLrylylNQHc5YbKVK2bMIfkIjbDZrBtvZtqAUR7RiH3WvPZSRyqAHAM7tdfLo2KbZUP9CLXerYlDkxpLXH_N89xxb612Kc1jFaxJ8fqkndPbF5taSNjDRP9Ls9kYTEaybvL1M/s320/IMG_20240127_182342033.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bad pic, mosquitos were swarming me<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>I'm going to sell the 113 saws, probably as they are (in parts). I decided I'm far more likely to actually make things if I don't have to spend 10+ hours rebuilding one. <br /></p><p> </p><p> </p>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-19658639816568728872023-11-19T15:49:00.013-05:002023-11-19T16:49:40.381-05:00Well that sucked...<p>Can't believe it's been over a year since I posted anything...nevermind, I can, cause most of 2022 and 2023 sucked. Amid a plethora of life crises, I found out in September that my comps were expiring in December, which meant it was do or die for my PhD. That and all the other terrible things that happened made these the worst few years of my life. But this isn't a life blog; I'll spare you the depressing details, so fun things only:</p><p> </p><h2 style="text-align: left;">PhD<br /></h2><p>First, and finally, after over 7 years as a PhD student and over 10 as a grad student, I'm a Dr. Since I work with launch vehicles, do related research, and am a thermal-fluid subject matter expert, I guess I'm now officially a rocket scientist? I'm so glad it's over, feels surreal, or maybe that's just shellshock+severe burnout+trippy-exhaustion. I'm not sure I'd ever recommend getting a PhD for an aerospace engineer,
except maybe if you want to do controls or teach, but I definitely
don't recommend trying to get one while working full time. Once you start making real money, motivation and time plummets...there's nothing quite like being on grad-slave wages to motivate finishing. I've heard working while studying is not too bad with a flexible/supportive work place, an excellent advisor/department, and a
straightforward project. NASA is a fantastic place to work and, compared to most companies, very understanding of life problems and supportive of higher education. My research had data quality issues (from one
experiment I didn't design or run) and was anything but
straightforward. That + life :( + real job $= zapped motivation to work on it = 7 year PhD. Don't do what I did, just don't. I'm glad it's over.<br /></p><p>The projects that were part of the PhD were pretty cool, though, both related to microgravity propellant slosh dynamics. I got to ride in a Zero-G plane, which was the coolest thing I've ever done and funnest experience I've ever had. <br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCkFtZ8QmQuAym2PcvV6ePVmSS5KGiaAGCWhgawQUL5kX-2hArCVVQCdMffRjy6Ya4OKE0tImIVINcmAglWd4rFxBx_Sf-FNchchIJ9g1Ov3g1BxU1WYxkdamz91eBLI6Q4VbpI17R2BbDSRMnDUznt5NpHHPchJxXPTxUcAnJgrYov8eh2iEruH2jdCI/s595/jed_zerog.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="432" data-original-width="595" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCkFtZ8QmQuAym2PcvV6ePVmSS5KGiaAGCWhgawQUL5kX-2hArCVVQCdMffRjy6Ya4OKE0tImIVINcmAglWd4rFxBx_Sf-FNchchIJ9g1Ov3g1BxU1WYxkdamz91eBLI6Q4VbpI17R2BbDSRMnDUznt5NpHHPchJxXPTxUcAnJgrYov8eh2iEruH2jdCI/w400-h290/jed_zerog.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floating upside down<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p>About 1/3 of the plane puked, but I don't get motion sickness, so it was a blast for me. If you ever get the chance to go on a zero-g plane, do it. I'm still writing a bunch of papers from this research and stuff that spun off it. <br /></p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Mill<br /></h2><p>I got a mini mill off marketplace for a steal. <br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhP1n7yix-Fa2muxmIRDPeMFZKOQ08nf1GHLQR1WhcO6nGSNGCJeN1XVZkzFEe1fS4VseEHGQSBSXjYgtpK2TT47Xzmb3xvYWFLTyjm9BopKbq3MVUc5ZNohf3hxUR-miczXg-iCUiBDpeWGb0TJLpNWtXeNpVpdYQ4ZT4cIUNt29WryNtI2V_nyAxiyA/s4608/IMG_20231010_124303030_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhP1n7yix-Fa2muxmIRDPeMFZKOQ08nf1GHLQR1WhcO6nGSNGCJeN1XVZkzFEe1fS4VseEHGQSBSXjYgtpK2TT47Xzmb3xvYWFLTyjm9BopKbq3MVUc5ZNohf3hxUR-miczXg-iCUiBDpeWGb0TJLpNWtXeNpVpdYQ4ZT4cIUNt29WryNtI2V_nyAxiyA/s320/IMG_20231010_124303030_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mini mill is mini<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p> Now I have a mini-mill and <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgzQmm8eA-LZZ0nKuHGKolxkpySm7Tccv0o58KKefn-Pecg9YZgKBXfD3Gf0D8SKh2pmU9-TorM9WBRl_BhHIAaqEUss9g-zAMtAdqspKmvkYMeEs0LZAcU25D6TeU3E_O6ncJWjZ9Hs/s1600/IMG_20210720_204349142.jpg">mini lathe</a> (relocated), though haven't done (had the time and energy to do) much with either yet. It's sitting on the antique workbench I refurbished....oh! I learned from a car guy why the oil-based paint took forever to harden: FL humidity. You really need to use a dehumidified paint booth in FL. I'll probably make one out of a pop up tent and AC/dehumidifier next time I need to paint something.</p><p> </p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Really, it's not a life blog...well, maybe a little<br /></h2><p>I'm jealous of people who have big home machine shops. That's been my dream since MIT, actually probably since high school, although I can't remember much of anything from back then. I know the me-from-then would be depressed to hear I'm still not quite there yet. I can now see the light at the end of the tunnel, but getting there is, and will continue to be, so much slower than I'd like. Part of the reason is this house...the garage has a low ceiling and is at the bottom of a steep driveway, there's just no good way to get a large mill or lathe in it. Also doesn't have land to build a shop. So I'm planning to move...eventually. House has a bunch of issues that have to be fixed before I can sell it, but it's not like I can afford a house with the current interest rates even after selling this one, so heck knows when that'll happen.<br /></p><p>Also, I mentioned NASA is a great place to work, but the salaries are badly lagging industry ...That was always to true to an extent, but inflation and talent demand from all of the rocket companies has made it so much worse the past few years. I applied to blue origin and got an offer way (wayyy) over what I make now, but it came down to a quality of life (more hours, no work from home, less PTO, etc) vs. money thing. I ultimately stayed at NASA. I mentioned my life was sucking...not going to try to convey that here, but most of that wasn't money driven, so I think choosing QoL over money was the right choice, despite a lack of funds being one of the reasons I don't have a nice shop. <br /></p><p>I know I said this wasn't a life blog, but I want to say this: <b>life is messy</b>. There are so many posts, articles, blogs, vlogs, etc showing people having everything you might want and living perfect lives...all of it is garbage. They only show you what they want you to see. Unless you're rich, real life isn't like that, so don't feel bad when you see that crap. AI is just making that worse because now pretty much everything on the internet can be faked: pictures, videos, and even whole blogs. There is so much click-bait like "I built this [insert amazing thing] in 1 day!"...bullshit. Them lying like that to generate ad revenue bugs the shit out of me if I let it. I try to be open/honest about how much time and effort the projects I document in this blog take, and I mention everything that inevitably goes wrong. I also don't, and will never, monetize this blog. Ignore all the BS, do your own thing, go at your own pace, and try to have fun when life isn't sucking. I know I'll probably be 40 before I get the shop I want, about 20 years later than I wanted, but I'll get there. </p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Small Parts Organization</h2><div style="text-align: left;">While I didn't have time to do much else related to the shop, I did have time to finally organize all of my screws and small parts. You can actually see some of the organizers I started to accumulate back in late 2021 in a picture in <a href="https://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2021/12/workbench-part-3.html">this post</a>, but I didn't start organizing in earnest until this year. The organizers are the <a href="https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Plastic-Heavy-Duty-Interlocking-Organizer-with-Slide-Lock-2-Pack/396141900">Hypertough ones from Walmart</a>, which are the same as the HDX ones from Home Depot except the HDX ones have orange latches and inserts instead of red. They come in 2 packs, used to be $10, then it was $12. Ended up needing over 30 of them. I designed bin <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5777348">inserts</a> for the organizers, which actually cost more in filament than just buying more organizers, though they do save space and are convenient. I designed stackable cabinets to hold them. <br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx0QpKQryPM2EG7UqrqDTHrySpUh45anX2Ev4GUGwPUk4uXSIr2lS9auWXzpjW1IucqiLfOYrjls1-Yjz92c-AulR_PIFjewQe93sDQ57eXXvjRZ0AIr4sBkUplUKNUrvylG4mZGsDp5M0J9c2mkxtZriJHI3NHvCP_RX2Z_SUVvIMHJPKqUNqfhISqU8/s830/my%20design.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="830" data-original-width="533" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx0QpKQryPM2EG7UqrqDTHrySpUh45anX2Ev4GUGwPUk4uXSIr2lS9auWXzpjW1IucqiLfOYrjls1-Yjz92c-AulR_PIFjewQe93sDQ57eXXvjRZ0AIr4sBkUplUKNUrvylG4mZGsDp5M0J9c2mkxtZriJHI3NHvCP_RX2Z_SUVvIMHJPKqUNqfhISqU8/s320/my%20design.png" width="205" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small parts organizer cabinet<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">There are a bunch of neat cabinet designs out there for these and other brand organizers. The organizers I'm using had the lowest $/volume ratio I could find, and I think this cabinet will take less time to build than one based on
dados. The panels are 3/4 plywood, glued and pocket-hole-screwed. The rails are 1.5x1.5x1/16" aluminum angle, which I can source locally from a place in orlando for cheap, and they may even cut them for me, though I could cut them with my miter saw or chop saw if I really had to. No need for wheels, part of the point of the organizers is that I can pull out the one I need and take it to wherever I'm working. I haven't built the cabinets yet because time and money, and a (functional) tablesaw would be nicer than a circular saw for cutting the panels. The organizers are just stacked at the moment. I also organized medium-sized parts, like arduinos, in storage bins:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiitonmx_5yJ0YiCkVys_s_yZT0-gEkVd5BTKDqFhUjcdy2Swa17dCZ5SeDD9iakZgCXomq4yGguVGWbfhNk4oa0LhyJcD_OuZqVUAZ4BCUG4GbCT-59RCqNgAy6NRY142jNRmxK2-xMHmR5wrwq-T1OFzyh0jgZIohRyj9Hu4vrJzkb_JtuG3oVa01Us/s4608/IMG_20231119_160637005.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiitonmx_5yJ0YiCkVys_s_yZT0-gEkVd5BTKDqFhUjcdy2Swa17dCZ5SeDD9iakZgCXomq4yGguVGWbfhNk4oa0LhyJcD_OuZqVUAZ4BCUG4GbCT-59RCqNgAy6NRY142jNRmxK2-xMHmR5wrwq-T1OFzyh0jgZIohRyj9Hu4vrJzkb_JtuG3oVa01Us/w400-h300/IMG_20231119_160637005.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Organized</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Oh, and as shown above, I moved the printers out of the garage into a spare bedroom-turned-hobby-room. <br /></p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Rocket Garden</h2><div style="text-align: left;">I 3D printed a rocket garden for my desk at work. </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyau5-lN5mv26lX5qF0KYFqLNxyENsHhyphenhyphenc-uci0Hf0lPQ175-myYOnYLjVLVsjv8uug8nZw-wM4nQw_iUQVgQLPs5T5QPzeHKnate_-vSskTScqv0fEtPDGpimFyxDtYsF1CijsAIeXwSi280AQNJyRo6gxBn2t1qtCLV1m_lUgOeFl1jYQK87UOg-i30/s4596/original_2af8b598-c25d-4b1b-8b49-4d664f799214_IMG_20230809_081149689.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2916" data-original-width="4596" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyau5-lN5mv26lX5qF0KYFqLNxyENsHhyphenhyphenc-uci0Hf0lPQ175-myYOnYLjVLVsjv8uug8nZw-wM4nQw_iUQVgQLPs5T5QPzeHKnate_-vSskTScqv0fEtPDGpimFyxDtYsF1CijsAIeXwSi280AQNJyRo6gxBn2t1qtCLV1m_lUgOeFl1jYQK87UOg-i30/w400-h254/original_2af8b598-c25d-4b1b-8b49-4d664f799214_IMG_20230809_081149689.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rockets!</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">All documents are digital now, so I decided to fill up the drab cubical real estate with these. Kind of an old pic, there are more now, and along with a 1/30th scale Apollo lander with astronauts and a rover off to the right. I'm working on a mercury-redstone and the JWST now. I found all of these files for free on the internet, though I occasionally fix things I don't like about them.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><h2 style="text-align: left;">Wanhao i3</h2><div style="text-align: left;">My ancient shitty, yet super upgraded, wanhao i3 just passed the 25km of filament printed mark! It works juuusssssttttttt
well enough to kill my motivation to finish CubeXY. That's also why I
haven't bought a new printer, cause that'll just kill my motivation
more. Instead, I spend more money on the i3 because that makes sense (/s). I replaced the glass bed+PEI sheet with a magnetic build plate, which is night-and-day easier to use and was worth every penny.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThAxNrVv-jxrPTckBh9dnMgnVZc9YCLIOnOGTfWSbXl8zmNd1sWOV-AOoVpUMCSF0DLubvQWpp2rXHIFlYiN44_vQeoxaO7P6eUE45hSS1mFsz2gVa_eZ0gNJ4V396Dbey_JfJcR-hURCat2PFLcNBf-nzk8xH1pj8u8B2zrhbnOTx6iuIPO_2cmXLIM/s4608/IMG_20231119_160644095_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThAxNrVv-jxrPTckBh9dnMgnVZc9YCLIOnOGTfWSbXl8zmNd1sWOV-AOoVpUMCSF0DLubvQWpp2rXHIFlYiN44_vQeoxaO7P6eUE45hSS1mFsz2gVa_eZ0gNJ4V396Dbey_JfJcR-hURCat2PFLcNBf-nzk8xH1pj8u8B2zrhbnOTx6iuIPO_2cmXLIM/s320/IMG_20231119_160644095_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New build plate<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> </div><div style="text-align: left;">You can see the knob from a new Y-axis belt tensioner in the above pic, too. The old printed support structure crumbled, so I switch it to back-braced. The braces are now out of the way, though they are not quite as stiff.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-02vGeQXaOpgU7WWnyYRRn2ywDJLoyq6Z4lEBK9lunopvxKUsCiYcUudFE-WxlIOcM8z7xIP6M_b0G44-0pZFqmc4le9akJS2NaE1BNbMj_ezlp7FEliFiC9bBnc9u6lY4Zly8hHh5jHYFGFqLmcBzubcn0FI5FHdbn5rO5hcVrJi9iy-ifYmMtc7oU/s4608/IMG_20231119_160705541_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-02vGeQXaOpgU7WWnyYRRn2ywDJLoyq6Z4lEBK9lunopvxKUsCiYcUudFE-WxlIOcM8z7xIP6M_b0G44-0pZFqmc4le9akJS2NaE1BNbMj_ezlp7FEliFiC9bBnc9u6lY4Zly8hHh5jHYFGFqLmcBzubcn0FI5FHdbn5rO5hcVrJi9iy-ifYmMtc7oU/s320/IMG_20231119_160705541_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New braces<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>I printed a bunch of random things over the past year, like this <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/524410-dragonfly-mechanical-sculpture-fully-3dp">mechanical dragonfly</a>:<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc37ajOCpOThoXrs6VSumKNNCCZSfA4qDcWnndqq3JM9uuMSWpwm3k2jwEh9GDKIWxH5uQDjONJxqcyvvUJddHeWi7zp2Y65PQuFd-JTsu4HZIVnKmg5UZ6WG0PCene8X7o64yphSIvxebtcp57JbsH5uFx5MPFXQ-ZxQ4QcWjirrzwY9l_CI4ol96mYw/s1153/IMG_20230717_094455723.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1016" data-original-width="1153" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc37ajOCpOThoXrs6VSumKNNCCZSfA4qDcWnndqq3JM9uuMSWpwm3k2jwEh9GDKIWxH5uQDjONJxqcyvvUJddHeWi7zp2Y65PQuFd-JTsu4HZIVnKmg5UZ6WG0PCene8X7o64yphSIvxebtcp57JbsH5uFx5MPFXQ-ZxQ4QcWjirrzwY9l_CI4ol96mYw/s320/IMG_20230717_094455723.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>For the wings, I printed one layer of clear PETG on a textured build plate, then used atomic filament bronze PETG for the rest. I think they came out decently realistic. I think the oof stones might be my favorite:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7zS7DH74PrLdAaqrmVgFtsOjnmY7IOlgDH3ruuU-zRQl_Lu-jEdDwvNDF0n7q0XGJPca6GhnxCmUxc_YvgkQ6N9mMQtQlVfH785ihZt-D21SxPVxmMzvTvApoiNYZQrUKW-aBG2lHvxS0MqsMYn5N-4LjT0wIQZNFJI3XMWwqTgyOxHx9HOIgy3BneM/s4608/IMG_20221227_140156220_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7zS7DH74PrLdAaqrmVgFtsOjnmY7IOlgDH3ruuU-zRQl_Lu-jEdDwvNDF0n7q0XGJPca6GhnxCmUxc_YvgkQ6N9mMQtQlVfH785ihZt-D21SxPVxmMzvTvApoiNYZQrUKW-aBG2lHvxS0MqsMYn5N-4LjT0wIQZNFJI3XMWwqTgyOxHx9HOIgy3BneM/w400-h300/IMG_20221227_140156220_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Printed with Atomic Filament Marble PETG<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><h2 style="text-align: left;">Future plans:</h2><p><a href="https://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/search/label/table%20saw">Table saw</a>: Come December, it'll be the 2 year anniversary of having a disassembled 113 table saw in my garage. I bought a second one recently for spare parts and it has a much nicer fence than the original. I should be able to make one nice saw from all that, and sell the left overs. I <i>will</i> finish it. All the pics and the blog entries on this have turned out to be super helpful since I don't remember what goes where.<br /></p><p><a href="https://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/search/label/woodworking">Workbench</a>: 3-year anniversary, and I don't have all of the tools that were going to go in this anymore, so it needs some re-design... 😅 I'll definitely finish this. Need a working table saw first. </p><p><a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/search/label/Cubexy">CubeXY</a> 3D printer: over 4 years (RIP). I still have all of the parts, just never got around to assembling it. But I will finish it, and it <strike>might</strike> will be awesome. </p><p><a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2021/07/house-work.html">H1 rocket engine turbine display case</a>: Now that I finally have a mill, I can cut the parts for a stand for this. Need to de-rust it first.<br /></p><p><a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/search/label/homelab">Homelab</a>: I have access to compute clusters at work, so I don't have plans to build a new homelab <a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/search/label/cluster">cluster</a>. I have (very) slowly been accumulating parts to build a dual AMD EPYC machine, which, if my calculations were correct all those years ago, it should be nearly as fast as my entire cluster was. I still have the old head node, not exactly sure what I'm going to do with it yet, maybe turn it in to a NAS since it has a bunch of drive bays. I want to set up some self-hosted services. </p><p><br /></p><p>That's all for now.<br /></p>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-25851157786807767672022-07-16T17:13:00.010-04:002023-11-19T13:36:34.321-05:00Fixing House Wifi<p> I finally got around to replacing the crappy mesh wifi system with a "real" wifi network. This was my first time running and terminating ethernet cables. I bought some tools to practice with: klein tools cutter, stripper, and male pass-thru crimper, a monoprice impact punch-down tool, and a cable tester. I made a short patch cable for practice, and it came out good on the first try.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHNo-PH8rm-BuRsX4JNFjOI-yK8vckpU3NfO3M07M5717q2o7Q2hmw7ZFWpYOFi6teQKzb8AsxMbDyHOQxPlC2JjNyUZxghdikixCroXK3W5Ls0KEHu4KFCyyNq7p90H6_D__At7yO7HUjxieDhRP72--eewP80paiR2UbYm46zsFQclW2n3qKk71/s4608/IMG_20220716_123914051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHNo-PH8rm-BuRsX4JNFjOI-yK8vckpU3NfO3M07M5717q2o7Q2hmw7ZFWpYOFi6teQKzb8AsxMbDyHOQxPlC2JjNyUZxghdikixCroXK3W5Ls0KEHu4KFCyyNq7p90H6_D__At7yO7HUjxieDhRP72--eewP80paiR2UbYm46zsFQclW2n3qKk71/s320/IMG_20220716_123914051.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p>Making patch cables is silly since 2 good quality connectors cost more than a pre-made patch cable, so I bought the others I'll need. I bought a partial spool of CAT6 cable off craigslist a year or so ago, and about 50ft of smurf tube conduit from a friend. I wanted to do some future proofing with this upgrade, so I bought Wifi-6 hardware. It took me awhile to figure out exactly what I wanted. I ended up going with a TP-Link AX1800 router because it was cheap and powerful enough to cover half of the house. The wireless access point choice for the other half of the house was a little trickier. I bought a 48 port gigabit POE switch for a steal off reddit last year because I had big plans to wire the whole house with ethernet drops and cameras. Since this is my first post about it, clearly that never happened, but I still plan on slowly adding drops, cameras, etc. That switch is POE standard 802.3af, which is limited to 15W per device. Many of the newer (Wifi-6) WAPs are 802.3at, which has a 30W limit, so if I want to use this switch, which I do, then I can't use 802.3at WAPs. That narrowed the selection substantially, and I ended up going with a Ubiquiti U6-Lite. However, since I only have one POE device at the moment, running the switch would be a waste of electricity, so I bought a POE injector to go with the U6-Lite. Eventually, when I have more devices and ethernet drops, I'll switch to the switch. I did some testing with a super long ethernet cable to figure out the best place for the WAP. Once I had that figured out, it was time to run ethernet there. I wanted to relocate the modem and router to one of the attics, where I plan to have a small rack eventually. That's not the same attic as the one above where the WAP was going, so this ethernet run was kind of a pain. I used cable clips in the attic above where the WAP was going since I wasn't planning to run anymore cables up there anytime soon. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxHj6StfHdMUY0tjSlwWIv_XZ4F7-N993Q6MHOOw9fi_svblEvN_qzHw98X_mhSv95glVFxw37V5WbN5EXKaM3r0srbNvHGQAKS3VYJXkB8P_47IL1viF53YSWzRLP2PYjMiJbj39syyHPr1GdcLfEONnAUKQ67TPb8577M6_CpqDKrN0WPc4sY_6J/s4608/IMG_20220716_083022484.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxHj6StfHdMUY0tjSlwWIv_XZ4F7-N993Q6MHOOw9fi_svblEvN_qzHw98X_mhSv95glVFxw37V5WbN5EXKaM3r0srbNvHGQAKS3VYJXkB8P_47IL1viF53YSWzRLP2PYjMiJbj39syyHPr1GdcLfEONnAUKQ67TPb8577M6_CpqDKrN0WPc4sY_6J/s320/IMG_20220716_083022484.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green cable is ethernet.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHVp_LhIrXUY_fsqioezMrIUcyfcYmi1Z6I29Bp6uoe-y2zzy4G-yAy8qqHOQ-nKbdyB7o8v3ihaOMhpkeDCMayJHOT24H5Xi6KVvHeqpKl2uTwkM4KNgrGZxT7Upc-aY8n2Iwha6LAY4hF7v-nRIn8dvfUnVmkyAzmbRA_do5GjrMzHWg0VfLi9py/s4608/IMG_20220716_131023018.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHVp_LhIrXUY_fsqioezMrIUcyfcYmi1Z6I29Bp6uoe-y2zzy4G-yAy8qqHOQ-nKbdyB7o8v3ihaOMhpkeDCMayJHOT24H5Xi6KVvHeqpKl2uTwkM4KNgrGZxT7Upc-aY8n2Iwha6LAY4hF7v-nRIn8dvfUnVmkyAzmbRA_do5GjrMzHWg0VfLi9py/s320/IMG_20220716_131023018.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terminated cable.</td></tr></tbody></table>I installed the smurf tube in the attic where the router was moved to because I will eventually have many ethernet cables running through there. <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1-Vbb56FwT-xBddNAT0yACHlneQC-ZxoUVLMFc1XQBMHgWD6kB3aReDrnOP_tdAbX2DEO-yC5z5xv7C4qgXcE4ovxy-4SB4HI6qUqujSbTFCwzbQs_yVkG34wfvoCS7EJHlikLopP4S_jj8Bx0dk2pm4R-XMThlhF-hUddR7srfnodsVGcjr4K7Dm/s4608/IMG_20220716_110057676.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1-Vbb56FwT-xBddNAT0yACHlneQC-ZxoUVLMFc1XQBMHgWD6kB3aReDrnOP_tdAbX2DEO-yC5z5xv7C4qgXcE4ovxy-4SB4HI6qUqujSbTFCwzbQs_yVkG34wfvoCS7EJHlikLopP4S_jj8Bx0dk2pm4R-XMThlhF-hUddR7srfnodsVGcjr4K7Dm/s320/IMG_20220716_110057676.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCGUgHi7mkj_iEzDhTrbLugNf3paDQDlVYVFLPyAbN-O_25B4FKp39ROP95g5sFe_foZxpMHKwJ13SvKvcz_2KE40sDBsSyWIIW3KY_SqLDj6ub7udX5iQlWGQvQ6NKt0_hA7irZSwxPn9FZDMnk7W6WKYlb-oJOVohSzD9Ng6yaShgSHvYwNO6kpE/s4608/IMG_20220716_113010712.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCGUgHi7mkj_iEzDhTrbLugNf3paDQDlVYVFLPyAbN-O_25B4FKp39ROP95g5sFe_foZxpMHKwJ13SvKvcz_2KE40sDBsSyWIIW3KY_SqLDj6ub7udX5iQlWGQvQ6NKt0_hA7irZSwxPn9FZDMnk7W6WKYlb-oJOVohSzD9Ng6yaShgSHvYwNO6kpE/s320/IMG_20220716_113010712.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Other end of the WAP cable.</td></tr></tbody></table> I pulled string through the conduit with the cable to make adding cables in the future easy. I'm going to terminate all of the ethernet ends with punch-down keystone jacks. Once I get a rack, I'll get a patch panel and mount all of the keystone jacks.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9DOtEwFASpbI2zKQ8bhkQ5KljXsbcamcpqJjElDjbS8RVx96B90gDj00DbgYsRCiiI7Mkl0qWyqL0mC0WmL4yZSvjxT7uKGdvLDDf_1derKRslIK4K8CxPPxbMatq9yp4aUqtKsaIa-U31lduw7VNRwHZa7MNsR7OB5m7812pE79Tf7HDws3XCse/s4608/IMG_20220716_132414593.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9DOtEwFASpbI2zKQ8bhkQ5KljXsbcamcpqJjElDjbS8RVx96B90gDj00DbgYsRCiiI7Mkl0qWyqL0mC0WmL4yZSvjxT7uKGdvLDDf_1derKRslIK4K8CxPPxbMatq9yp4aUqtKsaIa-U31lduw7VNRwHZa7MNsR7OB5m7812pE79Tf7HDws3XCse/s320/IMG_20220716_132414593.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tested good!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSiGiS8uhvvdsKGLuaijuGRaeKELBAcBK042tJb1CjXcm0eH-f0XURcM6ZiMWeHQX7IYgyddYh8Lnu9Pfg8l8oD4OwiyBoB5b0rJ8IH7GVyciOcIZVnb0FgJ884Vy9umoxH1dA15SqIZ_8_DLalCSZsaQKyhkJGKOP5lowLOYJXIeSij7JjMflbTac/s4608/IMG_20220716_162100907.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSiGiS8uhvvdsKGLuaijuGRaeKELBAcBK042tJb1CjXcm0eH-f0XURcM6ZiMWeHQX7IYgyddYh8Lnu9Pfg8l8oD4OwiyBoB5b0rJ8IH7GVyciOcIZVnb0FgJ884Vy9umoxH1dA15SqIZ_8_DLalCSZsaQKyhkJGKOP5lowLOYJXIeSij7JjMflbTac/s320/IMG_20220716_162100907.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue = working</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Finally, I had to setup the router and WAP. The router has an easy-to-use web interface. The WAP requires installing Ubiquiti's UniFi Network application on your phone or computer. This picks up a hidden network broadcast by the WAP(s), which then allows you to configure it. I set the WAP SSID and password to be the same as the router's. </div><div><br /></div><div>Then I walked around with my phone running internet ping and speed tests. Both ping and speed are MUCH better with the new router and 1 WAP than with the mesh wifi system, which had 1 router and 4 satellites. I can actually max out my internet download speed over wifi now. </div><div><br /></div><div>The next step is to run ethernet drops to the office, which is right below the attic that the router is now in. Then run ethernet drops to other parts of the house and hook up the big switch. Then get a rack and make it all look nice. </div><div> </div><div>Update: ran two drops to office, then stopped. Haven't hooked up the switch yet since there are enough ports in my router. <br /></div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-67058347502670914532022-06-17T16:32:00.002-04:002022-06-17T16:34:09.644-04:00Whirlpool Duet Dryer Repair<p>Our Whirlpool Duet Dryer stopped working. Lights would light up, but pressing the start button would cause a "F01" error code. Turns out the dryer comes with a troubleshooting manual, which was in a pocket attached to the inside of the lower front panel. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUq389b1YPRH05fSXm3newTNdIyeP01UPi_iTKQIAaSyouTmtEFbTmkLp9pgEoMCQ9gmLrGBmm1crzNfKV0CMd9XJnYyczN0iTZSIBxqAkL9BcAUXsoPrzTB2i5fVQFOvKbncM2VgpBtd85SZn7grE376cJjCEbpRubc6zDYHw-GUpiBoJ3EXJ-vk/s4608/IMG_20220611_152404178.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUq389b1YPRH05fSXm3newTNdIyeP01UPi_iTKQIAaSyouTmtEFbTmkLp9pgEoMCQ9gmLrGBmm1crzNfKV0CMd9XJnYyczN0iTZSIBxqAkL9BcAUXsoPrzTB2i5fVQFOvKbncM2VgpBtd85SZn7grE376cJjCEbpRubc6zDYHw-GUpiBoJ3EXJ-vk/w320-h240/IMG_20220611_152404178.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very thorough</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The recommendation for the F01 error code was replacing the main board, which is expensive. I followed some of the other troubleshooting steps, particularly for the motor, since that wasn't starting. The control board is accessible by removing 3 screws in the back and sliding the top of the dryer towards to back and off.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9sV4Q8rYFdZ1io-KsK53Gsj7YyQq3J6CONqpOY6OTA3AyLiPaLAXyYzytlB-Xp7PZI-FOrk2EmDJMdBBjgxxIg2mPSOSj1kv0fRkHi9xjkm9Sk-7tqVJh1DSOBQJr6STDg_Fzdrj-0vwsIqAeqSkiDD5IuonC-p0sVw9_eDMnG7cmUZ1szAW7Fyj9/s4608/IMG_20220605_175128320.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9sV4Q8rYFdZ1io-KsK53Gsj7YyQq3J6CONqpOY6OTA3AyLiPaLAXyYzytlB-Xp7PZI-FOrk2EmDJMdBBjgxxIg2mPSOSj1kv0fRkHi9xjkm9Sk-7tqVJh1DSOBQJr6STDg_Fzdrj-0vwsIqAeqSkiDD5IuonC-p0sVw9_eDMnG7cmUZ1szAW7Fyj9/s320/IMG_20220605_175128320.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main control board. I took pictures of all of the <br />cables before disassembling.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>One step had me measure the resistance across two pins on the main board, which came out to ~2 Ohms, meaning they were shorted. The recommendation was then to replace the main board. Using the circuit board and the circuit diagram, I figured out that that was measuring across the motor power relay. The relay also smelled like magic smoke. Ah ha! Relays have a limited life span, and after some googling, I found out that this relay often dies in these dryers: <a href="https://youtu.be/hNPke3hxZlA" target="_blank">youtube link</a>. <div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmp0VbvNpFG6Rw6G27aoNLDTocbv_J2hz8pecx8mz14v7DUZfNKmlg7R6Sb7lnt8Z82szKNXFHIIZ34Z6_oYqf8XqvOjmYpZ33xVqiXYqsIuSHLJZQAO7qomLtzcWReRnWGGeJAMcl3ebKSNKZTF2tHJo5u41xXTV6dOpHEYOYj3Jm2hsvu-J_AKZe/s4608/IMG_20220605_175148362_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmp0VbvNpFG6Rw6G27aoNLDTocbv_J2hz8pecx8mz14v7DUZfNKmlg7R6Sb7lnt8Z82szKNXFHIIZ34Z6_oYqf8XqvOjmYpZ33xVqiXYqsIuSHLJZQAO7qomLtzcWReRnWGGeJAMcl3ebKSNKZTF2tHJo5u41xXTV6dOpHEYOYj3Jm2hsvu-J_AKZe/s320/IMG_20220605_175148362_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This relay smelled toasty.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-2u-HCD6ZCYxUgmlvkaYip8odY61xBbOaoy7d_KEp_jg5y64v8vYey4VuIMaVLjykeOxNguhFDDtgv0WmcGuxnmgj4EoY1EvFMVu2NqvXO23pbl6uiJub-FXkXiYXPyYt5U1McBtPidpSq7N02VZxUiXvU3EqunWIrsSgzDRZxkpx84IwSMtO6Qi/s4608/IMG_20220611_152409234.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-2u-HCD6ZCYxUgmlvkaYip8odY61xBbOaoy7d_KEp_jg5y64v8vYey4VuIMaVLjykeOxNguhFDDtgv0WmcGuxnmgj4EoY1EvFMVu2NqvXO23pbl6uiJub-FXkXiYXPyYt5U1McBtPidpSq7N02VZxUiXvU3EqunWIrsSgzDRZxkpx84IwSMtO6Qi/s320/IMG_20220611_152409234.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Control board was held in with one screw and <br />had tabs that slid out of slots in the sheet metal.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEnrThTfhvbiucJ2OUhpKdcPcJs342L29ZdvMSXzeCR9mUz_jq9YpFr8ZidWblBGVmLhKJ3FotPzx0j38AJLa91ivxUVAkRynY9ia9ajZsflSovsT7d6SlVGmHYjqIbCWQhgm9CHkVhEnfVmV5rDNVUQCsVhY_ayZPorgUKk1sbHt3_VUIp4a2pmOe/s4435/IMG_20220611_152416865.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2320" data-original-width="4435" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEnrThTfhvbiucJ2OUhpKdcPcJs342L29ZdvMSXzeCR9mUz_jq9YpFr8ZidWblBGVmLhKJ3FotPzx0j38AJLa91ivxUVAkRynY9ia9ajZsflSovsT7d6SlVGmHYjqIbCWQhgm9CHkVhEnfVmV5rDNVUQCsVhY_ayZPorgUKk1sbHt3_VUIp4a2pmOe/w400-h209/IMG_20220611_152416865.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I used popsicle sticks to push back the 6 plastic tabs holding the control<br /> board into the plastic carrier, which then allowed me to pull the board out. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaeRKvVWelecjUENpSZYc-XiYWEfN9hz3cglMgh4NR6q_jXCFI43wVig-i7Rh-IrYfs9HnCE2zuEuF7Jqi2FcfdCSJ_04jBoMX1P8jxSBmjcy36EVPV7JiXiUmFE9C6l-xLtU0SG2fwVtkz_pX0RjB7b8jA8wHm1Qcl0_HO5MTfFaW8DPOzOs2uEQs/s4608/IMG_20220611_152426672.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaeRKvVWelecjUENpSZYc-XiYWEfN9hz3cglMgh4NR6q_jXCFI43wVig-i7Rh-IrYfs9HnCE2zuEuF7Jqi2FcfdCSJ_04jBoMX1P8jxSBmjcy36EVPV7JiXiUmFE9C6l-xLtU0SG2fwVtkz_pX0RjB7b8jA8wHm1Qcl0_HO5MTfFaW8DPOzOs2uEQs/s320/IMG_20220611_152426672.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yup, motor relay let out the magic smoke...</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>This dryer has an AC power relay, and I'm guessing it has logic to not close the power relay if it detects a short elsewhere, which was likely why the (DC) controls seemed to be working, but the motor and heater were not. Anyways, the motor relay is a strange package, so I had to find an exact replacement: Omron G8P-1A4P 12VDC 30A 250V. Unfortunately, they don't make them anymore, but there seems to be ample stock on eBay and Amazon, along with some non-Omron substitutes. When replacing relays, make sure to get the correct coil voltage (the 12VDC) and at least the stated power ratings (30A, 250V). If I hadn't been able to find this relay in this package, I would have bought one with the same specs and used wires to solder to the correct pads.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lV4XANKMzaf5wK0rZE_Ac1v2Vbm0IRaSVIy9QKaoCM7qrAj1UtASEK5ltL8o49zq1AeVCV4eHZxt--pma6yhiAV7FpyNZyAj05wcvBnGL-TvzajcbrDRfMgCtuX5f6uAuXD1p_Ex-E2VfsQYYcpvbhO7-Hax37JocYxX9E538WyKRvBmOWl7woPf/s4608/IMG_20220617_122906512.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lV4XANKMzaf5wK0rZE_Ac1v2Vbm0IRaSVIy9QKaoCM7qrAj1UtASEK5ltL8o49zq1AeVCV4eHZxt--pma6yhiAV7FpyNZyAj05wcvBnGL-TvzajcbrDRfMgCtuX5f6uAuXD1p_Ex-E2VfsQYYcpvbhO7-Hax37JocYxX9E538WyKRvBmOWl7woPf/s320/IMG_20220617_122906512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Luckily this relay is through-hole, so removing it was easy using a solder sucker. Unfortunately, the death-throes of the old relay burnt one of the pads. I could still sort of solder to it, but the connection to the trace was poor, so I added a wire to take some of the current. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCqBxrfpl9QybkLH2D6b8N-HOJNpptkP4XHfXAcWBB28f-cWsNtK7iInBJXyR7MiUvD3EM9s_VpOyAiTpAXvZbrczPUxZ3GZa-E7lmY79aVY7-iDPppBvqWO4PRMKNqRW-6b6rDDeuPuqzGS40oZHeQzz7qqIBfNGmzy0qXMBJpRSDM8LPfjWZUTYV/s4608/IMG_20220617_125543685_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCqBxrfpl9QybkLH2D6b8N-HOJNpptkP4XHfXAcWBB28f-cWsNtK7iInBJXyR7MiUvD3EM9s_VpOyAiTpAXvZbrczPUxZ3GZa-E7lmY79aVY7-iDPppBvqWO4PRMKNqRW-6b6rDDeuPuqzGS40oZHeQzz7qqIBfNGmzy0qXMBJpRSDM8LPfjWZUTYV/s320/IMG_20220617_125543685_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT48K5N1ZeRVXtfQGpjUBc0xCcB13GmUSPdWfocRUoHWAPMrO4HQoWPB7AOPYSozENtN22APNvMhZQXabp9vSZlllSBzByX0cxwWgb2Ppy5kL_UKLSaxMy0Z3lqTZwnydN_AYTa7wPu4XINilwuKk2vSS22y-8daPaR5oSVDEmOYAyaZzAZY09UrTP/s4608/IMG_20220617_125551342.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT48K5N1ZeRVXtfQGpjUBc0xCcB13GmUSPdWfocRUoHWAPMrO4HQoWPB7AOPYSozENtN22APNvMhZQXabp9vSZlllSBzByX0cxwWgb2Ppy5kL_UKLSaxMy0Z3lqTZwnydN_AYTa7wPu4XINilwuKk2vSS22y-8daPaR5oSVDEmOYAyaZzAZY09UrTP/s320/IMG_20220617_125551342.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Replacement done.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi49aiOXdAcmpTLlA8E5IH3XI2LkB6SxvTu_4SOJYwKjmGjIhrFT2ISscxeXu6r5hD1ToRFUGQwTci3ukCu74ugODMfJbvWiFDMZ-tNzdyqw6xhJrOfpm_46AGMR2REGZhDy-yY7tomhR55fl4Q3bby8SoFOaWP8gfkxFeEFVPUmqehmkjRTOUyp_Ho/s4608/IMG_20220617_130149625.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi49aiOXdAcmpTLlA8E5IH3XI2LkB6SxvTu_4SOJYwKjmGjIhrFT2ISscxeXu6r5hD1ToRFUGQwTci3ukCu74ugODMfJbvWiFDMZ-tNzdyqw6xhJrOfpm_46AGMR2REGZhDy-yY7tomhR55fl4Q3bby8SoFOaWP8gfkxFeEFVPUmqehmkjRTOUyp_Ho/s320/IMG_20220617_130149625.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It lives!!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>I reinstalled the control board, and powered up the dryer for a test: it worked. I took the opportunity to vacuum under and in the dryer while the panels were off, then reinstalled the panels. </div><div><br /></div><div>Total cost was $14, maybe 2 hours total of my time. Replacing the control board would have easily been $400, and I don't want to think about how much a new dryer costs these days. It pays to know how to fix things.<br /><br /></div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-18128387418082228502022-04-18T22:19:00.010-04:002022-04-28T16:07:08.927-04:00Craftsman Table Saw Refurbishment, part3. Rust Removal<p>I've been slowly working on the table saw. I showed most of the disassembly in the last post. I bought snap ring pliers to disassemble the arbor.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1JGI38tU0wTl8QA7p8XsoYp-MJHSth1l9qGiw9Tmyz0JshQG6ZSqSveN1pJov90luuPtapWi6CaP0gZbkZuwH4mvoH5zr09AgEBjlYY28M0kwmVf7eiBZszZb16pG0VhZccyFBwj0LFy7sGMx58vrP4NldKomKcPwo8jsYIOwiTq6UBPwNurdY98/s4608/IMG_20220321_212326801.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1JGI38tU0wTl8QA7p8XsoYp-MJHSth1l9qGiw9Tmyz0JshQG6ZSqSveN1pJov90luuPtapWi6CaP0gZbkZuwH4mvoH5zr09AgEBjlYY28M0kwmVf7eiBZszZb16pG0VhZccyFBwj0LFy7sGMx58vrP4NldKomKcPwo8jsYIOwiTq6UBPwNurdY98/s320/IMG_20220321_212326801.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbS3o_ZGtfsVcWoREz2JbfbSc018jIyqBjrTPNRD700lCKPOp0IOPeOEFwsVu-QzWuLbknh9Y_S1dwpzPwWITBpkepCr45Sphyn53RODt2Y_1uFq51MdVcG7tDgkcuCHtRVWicIsmiY8fL1mkmJyI6kU6a0MItVcg_tpiWko5yvm3C7OHQFpfLXgw7/s4608/IMG_20220321_212343283.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbS3o_ZGtfsVcWoREz2JbfbSc018jIyqBjrTPNRD700lCKPOp0IOPeOEFwsVu-QzWuLbknh9Y_S1dwpzPwWITBpkepCr45Sphyn53RODt2Y_1uFq51MdVcG7tDgkcuCHtRVWicIsmiY8fL1mkmJyI6kU6a0MItVcg_tpiWko5yvm3C7OHQFpfLXgw7/s320/IMG_20220321_212343283.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0j7NP_O2OxFTFiZpJlse6brkAaUbJFslJ1FXBxqEPkuIxP279OGQEYTu8K5t3xzv7gCVR9Ya7koFp0J_eJhuLjxXYRkaHGF3fD5SpNUgnj5VIZEOlzuYCJ2ZzDD6LJocqrf5V5IZFWu6LE-WhwM6jZWBJ2cIb7rWsksOISWosGgpOokDrFoX6vcTb/s4608/IMG_20220321_212349127.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0j7NP_O2OxFTFiZpJlse6brkAaUbJFslJ1FXBxqEPkuIxP279OGQEYTu8K5t3xzv7gCVR9Ya7koFp0J_eJhuLjxXYRkaHGF3fD5SpNUgnj5VIZEOlzuYCJ2ZzDD6LJocqrf5V5IZFWu6LE-WhwM6jZWBJ2cIb7rWsksOISWosGgpOokDrFoX6vcTb/s320/IMG_20220321_212349127.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div>I bought new, good quality bearings (Koyo and Nachi) off ebay for the arbor and motor. I also bought a snap ring kit from harbor freight, and a new woodruff key from Ace. <div><br /><h2 style="text-align: left;">Rust Removal</h2><p>I used evaporust for the small parts. Just soak the parts in it, and it magically strips the rust off. It even gets rust out of small holes and screw threads. I then wash and dry the parts off and immediately coat them in CRC 3-36 rust and corrosion inhibitor. Many people like T-9 Boeshield, but I already had a can of this, and it works great. I put the parts in a small bag, spray the CRC into the bag, and mix the parts around it. This conserves the CRC while making less of a mess than trying to spray the parts outside the bag. Steel parts start rusting again almost immediately after drying, so I made sure to coat them in CRC ASAP. The CRC takes a day or two to "dry". I don't think it fully dries, which makes the coating somewhat self-healing, which is nice. Some of the parts have been coated for over a month now with no signs of rust, so it clearly works well. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBAgICIgjB7KPJBqnh0X9HhIjyXPiUOxYmCrOe6ijvCDttVZ2tC6Kv8WWbFkFjmOln9FdFC9fMJWLw1Gy7qyqMhM2iRbtRBZhScdKqi3cJBNDuiG9075F4x-9KSzCU7smxHQIr9GNqD3s0Zw7MoRJAJL7ZouAAmG2Xera7kj_RpbRvTRG6rwU-9NFD/s4608/IMG_20220315_085527774.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBAgICIgjB7KPJBqnh0X9HhIjyXPiUOxYmCrOe6ijvCDttVZ2tC6Kv8WWbFkFjmOln9FdFC9fMJWLw1Gy7qyqMhM2iRbtRBZhScdKqi3cJBNDuiG9075F4x-9KSzCU7smxHQIr9GNqD3s0Zw7MoRJAJL7ZouAAmG2Xera7kj_RpbRvTRG6rwU-9NFD/s320/IMG_20220315_085527774.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimaAjhxZUqxYsPYrGvnyebw7ZLUF6MVcVxYXLaXApnl2-LhUBish2yqTBU_G9mzd2pKhcSZPDXFVdo1_GYMSoydjCvRVdKn9xnhuTJB0Qnp5D5OJjwgzbgba2qfseWTS5WZXD16F0G6mR74u2vnwc4mos4YsJDKd1BVshJZfP58aUFOUHUY52aP6ly/s4608/IMG_20220313_214047608.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimaAjhxZUqxYsPYrGvnyebw7ZLUF6MVcVxYXLaXApnl2-LhUBish2yqTBU_G9mzd2pKhcSZPDXFVdo1_GYMSoydjCvRVdKn9xnhuTJB0Qnp5D5OJjwgzbgba2qfseWTS5WZXD16F0G6mR74u2vnwc4mos4YsJDKd1BVshJZfP58aUFOUHUY52aP6ly/w300-h400/IMG_20220313_214047608.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No before shot, but these were all rusty pre-evaporust.</td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXYhxpctCtnomNJI0J__wJ6s1dmr8ly1Z2WsEOehFoKc7mAoVMlFyf-yWYstg2iuXcuIGCXxTZEsW87DZnl0BvEfZEByhrk7UxNQGy4a5ErF01KK5joIN9gUGn8MIplZIolsC7hAQXrjcdtCxH36hQGSr2tGJJPNIZwlbztCkMEfkdV7xd_2jKCEr8/s4608/IMG_20220315_085524718.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXYhxpctCtnomNJI0J__wJ6s1dmr8ly1Z2WsEOehFoKc7mAoVMlFyf-yWYstg2iuXcuIGCXxTZEsW87DZnl0BvEfZEByhrk7UxNQGy4a5ErF01KK5joIN9gUGn8MIplZIolsC7hAQXrjcdtCxH36hQGSr2tGJJPNIZwlbztCkMEfkdV7xd_2jKCEr8/w300-h400/IMG_20220315_085524718.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coated parts drying on wax paper. New parts to coat in bag.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Evaporust is expensive, ~$30/gallon. That's too expensive to buy enough to immerse large parts in, like the wings. The bottle says you can soak papertowels in evaporust, wrap them around your part, then wrap all that in plastic wrap. I tried this, and it was a mess:<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxRYTROScs-Evjy46WZyIiVL1y1GLHZcyN_Psnq4d20KzpdKo4baUBIWkBAWacrKWgyD_rUsMh-sF36Bfr-OlueM3nH834RprLIcyAjNbVeWNSS7V9I9YETngSmpk4IUpKoEu9R63D9pCbHjGrRUcxNbVgkENek76ewrTYT8-4CC5qlSiW_38CpBy/s4608/IMG_20220315_121834841.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxRYTROScs-Evjy46WZyIiVL1y1GLHZcyN_Psnq4d20KzpdKo4baUBIWkBAWacrKWgyD_rUsMh-sF36Bfr-OlueM3nH834RprLIcyAjNbVeWNSS7V9I9YETngSmpk4IUpKoEu9R63D9pCbHjGrRUcxNbVgkENek76ewrTYT8-4CC5qlSiW_38CpBy/w400-h300/IMG_20220315_121834841.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks simple, but a pain in the ass in reality.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaUs3Eu0bblGWSOclyLvHzi9qn6jHWiyuQfBECjD8wepnPZgM0YsQ7qziJLfmdDcHqJ2XehIMXm7rpd8zpEx5ELIrKfbIR1H-BTMDRXHkp7BKE41ZKyarVulop8MMKMFRlFUYXNHdpRvCozeCwxrdrIKuwl6DQWABErqCgnwq7EG4BGUbaBYESOZA8/s4608/IMG_20220315_203731198_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaUs3Eu0bblGWSOclyLvHzi9qn6jHWiyuQfBECjD8wepnPZgM0YsQ7qziJLfmdDcHqJ2XehIMXm7rpd8zpEx5ELIrKfbIR1H-BTMDRXHkp7BKE41ZKyarVulop8MMKMFRlFUYXNHdpRvCozeCwxrdrIKuwl6DQWABErqCgnwq7EG4BGUbaBYESOZA8/w400-h300/IMG_20220315_203731198_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gross</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Yeah...I wasn't happy with the results. Made a mess of icky paper towels, and didn't do a good job getting the rust off. I don't recommend that technique. Time for a manual method: wire wheel, scotchbright pads, and WD-40. This took multiple hours per wing and was a huge pain, but I was able to get most of the rust off. I then wiped them down with mineral spirits to get the WD-40 off, followed by a coat of CRC. They weren't perfect: still some black staining on top surface, which I don't think I could get off without sandblasting or sanding.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh294Z4vYEyxgplHjXB_boN-L_eyudf0n0Il6aFr2yNK4JnQrvJ4EBTyO1FsYJRcG_-2QKtJ6zXb0SdzFuJ5X1_0PjVwYohhB2L48Q6eIHTHykD-XYRzqojNwJFVYeAyeXRr5qL0qhJfD_FyqDucdmUDng1_dpG70g3Ln1P889P4MErPHgxrmYijA5R/s4608/IMG_20220327_162349603_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh294Z4vYEyxgplHjXB_boN-L_eyudf0n0Il6aFr2yNK4JnQrvJ4EBTyO1FsYJRcG_-2QKtJ6zXb0SdzFuJ5X1_0PjVwYohhB2L48Q6eIHTHykD-XYRzqojNwJFVYeAyeXRr5qL0qhJfD_FyqDucdmUDng1_dpG70g3Ln1P889P4MErPHgxrmYijA5R/s320/IMG_20220327_162349603_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPEkSIyWr9dpgoJ0rThho2BfFUc3gV6Re9hViCgkOk2rsC4f50b8ZsGAq1M1rCKRTI_-sIboo7v_1sUxcqaotN9hqKh3ZaJd03gp0ZeKE1J6MDDV5OP5ThyjHiwl8U0TYenTofiVg7DYk_9w8sT8zWH5IzkexaOJlEOkSCozdTInvfetz8B46LpOjk/s4608/IMG_20220327_162402056_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPEkSIyWr9dpgoJ0rThho2BfFUc3gV6Re9hViCgkOk2rsC4f50b8ZsGAq1M1rCKRTI_-sIboo7v_1sUxcqaotN9hqKh3ZaJd03gp0ZeKE1J6MDDV5OP5ThyjHiwl8U0TYenTofiVg7DYk_9w8sT8zWH5IzkexaOJlEOkSCozdTInvfetz8B46LpOjk/w400-h300/IMG_20220327_162402056_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>It was around this point that I realized I needed a better way to remove rust from intricate, large parts. I'd heard of electrolytic rust removal before, but I hadn't tried it until now. I used a part from an old rusty hand plane that I found under the old garage cabinets I tore out as a test piece. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCBBw45jjlXgLLaSUCauK3VpiKqpp6B_8qT4d-WvWd3mS1hA_PICktJaDM9KwYRWJzTFAUdgmgRoM6aC5lETwmdVs3iNyRfNN8XIPHrI3Ev9vp0FUgagdJuDkVfC3SEE5GTGSNpeOmmholjsI5N7vGC_6ZhMWFHFc_g66v1D1kKMV77mQf5Q6SElrT/s4608/IMG_20220413_074607345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCBBw45jjlXgLLaSUCauK3VpiKqpp6B_8qT4d-WvWd3mS1hA_PICktJaDM9KwYRWJzTFAUdgmgRoM6aC5lETwmdVs3iNyRfNN8XIPHrI3Ev9vp0FUgagdJuDkVfC3SEE5GTGSNpeOmmholjsI5N7vGC_6ZhMWFHFc_g66v1D1kKMV77mQf5Q6SElrT/s320/IMG_20220413_074607345.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I sanded/filed the rust off of a patch of it and wrapped a piece of copper wire around it. A current controlled power supply supplies DC electricity for the electrolysis. The part to derust is the cathode. I used an old tin (tin coated steel) can as a sacrificial anode. The positive lead of the power supply is connected to the anode and the negative lead to the cathode (part to derust). The cathode and anode are submersed in a 5 gallon bucket full of water + baking soda. I made sure not to submerse my power supply leads so they wouldn't corrode. The baking soda splits into ions and acts as the electrolyte. The rust on the cathode is reduced (removed) and pulled into the solution, while the anode is oxidized (rusted if steel), which is why I called the anode "sacrificial". The electricity also splits the water: hydrogen gas is produced on the cathode, and oxygen gas on the anode, so you know it's working when you see gas bubbles forming. I set the voltage max to 24V and turned up the current to a max of about 2A. I added baking soda while stirring with a wood stick until the current stopped climbing. I then let it sit for ~12 hours.</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaa-oNV8iBE-WyBh0IIrgOKPanMYMp52hBly8qB6Y7dGyUDoRoanHlMh2byQLBPYQI3sHeb9tmNOYw4CVdtkQP8L8q6N7ckpkHgFI0eMix4lq_9Om-47JgETANPTdyaLRFt9x2i1ZM8J23AtvPTN0BDXDQVHismMoZafAiYQa-ddl8QDJZE4IwSsJf/s4608/IMG_20220412_184250249.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaa-oNV8iBE-WyBh0IIrgOKPanMYMp52hBly8qB6Y7dGyUDoRoanHlMh2byQLBPYQI3sHeb9tmNOYw4CVdtkQP8L8q6N7ckpkHgFI0eMix4lq_9Om-47JgETANPTdyaLRFt9x2i1ZM8J23AtvPTN0BDXDQVHismMoZafAiYQa-ddl8QDJZE4IwSsJf/s320/IMG_20220412_184250249.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The water got a lot grosser</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhhFln3uRnuqI6K0LMhSFoaAsRxzmXbspgjK9LnAoFmsV4n3Zhy-70drl0YH0rH2Gpbid26v5jedAbNlZNgJx9oil6QxABKw4vckzS40paL4xLbMdpt4t0YPooqRNNHX-JQblFmAhUcRVOjsdrnwCfF57tkiDEn0S_F7npSH_l_Ivqe5i1yn2TcOG/s4608/IMG_20220413_074612642.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhhFln3uRnuqI6K0LMhSFoaAsRxzmXbspgjK9LnAoFmsV4n3Zhy-70drl0YH0rH2Gpbid26v5jedAbNlZNgJx9oil6QxABKw4vckzS40paL4xLbMdpt4t0YPooqRNNHX-JQblFmAhUcRVOjsdrnwCfF57tkiDEn0S_F7npSH_l_Ivqe5i1yn2TcOG/s320/IMG_20220413_074612642.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No more rust!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>It worked great at removing the rust from the part. I rinsed the part off and then coated in CRC. The can anode was almost rusted-through, though. I decided to try this on a larger part, this time the trunnion. Because this part was larger, I used two flattened cans as anodes, one on either side, which helps distribute the electric field more evenly, and thus remove rust more evenly. I also flipped it over about half way. The current got up to 5A this time due to the larger surface areas of the cathode and anodes, which was the max of the power supply. Many people use high-current lead acid battery chargers for this, and I see why. More current = faster rust removal. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPvRJEzp1iKfFzifA2uhntMK5d2GTcA9qiejMAUimC5-GnVP8MIDBJRGnfaIFt6gwp66m7R7yz-ZOdsP2RdJnpVldIgDKsY0scWjqZS2NF2Wndm0I3kzZGJUEV9su4BUw1ArMSA1C8Fv_ACHkxWFbf3iLY9nJ9f6ASsz3zDiqmvherS7n0FfpyLr2-/s4608/IMG_20220414_072043351.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPvRJEzp1iKfFzifA2uhntMK5d2GTcA9qiejMAUimC5-GnVP8MIDBJRGnfaIFt6gwp66m7R7yz-ZOdsP2RdJnpVldIgDKsY0scWjqZS2NF2Wndm0I3kzZGJUEV9su4BUw1ArMSA1C8Fv_ACHkxWFbf3iLY9nJ9f6ASsz3zDiqmvherS7n0FfpyLr2-/s320/IMG_20220414_072043351.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Super gross. Rusty foam.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc2dpzy36vuuEBvT_W39MSKh9mgM8p19U97Rbx50Tk8RI7MS02Lwxx5hRwkxs8gtKxBnRANjTHywVqR_VF-qSjtH4Harmr_qy6-8G5BumXg7QvBbQCoE3wqeQblPcI6iw-ZHJckurhQ3gYFafYteCCGTH-cxDUbyTjx_29Xp3pXPGiI7jwqgMBgguW/s4608/IMG_20220414_073843277.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc2dpzy36vuuEBvT_W39MSKh9mgM8p19U97Rbx50Tk8RI7MS02Lwxx5hRwkxs8gtKxBnRANjTHywVqR_VF-qSjtH4Harmr_qy6-8G5BumXg7QvBbQCoE3wqeQblPcI6iw-ZHJckurhQ3gYFafYteCCGTH-cxDUbyTjx_29Xp3pXPGiI7jwqgMBgguW/s320/IMG_20220414_073843277.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Post rust-removal and rinsing. You can see it started rusting almost immediately.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7M0XdSHOCXAPVWMDvIYm4hpa4Tvz1TH7oOtE2rHyiPRUgAweHT41cNWlFnT-OrIYEcfDMSg9GKb4z4bwW5IOSm701KF4w1ABoQAENG194-fqQomjhChsCgzoVWsP44FBwfXUh1DR0ECtvElNViURNu-v29e95J28WC4UPWFPKlmGi-OQyHBSxw8UJ/s4608/IMG_20220414_074946695.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7M0XdSHOCXAPVWMDvIYm4hpa4Tvz1TH7oOtE2rHyiPRUgAweHT41cNWlFnT-OrIYEcfDMSg9GKb4z4bwW5IOSm701KF4w1ABoQAENG194-fqQomjhChsCgzoVWsP44FBwfXUh1DR0ECtvElNViURNu-v29e95J28WC4UPWFPKlmGi-OQyHBSxw8UJ/w312-h240/IMG_20220414_074946695.jpg" width="312" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coated in CRC</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Interestingly, the trunnion re-rusted in the following week. This was the first part I had re-rust after coating it in CRC. I don't think I dried enough prior to coating, and the CRC must not have displaced the moisture very well. I'm not really sure what to do about that, though. I tried using a heat gun to dry it out quickly, but that made the rust form faster. I might have to re-do the electrolysis (hopefully it'll remove the black crud), wipe it down, dry it out really well with the heat gun, then wipe off the rust with mineral spirits + scotchbrite or something like that before coating it in CRC. </div><div><br /></div><div>The electrolysis products might look gross, but they aren't harmful. Don't use stainless steel electrodes, though, because that can cause some of the toxic elements that are in stainless steel to leech out. Graphite, rare metal oxide coated metal, and platinum also make good electrodes that don't wear as fast as steel (or at all). I'm using baking soda for the electrolyte, which is mild. Something like sodium hydroxide would also work, but would result in a basic (high pH) solution that would need to be neutralized with acid before dumping. I wear goggles and arm-length rubber gloves in a well ventilated space when using these chemicals. If you use them, be smart about it.</div><div><br /></div><div>One annoying aspect of this method is the green-black particulate that ends up coating the part. Assuming your part isn't intricate, unlike the trunnion, it's not hard to scrape off with scotchbright, but part of the point of this method is to not have to do a lot of manual work. I only scraped it off of the important surfaces I could reach on the trunnion, hopefully that's sufficient. So what is it? Well, there's a lot of speculation and myths about it on web tutorials and forums. Some people blame the bicarbonate/carbonates from the electrolyte, or impurities from tap water. I know it's not the tap water because I actually used deionized water in the 5 gallon bucket test and saw it in that. I couldn't find any carbonate compounds that could have formed that were that color either. I'm 90% sure it's ferrous oxide (FeO) and/or Fe3O4, which will form in oxygen-poor environments instead of ferric oxide (Fe2O3, aka, rust), and I'm pretty sure it's coming from oxidation of the sacrificial steel anode. Some of it might also be tin oxide (SnO) from the tin coating. FeO, Fe3O4, and SnO are black powders. It makes sense that they'd end up in suspension in the water, and then end up coating everything. When I dumped the gross water leftover from the trunnion electrolysis, I left some of the water+black powder coating the walls and bottom of the container, and left it outside for a few hours. If it was primarily FeO or Fe3O4, the now-oxygen-rich environment would cause it to oxidize into Fe2O3, which is orange colored. If it was SnO, it would oxidize into SnO2, which is white. It all turned orange in a few hours, which confirms my hypothesis that it is FeO or Fe3O4. It shouldn't be possible for the electrolysis to be stripping raw iron off of the cathode and forming it. Thus, it's either forming from the rust pulled off of the cathode or from oxidation of the anode. </div><div><br /></div><div>I bought some cheap graphite sheets of eBay. I also bought some sodium hydroxide (lye drain cleaner powder), hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid), and litmus paper. I did some more experiments with random rusted parts. These parts are small enough that I'd normally soak them in evaporust, but the goal here is to try to improve the process for large parts. </div><div><br /></div><div>1. Test piece: another rusty part off of the hand planer. I used sodium hydroxide instead of baking soda, and a tin can for the anode. It didn't take much sodium hydroxide to maximize current, only a tablespoon or so for the bucket. I ran this test for about 5 hours. Surprisingly, this electrolyte resulted in a lot less green-black particulate and less anode corrosion. In fact, the anode came out with hardly any rust on it, though it was noticeably thinner. It turns out that a very basic environment can actual reduce steel corrosion. I found a paper online that suggests the mechanism is related to OH- ions forming a barrier to prevent oxidation. This is similar to why steel doesn't rust in concrete: concrete is a basic environment. Anyways, I used the HCl to neutralize the electrolyte solution prior to dumping it. I noticed green-black powder when I dumped it, but also some white, which is probably SnO2 or NaCl (salt). </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgygXCbcPUJosLqiPuF9UY0qbsvoQynEnX113DyG39VkxBHKqqrnrbTDVnyLrObDAkyS5yOWhGcxsqBxOIe4ABFBVfwXJX4mRwmwCH6xKTOuv3egxZ-JBHBnxZfPWKOTjPNTUv_AFAkan1pf-XLeMe1iv8RkY8UA1jSjiEz9iI5gJJWcnRqLkOvfx4v/s4608/IMG_20220417_151056497_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgygXCbcPUJosLqiPuF9UY0qbsvoQynEnX113DyG39VkxBHKqqrnrbTDVnyLrObDAkyS5yOWhGcxsqBxOIe4ABFBVfwXJX4mRwmwCH6xKTOuv3egxZ-JBHBnxZfPWKOTjPNTUv_AFAkan1pf-XLeMe1iv8RkY8UA1jSjiEz9iI5gJJWcnRqLkOvfx4v/s320/IMG_20220417_151056497_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqEaq4lD39Y1S9nknjus89YRx-PHFuYla1MjVSW6NdL8KPL4cSC2ebj_8WNBDLeCDeIm4qfGs3knmolfQPTglkaioCn_MkoqU3_zKMVKa5DNgUgY7cYbzYNuGvMD57wwXEcZCEA52UqPRvDgAuTHf2Y6dfSwO7Aixjgz_bkBFp3RJzPyVULZkgVQ1B/s4608/IMG_20220417_183854946.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqEaq4lD39Y1S9nknjus89YRx-PHFuYla1MjVSW6NdL8KPL4cSC2ebj_8WNBDLeCDeIm4qfGs3knmolfQPTglkaioCn_MkoqU3_zKMVKa5DNgUgY7cYbzYNuGvMD57wwXEcZCEA52UqPRvDgAuTHf2Y6dfSwO7Aixjgz_bkBFp3RJzPyVULZkgVQ1B/s320/IMG_20220417_183854946.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Electrolysis doesn't remove staining, but does remove the rust.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>2. Test piece: another rusty part off of the hand planer. Electrolyte: Baking soda + water. Anode: graphite sheet. I ran this test for about 4 hours. For the first 3 or so of it, there was hardly any black particulate, but the last hour saw a large build up of it. This seemed to correspond to the bucket getting very warm. Also could have been the graphite becoming pitted, which probably enhanced erosion. The graphite will oxidize and form primarily CO2, but I'm guessing that some of it just eroded into the solution as particulate. This black stuff was easier to get off of the part afterwards and looks like soot. The graphite sheet lost about 0.05mm thickness during the test, which is a lot less erosion than the steel, but still pretty significant (~0.5 cm^3). Only the side that was facing the cathode was eroded. </div><div><br /></div><div>3. Test piece: another rusty part off the hand planer. Electrolyte: Sodium hydroxide + water. Anode: graphite sheet. Black particulate was noticeable after the first hour, so it's likely the pitted surface of the graphite is enhancing erosion relative to a smooth surface. I ran this test for about 6 hours, longer because this part was more complex. It removed the rust, but I had to scrape/wipe the black gunk off of it. This black gunk/particulate doesn't turn into rust when exposed to atmosphere, so I'm 99% sure it is eroded graphite. The electrode lost about 0.15mm thickness this time, which is something like twice the erosion rate than with the baking soda electrolyte. I'm not sure how much of that was due to the difference in electrolyte vs. already starting out with a pitted surface, though. Regardless, it doesn't look like sodium hydroxide offers any benefits for electrolysis with graphite anodes. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKsgumonHLhpKIrpU67_ANacrmEso_UxGAKqRMzlg3Y7V2Vpzn1QwU1j2UsJ8M8bJfGmTWTguv3XBZNnyNbhqELNMrDHASt2eRzMTqNhbrXn8QVNxktBrtlOJMLy4EYujReL72dArC3BBvJxlm6VELyjObrFauxUod-B5tJnNyxce-DFt7B7bVi7FH/s4608/IMG_20220419_095039394.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKsgumonHLhpKIrpU67_ANacrmEso_UxGAKqRMzlg3Y7V2Vpzn1QwU1j2UsJ8M8bJfGmTWTguv3XBZNnyNbhqELNMrDHASt2eRzMTqNhbrXn8QVNxktBrtlOJMLy4EYujReL72dArC3BBvJxlm6VELyjObrFauxUod-B5tJnNyxce-DFt7B7bVi7FH/s320/IMG_20220419_095039394.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pre-start-up</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>4. Test piece: another rusty part off of the hand planer. Electrolyte: baking soda + water. Anode: Ir-Ru MMO coated Ti mesh. I bought the anode from <a href="https://electrodesupply.com/" target="_blank">The Electrode Supply</a>. Very reasonable prices for MMO and Platinum electroplated Ti anodes, as well as plain Ti cathodes. This was the best combination of everything I've tried. After 9 hours, the anode had no noticeable wear, and the water only had rust flakes in it, no black gunk. I still had to wipe/scrub loose rust off of the part. This part was more intricate than the last ones, and electrolysis doesn't do a great job in nooks and crannies because the electric field is weaker there. No black gunk made it easier to clean off. I expect using sodium hydroxide instead of baking soda would have had a similar result. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhpIJXQ3di233Ar8cZia-MaLt4-9DveBL9B3tYBH7ilO4dsFuRfhrxsEosfrndiewVn-QqFDCE7n-yVhgj_QcSp2QaKJYtwxbn6wRUm1yoL58-tZZiDC3OO7f5dvC1CBfSLdWCg-fUFSTVm0JupqaD0KR3L7amo4FlMDwcXTaKeSdyBM8hpTYsMifc/s4608/IMG_20220425_173315473_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhpIJXQ3di233Ar8cZia-MaLt4-9DveBL9B3tYBH7ilO4dsFuRfhrxsEosfrndiewVn-QqFDCE7n-yVhgj_QcSp2QaKJYtwxbn6wRUm1yoL58-tZZiDC3OO7f5dvC1CBfSLdWCg-fUFSTVm0JupqaD0KR3L7amo4FlMDwcXTaKeSdyBM8hpTYsMifc/s320/IMG_20220425_173315473_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top: MMO coated Ti mesh, Bottom: Plain Ti mesh</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOIiX3GMGtgHTDf8t9ub5HAZSAEBOQ1HHH4i5rHMujLiHs4hkzEV0xpIUad3n4Fsm9g6M7_qLwu-Cf_lA6VGgGjSfPTSWk1eSV5mJtVfKRIEiDyA_KQJBIeJ70V1tiGGHCN9TShRlQezboq9RKmpWgQ4MDJPJ03nRYODdyIHa60s1TaKRMQ_ch5-Y/s4608/IMG_20220425_173543430_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOIiX3GMGtgHTDf8t9ub5HAZSAEBOQ1HHH4i5rHMujLiHs4hkzEV0xpIUad3n4Fsm9g6M7_qLwu-Cf_lA6VGgGjSfPTSWk1eSV5mJtVfKRIEiDyA_KQJBIeJ70V1tiGGHCN9TShRlQezboq9RKmpWgQ4MDJPJ03nRYODdyIHa60s1TaKRMQ_ch5-Y/s320/IMG_20220425_173543430_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2gEyUoPFVBYj40V9acD9hbhuVBa-Ot0oit5k5P1YULQi82YYeEGKsMZOm2uJQKNfZHFrKVWLgvgI6aJ1xCP32V5cBTwqdDDxOe7qeo_n1d7intisDQH_vdpn9R_i1JglTETgUsG57soz8zae61qc08Jlt7do1EkxOnf4fSMUEUolJ-Yhjtq3J_om/s4608/IMG_20220425_200226078.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2gEyUoPFVBYj40V9acD9hbhuVBa-Ot0oit5k5P1YULQi82YYeEGKsMZOm2uJQKNfZHFrKVWLgvgI6aJ1xCP32V5cBTwqdDDxOe7qeo_n1d7intisDQH_vdpn9R_i1JglTETgUsG57soz8zae61qc08Jlt7do1EkxOnf4fSMUEUolJ-Yhjtq3J_om/s320/IMG_20220425_200226078.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rust flakes in bottom, water still fairly clear.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><h2 style="text-align: left;">Final Words on Rust Removal</h2>I've used and documented many rust removal techniques in this blog. Here's my opinion on when to use which:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Small parts: soak in evaporust</li><li>Parts too large to soak in evaporust, but smaller than the largest non-conductive watertight container that you own or can easily obtain: electrolysis with MMO anode and baking soda to avoid the black particulate coating. If you can't get or don't have a MMO anode, (and assuming you're safety-conscious) sodium hydroxide will result in less black particulate with a steel anode than sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate. Graphite anodes will wear slower than steel anodes, but the eroded graphite is only slightly less annoying than the black particulate generated by steel anodes. </li><li>Parts too large for the largest non-conductive watertight container that you own or can easily obtain, and/or if you have an outdoor space in which you can use a professional sandblaster (also assuming you own a nice sandblaster): sandblasting</li><li>Parts too large for the largest non-conductive watertight container that you own or can easily obtain, and if you don't have a professional sandblaster or a place to use it: angle grinder with wire wheels</li><li>If money is not a problem: toss or sell whatever it is, buy a new one, and keep it coated in a rust-inhibitor to prevent rust from ever occurring. </li></ul><div>Evaporust will not strip paint unless rust is underneath the paint. Electrolysis will sometimes strip paint. If you have small rusty parts that also have paint you need to strip, a sandblaster might be a better option: I have a small sandblaster that works well for that kind of thing. A nice plus with the sandblaster is that it doesn't get the parts wet, so they don't rust quite as fast afterwards. Always immediately coat whatever part you removed rust from in something that prevents rusting, e.g. rust-inhibiting paint-primer, oil, paste wax, WD-40, CRC 3-36, etc.</div></div><div><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Next Steps</h2><div>I need to de-rust some motor parts, as well as the main top plate. Then it's on to re-assembly! I'm planning a few modifications:</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>1. Make some zero-clearance throat plate inserts</div><div>2. Add a splitter behind the blade</div><div>3. Reinforce the sidewall where the bevel screw braces to prevent it from bowing. </div><div>4. New fence? </div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-64243530398143268872022-01-22T18:56:00.007-05:002022-01-22T19:01:25.085-05:00Craftsman Table Saw Refurbishment, part2<p style="text-align: left;"> Made some more progress disassembling the table saw. Bought a set of 3-jaw external pullers from Walmart.com for $17...even cheaper than Harbor Freight, but the reviews were good, and they worked great.</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQiHP6KP_snA2ENULlfauolOCEdrYyT57mthzumX1ajAogJcxadlKZHRE5VYagjO1vIt0rgYb-iA5NAukrWC4YvWyzhyjduUD7_OwkzLtl-npH3WEq0oN0wCUW7MKeclK0Su8qtkUrpfXspqZR0_MBCw-rKHItE_rlCEBHHygZYUZERVmOlsQz3suJ=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiQiHP6KP_snA2ENULlfauolOCEdrYyT57mthzumX1ajAogJcxadlKZHRE5VYagjO1vIt0rgYb-iA5NAukrWC4YvWyzhyjduUD7_OwkzLtl-npH3WEq0oN0wCUW7MKeclK0Su8qtkUrpfXspqZR0_MBCw-rKHItE_rlCEBHHygZYUZERVmOlsQz3suJ=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulling the broken pulley off, super easy with the right tool</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj1RyyvimjYJFsQB6ePb6CE3-kSRQylSQVaECCVb6OZrfGy2-I-Vqj7rB09GVZRewbuhH0PFAWj74Yzv_HofTHZW4Ncz-VOAos1zJ3j2hMd0IgidysfZEpkfMRfr-H01AixCqWmXH8KJ4hDbahD1lqTaDuG7FDRv7Iq_-a5u6irZoJe77IOeoItlnTD=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj1RyyvimjYJFsQB6ePb6CE3-kSRQylSQVaECCVb6OZrfGy2-I-Vqj7rB09GVZRewbuhH0PFAWj74Yzv_HofTHZW4Ncz-VOAos1zJ3j2hMd0IgidysfZEpkfMRfr-H01AixCqWmXH8KJ4hDbahD1lqTaDuG7FDRv7Iq_-a5u6irZoJe77IOeoItlnTD=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulling the motor pulley off</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Both pulley keys were rusty, but in good shape, so I probably won't need new keys.<br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgNFQuPQ8xOKcD-ltv2fNdxmD4HeNrwUBJf-7jBHSwSDZONs4cCTw3mfLiICf4kF8GIgB-KJzeeUyOhGjrN-twGBg3B2j9gTOidLoz_EUgEsIGGgW9rpPyXhO2x_h9XpJEFgBfw3D4tmR1K4JN06gwbo8WDse3NTI26fSfgs942bEmQavpAJOX0oWPY=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgNFQuPQ8xOKcD-ltv2fNdxmD4HeNrwUBJf-7jBHSwSDZONs4cCTw3mfLiICf4kF8GIgB-KJzeeUyOhGjrN-twGBg3B2j9gTOidLoz_EUgEsIGGgW9rpPyXhO2x_h9XpJEFgBfw3D4tmR1K4JN06gwbo8WDse3NTI26fSfgs942bEmQavpAJOX0oWPY=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Removing the lift pivot</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I can't pull the arbor shaft out until I get some snap ring pliers, and I won't be able to pull the arbor bearings without an internal bearing puller. Next, I unbolted the trunnion brackets, which freed the whole trunnion. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhZCQgFEWNkeK90CrzpqPy6yQAKA9-2CfM2MBdDwgFFWBmZYOI1VH1xwfPFukAsNE7QUMn6mZ_POSfhbNCg1UUuaLbdBwfL_8eGmKiaJC4dLOEBwwqFG4U4svQPgEPf4ov2LOBFK6WpI9yAvSVUNlTGi0KAUtApcBtfSaXTBi5Olw9uui0kQJijP6XI=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhZCQgFEWNkeK90CrzpqPy6yQAKA9-2CfM2MBdDwgFFWBmZYOI1VH1xwfPFukAsNE7QUMn6mZ_POSfhbNCg1UUuaLbdBwfL_8eGmKiaJC4dLOEBwwqFG4U4svQPgEPf4ov2LOBFK6WpI9yAvSVUNlTGi0KAUtApcBtfSaXTBi5Olw9uui0kQJijP6XI=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhqc61r2KNaqnWVWH6BEU5fSLiEbYDAx8Qqjff5AFtWMQiqMp-LBK9Lz3iodbFIxeqJjr6d4rklkFr9LlWLbMtmQrCL5M-4Jshv8sP7LmfBkK7ux4CB0cUZrLEotk3Fx428nIBAWjw697PBqwwkjVM8S04skGmTpgLfLaGFfonq7h_rOx2heJQCFdzZ=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhqc61r2KNaqnWVWH6BEU5fSLiEbYDAx8Qqjff5AFtWMQiqMp-LBK9Lz3iodbFIxeqJjr6d4rklkFr9LlWLbMtmQrCL5M-4Jshv8sP7LmfBkK7ux4CB0cUZrLEotk3Fx428nIBAWjw697PBqwwkjVM8S04skGmTpgLfLaGFfonq7h_rOx2heJQCFdzZ=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yay, saw disassembled!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />I could hear the bearings when I spun the motor shaft, which is never a good sign. So next up was motor disassembly:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgEde11U85szwXeTj-WSX9TXcoLiyl9kmEzqb8NM8sDPwVbYxO9gk-YpkLA5YqxiqAXJ6l0CXqzB-F_bnpvv8xS4I0gDwO_68Quy39wp3lmnuY2tl_ydHUiTRlXwRNKEBNDaRkShHAiiCTg3s8ZqGUT8OTRrwnEmd1NY1qF5MvYSXTvBMZyn0ncZZ6n=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgEde11U85szwXeTj-WSX9TXcoLiyl9kmEzqb8NM8sDPwVbYxO9gk-YpkLA5YqxiqAXJ6l0CXqzB-F_bnpvv8xS4I0gDwO_68Quy39wp3lmnuY2tl_ydHUiTRlXwRNKEBNDaRkShHAiiCTg3s8ZqGUT8OTRrwnEmd1NY1qF5MvYSXTvBMZyn0ncZZ6n=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bracket clamp thingy</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhQS8mO2k7BngqLG0Bn_jmIYyRwDqudxphuYuXCALgp8zd22pOJB2_u1uHt-BAA3T4tzPzFZnhwzZcQ6Oz7zkOE3JDCjeE9fHYrrjy3-yD3UXEvIu1RZeLqlhjidnZ3zNNHyCByveuOUpoDmv2cDMNP81K6xGBby1ZhXqJfzr_qrHx3sM2wDLUB5XkN=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhQS8mO2k7BngqLG0Bn_jmIYyRwDqudxphuYuXCALgp8zd22pOJB2_u1uHt-BAA3T4tzPzFZnhwzZcQ6Oz7zkOE3JDCjeE9fHYrrjy3-yD3UXEvIu1RZeLqlhjidnZ3zNNHyCByveuOUpoDmv2cDMNP81K6xGBby1ZhXqJfzr_qrHx3sM2wDLUB5XkN=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Motor mounting brackets off. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjqONpjAN105CRnpJvsxtR-7DUqo_9xNTmX_HhmTPIug02dt4YTxw7V3dRBnqwbTsfsAtB864EbVolFVr8qZCDHzdWFY8G0iooSuaXVAZo7KTQ8lTnOiFDTVBdva3kJq8vo9QTh8lFdqYVXq6RSXyiRrjOt7HW5IotZuwI-GhKE0I7jfQg7KJHI-BSD=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjqONpjAN105CRnpJvsxtR-7DUqo_9xNTmX_HhmTPIug02dt4YTxw7V3dRBnqwbTsfsAtB864EbVolFVr8qZCDHzdWFY8G0iooSuaXVAZo7KTQ8lTnOiFDTVBdva3kJq8vo9QTh8lFdqYVXq6RSXyiRrjOt7HW5IotZuwI-GhKE0I7jfQg7KJHI-BSD=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So much dust and rust</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjXE-BcwNQS5bKTp8shzNJCNiz9buWa7Z6XK8KjdsdVqJM2srgG-wmcXfnWVYrUfFcqmj8cZyd9WTw5TrmG_SdVQQhgsnNhHDM8J7IbON82jXuWGWzhrB3wNjEmL_bYil19xVfvwPqtwpGvb1rrLF9N3nKWis5GTwJ6-W2oAdI85yehDluFbRPRemC5=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjXE-BcwNQS5bKTp8shzNJCNiz9buWa7Z6XK8KjdsdVqJM2srgG-wmcXfnWVYrUfFcqmj8cZyd9WTw5TrmG_SdVQQhgsnNhHDM8J7IbON82jXuWGWzhrB3wNjEmL_bYil19xVfvwPqtwpGvb1rrLF9N3nKWis5GTwJ6-W2oAdI85yehDluFbRPRemC5=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bleh</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiseMOSI38PmBphI_AL-9JKUsi229MR9F6TC9_9HfvoCvWcsMEihOLTTwgRGeIkIO6bT1b-s8dYMSeS4PceVJyt-7y-AqbKMkF2MRLTu9OJhjAGoBRQL2xt_90Mx3Ni6wVx--uyIc7300HC9w_VFKEl64ijd4bG9Rd78s_aRTo1GU5rgCL-vU6hJoII=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiseMOSI38PmBphI_AL-9JKUsi229MR9F6TC9_9HfvoCvWcsMEihOLTTwgRGeIkIO6bT1b-s8dYMSeS4PceVJyt-7y-AqbKMkF2MRLTu9OJhjAGoBRQL2xt_90Mx3Ni6wVx--uyIc7300HC9w_VFKEl64ijd4bG9Rd78s_aRTo1GU5rgCL-vU6hJoII=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More bleh. Gonna clean all of this up</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiw-zkGrV2E0cQFCOGUiBxPcS895FWSJ6xSHSixaNORhACs8UPQbj1ko8i-Zn85aaC0kl4xZqDj4eWH1SUlYg2wgA1LjySOnBu4um_TUVjwhPHoFglzVRDG8n6PcqVuwYdw6WQP88qeCEuA5huCLWhkgxSNyLDAd80lH_bIW-cF9pRW0OfsAKNaxgF8=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiw-zkGrV2E0cQFCOGUiBxPcS895FWSJ6xSHSixaNORhACs8UPQbj1ko8i-Zn85aaC0kl4xZqDj4eWH1SUlYg2wgA1LjySOnBu4um_TUVjwhPHoFglzVRDG8n6PcqVuwYdw6WQP88qeCEuA5huCLWhkgxSNyLDAd80lH_bIW-cF9pRW0OfsAKNaxgF8=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rotor assembly. Not really sure what the springy thing on <br />right is. Motor manual calls it an "actuator". Anyone know?</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg4OQ0EpBR5zndVCAe8Rmhb_e-LgLPRf8DvKAhFBelUNMtRpy6dTCdh06RecoSZenXT7nNpROU80ZIPZ4dIbF4Fx2jxMJEXNeIiyb5xfeqOVEk7U0ayo8nqXm4v4kkgzPfuVsbJqExwDcOGNOYhsKA1ac2wZpGZXpSUQi8Zc1wHYASPECxMpaeCS2Or=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg4OQ0EpBR5zndVCAe8Rmhb_e-LgLPRf8DvKAhFBelUNMtRpy6dTCdh06RecoSZenXT7nNpROU80ZIPZ4dIbF4Fx2jxMJEXNeIiyb5xfeqOVEk7U0ayo8nqXm4v4kkgzPfuVsbJqExwDcOGNOYhsKA1ac2wZpGZXpSUQi8Zc1wHYASPECxMpaeCS2Or=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stator and coils look good.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I could feel the radial play in the front bearing (eek). The rear bearing didn't have radial play, but was a little crunchy. Yeah, definitely need to replace those. Turns out that the bearings were pressed onto the shaft, not into the end bells, so I could use the external pullers that I used on the pulleys to pull them off. This was kind of tricky. You have to get the tips of the jaws onto the side of the inner race and hold them there while you turn the puller screw. You can't pull by the bearing shield or outer race or the bearing might come apart. Also, the tip of the screw leaves an ugly divot in the end of the shaft. I have some grinding stones/small files I'll use to remove the burr, but that's kind of annoying. I understand why it has a point, though; without it, the screw would work its way off the end of the shaft as you screwed it.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjxx8t0PO7NqgoXbzvxca9sQLm1rUW5ggKb1XZXrdEaVpSAui2i45J7SKCqx_EJDvDwoiKOoZK7NaboSalnNgh44-Gq2jbEgFgcbwru2jy6REtIqEDdXxYmt3ga7JtBgiNmW7DZZR-Z0Kh6NGlRKhnXyL7M72UgviX2p17Nv3elro7TJMDw78_POBZa=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjxx8t0PO7NqgoXbzvxca9sQLm1rUW5ggKb1XZXrdEaVpSAui2i45J7SKCqx_EJDvDwoiKOoZK7NaboSalnNgh44-Gq2jbEgFgcbwru2jy6REtIqEDdXxYmt3ga7JtBgiNmW7DZZR-Z0Kh6NGlRKhnXyL7M72UgviX2p17Nv3elro7TJMDw78_POBZa=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small puller got the rear bearing off</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhp0Xz3MM3xtDg116q81fPU12SKZEd46z1YV2ZGwRNx1vrnoPmTDdpeDo4rpTViWujxPueDa_hRW5aTfHOJ17Ia0CcKeGHfCsWkddol2bund9N249ulos3pPJy4Tvi8dGp-7llNOyN7wpdXKtbmpmAKoXu2Iz2xJtRfPtmKCX7NvKN1vKw-YFQBZmZI=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhp0Xz3MM3xtDg116q81fPU12SKZEd46z1YV2ZGwRNx1vrnoPmTDdpeDo4rpTViWujxPueDa_hRW5aTfHOJ17Ia0CcKeGHfCsWkddol2bund9N249ulos3pPJy4Tvi8dGp-7llNOyN7wpdXKtbmpmAKoXu2Iz2xJtRfPtmKCX7NvKN1vKw-YFQBZmZI=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 4" bearing puller just barely fit.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">One I got the front bearing moving, it slid freely up until it hit the rusty part of the shaft. What I should have done at this point was use a scrubby and WD40 to get all the rust off the shaft. I tried just pulling the bearing off first, but it got stuck on the rust, which made holding the jaws on the inner race too difficult. Ended up using a steel cylinder with a hole in it that I happened to have in the scrap bin and a hammer to tap it back down the shaft. Then I did the scrubby and WD40 thing, and it just slid right off. Facepalm*</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhhyw38O7z1XSxJcjULXDe2l-UAt5JiQDzWFLiTYmIsIxosYxQ1BJ_JfZG8Chh1fXRnQiXX5rNmgO3-zs48o2qNzFxCa9BuubrGeXHod7qc9ToTR-Ew8O8_WEfwkuqTnxSgMYh8ZfYmpxYhwODkyvl5Jjjsf7hMzLuasM0rXCbrtlcYJmF7mRiW49Xr=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhhyw38O7z1XSxJcjULXDe2l-UAt5JiQDzWFLiTYmIsIxosYxQ1BJ_JfZG8Chh1fXRnQiXX5rNmgO3-zs48o2qNzFxCa9BuubrGeXHod7qc9ToTR-Ew8O8_WEfwkuqTnxSgMYh8ZfYmpxYhwODkyvl5Jjjsf7hMzLuasM0rXCbrtlcYJmF7mRiW49Xr=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuck. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi9QcF3zVXkVX0vXgiWss9XITs7iAJljviqdyb1dLfFL_jspjhCqfyvXm02aj4P5ry3fi7vSByP9RXyZwtlSXLqy6n6APKb6vzQc4tuuDJ8-FAeYsWindzA1Zmxulbdg1A-6f-AIwRzB5BLmMg3gmKeSFQAVEFkI-diTias5fHvlcfGcI4_5ifdvyoq=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi9QcF3zVXkVX0vXgiWss9XITs7iAJljviqdyb1dLfFL_jspjhCqfyvXm02aj4P5ry3fi7vSByP9RXyZwtlSXLqy6n6APKb6vzQc4tuuDJ8-FAeYsWindzA1Zmxulbdg1A-6f-AIwRzB5BLmMg3gmKeSFQAVEFkI-diTias5fHvlcfGcI4_5ifdvyoq=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tapped it back off the rust</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjzGgCP-yFFbuS3JqjkC3mVlGiqH8xrn5SwAL02QX3iwjr4LtICi6fQT9KoDM-2YYgnbD9zvF0urxoesJJprCPNvQgE2SndfPYusQDHLqUmOq35j91eVfVkC-RPwpXj1SJi6jkb74vjKNVPOGPkK1EVoTcqJU7SBZCV39ZbGgXpitFgyGPjMG3dW4qW=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjzGgCP-yFFbuS3JqjkC3mVlGiqH8xrn5SwAL02QX3iwjr4LtICi6fQT9KoDM-2YYgnbD9zvF0urxoesJJprCPNvQgE2SndfPYusQDHLqUmOq35j91eVfVkC-RPwpXj1SJi6jkb74vjKNVPOGPkK1EVoTcqJU7SBZCV39ZbGgXpitFgyGPjMG3dW4qW=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slid right off after cleaning the rust off</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The bearings are NSK 6203Z-5/8 's (5/8" ID, 40mm OD, 12mm wide). Definitely not original, so someone has done this before. NSK is a good brand, I may buy the exact same ones. </p><p>The only thing left to disassemble is the arbor shaft (need snap ring pliers and small internal bearing puller). I'll start cleaning and evaporust'ing in the mean time. </p></div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-27326789151751607592022-01-20T20:09:00.002-05:002022-01-20T20:10:44.907-05:00Workbench, part4<p>Another workbench progress update. I installed most of the 2x4 horizontal beams. I couldn't install three because one of the bandsaw bearing pivots must be installed first, but I did dry fit them. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg8TyYYQhg2yUhyuZfaqUkCXkG-rAneOUDKnQWcvzqLnfKEcut5PEjD3BU_iz5qPTgGw7RJ9AUcc704ZfiC5HfUD31rtOFqEreF05i-MgIxcei5xjuHbVID-iSGzkRV4Wv_QsDVHfMHSnLXDnFwR669l333pwtRKJ4WzlYB3bx3TjxGTT0d8KGaLVbq=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg8TyYYQhg2yUhyuZfaqUkCXkG-rAneOUDKnQWcvzqLnfKEcut5PEjD3BU_iz5qPTgGw7RJ9AUcc704ZfiC5HfUD31rtOFqEreF05i-MgIxcei5xjuHbVID-iSGzkRV4Wv_QsDVHfMHSnLXDnFwR669l333pwtRKJ4WzlYB3bx3TjxGTT0d8KGaLVbq=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dry fit stack up</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg2PQGasIEJxbp2UxnBfrsfgYpXwf2GSBT5jgw6muuC8ugofPsI15FwOBfvnScB8qJx8PCFqiMQZiu3hvR5rrsdxrIJ0GG4eYIKMdjDGdSwXKBNIZlPCK7haVtKnvcATj2V7xI6te4u9dgmO7V2O35sjX5kYJSdEaYlFMEHrLRX-JlBg951uFBMGsCN=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg2PQGasIEJxbp2UxnBfrsfgYpXwf2GSBT5jgw6muuC8ugofPsI15FwOBfvnScB8qJx8PCFqiMQZiu3hvR5rrsdxrIJ0GG4eYIKMdjDGdSwXKBNIZlPCK7haVtKnvcATj2V7xI6te4u9dgmO7V2O35sjX5kYJSdEaYlFMEHrLRX-JlBg951uFBMGsCN=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear bandsaw stop notch block. Lots of pocket holes.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjyDUL1mGqBzCk_QzwDfJ0BD_vpEzuz68PUvpD_7mIgq88ZO4d7USlDpJXOkIIbmvDlEdUQxK3yDWdhDTv2UXpk3UffmQo3hmcfbsq79atk47Kez8R82Ldug_vtw1deNzu1cuGlGi2CEsH5BWYZlLAa3kMEam_u3HSR-EVhfvhlYCsJLWhAD4cxv0QC=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjyDUL1mGqBzCk_QzwDfJ0BD_vpEzuz68PUvpD_7mIgq88ZO4d7USlDpJXOkIIbmvDlEdUQxK3yDWdhDTv2UXpk3UffmQo3hmcfbsq79atk47Kez8R82Ldug_vtw1deNzu1cuGlGi2CEsH5BWYZlLAa3kMEam_u3HSR-EVhfvhlYCsJLWhAD4cxv0QC=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEinFJgdKs5fjluHdi09VBzhqJ-ISYWiwJNA6oavc2gol2HfU4ycIwt2F7OQ03lvTNSbf_SOi_0MCEaaT6j0BsQsgZ6PIZmKAGnxnM51GVuHsyjhsy05gmJeW4WO4IHii_S9gvmBJlBPibzZtrS7xNqndYlBCfYIGjaH63OXEiv-UcvL0hjVEal-KO5b=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEinFJgdKs5fjluHdi09VBzhqJ-ISYWiwJNA6oavc2gol2HfU4ycIwt2F7OQ03lvTNSbf_SOi_0MCEaaT6j0BsQsgZ6PIZmKAGnxnM51GVuHsyjhsy05gmJeW4WO4IHii_S9gvmBJlBPibzZtrS7xNqndYlBCfYIGjaH63OXEiv-UcvL0hjVEal-KO5b=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corner glue up before mounting.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjpDhEVoUqMeiVDO_PyOFfVSmc4YzF37zlMzl2UIyToTPTnnW45Qkz9M2e3fozcF5jFlJCW9_E3i2V7Kh2Iyqdjs5P_aNRW0lo5oVSqSvRm1kdGOp_VGvjbfOafIMy14GmwWoz1aBgNAa9YIwAJ9u177_LKA1EpSXoLP0tvNs3-_ajPIXLsUutyPbTk=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjpDhEVoUqMeiVDO_PyOFfVSmc4YzF37zlMzl2UIyToTPTnnW45Qkz9M2e3fozcF5jFlJCW9_E3i2V7Kh2Iyqdjs5P_aNRW0lo5oVSqSvRm1kdGOp_VGvjbfOafIMy14GmwWoz1aBgNAa9YIwAJ9u177_LKA1EpSXoLP0tvNs3-_ajPIXLsUutyPbTk=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>I also haven't installed the horizontal beams that need to be cut lengthwise because cutting those will require a <a href="https://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/search/label/table%20saw">table saw</a>, and I'm refurbishing mine. </p>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-77885341748319080612022-01-20T20:08:00.009-05:002022-04-17T12:28:17.049-04:00Craftsman Table Saw Refurbishment, part1<div class="separator">I bought a 113 series Craftsman table saw off FB marketplace/craigslist a few months ago. It worked, but it was pretty rusty, so I wanted to refurbish it. It's also way too heavy for me to lift onto the workbench, so I'd have to disassemble it anyways. I took lots of pictures during this process, and put fasteners in labeled bags so I'd be able to put it back together. </div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjUhod86ZlybNm4CXxe-X1xSu5aAprqmZ4J9ZFrfTlcnKFOUnA7bD8XoKmqvyisHTbHP1shxH9nIqsFHGUTYODmAHcj01Y4aKWqUZS8NQkmC7Kzfy1oSgu5JO06LdmsbywJQAeQTLwdK_aNR9_Vk200pWxjkAGEyA3G6aoha_9tY5WUijwlViMdTV4k=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjUhod86ZlybNm4CXxe-X1xSu5aAprqmZ4J9ZFrfTlcnKFOUnA7bD8XoKmqvyisHTbHP1shxH9nIqsFHGUTYODmAHcj01Y4aKWqUZS8NQkmC7Kzfy1oSgu5JO06LdmsbywJQAeQTLwdK_aNR9_Vk200pWxjkAGEyA3G6aoha_9tY5WUijwlViMdTV4k=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">before disassembly</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhk6pnWFaITmyqpKnaLP9lYIIdBIAZW6V3E23y9S-SkJhOH0aZ34jlLq1RuJujhsLbB_moXuRxvAV92DXZIfeu0OZ5sGw1_hEahuV_npQHJ59swWWJze5TXTskP-f4jMV3BhnU-STUzfAImA1gm-IzWIhufvj6mRGxIi2kaPmRJP7A5gIdH8STR-Xsc=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhk6pnWFaITmyqpKnaLP9lYIIdBIAZW6V3E23y9S-SkJhOH0aZ34jlLq1RuJujhsLbB_moXuRxvAV92DXZIfeu0OZ5sGw1_hEahuV_npQHJ59swWWJze5TXTskP-f4jMV3BhnU-STUzfAImA1gm-IzWIhufvj6mRGxIi2kaPmRJP7A5gIdH8STR-Xsc=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhqpZV8dwf76wMqfo9O9diNV--mIAi8VT_0sYwGeZuQJwMl_soo5SmG_nFItXCcYCxOWGkHcY4J9OYl9ne3v0SNRy8USI71PAyGQKy8W0elC6CS3Zs8NX3YVL94XvyjIthbGZnOVnbf6Pq6YhHDphH3hyH67KKJwjuwXjYiK9IQooJwK9ilLcXqos0h=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhqpZV8dwf76wMqfo9O9diNV--mIAi8VT_0sYwGeZuQJwMl_soo5SmG_nFItXCcYCxOWGkHcY4J9OYl9ne3v0SNRy8USI71PAyGQKy8W0elC6CS3Zs8NX3YVL94XvyjIthbGZnOVnbf6Pq6YhHDphH3hyH67KKJwjuwXjYiK9IQooJwK9ilLcXqos0h=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So much rust</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEih6ZY6NJfeIqGc-p1p1izg7g21SVCEZWt--ALvfXbOIQcDKz9uUUOH8DWOH_cuiQ8Xj6pJ2ea0CmQTjirEBafu-iZ5j-y8jYCw3DCtGt0lksZFNq1r_xKoCPUqwf8Ei63NNsSE__QqPEbk7-_n9LzDWzlFBkO3pscWmV7zZNnCJMAgxm0AizM9L5Ca=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEih6ZY6NJfeIqGc-p1p1izg7g21SVCEZWt--ALvfXbOIQcDKz9uUUOH8DWOH_cuiQ8Xj6pJ2ea0CmQTjirEBafu-iZ5j-y8jYCw3DCtGt0lksZFNq1r_xKoCPUqwf8Ei63NNsSE__QqPEbk7-_n9LzDWzlFBkO3pscWmV7zZNnCJMAgxm0AizM9L5Ca=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First step: remove the belt</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjz2voLlrJMYUJW64rUnOiJhSI_bPQzuXQ124WpOI4ShgietN5ntlv54M9sheQ1CTXR4hs0amGn7uxLDApBJgh6j_49nRz4VNjZ3w4K85qfHDtNJb90R_udo2IPTBK3ZP6mn6WS8zgw7z4HCwFBP09IitHpywWXCQqAUyp5vo16CJp4A_8uKHdxeMac=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjz2voLlrJMYUJW64rUnOiJhSI_bPQzuXQ124WpOI4ShgietN5ntlv54M9sheQ1CTXR4hs0amGn7uxLDApBJgh6j_49nRz4VNjZ3w4K85qfHDtNJb90R_udo2IPTBK3ZP6mn6WS8zgw7z4HCwFBP09IitHpywWXCQqAUyp5vo16CJp4A_8uKHdxeMac=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then removed the motor + motor mount. <br />The two pins slide out, so the whole assembly comes off.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> <span> </span> <span> </span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiMT16JJkDCM3TmWb85DJVWBkadrQaTZrBEVa-1INqxNassziNsXhH-xfYlHrCpG6agi8uwsS_JDchq0FAutqNHlnqyg8zHAh1aQkGJGz64IQvMe1FG53LX0GTf9ezbDxY7BJ640v5Gm5f7HEQAMX5JbYBeDdjOKq0azjz3cZBB9ef1A44nhXGAVzER=s320" width="240" /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgkXxOl7DSdUXLfWNbDlrKXwJRg1HKDY2AXvmrODiHKNshXjG0RvbN70RIuZ19kS7nmBXPpcOjPIPZsnfZ9uaM5iPZgONF9gk8BYMiV3cvh_6fiabuV7r5xIHE0puHmaCPCu3l1Ubrk-htQnYGpe8QtwlyKWc3i5WfgkPIKO1r8vG1Rxs2Ke0yNzXag=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgkXxOl7DSdUXLfWNbDlrKXwJRg1HKDY2AXvmrODiHKNshXjG0RvbN70RIuZ19kS7nmBXPpcOjPIPZsnfZ9uaM5iPZgONF9gk8BYMiV3cvh_6fiabuV7r5xIHE0puHmaCPCu3l1Ubrk-htQnYGpe8QtwlyKWc3i5WfgkPIKO1r8vG1Rxs2Ke0yNzXag=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Removed the blade next. No arbor flats, <br />so I used a block of wood to keep the blade from spinning.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgftAAPPPzJvrZV8krZ9ZjpbY3Ia7vGZUCYrR4wva3SrWghEWzsklcgEiyMWUMZDWrdYq1X7TIHqKiv6ejVLswL8Fg7CwZkpAxuPvu4vVstXKurOrLnV4SC6opp3O2BY6ytSwA-qn0c_1rUGHLd1qyn5J5tamIRp-b5DvkEJirKWEwngxv3TLiTnHPE=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgftAAPPPzJvrZV8krZ9ZjpbY3Ia7vGZUCYrR4wva3SrWghEWzsklcgEiyMWUMZDWrdYq1X7TIHqKiv6ejVLswL8Fg7CwZkpAxuPvu4vVstXKurOrLnV4SC6opp3O2BY6ytSwA-qn0c_1rUGHLd1qyn5J5tamIRp-b5DvkEJirKWEwngxv3TLiTnHPE=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Took the fence bars and wings off</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhz_Ct8xrcUjrSbkgq8IpXQV0GkNbcoT6G4dmjMSwAp4QTJWnkSNNL-sY9WcvVdsvEsM7T07qECl9HXNFMHKm8HTPPLkbsaIprsbTnycjbtGfBZ1Z7HhaKLP460HJuFs4DHgNrrcsrP2R0gdPLkIXpyo-RESKX6VttmWfA2_CAdTyR4-_-L0RL1ceLF=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhz_Ct8xrcUjrSbkgq8IpXQV0GkNbcoT6G4dmjMSwAp4QTJWnkSNNL-sY9WcvVdsvEsM7T07qECl9HXNFMHKm8HTPPLkbsaIprsbTnycjbtGfBZ1Z7HhaKLP460HJuFs4DHgNrrcsrP2R0gdPLkIXpyo-RESKX6VttmWfA2_CAdTyR4-_-L0RL1ceLF=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flipped it over onto another furniture dolly</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiGYO-M_GVxPPplwOSAaAg32qpwHqd0GkY3F3R4pymItGPjOR88swKnJA3VgWw7jbgxWx3mTEQ-bSHbQfn6LDrVPFFGejO8r9NPNlfzJHbsfitzVe8-CFy5M2f5jKya-RAjT4v8vfkUC21uiZpZ2T1q-T07rkyZNvtKTHHqeEC1ZenXvTyrtaOYuU1L=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiGYO-M_GVxPPplwOSAaAg32qpwHqd0GkY3F3R4pymItGPjOR88swKnJA3VgWw7jbgxWx3mTEQ-bSHbQfn6LDrVPFFGejO8r9NPNlfzJHbsfitzVe8-CFy5M2f5jKya-RAjT4v8vfkUC21uiZpZ2T1q-T07rkyZNvtKTHHqeEC1ZenXvTyrtaOYuU1L=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Had to disconnect the bevel screw before I <br />could slide the box off towards the rear.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgO3kJ3G0QI1wuNNbMwkpwb2_4brFOGKHvkw9TqrH2UQx2hhokEicrGYCb3-kdD-R6wAjpEEOaZEWbKDyaJ4E6KwAa5z4tRwKHsmnN29U9-Gpe_WAXQ9gbeCaVMRydrwUOvZR-r3qO5iGCEFA3iYkQN-ocpWN9YCD0Xmphzx6mFIhaRc_73o_uelQXt=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgO3kJ3G0QI1wuNNbMwkpwb2_4brFOGKHvkw9TqrH2UQx2hhokEicrGYCb3-kdD-R6wAjpEEOaZEWbKDyaJ4E6KwAa5z4tRwKHsmnN29U9-Gpe_WAXQ9gbeCaVMRydrwUOvZR-r3qO5iGCEFA3iYkQN-ocpWN9YCD0Xmphzx6mFIhaRc_73o_uelQXt=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trunion assembly exposed. So much rust</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHnlJc6oXwabkyFibH4Mwp9NpEccY8pREI8XIbE0DJP68yQqCS-FrAlSiuEYCsE0UNYHImqCE-2iyVst4IFbxw5uKzwngT1a-SfMhOpEWPPtoHbngtV1Qv090MRzNlXSVBWjYp-q4OOgMPH2HdfPbozd8x-93b_O-nZm9YhoS-iRv5zLD0xNV7RZuj=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHnlJc6oXwabkyFibH4Mwp9NpEccY8pREI8XIbE0DJP68yQqCS-FrAlSiuEYCsE0UNYHImqCE-2iyVst4IFbxw5uKzwngT1a-SfMhOpEWPPtoHbngtV1Qv090MRzNlXSVBWjYp-q4OOgMPH2HdfPbozd8x-93b_O-nZm9YhoS-iRv5zLD0xNV7RZuj=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Made some good progress prying the arbor pulley off until I broke it. Sigh...</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhYtJ3JUt0bXXw-mWTB3ysW7rUZOh2uyUa0Pbi_qgSagoZCeV8saWUF3NkVz49t9ORxcEZViK_RHhwvHnoMM8FqSE0tYpfXf2tmhpdhYiKd9eWNI8wrEGFvJ98Ybf7dhvxmaZMiFxgoD_jr-7olAhjpLczVlgUyF3z1EPxBedOevmX6q0Awyp4Qo_z9=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhYtJ3JUt0bXXw-mWTB3ysW7rUZOh2uyUa0Pbi_qgSagoZCeV8saWUF3NkVz49t9ORxcEZViK_RHhwvHnoMM8FqSE0tYpfXf2tmhpdhYiKd9eWNI8wrEGFvJ98Ybf7dhvxmaZMiFxgoD_jr-7olAhjpLczVlgUyF3z1EPxBedOevmX6q0Awyp4Qo_z9=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Used the handwheel to screw the lift screw out after removing the retaining rings.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhcGCHkhOBIO4dmdIb5_DDJKYQlh6o7JN7tF_z-nlx4DWwWjEMMtnaJlDU0rz3K7WUtRXMLPQrPmWfhpQSA1F6RJNGSuUUnYjVNj94eVKio4neYhQP_yFNUnE2dV9eNpZ4Z7hbYpNMQx1lwqGsrbq4aS8X32x5MbR0RMKvsSygUOlnkg1CAz5MhSfG4=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhcGCHkhOBIO4dmdIb5_DDJKYQlh6o7JN7tF_z-nlx4DWwWjEMMtnaJlDU0rz3K7WUtRXMLPQrPmWfhpQSA1F6RJNGSuUUnYjVNj94eVKio4neYhQP_yFNUnE2dV9eNpZ4Z7hbYpNMQx1lwqGsrbq4aS8X32x5MbR0RMKvsSygUOlnkg1CAz5MhSfG4=s320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Current state of disassembly. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />Obviously a lot left to do on this one. <div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Buy a 3-jaw external puller and pull pulleys off</li><li>Buy an internal slide hammer puller, or make something equivalent, to pull the arbor bearings and motor bearings out. The bearings are old, and while they aren't in horrible shape, I might as well replace them while everything is apart. </li><li>Buy replacement pulleys and key stock. I'm going to buy some machined steel pulleys from in-line industries; they should be better balanced and lost longer than cast iron/zinc ones. I already have a link belt, which are supposedly the best. </li><li>Buy replacement bearings. I'll probably buy some mid-high quality ones because replacing them is such a pain. I have a hydraulic press, so installing them shouldn't be too bad. </li><li>Buy replacement fasteners. Most of the old ones are too rusty to save, though I'll attempt it. </li><li>Finish disassembly</li><ul><li>Make sure to mark the motor casing and ends so that I reassemble it in same orientation. </li></ul><li>Clean dust, paint, grime, etc. off all of the parts. Scotchbrite and WD-40. </li><li>I may need to flatten the arbor face if it's rough/not flat. Luckily, I have a mini-lathe, which will make that easy. </li><li>Use Evaporust on everything to remove the rust. </li><li>Spray CRC corrosion inhibitor on almost everything to prevent it from re-rusting. A lot of people use "T9 Boeshield", but I already have the CRC from a project a long time ago, so I'll just use that. </li><li>The paint on the motor and box is in decent shape. I'll need to derust and touch up a few spots, but I shouldn't need to do any repainting. </li><li>The side of the box with the bevel screw-wheel mount bows out due to the force of the bevel screw, so I'm going to reinforce it with some 1/2" plywood. </li><li>Reassemble everything. </li><ul><li>The manual lists things that need oiling, so I'll do that while I'm reassembling it. Some people suggest using paraffin wax or dry lube instead because they tend to collect less dust. </li><li>The wings are slightly bowed, but <a href="https://youtu.be/UR072jTYx-A " target="_blank">this video</a> shows a good process for getting them level with the center top. </li><li>If there's not enough clearance in the trunion mount bolt-holes to get the blade aligned, I'll buy the in-line industries PALS system, which supposedly makes alignment easy. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zg5MSu64yA4" target="_blank">This video</a> is pretty good for regular alignment. </li></ul><li>Apply johnsons paste wax to the top. The CRC coating is a little gummy (the T9 stuff is too), and the paste wax will make the top slippery, while providing additional protection. </li><li>3D print insert plates, including a zero clearance one with holes for a splitter behind the blade. </li></ul><div>I'm planning to replace the fence eventually. I'll do a big write up on that later, but the short of it is that I didn't find any table saw fences that I like or that were reasonably priced. So I'll leave you with this teaser: </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiXU6vxq3kgmp6v0Gs7-Lc1RJE9GzU6WjXSSbwq-xkMmuxnqpS9XIHxP6plckkszhvynbYaXIQbUF0Avztkjf3rQUkIJHv337NFihK4pUizEsdGeaNkQkQaRDf5OSgMkwiPcYXqzqvw3ONNg8Go1GBVddHf3-JSvdNbT2DERYze0SAorbU7JvL0F87x=s1530" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="1530" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiXU6vxq3kgmp6v0Gs7-Lc1RJE9GzU6WjXSSbwq-xkMmuxnqpS9XIHxP6plckkszhvynbYaXIQbUF0Avztkjf3rQUkIJHv337NFihK4pUizEsdGeaNkQkQaRDf5OSgMkwiPcYXqzqvw3ONNg8Go1GBVddHf3-JSvdNbT2DERYze0SAorbU7JvL0F87x=w400-h153" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Like some of my previous teasers, this may take a long time to come to fruition, if it ever does...</div></div></div><br />Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-20208580892449577102021-12-30T17:05:00.004-05:002021-12-30T17:11:08.723-05:00Workbench, part 3<p>Workbench progress.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiC4fKx3-1bdqKXZqp7EAoV60OldfICIFucPtY82FQmatP7dS4sXqZmYjle9FEBdgUqNrs-2ldKRIFEOuJa-_w2SlvioS5re0LdHF69G56GmZyQ4CQnuornCco0c2yFx-1c3RZdUQvULx3HAHSOKcz51nIb1__qAnFkO3KFQur_t7mloRPwfiOGas0d=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiC4fKx3-1bdqKXZqp7EAoV60OldfICIFucPtY82FQmatP7dS4sXqZmYjle9FEBdgUqNrs-2ldKRIFEOuJa-_w2SlvioS5re0LdHF69G56GmZyQ4CQnuornCco0c2yFx-1c3RZdUQvULx3HAHSOKcz51nIb1__qAnFkO3KFQur_t7mloRPwfiOGas0d=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pocket hole screwing + gluing the table saw box on.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Those are Wen 4" pocket hole clamps. They just barely fit 2x4 pocket holes edge on like that. They help keep the 2x4s aligned while driving in the pocket hole screws. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjIB0P5AhV_wqbjFL7Ex0MZL2Z9EH14F6yUmDNHp1m7S8-HQca6yhU5bd9ING9oJv-u5OYziM-5-3yQmMD8uv6h6cKAEGOO_RVUZQRjDYrw3WPN85ECMQUMeVlkUzDf8Qzbk3UoRawi-1EkKfyIWy35dq-2-MexCaFRiQFt2uPvReNOI_dHwnwxhNTi=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjIB0P5AhV_wqbjFL7Ex0MZL2Z9EH14F6yUmDNHp1m7S8-HQca6yhU5bd9ING9oJv-u5OYziM-5-3yQmMD8uv6h6cKAEGOO_RVUZQRjDYrw3WPN85ECMQUMeVlkUzDf8Qzbk3UoRawi-1EkKfyIWy35dq-2-MexCaFRiQFt2uPvReNOI_dHwnwxhNTi=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding edge banding to the shelves. Tiny $12 palm-sized iron works perfectly.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEihAP6n6qHDQTVCSTcJ5mCmOHnpb6mNiu2hwHpSmkf_0Ro8I5txHFX5hMDdVnt8Z49LbOreeuHcIQtJ_ywEtlC2K7VnuhPJMkw06-AS0No5oohnQH4SUJqPcDA0YpDLxZJ6fOoUpro98tqXpPSSB3YnKAtX9BfKUZqTPj8EJaQhKVEe0tiRgdhErVuA=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEihAP6n6qHDQTVCSTcJ5mCmOHnpb6mNiu2hwHpSmkf_0Ro8I5txHFX5hMDdVnt8Z49LbOreeuHcIQtJ_ywEtlC2K7VnuhPJMkw06-AS0No5oohnQH4SUJqPcDA0YpDLxZJ6fOoUpro98tqXpPSSB3YnKAtX9BfKUZqTPj8EJaQhKVEe0tiRgdhErVuA=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Needed some edge band trimmers, so printing those while I put the edge banding on</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHc5TuVb3NF1VSI1C7dsDzyVJtH-E0Mk7RfUHHVJ4f9s2rMitKwiMeuOCzOoIQ5Lnc0FrBEV0tU0NmzJMdRUaXde3unPJ8LpQtt-4nu2pqda7X9kOltXCdmL9GBb83N8CCEU8qALkwOASDkd-HTYPRyvk8LZjjd78Kwn8LIbB7DtZZVYshJzqnFv1q=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHc5TuVb3NF1VSI1C7dsDzyVJtH-E0Mk7RfUHHVJ4f9s2rMitKwiMeuOCzOoIQ5Lnc0FrBEV0tU0NmzJMdRUaXde3unPJ8LpQtt-4nu2pqda7X9kOltXCdmL9GBb83N8CCEU8qALkwOASDkd-HTYPRyvk8LZjjd78Kwn8LIbB7DtZZVYshJzqnFv1q=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The edge band trimmers use M3 melt in inserts<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Also did some of the M3 melt in inserts for CubeXY. Yes, that's still going to be a thing...eventually. Got to use one of the melt in insert soldering iron tips I turned awhile back. <div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEitDjBU37MtkKaTDQF2Yuez0gsi6meyNIOJtbyT0caVDemclBinVyGLTFXRPlpENV70zM74WS50T7y9fab9ySViw3DqZhPxHi2o5RIbjAR3OLs9oy3dP8NB_sl_nCSWjZ5LzwjUAD15ahRz0_YHmUtJ56fJibNhjOerzD3ftLVWCAX12kXDUfbZw53H=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEitDjBU37MtkKaTDQF2Yuez0gsi6meyNIOJtbyT0caVDemclBinVyGLTFXRPlpENV70zM74WS50T7y9fab9ySViw3DqZhPxHi2o5RIbjAR3OLs9oy3dP8NB_sl_nCSWjZ5LzwjUAD15ahRz0_YHmUtJ56fJibNhjOerzD3ftLVWCAX12kXDUfbZw53H=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These work great. Found them on thingiverse.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Edge banding done, time to stain:</div><div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhT5fg6_6keB-9nyQ1nZOScAVY4_W1N3rr-wCbFKTB_WZqwy23LQThKIxZR77TmsFmb25yOfE8Iwc6Vo16BELsPSy3lKB-UHMOy78EIdj9xynzXFeCXGIqRQjEql1LFwcvr6dLcSgqAOmNkIcdkTVQ_TFODFhlDMu-AE2HVslOtRPURMQJddGj1w59q=s4608"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhT5fg6_6keB-9nyQ1nZOScAVY4_W1N3rr-wCbFKTB_WZqwy23LQThKIxZR77TmsFmb25yOfE8Iwc6Vo16BELsPSy3lKB-UHMOy78EIdj9xynzXFeCXGIqRQjEql1LFwcvr6dLcSgqAOmNkIcdkTVQ_TFODFhlDMu-AE2HVslOtRPURMQJddGj1w59q=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjU6WruzlB09AhnSluOThGlCQlGgjgq-uXQ8DT9rewPoS5He_gTbdSlSJ2bFL9URHo1eCZL0ucoBm6XUIlRr26hNljkqn50MGRW9ICWQfmrPjqjn_lsHPUrLC5rtmWlhMandIXll6c-B2GE_rIkT_C2NPU9EfvQRoAWTAi_Kf0MRyaCISgo_8yyV3EF=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjU6WruzlB09AhnSluOThGlCQlGgjgq-uXQ8DT9rewPoS5He_gTbdSlSJ2bFL9URHo1eCZL0ucoBm6XUIlRr26hNljkqn50MGRW9ICWQfmrPjqjn_lsHPUrLC5rtmWlhMandIXll6c-B2GE_rIkT_C2NPU9EfvQRoAWTAi_Kf0MRyaCISgo_8yyV3EF=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Factory edge=bad</td></tr></tbody></table><p>I sanded them with 220 grit, wiped the dust off, cleaned them with mineral spirits, and then sealed them with stain primer. I stained the edges (banding) of the table saw shelf golden oak, but didn't bother staining the rest of it since it won't be visible. I stained the router shelf "golden pecan", however, it came out a lot redder than I was expecting. Lessons learned: The Varathane "premium" stain colors are NOT the same as the "classic" stain colors. The classic golden pecan doesn't have much red in it and is what I used for the base shelves. The premium golden pecan is actually very close to the classic "Ipswich Pine". Meh, luckily it's a workbench, and I'm already mixing a ton of wood tones, so it doesn't really matter. The edge banding didn't take the stain as much as the plywood. Also, factory edges, while straight, need to be cleaned up because the stain will accent the underlying grain.</p><p>While I had the printer going, I decided to use up some old shitty (Eryone brand, bleh) filament I had and print some wood working tools. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiWilvNZHXnOIUb2hIcA6AkJ80ob7cks7yEX46Q4XW4kY4SzHN0-Sk27CPEdmuQ6qSrQn4GuqfEATMSS1zeidCK3Fe8nFf81ZcSrzgt-hJwrPuIetXMF8Uz-dz41ke2XDyvVhndAEPPdpRUYan8VXtcwOhDwwx_8qOOrvzXxljtf6CgJuRFzXQQy1v6=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiWilvNZHXnOIUb2hIcA6AkJ80ob7cks7yEX46Q4XW4kY4SzHN0-Sk27CPEdmuQ6qSrQn4GuqfEATMSS1zeidCK3Fe8nFf81ZcSrzgt-hJwrPuIetXMF8Uz-dz41ke2XDyvVhndAEPPdpRUYan8VXtcwOhDwwx_8qOOrvzXxljtf6CgJuRFzXQQy1v6=s320" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjCrQFrir7t6Td22Bzxk4Si0Dmj5bnufHrbZaNZiPl75A1I0boOUsC95-ry74t7jfa93q27QC9usm3zeJWuMtify2bVdMrp2JWqeZW5cHUzd-kNzEyEIqsUj_frhhN0BWKlvsFhQTvkeEdT8oHZighOy9DXSzbUsVSqbuPZyLVeAdbE_7LvanloCY4Q=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjCrQFrir7t6Td22Bzxk4Si0Dmj5bnufHrbZaNZiPl75A1I0boOUsC95-ry74t7jfa93q27QC9usm3zeJWuMtify2bVdMrp2JWqeZW5cHUzd-kNzEyEIqsUj_frhhN0BWKlvsFhQTvkeEdT8oHZighOy9DXSzbUsVSqbuPZyLVeAdbE_7LvanloCY4Q=s320" width="240" /></a></div><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj7cL9JVXrSlJAcmVdssQe-XBPEDT0UvoEBaBnVOSQIpPayl_gFj0qfIr51q4vx2H0eBbSIkQXQkV21UUGq2j-TaX5_aNsF5aumn99QtgCBO9vO0btkXtxEPTzcD4qfM2YbnzWyRD9eHLHWmCgE7qKqDfj0CzrBgLyxKo9jSjIARnAJNg7LGgQKHSTD=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj7cL9JVXrSlJAcmVdssQe-XBPEDT0UvoEBaBnVOSQIpPayl_gFj0qfIr51q4vx2H0eBbSIkQXQkV21UUGq2j-TaX5_aNsF5aumn99QtgCBO9vO0btkXtxEPTzcD4qfM2YbnzWyRD9eHLHWmCgE7qKqDfj0CzrBgLyxKo9jSjIARnAJNg7LGgQKHSTD=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">♫ Part of a marking gauge, two mini sanding blocks,<br />and a set of center finding of guides ♫ (3rd day of Xmas)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEholxscxgJwXIMNiZMCzQYRTGyEl_nBsgoju9i0RSy9geUIc1KyiW_UaDMY9cHTDBc5dqt-aCyCP3pPE9zcvxSSeRfYuacrDLKJ7AT7lVWBfVGz8PBDkLZN-2BjznMoghEGR4Z3NiDH6Cxjgb2cSupYa-fXn8d_NEBOtwXluSJlO4SNHCh0BKyPBngH=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEholxscxgJwXIMNiZMCzQYRTGyEl_nBsgoju9i0RSy9geUIc1KyiW_UaDMY9cHTDBc5dqt-aCyCP3pPE9zcvxSSeRfYuacrDLKJ7AT7lVWBfVGz8PBDkLZN-2BjznMoghEGR4Z3NiDH6Cxjgb2cSupYa-fXn8d_NEBOtwXluSJlO4SNHCh0BKyPBngH=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjA82Yqaf7Y27ZlK1fO8BNog5VOJ2hMGpOnz9exlGzSpkOJbq07wHn3VIekZi9pfRyxk-caEOWJj70rnVbW1GnwglRGFWHEPFd79oqjLADTDtx0k83jjOsh-1EEfyXANZM8hmOzSoSluwwAPsH1vQeSbNlHNcwW5Z_kUbhp25-B1f6EEsi4CoefPyUt=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjA82Yqaf7Y27ZlK1fO8BNog5VOJ2hMGpOnz9exlGzSpkOJbq07wHn3VIekZi9pfRyxk-caEOWJj70rnVbW1GnwglRGFWHEPFd79oqjLADTDtx0k83jjOsh-1EEfyXANZM8hmOzSoSluwwAPsH1vQeSbNlHNcwW5Z_kUbhp25-B1f6EEsi4CoefPyUt=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right angle clamp blocks, printed two sets ~800g</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Time to install the table saw shelf:<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjvXMQaPon0913-fCtdfjNGUVPCdoo35x5rWFhRxFreVKxXOOIJhljEvs53GcdOmBrAYLXtSbXnkJ_Jfq--QBYh5M3UqKyjsl9zmqqvdbOcyZ-piW_pyOXNJ00tINa4OcrRuoWyflssfoY__ykBICe_ZjedODy-l5ihzyQHxvNtXWvriEmqMEY89BrN=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjvXMQaPon0913-fCtdfjNGUVPCdoo35x5rWFhRxFreVKxXOOIJhljEvs53GcdOmBrAYLXtSbXnkJ_Jfq--QBYh5M3UqKyjsl9zmqqvdbOcyZ-piW_pyOXNJ00tINa4OcrRuoWyflssfoY__ykBICe_ZjedODy-l5ihzyQHxvNtXWvriEmqMEY89BrN=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screwed on the table saw vacuum adapter</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhtfAyOzD4UgDcWfuq28H8M5EndMS56bwOCFaVDsxd4vls9doJrC8Hg0dKNeojF9YJsowsTfMIV_6xTpq59xp82Sk8w9MafHU7X5T8Rplv6VXWLrqH5mE-jPxIvLjc-jk7duG5he35GJKpHQeoBmHgqDEXmuV_L7tbiXOzZ4Q27HxBytgl1EowQDbw8=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhtfAyOzD4UgDcWfuq28H8M5EndMS56bwOCFaVDsxd4vls9doJrC8Hg0dKNeojF9YJsowsTfMIV_6xTpq59xp82Sk8w9MafHU7X5T8Rplv6VXWLrqH5mE-jPxIvLjc-jk7duG5he35GJKpHQeoBmHgqDEXmuV_L7tbiXOzZ4Q27HxBytgl1EowQDbw8=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clamped, then screwed down the shelf.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPnRG6YUjP11XskwmYGwL5KSFPH6ssdqJx8Is4qJvfWhwNWg7YttxazhzxmQhd2Ck-QRjhuNVKsVnECPWCfKHFap3dXLaSIBj4KbYwnBmtGW6x_DFezE3gOZet2DzUp0I1PmIXClyOyTX1dthqmKUBuBIGsogHi_JCMDwe0nTPXsMJBRxX2DkRt0jr=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPnRG6YUjP11XskwmYGwL5KSFPH6ssdqJx8Is4qJvfWhwNWg7YttxazhzxmQhd2Ck-QRjhuNVKsVnECPWCfKHFap3dXLaSIBj4KbYwnBmtGW6x_DFezE3gOZet2DzUp0I1PmIXClyOyTX1dthqmKUBuBIGsogHi_JCMDwe0nTPXsMJBRxX2DkRt0jr=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks good, very rigid</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>I won't be able to see the top surface, so I didn't bother filling in the screw holes. I installed the router shelf next: </div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgmMz78qkSbjcSuS4HU9f8mSVsmJNYYlaEvaQdr2AqU1azbC9MBL62xLM5dpceTBpkB_pQh7FrQJF4UapKIwwTAxkuVztzrIktA23kxvzCh3PmbFu_RvPQl7CZCRXDlowCcBMG7oI5MVOk4sDkygZDaC3jGgIPymtcph2P8IfBye0TNvegFWLmHJ4D7=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgmMz78qkSbjcSuS4HU9f8mSVsmJNYYlaEvaQdr2AqU1azbC9MBL62xLM5dpceTBpkB_pQh7FrQJF4UapKIwwTAxkuVztzrIktA23kxvzCh3PmbFu_RvPQl7CZCRXDlowCcBMG7oI5MVOk4sDkygZDaC3jGgIPymtcph2P8IfBye0TNvegFWLmHJ4D7=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEidDbJfFuSJQvgNxRRwblD_kq8mGDgBD7VjW6eeYRsnvBoy7MK1IAd-b0IkocrSvxvDe6FkgwXTDReZluyqYyjFhtxRt1G9dWrdgiE9sISbvMP4dorRcLxt3t9IGNDzzsoKD1nD45mPap6mRmvtKJdBvATm3jnaDQCzQnuwoOO1aM-mBItF_Vrxj03p=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEidDbJfFuSJQvgNxRRwblD_kq8mGDgBD7VjW6eeYRsnvBoy7MK1IAd-b0IkocrSvxvDe6FkgwXTDReZluyqYyjFhtxRt1G9dWrdgiE9sISbvMP4dorRcLxt3t9IGNDzzsoKD1nD45mPap6mRmvtKJdBvATm3jnaDQCzQnuwoOO1aM-mBItF_Vrxj03p=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjydfvlx4rHGjqZDGkNPbjCw1XLrCyAonLafafKqbJDo5yTUWjFA17vqH7TLMZhj1o-3WaZm6koNSOWs_dzUdOgCDaovzLxcyYQG97duKuL8Knt6r3isXY8vEDGl7cOlurg44kMcFQqcWCqwvO8Ht4v-nAXDFzj65PlZdDu3EJtjTeZURsuREHu8wC6=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjydfvlx4rHGjqZDGkNPbjCw1XLrCyAonLafafKqbJDo5yTUWjFA17vqH7TLMZhj1o-3WaZm6koNSOWs_dzUdOgCDaovzLxcyYQG97duKuL8Knt6r3isXY8vEDGl7cOlurg44kMcFQqcWCqwvO8Ht4v-nAXDFzj65PlZdDu3EJtjTeZURsuREHu8wC6=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left side of shelf. Center: The Mini-Motivator </td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div>This was tricky. I drilled (normal sized, not the "HD" ones) pocket holes in the bottom of the left side of the shelf to screw to the left vertical 2x4s. There's a 3/16" thick spacer that has to go on the right side between the shelf and the horizontal 2x4, which I made by gluing together strips of 1/8" and 1/16" plywood. That shim is necessary because the left bandsaw pivot bearings mount to the top of that horizontal 2x4, and they need to be at a specific height. I used glue in all of the joints and used a ton of clamps to hold everything in place while I drove in the pocket hole screws. Leveling the shelf required a lot of unclamp-shift something-clamp-check level operations. Weirdly, while I was doing that, I realized that the shelf couldn't be clamped flush to the horizontal 2x4 in order to be level. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgJY0RNYRR9l-EBdOHIo4KwTAlrwdv8a1koYoIGebnEBAV1iuTDIryvNQwLBtoGMeCa2q7J42WG4DlNFpAARsgZBhCTvJ-ruES5m4UyxxgWEXSF6jVk26bSA93c80ojhsQlFTT-ZIplyFNXy51Ze3BtZyjHhg3TDHMv8cwRSu6XixEcA8dXUHMkNIjq=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgJY0RNYRR9l-EBdOHIo4KwTAlrwdv8a1koYoIGebnEBAV1iuTDIryvNQwLBtoGMeCa2q7J42WG4DlNFpAARsgZBhCTvJ-ruES5m4UyxxgWEXSF6jVk26bSA93c80ojhsQlFTT-ZIplyFNXy51Ze3BtZyjHhg3TDHMv8cwRSu6XixEcA8dXUHMkNIjq=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uh-oh...the shim needed shims.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>The shelf ended up needing to be spaced about 1/16" lower at the back than the front. It was then that I checked level of the top of the horizontal 2x4: it was slanted. Hmm... re-measuring the back vertical 2x4 it was resting on showed that it was about 1/32" too long. Then I checked the CAD. Ugh, that same 2x4 was 1/32" too long. Didn't notice because it was such a small interference. 1/32+1/32 ... there's my extra 1/16". By this time, it was too late to fix because I'd already screwed it all together and the glue had partially set. So I used the handheld belt sander to sand down the top of the horizontal 2x4. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjQig-EnERAT_NWEC-AJoeuUvKLUpCWEwYGN5YGNZb8KEGSPAhqwMJkF2uctVxy7KTcIueEsVX7j8OhJOTF-XvTajZ2Py9p4igmY0Z3MngpWiIdDTFRO05gxtAXij1bAwCzKGqpdIu6xfMCUCHkdoHzYcO-gUKlM9DL8PK6wI9njsPXlWVzHVjR93m8=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjQig-EnERAT_NWEC-AJoeuUvKLUpCWEwYGN5YGNZb8KEGSPAhqwMJkF2uctVxy7KTcIueEsVX7j8OhJOTF-XvTajZ2Py9p4igmY0Z3MngpWiIdDTFRO05gxtAXij1bAwCzKGqpdIu6xfMCUCHkdoHzYcO-gUKlM9DL8PK6wI9njsPXlWVzHVjR93m8=s320" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgREiMnWq6KbQDzUIQSc3Cch-S-yKJaqsjOcDyMj3d9QaAVgeNH1xPmjVK84QQfgvCy_KDhY3fOuUYRK302Q8W4f7cV_iZ-uvN-kUPA8kKGJaatrH_R5EYCL4z8SVQ_LsGKdIDUXK54VOPyhmhPD_-VDc6aptrXij0euTTDYw6UkmtOgLx-hPAJ0Jxx=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgREiMnWq6KbQDzUIQSc3Cch-S-yKJaqsjOcDyMj3d9QaAVgeNH1xPmjVK84QQfgvCy_KDhY3fOuUYRK302Q8W4f7cV_iZ-uvN-kUPA8kKGJaatrH_R5EYCL4z8SVQ_LsGKdIDUXK54VOPyhmhPD_-VDc6aptrXij0euTTDYw6UkmtOgLx-hPAJ0Jxx=s320" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>Now it reads level. </div><div><br /></div><div>I also screwed on a few more horizontal 2x4s. These required a bit of fancy clamping, but all the joints came out good. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgo-ld_dPIrW4sG1SJ_1bAsa2Clz5bRYu9YXVDZvUNBJNMX5YlwKDlR9TXsZOk9sVoWWTB2tXNWUwD-zyPCx0iLARCWnL_UA_LUJBbAJeQyQpfdPEM42HyldXVguggU39qVvl5fzP6mR7_rO2RHkW4py5X4vqlqc0YOn5xx0zm3cqqWO072VqlcD2NE=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgo-ld_dPIrW4sG1SJ_1bAsa2Clz5bRYu9YXVDZvUNBJNMX5YlwKDlR9TXsZOk9sVoWWTB2tXNWUwD-zyPCx0iLARCWnL_UA_LUJBbAJeQyQpfdPEM42HyldXVguggU39qVvl5fzP6mR7_rO2RHkW4py5X4vqlqc0YOn5xx0zm3cqqWO072VqlcD2NE=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A bunch of the horizontal 2x4s need notches cut in them. Some need to be re-sawn, which I'll need the table saw for, so I'm going to start refurbing that soon. </div></div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-27972311509290201242021-12-26T18:22:00.007-05:002021-12-26T18:33:40.171-05:00Workbench, part 2<p> Made a lot of progress on the workbench. </p><p>I need to notch one of the long side 2x4's for the bandsaw to be able to rotate down. The only way to avoid this would have been to make the workbench surface height taller, but I already designed it to be as tall as I wanted to be. So...notch it is, and I decided to try to use the reciprocating saw for this.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg8IgDP2RKrIzUU4jTzUkV9bbWJeUJ3qGKjzgfn9QP_3SBGlKGGbCWXwNWLf8k7wwzwebra4Spz9KiR5VVXhZdKZ1DLzhvkZT4Rf-UYzposEzgSX9oaSxBqkQ-Jj6MRA3L_nYF2IFI4147N8lVQVMInbwLOIMzDKnD7Wcw-LL_6d7x3nfky6Pzo1m9c=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg8IgDP2RKrIzUU4jTzUkV9bbWJeUJ3qGKjzgfn9QP_3SBGlKGGbCWXwNWLf8k7wwzwebra4Spz9KiR5VVXhZdKZ1DLzhvkZT4Rf-UYzposEzgSX9oaSxBqkQ-Jj6MRA3L_nYF2IFI4147N8lVQVMInbwLOIMzDKnD7Wcw-LL_6d7x3nfky6Pzo1m9c=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a mess...super uneven, too</td></tr></tbody></table><br />The beam is too long to make the notch on a table saw with a dado blade, and it was already installed anyways. You can also make notches with a circular saw by making a comb, then using a chisel to knock out the teeth, but there isn't really enough surface area here to safely hold a circular saw edge-on. Turns out the right way to make notches like this is to make a comb with a hand saw, then knock out the teeth with a chisel. Eh, oh well. Gotta clean it up and reinforce it: <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjzvBwmuj_ftd-8A-CvSce5dxDLjqquB7SwULlrqod84caGxTVxG7k2kS4NLjM-3DLUlfpP1wKtfKM4iAAecrkrh6YRTeskyuDpuXe6PUlO6HR6Tixc4eumr8__NOxXadkbSnMU65lYICUNqoONl9QzZgw17e2l8bW6ghvlgrEgQ1Uy5wKhJwE8OGNc=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjzvBwmuj_ftd-8A-CvSce5dxDLjqquB7SwULlrqod84caGxTVxG7k2kS4NLjM-3DLUlfpP1wKtfKM4iAAecrkrh6YRTeskyuDpuXe6PUlO6HR6Tixc4eumr8__NOxXadkbSnMU65lYICUNqoONl9QzZgw17e2l8bW6ghvlgrEgQ1Uy5wKhJwE8OGNc=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of wood filler. Also a thick steel strap on the inside. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiiBybHpUvGENZmLYltgoHDfU-yctESnsZgj2itisfVV8ZywtxOZ5tMItpDOtMqCt0SAvlVD5leQA9-moppWXe6J6P9Pt_GNgmKJT9QYF7Aa-kUr5plOHl9T1Dzs-dX0HwMxh8Qhh-ch7NaZOqO7dcNMsBlzVzC2GvfDJhWUarqnp2919fkl0C82d3G=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiiBybHpUvGENZmLYltgoHDfU-yctESnsZgj2itisfVV8ZywtxOZ5tMItpDOtMqCt0SAvlVD5leQA9-moppWXe6J6P9Pt_GNgmKJT9QYF7Aa-kUr5plOHl9T1Dzs-dX0HwMxh8Qhh-ch7NaZOqO7dcNMsBlzVzC2GvfDJhWUarqnp2919fkl0C82d3G=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks slightly less than bad after sanding and staining the wood filler. </td></tr></tbody></table><p>Next step was installing all of the base shelves.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjZ_iuJ-uZ9NpbXI4HH9xjZ9t2pJGbb2OUuJYXth6XcB6fu6GZzZQJFPUeevR1a0quKXV6fTKXMduYa8cOi2UA5GfOd86vBIkj8jgJhk54Ttnlht3ritSPWKIuAOn3GtCJS_kYZuDp81R2g5TevW9-BlDobxXmYa9628xMb1GN7IAG1ETOlKFQ6JMYG=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjZ_iuJ-uZ9NpbXI4HH9xjZ9t2pJGbb2OUuJYXth6XcB6fu6GZzZQJFPUeevR1a0quKXV6fTKXMduYa8cOi2UA5GfOd86vBIkj8jgJhk54Ttnlht3ritSPWKIuAOn3GtCJS_kYZuDp81R2g5TevW9-BlDobxXmYa9628xMb1GN7IAG1ETOlKFQ6JMYG=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shelves stained and screwed in</td></tr></tbody></table><br />The band saw notch wood filler staining mess made me want to try to get the wood filler color to match better. I bought about 12 of little samples of varathane oil based stain. The DAP "premium" wood filler I have says to mix the stain in before applying the wood filler, so I tried that, but the results weren't very good.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjViPP5Fx1Wkdl3_nG50Vewd-TsgAsZtTC4OSBEci0X8DQdIwSeSVG3OTMiZ5zjNItzxoQ25kSCNLYL4qc5KEgkJ6tm6AZaeBcPHWgzwKNQeCbhR8rkVDTHBk-CeBl0l7eP73986igWkd4IVCXofAUjjNw7CLpTpoguBJpN71KdurSSphDGMixKpuRQ=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjViPP5Fx1Wkdl3_nG50Vewd-TsgAsZtTC4OSBEci0X8DQdIwSeSVG3OTMiZ5zjNItzxoQ25kSCNLYL4qc5KEgkJ6tm6AZaeBcPHWgzwKNQeCbhR8rkVDTHBk-CeBl0l7eP73986igWkd4IVCXofAUjjNw7CLpTpoguBJpN71KdurSSphDGMixKpuRQ=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The amount of stain necessary to darken the filler, even if using really dark stain, is so much that the filler ends up being runny. I also tried some test hole fills with staining <i>after</i> applying the wood filler, didn't really notice an appreciable difference, and it was easier to stain after applying. I had to use a stain quite a few shades darker than the surrounding wood, though, and because the filler is white, no matter what you do, the stained filler always looks sort of "pastel". </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiwo2OOiagl-cScx83OdZsp-QebrbF-5XMmYodClLhp43nnZYZXbJx08VgtzGuDaCFZ9Egp_xKCRfnz2EntKxsV7FzMYXPrE-2WyHNd4wRbW75mixt0jBlg9sRAo-vwdPcITxOlvZvroN1h8zh7CTUJ250h3TEF_bGMRLzMvCsRrDAcRYidpjGdcrrP=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiwo2OOiagl-cScx83OdZsp-QebrbF-5XMmYodClLhp43nnZYZXbJx08VgtzGuDaCFZ9Egp_xKCRfnz2EntKxsV7FzMYXPrE-2WyHNd4wRbW75mixt0jBlg9sRAo-vwdPcITxOlvZvroN1h8zh7CTUJ250h3TEF_bGMRLzMvCsRrDAcRYidpjGdcrrP=w150-h200" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi3lEARAATsNL9iAQf-8L6jvMjnJ0dkJbLKGY-a0hewKi06q6xUzJsHXcMGod1upbWYs9utvddtR8qPn1beIs8_WzkUcQxZkz50QRMyJ41nvJFE2d7w0qG4Vt5ndnHUkB1Xn7WYthDj8fL8MZTUbNmh-BSjBcH_jaEXvo12_64cMgOCf_zBNqu6-Yqh=s3550" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3550" data-original-width="2363" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi3lEARAATsNL9iAQf-8L6jvMjnJ0dkJbLKGY-a0hewKi06q6xUzJsHXcMGod1upbWYs9utvddtR8qPn1beIs8_WzkUcQxZkz50QRMyJ41nvJFE2d7w0qG4Vt5ndnHUkB1Xn7WYthDj8fL8MZTUbNmh-BSjBcH_jaEXvo12_64cMgOCf_zBNqu6-Yqh=w133-h200" width="133" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhqCZvCR5t51Whmsjk0ywSDbmk_Fub4qSyzYz8tjLU5z48s3_sPW15JPm_C3JblDDExaqUSf54wATLV2f-8Q40yDlrGQPw5XxTn6ZpgfeEw3I9uLaQnzoGW7nrK1fHLOvX-F9tQiRyg_ti1VN1otbM-UXJ5uSkwPZZiTSZwkKttm7fLY2sA6mfnSU54=s3736" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3736" data-original-width="2408" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhqCZvCR5t51Whmsjk0ywSDbmk_Fub4qSyzYz8tjLU5z48s3_sPW15JPm_C3JblDDExaqUSf54wATLV2f-8Q40yDlrGQPw5XxTn6ZpgfeEw3I9uLaQnzoGW7nrK1fHLOvX-F9tQiRyg_ti1VN1otbM-UXJ5uSkwPZZiTSZwkKttm7fLY2sA6mfnSU54=w129-h200" width="129" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Not terrible, but not great either. Wish I had taken the time to pocket hole the shelves from the bottom. Also tried filling in one of the 2x4 radius gaps a little, but didn't like the results, so didn't do it anywhere else. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Two lessons learned here: 1. Stained wood filler sucks. It's good for filling wood you will be painting, but it's not useful for professional looking final stained wood. Design future wood working projects to not need it. 2. There's a good reason why wood workers plane all of their wood. Everything ends up squarer, better tolerances, fewer gaps, etc. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Luckily this is a garage workbench, so looks don't really matter. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Next, I spaced the base off the floor and leveled it. By leveling the base, I can use a level to level the horizontal 2x4 beams and make sure the vertical 2x4 beams are straight up. My garage, like most garages, has a slight slope towards the door to help water drain out if it ever floods, so I compensated for that. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_ziOakEeLdH65WhqAEjcPjHDc7Ft3HooSCQms59A2BzIbFIz7f2QU7EEkWc6jwQqpt-vUpHha4AqR9gf4WWJdsERSELbFUek1FOqz85nYXXJbMVGzkGpqQz29S7KY9bZgmQWnQz7EibAEYZ6Yg6f600TSdL7y8Eyl-WgyqsGKkUFq6XkQGX3zCuz0=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_ziOakEeLdH65WhqAEjcPjHDc7Ft3HooSCQms59A2BzIbFIz7f2QU7EEkWc6jwQqpt-vUpHha4AqR9gf4WWJdsERSELbFUek1FOqz85nYXXJbMVGzkGpqQz29S7KY9bZgmQWnQz7EibAEYZ6Yg6f600TSdL7y8Eyl-WgyqsGKkUFq6XkQGX3zCuz0=w320-h240" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then I started cutting all of the vertical and horizontal 2x4s with my miter saw. Regularly got better than 1/32" accuracy on length, though I noticed some of the 2x4s were up to 1/8" oversized in a dimension (1-5/8 vs 1-1/2 and/or 3-5/8 vs 3-1/2)...should make putting this together interesting. </div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgAkxcJ7ZgecBabW5z5z4p4DHS1lLdL3o3r3rRvsB2d5KfZKHBj-bJfQ5WxweTDreyNbJ7EZ34kzMkS4Vq8LuSCI8FO4VdQdSEeidwaQhM12mETPkBfCbLSsC8v8q7vZBUvTxwn-uNM6zIKPKq-kPxocV-TTJXNyClDHbQGjY8qAQ4WioOb-BkRho0Q=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgAkxcJ7ZgecBabW5z5z4p4DHS1lLdL3o3r3rRvsB2d5KfZKHBj-bJfQ5WxweTDreyNbJ7EZ34kzMkS4Vq8LuSCI8FO4VdQdSEeidwaQhM12mETPkBfCbLSsC8v8q7vZBUvTxwn-uNM6zIKPKq-kPxocV-TTJXNyClDHbQGjY8qAQ4WioOb-BkRho0Q=w240-h320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Running out of room, time to move outside</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj93ZAbOviNQh-92PuX54Zt1eWf6e3rW5M9kSCYAM266mSbTcNJx0LRNJMd3twZX2zTvqVYPGEqlGHCz0zZ1P1V3FTEWxffReTuM6HpBIpBY7e0FkSsn4_-Ya_z81DAZPz98d3avWHwo5xdRL_fu3PqRmcfVBNP6SMKD0s3P7PU-ISAFQf9lYwRdL6S=s4469" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2379" data-original-width="4469" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj93ZAbOviNQh-92PuX54Zt1eWf6e3rW5M9kSCYAM266mSbTcNJx0LRNJMd3twZX2zTvqVYPGEqlGHCz0zZ1P1V3FTEWxffReTuM6HpBIpBY7e0FkSsn4_-Ya_z81DAZPz98d3avWHwo5xdRL_fu3PqRmcfVBNP6SMKD0s3P7PU-ISAFQf9lYwRdL6S=w400-h213" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Lots of 2x4s, lots of colors, lots of saw dust:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjWAvSBRBLcB9fUAA0MOZGKGfR7nM_WhP6XHY9YkMJhE2eSMNpPuEx2Nal_Z9g1Ab5cJrNLU4mmaFoV-A8ZLpctx8baF3OFEtCzn6Vgi-dEfY21vP-tPcVt9DhEj8TxpdkA3ZXQ-UL2xX4NZSnVxgzP7cpjtHwpP5s-THku04A_sUOuSATtIocgTz9C=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjWAvSBRBLcB9fUAA0MOZGKGfR7nM_WhP6XHY9YkMJhE2eSMNpPuEx2Nal_Z9g1Ab5cJrNLU4mmaFoV-A8ZLpctx8baF3OFEtCzn6Vgi-dEfY21vP-tPcVt9DhEj8TxpdkA3ZXQ-UL2xX4NZSnVxgzP7cpjtHwpP5s-THku04A_sUOuSATtIocgTz9C=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This thing works great</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The mitered pieces will form the box under the plywood shelf that the table saw sits on. First time using a strap clamp, went really well: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjiRCmtZqx0_zn8oBz0sIx_dYNe0PNUT3hjhZUjmtVUrBZnm9KZfAAX0ue4iUloSCL_Mp-71AnHT1SQqGWLFtb1Y6n5tz91p4J-CIwR5F4l14f7dMVhTeiKZTgkUocX-wT39LbfDLHq-az1e2Rp_TULhqF97JrJ2SDOek-5WQ8S4w3QJfzKfC0J9BBz=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjiRCmtZqx0_zn8oBz0sIx_dYNe0PNUT3hjhZUjmtVUrBZnm9KZfAAX0ue4iUloSCL_Mp-71AnHT1SQqGWLFtb1Y6n5tz91p4J-CIwR5F4l14f7dMVhTeiKZTgkUocX-wT39LbfDLHq-az1e2Rp_TULhqF97JrJ2SDOek-5WQ8S4w3QJfzKfC0J9BBz=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div><br /> I started installing the vertical columns next.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzppDiCc9eJ9eAPVn006KsTi5DiRN8d2hQBBQqt6K9Q7XiI7tamKmYZvX3rN7ZrxnuPD6pHU4VDtRnZHXao8X4ifCSN-DcTJg4gPe5uhPLwo0DMDMZYC31PoWtX0SlvXUYRc37YAFveVDPCJDi8199gJiMBcbKdDf880dypbL3x39h2ozzU74BWARj=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzppDiCc9eJ9eAPVn006KsTi5DiRN8d2hQBBQqt6K9Q7XiI7tamKmYZvX3rN7ZrxnuPD6pHU4VDtRnZHXao8X4ifCSN-DcTJg4gPe5uhPLwo0DMDMZYC31PoWtX0SlvXUYRc37YAFveVDPCJDi8199gJiMBcbKdDf880dypbL3x39h2ozzU74BWARj=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So many pocket holes O.o<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Turns out pocket holes kinda suck for alignment. As the screw is driven in, it can cause the 2x4 to shift some. Ideally I could clamp them in place with a pipe/bar clamp (normal pocket hole clamps don't have enough reach for 2x4s oriented like this), but there was no way to get a clamp to these inside ones. Another problem came from not having planed/squared the base 2x4s: the vertical 2x4s wouldn't sit vertical, so even if I could clamp them, they likely would have shifted after removing the clamps. This was exacerbated by the pocket hole screws being on one side, which tended to tilt the 2x4 to that side. Thus, installing each vertical 2x4 required shimming with index cards and multiple screw - unscrew - screw cycles. Some required 1/32-1/16" wood shims instead of index cards. I used wood glue in the joints, too, to help make them stiffer. I used three pocket holes on some 2x4s; I spaced the two on one side out more and had the third centered on the other side, which helped with the tilting issue. These HD pocket hole screws (#14 x 2.5") require a lot of torque to drive in. This happened after about 40 to the T25 drive that came with the kit: </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhsXOMX4nH55_XgU4ILgLr7nWUiL3kBwi9E8zt_y6zLlgR885tKxGFPY0REStnkbpD3Bevydh6T7TMBmRcRjMZK9ViDzljFEqXfSVqr9L3ziOrO82blDTQLzgd-Fnr7DiSjv32Wfq_bymrWU2DuiGfd_hDfSu18jhCDOOu4h4CTta0dmv9JmWl4n_Be=s3289" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2216" data-original-width="3289" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhsXOMX4nH55_XgU4ILgLr7nWUiL3kBwi9E8zt_y6zLlgR885tKxGFPY0REStnkbpD3Bevydh6T7TMBmRcRjMZK9ViDzljFEqXfSVqr9L3ziOrO82blDTQLzgd-Fnr7DiSjv32Wfq_bymrWU2DuiGfd_hDfSu18jhCDOOu4h4CTta0dmv9JmWl4n_Be=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ouch</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Luckily, I had two more 6" long T25 bits, but I suspect I'll need to buy more by the time I'm done. The reason they need so much torque is the #14 part: that's a wide screw with no pilot hole. There just isn't a good way to make pilot holes for these though, because, even with a 12" long 1/8" drill bit, there isn't a good way to keep it axially aligned with the pocket hole in the other piece, and if you get the angle or location wrong, it'll pull the joint out of alignment. With a lot of patience and shimming, I was able to get them all pretty close to vertical. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Lesson learned: learn mortise and tenon joinery and use it for beams like this instead of using big pocket hole screws. Pocket hole screws might be ok for drawers/shelves, etc, but they aren't great for this application. </div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I bought some 1/2" and 3/8" dowels to make plugs for the pocket hole holes. I have a nice fine tooth handsaw, and I'll probably 3D print a miter box for it to get the angles right, but that's for later. I took a break from pocket-holery to glue (5 minute epoxy) the vacuum adapters together, which I had 3D printed out of PETG a few weeks ago. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgb1Pqmb6odK0Rrg0wM98SpK1NcJVyjQwApL69dPWcQKZ6VoLo4wk2DBxZ9KQXtMcWNCVaypHtJvF0eVQxt7VEBbfLnI7c37YI-iDD5yyYyyq7ahbUVjTbhkVlszYk6zk_isrBHTy2r0xP-IoYvzHtCV5DqIicjueHSXkxMWaXhJ_pv6jq_2gLbd-Sl=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgb1Pqmb6odK0Rrg0wM98SpK1NcJVyjQwApL69dPWcQKZ6VoLo4wk2DBxZ9KQXtMcWNCVaypHtJvF0eVQxt7VEBbfLnI7c37YI-iDD5yyYyyq7ahbUVjTbhkVlszYk6zk_isrBHTy2r0xP-IoYvzHtCV5DqIicjueHSXkxMWaXhJ_pv6jq_2gLbd-Sl=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">The big one on the right is for under the table saw (more on that in a minute). You can see where I ran out of black PETG and changed to clear PETG. The one in bottom left is for the drum sander. Not pictured is another piece for the drum sander and one for the bandsaw. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I used the router in the router table with a 3/4" bit to make notches in three of the vertical 2x4s.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjK6IQ6TnxTk-2j08Bb8QrLZP9y1QgXUTKjGLnDmKCnCXo4Ib97Krwt3f2zmEUhuuMrLqsMVG51wOhO5pvCGFlD-TaLX-86zxMvMCR9mXxyndTeawvNorzl5Gti3UCMnErVFEmLWjAzremD7u4zSdVnWiXHLH76cwkqr-o6b-ajopo9eg2o2Z0ZP0vu=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjK6IQ6TnxTk-2j08Bb8QrLZP9y1QgXUTKjGLnDmKCnCXo4Ib97Krwt3f2zmEUhuuMrLqsMVG51wOhO5pvCGFlD-TaLX-86zxMvMCR9mXxyndTeawvNorzl5Gti3UCMnErVFEmLWjAzremD7u4zSdVnWiXHLH76cwkqr-o6b-ajopo9eg2o2Z0ZP0vu=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">These are going to be for little blocks of wood that will keep the drum sander locked in the up or down position. I cut little half circles on the outward facing sides so I could get my finger in behind the blocks, and I hardened the inner surfaces with thin CA. Then I installed these on the base. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Due to the way I designed it, I need to install the router shelf before I can install many of the horizontal 2x4s (will be clearer in next post). That shelf is cut from the same 23/32" nice pine plywood that the base shelves are made out of. I used the circular saw for that. While I had the circular saw out, I decided to cut the table saw shelf out of some cruddy 5/8" plywood I've had for a long time. This shelf will be screwed down to the 2x4 box I showed earlier, and the table saw will sit on top of it. As such, I wanted to have a dust collection port in the shelf, so I designed that big 3D printed vacuum adapter in the above picture to fit in a 5.5"x5.5" hole with 1/4" corner radii, meaning I need to cut that hole in the plywood shelf. Hmm...never made a (nice) square hole in a piece of wood before. Turns out it's pretty straight forward. First, I marked the 5.5" square on the wood where I wanted it (centered under the table saw blade). Then I measured the radius from the spindle center to the outer base edge of my router (3"), then subtracted the radius of the bit I was going to use (1/2" 2 flute end mill) = 2.75". 5.5+2*2.75 = 11". So I drew an 11" square around the 5.5" square. Luckily I had cut the shelf pretty square, so it made drawing the squares using a carpenter square easy ("square square drawing squares on a ... rectangle", whatever). I then drilled 1/2" holes inside but near the corners of the 5.5" square and used a jig saw to rough cut the hole.</div></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgdDnGHMJ004WyZCJze9xxVwHnv8MaVsuY4zpYX2TIWNbN3-bgolu3yIxFfkZG4um9-q7M-aHYCzXMDHnpL1ZbEQSNghR-6l5zBYF_QPbCVnHmJbsbeaCS_exLGht5jTM7alVyEl4DakvoCJ98BCJ3pXJ5TP_oc1VJiVtExN00ztE5_zlVqhg8zKjXl=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgdDnGHMJ004WyZCJze9xxVwHnv8MaVsuY4zpYX2TIWNbN3-bgolu3yIxFfkZG4um9-q7M-aHYCzXMDHnpL1ZbEQSNghR-6l5zBYF_QPbCVnHmJbsbeaCS_exLGht5jTM7alVyEl4DakvoCJ98BCJ3pXJ5TP_oc1VJiVtExN00ztE5_zlVqhg8zKjXl=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm a big fan of the Kobalt 24V brushless tool line.<br />They're just as strong as plug in, but way easier to use</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Next, I clamped a bunch of random straight things I had around the 11" square. In the future, I'm going to 3D print some fasteners for some t-slot aluminum extrusions in order to make a nice router jig to do this. </div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgdankKTT0soe9878QE_u7pw44fYiVwhHoZbSjt7W5QsS37a_JyoU0TXgGcFiqbK0YkjCHAgAO2WHqgZfPYBppFAHWHy3azmmUZRbW3titFMjeMUKlhK7dzvxuVcvbGrMSStztZFb87rWCjjYF_DXp2MDxA48N0G5yyawnQIvyFE9qgPYk97RcGPa0z=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgdankKTT0soe9878QE_u7pw44fYiVwhHoZbSjt7W5QsS37a_JyoU0TXgGcFiqbK0YkjCHAgAO2WHqgZfPYBppFAHWHy3azmmUZRbW3titFMjeMUKlhK7dzvxuVcvbGrMSStztZFb87rWCjjYF_DXp2MDxA48N0G5yyawnQIvyFE9qgPYk97RcGPa0z=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Then I just pushed the router around inside the 11" square, which made an almost-perfect 5.5" square with 1/4" radius corners. The 3D printed vacuum adapter fit perfectly. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh3_NLqNPBvESccGGKdyphROBTZcD8VlvaGAU5j7zYg4pJSQA07s9bUkBxHhILfZbaBvmYEl4nSiIvdVK6PSSQg-nCb6VW_onRFVNQRTkuFsA6_L9zSReSuXkCL3TGWqltknjirtfQ-EZh_R16sVac9LMP19ndLxq-WrhX-M0l8K5jRmWO6Rkgikd6s=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh3_NLqNPBvESccGGKdyphROBTZcD8VlvaGAU5j7zYg4pJSQA07s9bUkBxHhILfZbaBvmYEl4nSiIvdVK6PSSQg-nCb6VW_onRFVNQRTkuFsA6_L9zSReSuXkCL3TGWqltknjirtfQ-EZh_R16sVac9LMP19ndLxq-WrhX-M0l8K5jRmWO6Rkgikd6s=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgjL0k_fOAFevXRFPoKg-puV0AdkdgJPdJtS7nWl4rC42atlV88BVQAecybcTafAF6FF6WQGcUo9NNRlordFOJlL8HsU2iCCocMDWIz17G6Wbks8kQ2zpZjQS1xzSalsJvzYjAhUKig0BPhEXniQlGU7YwwoUGzklL5gvJhrTkNFytSDQKR6K3vimPr=s4608" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgjL0k_fOAFevXRFPoKg-puV0AdkdgJPdJtS7nWl4rC42atlV88BVQAecybcTafAF6FF6WQGcUo9NNRlordFOJlL8HsU2iCCocMDWIz17G6Wbks8kQ2zpZjQS1xzSalsJvzYjAhUKig0BPhEXniQlGU7YwwoUGzklL5gvJhrTkNFytSDQKR6K3vimPr=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's where it will go<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, all of the vertical 2x4s are installed. Table saw and router shelves to be installed next.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgBXx8_4AaLmDDCNd0b9f3MtwNhkvFy0C6SxrOYjAjZyX4p1iSILeiHwIj0tw3bEtP62obwjm1RKed_QfTIx_W50JvnHivaWLCwMMaxLg_KfbNzBDfgWCvE2sr4tRnBobtGNWUphShMazCCV7jCmJnJ_nqtMPF60BiKSrzewv1tFdwlzmSlJZx4Bu-6=s4608" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgBXx8_4AaLmDDCNd0b9f3MtwNhkvFy0C6SxrOYjAjZyX4p1iSILeiHwIj0tw3bEtP62obwjm1RKed_QfTIx_W50JvnHivaWLCwMMaxLg_KfbNzBDfgWCvE2sr4tRnBobtGNWUphShMazCCV7jCmJnJ_nqtMPF60BiKSrzewv1tFdwlzmSlJZx4Bu-6=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-70508095673197016312021-11-14T20:43:00.007-05:002021-11-14T20:57:08.693-05:00Workbench, part 1<p>I've been working on a workbench for my garage-shop. Since space is at a premium, I decided I wanted it to both be a work surface and a place to hold some of my larger wood working tools. </p><p>I started with mock CAD models of the tools: bandsaw (12" Craftsman), table saw (10" Craftsman), drum sander, miter saw (10" Skil compound sliding), and router table (Kobalt). These models have accurate dimensions but not most of the details. I spent some time arranging them in logical fashion. I wanted the miter saw and router table to have long in-feed and out-feeds, which necessitated putting them in the middle of the long edges. Luckily, they both fit in the middle. The band saw doesn't need much in-feed, nor does it need any work surface to the left of it (because of the throat), but a long out-feed would be nice, so that meant sticking it in a left corner facing and end. The drum sander needed to be in a corner to make working around it easier. That left the table saw on the other end, which gives maximum out-feed table length. Unfortunately, it doesn't give the table saw much width to work with, definitely not enough to cut long boards or sheet goods on it, nor room for a longer fence. My plan for that is to create a separate table with adjustable, folding legs that I can place on either side of the work bench to give the table saw more width to work with...more on that later.</p><p>After getting the layout down, I went on to create the framing from 2x4's (1.5x3.5's). The bandsaw, miter saw, and drum sander all rotate down, and a work surface is attached to their bases that rotates up. The table saw is very heavy and the surface is mostly flat, so I didn't see the point in trying to move it. The router table is light weight enough to move down a shelf. I designed work surface pieces to fit between the tools. I then added plywood shelves and drawers to many of the empty spaces.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2E-fDc48qknjZlBWYPqqBZX0aeXNsy4cSpEd73I1zjMzcQPRUT1vvpP1_pwQ6vyq8XEH9EqHnTu5fWhQGdKQhC6genphY4YVCYuLSF9qhb-DCtR3B_RsSZHqQ93Q8wYL-eqzzojodSn0/s1285/Capture4.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="839" data-original-width="1285" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2E-fDc48qknjZlBWYPqqBZX0aeXNsy4cSpEd73I1zjMzcQPRUT1vvpP1_pwQ6vyq8XEH9EqHnTu5fWhQGdKQhC6genphY4YVCYuLSF9qhb-DCtR3B_RsSZHqQ93Q8wYL-eqzzojodSn0/w400-h261/Capture4.PNG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Table saw left, router table middle, bandsaw right</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLats8ZYt1wGWNjvHBlrLR3cJYo4_mcMrPdD2oTTQzzPGjrmD0PYnVelb41AY_T4E7GHnVRwT6UmtuvEMVSJrzYQapfjM-Ujku0In-o3vsj7Ci-2E1-oyhRrvwKt5_tGZZBsDHWHiWlFc/s1312/Capture3.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="837" data-original-width="1312" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLats8ZYt1wGWNjvHBlrLR3cJYo4_mcMrPdD2oTTQzzPGjrmD0PYnVelb41AY_T4E7GHnVRwT6UmtuvEMVSJrzYQapfjM-Ujku0In-o3vsj7Ci-2E1-oyhRrvwKt5_tGZZBsDHWHiWlFc/w400-h255/Capture3.PNG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Drum sander left, miter saw middle</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5x1hQtN2Zwyxe3IPOgqDS6eBAG99h6JdObQIHsiqt6aU2y72so_LIc14yeNIqfEJfLsDJajNuEK-ffvAwQ5bEsLbzlaxXke1fnzqG8EcuvgFqhU1k008UafKdUKoiUvkq2w7E6bTKmQs/s1243/Capture.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="709" data-original-width="1243" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5x1hQtN2Zwyxe3IPOgqDS6eBAG99h6JdObQIHsiqt6aU2y72so_LIc14yeNIqfEJfLsDJajNuEK-ffvAwQ5bEsLbzlaxXke1fnzqG8EcuvgFqhU1k008UafKdUKoiUvkq2w7E6bTKmQs/w400-h229/Capture.PNG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tools stowed</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipXDf1MnBFHWidmZuqONzpAaRkIL36kli64g5eLNzv4yzT6s_zwcvZa2dM4UjUDDTotnep9xZ8zJA4SZSWRJgfdpg1YuQ9hvOqNARAjTpXcLCkPfohoDUNudBGtr6Va7dbH1UQbSjt6ew/s1253/Capture2.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="825" data-original-width="1253" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipXDf1MnBFHWidmZuqONzpAaRkIL36kli64g5eLNzv4yzT6s_zwcvZa2dM4UjUDDTotnep9xZ8zJA4SZSWRJgfdpg1YuQ9hvOqNARAjTpXcLCkPfohoDUNudBGtr6Va7dbH1UQbSjt6ew/w400-h264/Capture2.PNG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>The top surfaces will be 3/4" MDF with an opaque (probably white-ish) top. The rest of the construction is 2x4s and plywood. The base's outer dimensions are 4ft x 8ft, though the table saw hangs out over the end a bit, and it's fence (to be replaced) hangs over the sides. I had almost all of the 2x4s needed from tearing down an old shelving unit in the garage. They are all older, have a lot more rings than you can buy in current 2x4s, and they're noticeably denser. They also aged to different and interesting hues:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifTOaxjtfYlcZOysalr-fUOwX65l9zSe1bODHFEMCzD8PNXCZrnQvALUsxiPZlEHjUU9-rxMYpRkz6kfMt5_FLMQWqpBulKaTdW4z0GktAjYYdeXqbU5PodZV_SKam72o4ivNiv4QBmzk/s4608/IMG_20211030_151621757_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifTOaxjtfYlcZOysalr-fUOwX65l9zSe1bODHFEMCzD8PNXCZrnQvALUsxiPZlEHjUU9-rxMYpRkz6kfMt5_FLMQWqpBulKaTdW4z0GktAjYYdeXqbU5PodZV_SKam72o4ivNiv4QBmzk/s320/IMG_20211030_151621757_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">top: recent Home Depot pine, middle two: old fir, </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">bottom: very old unknown wood</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>I really like the mix of colors, I think it'll make the workbench interesting looking. I needed one more 8ft long 2x4 for the base and shockingly managed to find a straight one at Home Depot. Most of the 2x4s I have are straight, but the more-warped ones will be cut into the shortest pieces. Screwing into the end grain of a board is not a good idea because the screws can loosen over time, so most of the 2x4 (and other) joints will be by pocket hole joinery, specifically using the "HD" #14 screw ones, with wood glue. I tested this joint and it seems to be stiff enough. Ideally, I'd use mortise and tenon, but I don't have a setup for making those yet. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilyAKi6MB03u5Z6KmbOn7jyx7qTlC2qeoHHLLgA_QQlDZZpQ0hA09Y4ppvBzq-_vUaOdZVNigj7mmjSA4iO43eQHrGVTLQyq5hWvXogAWDBJwK_r9dzILVzyodUO0byajCQNG_iLPNogk/s4608/IMG_20211031_162749260_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilyAKi6MB03u5Z6KmbOn7jyx7qTlC2qeoHHLLgA_QQlDZZpQ0hA09Y4ppvBzq-_vUaOdZVNigj7mmjSA4iO43eQHrGVTLQyq5hWvXogAWDBJwK_r9dzILVzyodUO0byajCQNG_iLPNogk/s320/IMG_20211031_162749260_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Cutting the base 2x4s with the miter saw</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I joined the four outer base 2x4s with pocket hole joints first. The base plywood shelves are recessed into the base frame. There are advantages and disadvantages to doing this over placing a sheet of plywood on top of the base frame. Advantages: slightly more useable height, no need for edge banding to hide the plywood edge, no need to cut out notches for vertical 2x4s, easier to replace if become damaged (easier to remove and only need to remove the one shelf that is damaged). Disadvantages: have to cut up the plywood sheet (lots of cuts), harder to mount and level each shelf. To that last point, I designed these corner blocks to support the base shelves:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_VHtOCt3q6_5_Wm07O30fVtKFC2tZA8jeKMAzj-V1NB_4mAcTGGiP6fsb7BUk2pXyc9TBo2FNFcQ-S9X88UEWiwidiid-TWdxZYHHr1g_t6rx00WxiLMZFH8Ym4QcE8BCfM5sC1zGuU/s4608/IMG_20211104_185049536.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_VHtOCt3q6_5_Wm07O30fVtKFC2tZA8jeKMAzj-V1NB_4mAcTGGiP6fsb7BUk2pXyc9TBo2FNFcQ-S9X88UEWiwidiid-TWdxZYHHr1g_t6rx00WxiLMZFH8Ym4QcE8BCfM5sC1zGuU/s320/IMG_20211104_185049536.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>I made them close to the height that, if the 2x4 beams are resting on a flat surface, then placing them in the corner as in this picture results in their top surface being recessed down just enough for the plywood to sit level with the top of the 2x4s. I needed 20 of them, so I used an end stop on the miter saw to cut them all. Each one has four holes, so I printed out templates and spent a couple hours marking and drilling holes on the drill press. I used the "HD" pocket hole counterbore drill bit (1/2" counter bore, 1/4" hole) to drill the deep holes (left in above picture), and a normal 1/4" bit to drill the holes on right. The deep holes are offset inward to allow my driver to fit. I found these "Spax construction wafer head #10 2.5" T-star " screws at Home Depot, which are cheaper and thinner than the #14 pocket hole screws, but otherwise pretty similar. I figured I'd use the spax screws anywhere I didn't need the strength of the larger pocket hole screws, like for installing these corner blocks. I used a scrap piece of plywood to help install them at the right height.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjPPjuIvuAw7-v8A3YlnOnSuaUtINo-PIKqCOAdE0AFVFJr9TafGDOVvzniMBrLvmHu-IcU1OO80_dxBDvsJg7riSBMMeaxPbPcFgI8SKwxF65Ov2hmKCJ21bLF1kqfikNuznV5bSbYm4/s4608/IMG_20211107_185625335.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjPPjuIvuAw7-v8A3YlnOnSuaUtINo-PIKqCOAdE0AFVFJr9TafGDOVvzniMBrLvmHu-IcU1OO80_dxBDvsJg7riSBMMeaxPbPcFgI8SKwxF65Ov2hmKCJ21bLF1kqfikNuznV5bSbYm4/w300-h400/IMG_20211107_185625335.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Plywood was just resting underneath, didn't </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">have anywhere else to store it</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For the cross members, I installed four corner blocks on them first, sanded the ends flat, clamped them in the frame with pipe clamps at the correct location, then screwed the blocks (deep holes) into the 2x4s it was clamped between. The result is a very strong and stiff base frame. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next, I used a circular saw (60T blade) to cut the plywood sheet (23/32" nice pine) into the base shelves. I used a harbor freight clamping straight edge to do this, which I previously didn't have much luck with, but I was able to get within about 1/32" of the desired line this time. I guess practice helps. Given the fact that the recessed areas aren't perfectly rectangular, this was more than good enough. Because I hadn't had much success with the straight edge previously, I left some extra on many of the edges, so I ended up using the circular saw to trim the extra off (made ~2x as many cuts as I really needed to). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2-CSPnG0X5-xCIOBW4CGaoZepFO_gOi5oQfbJ_JzqFa2WNDV55jMV9g6MXpGW-X52JK3ckV0_RV-6i34LGOKVRbbc3ozuGDRHr1RDP7F9WreYzG6OUXl-N0TcjVWnwufKcyBAx9khyOQ/s4608/IMG_20211112_142053179.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2-CSPnG0X5-xCIOBW4CGaoZepFO_gOi5oQfbJ_JzqFa2WNDV55jMV9g6MXpGW-X52JK3ckV0_RV-6i34LGOKVRbbc3ozuGDRHr1RDP7F9WreYzG6OUXl-N0TcjVWnwufKcyBAx9khyOQ/w300-h400/IMG_20211112_142053179.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The base shelves</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmBZUR8dwjsRlCUpZtpLndUiQ5GCwYfducdbPwt_nmFbmmjklEfCqkMaP1JwodeZX5ZSHcPijqXTsIcHF-4ii7KUXKJixoHuSkxDFiQg1qY9GZAuq0nxLgcKTlNp0X_5JdAcpyvxs2CRs/s4608/IMG_20211112_142558917.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmBZUR8dwjsRlCUpZtpLndUiQ5GCwYfducdbPwt_nmFbmmjklEfCqkMaP1JwodeZX5ZSHcPijqXTsIcHF-4ii7KUXKJixoHuSkxDFiQg1qY9GZAuq0nxLgcKTlNp0X_5JdAcpyvxs2CRs/w300-h400/IMG_20211112_142558917.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Flipped the frame over</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I flipped the frame over in order to sand the four outer corners flat. I did my best when screwing the 2x4s together to make sure they were even, but the actual dimensions of the 2x4s varied by as much as an 1/8". One was 1 5/8" wide, instead of 1 1/2" wide, some were 3 7/16" tall instead of 3 1/2" tall. Thus, I needed to glue some 1/16" basswood shims in some places and sand down all the corners to make them flat. I used a handheld 3" belt sander to do this <br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWgMLMZf51QlYhEdCQocMiONCQGkw6XWK2nkETNxqHh8lR0wCQ4h4-HZruyoz_P523dqxtfLxgZOTThhiQRrpk7I9y42bjC7JXOr2EsQXEbDalR3F8G9txrxQEbiKwco7z4gxCsnUcGp8/s4608/IMG_20211112_143215767_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWgMLMZf51QlYhEdCQocMiONCQGkw6XWK2nkETNxqHh8lR0wCQ4h4-HZruyoz_P523dqxtfLxgZOTThhiQRrpk7I9y42bjC7JXOr2EsQXEbDalR3F8G9txrxQEbiKwco7z4gxCsnUcGp8/s320/IMG_20211112_143215767_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Flat corner</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Why am I flattening the bottom corners? For casters! I bought four 4 inch casters for $35 off amazon. Load rating is 1800 lbs, and my CAD model estimates about 1200 lbs (tools and wood are heavy!), so these should work. This was another advantage of using the corner blocks: can use the shelf support blocks to mount the casters.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoojxzrXSJPP_e3gcrKhfOUDN-9x2pePXUv6JaWnS3R0G7Yj8nHnzwI0ZY5mnTBiwVDyRAzhkFMyzYkl4evh0AyyibO_DISxGT0u6tYBCYDdOLjzqrDUBPDB_T-StePO8QOWyQbVryuhQ/s4608/IMG_20211112_143231542_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoojxzrXSJPP_e3gcrKhfOUDN-9x2pePXUv6JaWnS3R0G7Yj8nHnzwI0ZY5mnTBiwVDyRAzhkFMyzYkl4evh0AyyibO_DISxGT0u6tYBCYDdOLjzqrDUBPDB_T-StePO8QOWyQbVryuhQ/s320/IMG_20211112_143231542_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Test fit</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>The casters didn't come with wood screws, but luckily I had some 1/4" lag bolts (no idea from where), so I used those. I marked and drilled pilot holes before using my impact driver with a hex bit to drive them in.<div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJNoHXTgJVxZnNYG_plOpsj9RYxcju0QtrQPorkZDvaNYrDn3aIEiPz4rXE7zKviV1woL4XPE5pXu4MiwOPB2nqtsTae6xyJTqsVGr8Sd7xdLi9YorFRzcMmc4y9gBFMkohCKm04mW0Y/s4608/IMG_20211112_150427904_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJNoHXTgJVxZnNYG_plOpsj9RYxcju0QtrQPorkZDvaNYrDn3aIEiPz4rXE7zKviV1woL4XPE5pXu4MiwOPB2nqtsTae6xyJTqsVGr8Sd7xdLi9YorFRzcMmc4y9gBFMkohCKm04mW0Y/s320/IMG_20211112_150427904_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYBBN4Nis8KHXr4k0biXD8NmB4Tfq5DzIZJj_R5nD8WBLL0bwHf2LLCnBVS-qSWTUXYIpX9PNVgVU8Ug2lF4C6XDhju58X4mukKZOe3SmoKwHcXhd74e8PQn5AfVVatjgqCQLecMNb3M/s4608/IMG_20211112_151648220.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYBBN4Nis8KHXr4k0biXD8NmB4Tfq5DzIZJj_R5nD8WBLL0bwHf2LLCnBVS-qSWTUXYIpX9PNVgVU8Ug2lF4C6XDhju58X4mukKZOe3SmoKwHcXhd74e8PQn5AfVVatjgqCQLecMNb3M/w300-h400/IMG_20211112_151648220.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Casters mounted, frame flipped back upright</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div>I also got lucky that the frame ended up sitting flat, so I didn't need to shim the corners for the casters not to rock. The next step was to sand (palm sander + oscillating saw/sander) the tops of the corner blocks such that the shelves sit level with the tops of the 2x4s. About 3/4 of them needed some sanding, but only two needed a lot (~1/16") of material removed, so overall, I think that plan worked out pretty well. Some of the shelves had to be sanded out-of-square in order to fit, and I used the handheld belt sander to do that.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6de46j9H4RslgL6FKolC3oTLqRLyKwrB0zj-vqc1XtNRYSB1GehbuZZJwYdpfhI14wWFi5nl9JB8vSEijWqYpLVmjOY6siSiAGX-SjKSJN2Rmyu7uYN5A9XI7FAJmKQOg-OEpTxl2QdI/s4608/IMG_20211113_120346134.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6de46j9H4RslgL6FKolC3oTLqRLyKwrB0zj-vqc1XtNRYSB1GehbuZZJwYdpfhI14wWFi5nl9JB8vSEijWqYpLVmjOY6siSiAGX-SjKSJN2Rmyu7uYN5A9XI7FAJmKQOg-OEpTxl2QdI/w300-h400/IMG_20211113_120346134.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Test fitting a shelf</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPT2s-jmq57byTUoFGVn-IbucLGm3RFSekjwG02O71l7UOchYZWLDb819o6K5cpMkhfPBLRqfC3xRmpHwda_opIC97auX6HuW8232yOMhmJHKW-VqQV91z1W5prHpRP9HtGwH-pf1aQUI/s4608/IMG_20211113_150328911.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPT2s-jmq57byTUoFGVn-IbucLGm3RFSekjwG02O71l7UOchYZWLDb819o6K5cpMkhfPBLRqfC3xRmpHwda_opIC97auX6HuW8232yOMhmJHKW-VqQV91z1W5prHpRP9HtGwH-pf1aQUI/w300-h400/IMG_20211113_150328911.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">All shelves fit</div><br /><div>The gap in the bottom left is for the top of the band saw to rotate into, and I'll be cutting a ~1" notch in the left 2x4 there. I'll reinforce that notch with a thick steel straight strap I found at Home Depot. </div><div><br /></div><div>Unfortunately, I underestimated the flexibility of the plywood, and the three long shelves bowed down a little in the middle. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VQ8zvKzqjJZUQvY3X-yd5R_xVBCHjvjcxmf0Jhlrp-Qx1I7k6EF-4szRZykym04A-rBZ2aDukayDyTTKN-Us-7TZSqQkpeW5jqp_r6xl_T-5ygsaFY_ZMPW36-ncYCe-8CZzyKOP7Zo/s4608/IMG_20211114_094952817.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VQ8zvKzqjJZUQvY3X-yd5R_xVBCHjvjcxmf0Jhlrp-Qx1I7k6EF-4szRZykym04A-rBZ2aDukayDyTTKN-Us-7TZSqQkpeW5jqp_r6xl_T-5ygsaFY_ZMPW36-ncYCe-8CZzyKOP7Zo/s320/IMG_20211114_094952817.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Middle of shelf sitting about 3/16" inch below top of 2x4</div><br /><div>The solution was pretty simple: add middle support blocks. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRgLDR1LInD6ke72ikY9dQCOI_VvyV7meQ_StkB0VcNKBk3esZDaSHjrhrGEmsWTvVwbdUUs9YWVWQFSfpiSTForDCLbrH7o3BbA0SxRDlm4AJJUM030BKXLLOJQa9vq6pME3z2KRtHJU/s4608/IMG_20211114_095004246.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRgLDR1LInD6ke72ikY9dQCOI_VvyV7meQ_StkB0VcNKBk3esZDaSHjrhrGEmsWTvVwbdUUs9YWVWQFSfpiSTForDCLbrH7o3BbA0SxRDlm4AJJUM030BKXLLOJQa9vq6pME3z2KRtHJU/s320/IMG_20211114_095004246.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Middle blocks screwed+glued to sides with same recess </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">as corner blocks</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3nFrtDvpLAtUhrQ0AmUMpWArjNl56FtaV3XEHUOP-llyAMjHrWL_cxscFLcz5lV9rwL7tqh67ox6foUeAbEoUYq-rOf7OqviIQ4-sVdEzMjRc9YgJYFcRQHDAFYQiipH5RokzjZAUEE/s4608/IMG_20211114_100703456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3nFrtDvpLAtUhrQ0AmUMpWArjNl56FtaV3XEHUOP-llyAMjHrWL_cxscFLcz5lV9rwL7tqh67ox6foUeAbEoUYq-rOf7OqviIQ4-sVdEzMjRc9YgJYFcRQHDAFYQiipH5RokzjZAUEE/s320/IMG_20211114_100703456.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Sits flush now</div><div><br /></div><div>Before I screwed the shelves down to the corner blocks, I decided I didn't like the fresh white pine coloring. It's just too light. Thus, I decided to stain the plywood shelves and the one new 2x4. I tried a bunch of different stains and settled on "golden pecan". It's still pretty light, but not as "white" as the raw pine. The process for staining was as follows: sand with 220 grit, vacuum dust, wipe with mineral spirits and lint-free cloth, brush on stain conditioner to seal (for soft woods like pine), wipe off excess conditioner, let conditioner dry 30 minutes, brush on stain, wipe off excess stain, let dry. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-KzysNJKIvCxVFC1OJwpUMQu0vM7H9qS4icp5a2bXwR6Ivjq-57Gjq2zLl69fgCy2gxs8gh3EVvoInB0HZFrWnq1wBtcg_wFA2sD1uFFfXZJnGuU9KDpJjid72m3W6RBllwHk6k4167k/s4608/IMG_20211114_183003350.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-KzysNJKIvCxVFC1OJwpUMQu0vM7H9qS4icp5a2bXwR6Ivjq-57Gjq2zLl69fgCy2gxs8gh3EVvoInB0HZFrWnq1wBtcg_wFA2sD1uFFfXZJnGuU9KDpJjid72m3W6RBllwHk6k4167k/s320/IMG_20211114_183003350.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Stained shelf. Sorry for crappy lighting</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">They came out nice. Coloring is much closer to that of the old fir 2x4s. I only did the tops of the shelves since the bottoms and sides will never be seen. </div><br /><div>Next steps:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Finish staining pine</li><li>Screw in the shelves</li><li>Mix stain with wood filler and apply wood filler to screw holes and any gaps between shelves and 2x4s</li><li>Sand wood filler, fix any sanded stain spots</li><li>Seal shelves with 3 coats of polyurethane to protect them while building the rest of the workbench</li><li>Start cutting and joining the vertical 2x4s</li></ul><div><br /></div><div>I'll show more details of the rotation mechanisms, electrical, vacuum ports, drawers, etc as I continue to build it. I've worked with wood before, but I've never done any woodworking projects this complicated, so this'll be an adventure.</div></div></div></div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-15753274901622276182021-07-28T21:52:00.001-04:002021-07-28T21:53:48.499-04:00More Garage Organization<p>I did some more garage organization over the last week. The previous owner left these old beat-up particle board cabinets+countertop. They're gross and take up too much space.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3FkZfGruBUzkFasjnlXUQ1ZGITfr70GoLiw9tT9tGQli6OTUJCt4RZKOxqXeSSxIiqHObP5tEGWWWZ3QMzpX0p3moK5uF3B2ZOaEKo3QRZyrAVtkn2V8Yis6RXg12pRMVewD72wewlPA/s4608/IMG_20210725_131348485.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3FkZfGruBUzkFasjnlXUQ1ZGITfr70GoLiw9tT9tGQli6OTUJCt4RZKOxqXeSSxIiqHObP5tEGWWWZ3QMzpX0p3moK5uF3B2ZOaEKo3QRZyrAVtkn2V8Yis6RXg12pRMVewD72wewlPA/w400-h300/IMG_20210725_131348485.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />Before</div><div><br /></div>After taking them off: <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0tNV4Xskan0y5EIMPY_SxNu8esSdTXmHwUlvIfxrI0-9Mo5Zbv6NqSw6TINbXnatrqWU1mmkl8mIc3Of6rqCJx0Bydig_vCl0InybiUAGRnj8irQYK110rmthXVBcAAZbd3UNrClf-eY/s4608/IMG_20210725_173027995.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0tNV4Xskan0y5EIMPY_SxNu8esSdTXmHwUlvIfxrI0-9Mo5Zbv6NqSw6TINbXnatrqWU1mmkl8mIc3Of6rqCJx0Bydig_vCl0InybiUAGRnj8irQYK110rmthXVBcAAZbd3UNrClf-eY/w400-h300/IMG_20210725_173027995.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Used concrete patch to fill about 20 holes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I listed the cabinets for free on FB marketplace, and someone came and got them the next day. I love FB marketplace and craigslist...people haul away the junk you don't want anymore and sometimes give you money for it. Like this ancient snap-on torque wrench I found under one of the cabinets: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBEbJLXxhWgxU7fcD_9f8exquhWtnA7Opmnipc1wMNKSfkgC0TGsrrPZepFzkYxq-gBDLLHl_p3WU7QndF-ZYSayfg3pQ7nYdeTFFIHd5QvMUJa21_3BrFNOeFayqq_bd9bASyTnguIPA/s4608/IMG_20210725_175252505.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBEbJLXxhWgxU7fcD_9f8exquhWtnA7Opmnipc1wMNKSfkgC0TGsrrPZepFzkYxq-gBDLLHl_p3WU7QndF-ZYSayfg3pQ7nYdeTFFIHd5QvMUJa21_3BrFNOeFayqq_bd9bASyTnguIPA/w400-h300/IMG_20210725_175252505.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's cool, and I was tempted to keep it, but it's almost certainly out of calibration and I'd never use it. Got $20 for it, though. Next, painting:</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1q-CComj2BXLdLBQEbG6E8Ud804l6XlgBI4p1NyyE6M2PAIElwQ4hGOjSkqmjKtVJJJa6ZKDFW6uUnV-csFYNDEnbMjlAuKpR-g9K90M6hyphenhyphenxyEeXVQqcFvYfIwGGdDV5v6grmfSupVI/s4608/IMG_20210726_214003620.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1q-CComj2BXLdLBQEbG6E8Ud804l6XlgBI4p1NyyE6M2PAIElwQ4hGOjSkqmjKtVJJJa6ZKDFW6uUnV-csFYNDEnbMjlAuKpR-g9K90M6hyphenhyphenxyEeXVQqcFvYfIwGGdDV5v6grmfSupVI/w400-h300/IMG_20210726_214003620.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Flat white like the rest of the walls I painted.</div><div><br /></div><div>Only one little patch of not-white remains, and it's behind/around the water heater, which I can't get to easily. Then it was on to building a shelf unit, moving another, and filling them up. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFbM1WePIYGOt2yBhgHf4V_c1zUBO8K-dWPp1eYOs4CW5T2BpEDZygN7Nx-pkLEQFdNep-NsBuuP28J-o0iPvH2JuIxal8UjzBJYiKEPq756Vxd8VSYZLrY0XMSdR0w2crOxKwdCISAu0/s4608/IMG_20210728_213959269_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFbM1WePIYGOt2yBhgHf4V_c1zUBO8K-dWPp1eYOs4CW5T2BpEDZygN7Nx-pkLEQFdNep-NsBuuP28J-o0iPvH2JuIxal8UjzBJYiKEPq756Vxd8VSYZLrY0XMSdR0w2crOxKwdCISAu0/w400-h300/IMG_20210728_213959269_HDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>All the rocket stuff is one place now, which is nice. I added a shelf bracket (upper right) to support the really long stuff. The tooling cabinet has a home now, though I still need to clean and repaint it. </p><p>That's it for now, plenty more to do. Next up is the bike rack, which will go where one of those shelving units was. </p>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-86661984227533666982021-07-22T11:13:00.006-04:002021-08-15T20:15:49.317-04:00House Work<p>Haven't had many posts recently, been busy working on the house.</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>painted everything but the basement</li><li>replaced a pump and replumbed the hot tub</li><li>replaced almost every light fixture. Just the foyer chandelier and bathroom lights left to go.</li><li>replaced a bunch of switches</li><li>tons of organization stuff. bought a steel full-wall book shelf for all our books</li><li>garage (see other posts)</li><li>etc...it's never ending</li></ul><div>Some fun stuff though, like the space wall:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWSqBW-egYZOAdn13tud4-9PClbg1qMXb61Pq_vhrbQdiNq2EvFSYAtBELQAwNiYpzsBjmUDk3HhCvB9hFMLegm2xBRnFr45p5nchGCM57JmJJKaKx7YPVw471f2uS7_zCBm-t84V0OQ/s1600/IMG_20210722_084044486.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWSqBW-egYZOAdn13tud4-9PClbg1qMXb61Pq_vhrbQdiNq2EvFSYAtBELQAwNiYpzsBjmUDk3HhCvB9hFMLegm2xBRnFr45p5nchGCM57JmJJKaKx7YPVw471f2uS7_zCBm-t84V0OQ/w400-h300/IMG_20210722_084044486.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>I found high resolution images of all of the top posters and had them printed at CVS: good mix of US space and Soviet space propaganda. Already had most of the ones in the middle. Walmart sells glass front poster frames for ~$5, can't beat that.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgIqmhlP658spi27V6cdt3s78YmdgJe28DICfBr_GYM25lfx6KxtOqRxIJAitsP5CKUjwQ2CSR4Lnf1tan2KKnvL8TIdCl-wx3RBr93EyMa8JVNd4IQ8Xex-helpPIduwR-s7dKsfcR0c/s1600/IMG_20210722_084038192.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgIqmhlP658spi27V6cdt3s78YmdgJe28DICfBr_GYM25lfx6KxtOqRxIJAitsP5CKUjwQ2CSR4Lnf1tan2KKnvL8TIdCl-wx3RBr93EyMa8JVNd4IQ8Xex-helpPIduwR-s7dKsfcR0c/s320/IMG_20210722_084038192.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The aquarium on the right will eventually be a display case for the H1 rocket engine turbine sitting next to it on the floor, and the H1 engine pocket technical manual I just won an auction for. The turbine is too heavy for me to lift up and into the display...might be a good justification for buying an engine hoist, haha. I'll eventually CNC-route (need to build that first...) a polycarbonate stand for it to sit on inside the display case. I went with an aquarium because most display cases I found couldn't support the weight of the turbine, but 40 gallons (size of that aquarium) of water is over 300lbs, and the turbine definitely doesn't weigh that much. Used aquariums are also really cheap on craigslist/fb marketplace. Tip: if you have something really heavy you want to display in a case: buy an aquarium to do it. </div><p></p></div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-88191445352361535672021-07-20T23:38:00.001-04:002021-07-22T08:58:33.790-04:00Refurbishing an Antique Metal Workbench: Part 2<p> Finally got around to finishing the workbench. I sanded the rough paint and added another coat, and two coats where I hadn't painted previously. Still didn't come out perfect, would really need a paint booth for that, not a tarp on my drive way, but it's good enough. I started re-assembly after the paint dried using new hardware. I heavily greased the drawer slides to prevent them from rusting and make drawer action smoother. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiysuzXN1wFMNxBTi4k-xyL_osa5qhmUcw09GM1N8DOAPsPGlylp1luoF29rXObrx_CKpZ2eSoDvVW9JhV4qPeXCyrrIg_n9iyuU7YwVq0owdJ4PkPhaMWsc1hMBcvELyYVMSxPeilAdX8/s4608/IMG_20210622_194758011_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiysuzXN1wFMNxBTi4k-xyL_osa5qhmUcw09GM1N8DOAPsPGlylp1luoF29rXObrx_CKpZ2eSoDvVW9JhV4qPeXCyrrIg_n9iyuU7YwVq0owdJ4PkPhaMWsc1hMBcvELyYVMSxPeilAdX8/s320/IMG_20210622_194758011_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvyugR2HfgNwJYN5L1YxYCzCCD6kNhWWpZl1GNgCuO5vRbScZWh1WjcWQlIL0bpWnlR8wox_mkVJnboPgDI-6Gxp9qBw0OVRPlVsXLd7tIsrH8SOZ2-4OfasCOrUMyejbGU2Q1kKWziw/s4608/IMG_20210623_192243896_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvyugR2HfgNwJYN5L1YxYCzCCD6kNhWWpZl1GNgCuO5vRbScZWh1WjcWQlIL0bpWnlR8wox_mkVJnboPgDI-6Gxp9qBw0OVRPlVsXLd7tIsrH8SOZ2-4OfasCOrUMyejbGU2Q1kKWziw/s320/IMG_20210623_192243896_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Next, epoxy top. I did a seal coat first:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09-E03WkRsQ1l7vKfu7KEGiK1EW8bfEln7Jq_RzrPerhWg5Nf5KzIEwPuNOEA0Se4NBqXMXPaZ0HvxvXOgKFYw1oxO9OPJsOKQXbJaYpO4OLupWtr5sLMRejCNFyUMbRb-JSdARDOJPA/s4608/IMG_20210713_125458403.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09-E03WkRsQ1l7vKfu7KEGiK1EW8bfEln7Jq_RzrPerhWg5Nf5KzIEwPuNOEA0Se4NBqXMXPaZ0HvxvXOgKFYw1oxO9OPJsOKQXbJaYpO4OLupWtr5sLMRejCNFyUMbRb-JSdARDOJPA/s320/IMG_20210713_125458403.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRleSoV0FDEcqJyDAa5hRZX3qzaAv8ocyBOlJR0BUdPOvOEH7y_gG5X1sWzgkrTA2p1RpJ1zQD_R_VFIQ_tstd5oHc5m0M3iQrMTTaakreUL9nJ7f9_NG1u1AHaGin7XRJFMZI-2HMPc/s4608/IMG_20210713_125505495.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRleSoV0FDEcqJyDAa5hRZX3qzaAv8ocyBOlJR0BUdPOvOEH7y_gG5X1sWzgkrTA2p1RpJ1zQD_R_VFIQ_tstd5oHc5m0M3iQrMTTaakreUL9nJ7f9_NG1u1AHaGin7XRJFMZI-2HMPc/s320/IMG_20210713_125505495.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then I mixed up a huge batch with a small jar of white pigment in it. The pigment wasn't strong enough, so it was still somewhat translucent. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXEL1BYuBlTsRoG5LLH4zD2_X-vis5E1O992HtRiIHmRuJrTEdXR3u4-0idalL-oLjAsrrZZkvJXHjJkfvqNCL-6H-AMzkMCkgPdyzupzmnlCR6ZOtqGxK5Yre9mFhujf0HExLC0371s4/s4608/IMG_20210713_182831481.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXEL1BYuBlTsRoG5LLH4zD2_X-vis5E1O992HtRiIHmRuJrTEdXR3u4-0idalL-oLjAsrrZZkvJXHjJkfvqNCL-6H-AMzkMCkgPdyzupzmnlCR6ZOtqGxK5Yre9mFhujf0HExLC0371s4/s320/IMG_20210713_182831481.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ51lUx6E8gJKLaNu8HASRhye8OWD8QSA3vlDeIZzHs_UgpCCBo6Ooo7pq2aNTQPeLxEFUKrlK-YekXPDt8-aGbkAQEf-Q2tq48qQDKdLhuSymWPePzCiCIS4FhyCz7Nr9im3ftyzJBUs/s4608/IMG_20210715_071630663.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ51lUx6E8gJKLaNu8HASRhye8OWD8QSA3vlDeIZzHs_UgpCCBo6Ooo7pq2aNTQPeLxEFUKrlK-YekXPDt8-aGbkAQEf-Q2tq48qQDKdLhuSymWPePzCiCIS4FhyCz7Nr9im3ftyzJBUs/w320-h240/IMG_20210715_071630663.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Lots of drips. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I used an oscillating saw and sander to cut the drips off. I hate how much epoxy the drip-off method wastes. Next time I do this, I'll make edge molds. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisCJ-XPw61gYLsL9OPpOTKDykX7eqds8zQdv0udiU7s_nQvB_UJ7MHDCR7-xgKf5785_w5-Cmw-wmHP790P8LgsBK4H31qyZjtDeAluVVtjAYWcgs8kI3oP0gCOibyyv55TEO61Gi63ec/s4608/IMG_20210715_210307919_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisCJ-XPw61gYLsL9OPpOTKDykX7eqds8zQdv0udiU7s_nQvB_UJ7MHDCR7-xgKf5785_w5-Cmw-wmHP790P8LgsBK4H31qyZjtDeAluVVtjAYWcgs8kI3oP0gCOibyyv55TEO61Gi63ec/s320/IMG_20210715_210307919_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgzQmm8eA-LZZ0nKuHGKolxkpySm7Tccv0o58KKefn-Pecg9YZgKBXfD3Gf0D8SKh2pmU9-TorM9WBRl_BhHIAaqEUss9g-zAMtAdqspKmvkYMeEs0LZAcU25D6TeU3E_O6ncJWjZ9Hs/s1600/IMG_20210720_204349142.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgzQmm8eA-LZZ0nKuHGKolxkpySm7Tccv0o58KKefn-Pecg9YZgKBXfD3Gf0D8SKh2pmU9-TorM9WBRl_BhHIAaqEUss9g-zAMtAdqspKmvkYMeEs0LZAcU25D6TeU3E_O6ncJWjZ9Hs/s320/IMG_20210720_204349142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Mini-lathe has a home now!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Decided not to print rubber feet for it. I might build a plywood platform for it later if the mini-lathe feels too low. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Total time invested: ~32 hours</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Total cost: ~$250</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Other stuff:</div><div>Still cleaning and organizing my garage. I'm designing a workbench, and I'm planning to rip out the crappy cabinets soon that the previous owner left. I finally ran electricity to my 3D printer shelf and got the old printer running again...printed nonstop for about a week to catch up on the backlog. I'll get around to assembling CubeXY eventually. </div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-75606967874542213522020-12-31T15:25:00.004-05:002020-12-31T15:25:58.342-05:00A Thrifty Guide to Buying Tools<p>I have learned a lot about buying tools over the past 20 years, from working with my dad, involvement in many student clubs, my own hobbies, engineering research projects, and building up my garage shop. The goal of this guide is to organize my mental notes on thrifty tool-buying with the hope that it will help some people. If you have $1000's and want to buy a whole shop worth of tools in one go, this is not the guide for you. If you want to, or are in the process of, buying tools as you need them and are on a budget, this is the guide for you.</p><p>I've organized this post by general descriptions first, then a buyers guide at the end. </p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Space</h2><p>First, you need shop space in order to store your tools and use them. This might also be the most expensive tool/shop related thing you buy: land/square footage is expensive! If you're buying a house, make sure you have garage or basement that you can use for your shop, and that it is easy to access (some tools are large and heavy). When I was young, this was our basement. Now I have a garage, and since it's Florida, I only need to put a car in it if there's a hurricane. If you're in an apartment, you'll need a temporary multi-use space solutions, like a tool-closet, fold-down work bench, plastic sheeting for dust containment, etc. If you simply don't have room, you can rent storage units/garages with electricity and use those as a shop. If you're a school organization, get your own space from the school and fiercely protect it. More space is ALWAYS better. You can have the most efficient storage solutions in the world, and someone with more space will be able to organize their stuff better than you. I have a large-ish two car garage with 7.5ft ceilings, and I wish I had a four car garage with 14ft ceilings (though if I had that, I'd probably want even more space, haha). </p><p>The environment of your space is also important. Ideally, it should be climate controlled and a place that can get messy. AC is especially important in hot+humid environments. If it's too hot in your garage, you won't want to work in it. Humidity will cause iron and steel to rust, and since most tools have steel in them, most tools will rust in a humid shop. </p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Safety Gear</h2><div>Normally, safety is first, but since there's no point owning safety gear without a space for it, I talk about it second. My #2 safety rule: When you buy a tool, but the proper safety gear for it at the same time. My #1 safety rule: Wear proper PPE! PPE=Personal Protection Equipment, a.k.a. safety gear. At a minimum, you'll likely need safety glasses or goggles for eye protection, leather/work and latex/nitrile gloves for hand protection, dust masks for lung protection, and ear muffs or plugs for ear protection. Luckily, these are all pretty inexpensive. Other gear you might need: long pants, long sleeve shirt, long leather gloves, steel toe boots, hard hat, cut proof gloves, respirator with appropriate cartridges (dust masks don't catch VOCs!). There are many tool-specific PPE, such as welding helmets, sand blasting hoods, etc. Most tool manuals list the required PPE, so they're a good place to look to see what PPE you need to buy: consider it part of the tool cost. </div><div><br /></div><div>There's also non-personal safety gear. Some examples: A flammables cabinet is a good idea if you have a lot of flammables, e.g. acetone, gasoline, etc. Welding curtains are used to protect other peoples' eyes from welding arcs. Table saws should always be used with a riving knife or splitter installed to help prevent kick-back. Correct wavelength spec'd laser goggles are a must when operating a laser cutter. If a tool comes with a safety device, never remove it. </div><div><br /></div><div>You must also consider what you shouldn't wear when operating tools. For example, long hair should always be pulled back/put up when drilling (rip hair out), using a lathe (pulls your head into the lathe = death), welding (hair is flammable), etc. Jewelry should pretty much always be taken off. Don't wear leather gloves when operating drill presses, lathes, or mills (it's better to rip your skin than suck your hand in). </div><div><br /></div><div>When learning to use a power tool, it's a good idea to read/watch videos about common mistakes when using it. It's easier to not start a bad habit than to break one. This info will usually contain information about proper tool safety.</div><div><br /></div><div>Proper tool maintenance is also very important for safety. Don't try to use partially broken tools. </div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Hand Tools</h2><div>Finally, getting to the tools part of the tool guide. Hand tools are powered by hand and are an essential part of any shop. Examples of often used hand tools: flat, philips, torx, hex screw drivers, sockets + socket wrenches, crescent wrenches/spanners, adjustable wrenches, pliers (100's of types), hex/allen keys, hammers, saws, chisels, knives, stapler, caulk gun, clamps, tape measure, level, shears, etc. The exact ones you'll need are dependent on what you're doing of course, but if you're starting out, the general rule is that you'll never have the exact tool you need at the moment you need it. Another general rule is that, if you find something is very difficult to do, there is probably a better tool for the job and you should borrow/buy it (this goes for power tools, too). </div><div><br /></div><div>While you can wait to buy hand tools until you need them, they're usually cheap enough to buy in sets. For example, if you need a 1/2" socket, buy a whole socket set. If you need a philips screw driver, buy a whole set of screw drivers. This will save you money in the long run, and save time (trips to the hardware store). That being said, you don't need three socket sets or 20+ philips screw drivers because you'll never use them all. That's my current situation...merged household hand tool sets, I have them all organized now, but I need to purge some. </div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Power Tools</h2><p>Power tools are powered, usually by electricity. Commonly used power tools are: cordless drill and driver (yes, those are different, and you should have both), corded drill, circular saw, jig saw, table saw, miter saw, shop vacuum, palm/orbital sander, belt sander, disk sander, angle grinder (useful for far more than grinding angles), welders, etc. </p><p>Some power tools are pneumatic. The air supply is compressed with a compressor, which is electric powered, but the actual work done by the tools is done by the air. Some pneumatic tools are lighter/better than their electric counterparts. Common pneumatic tools: nailers, staplers, grinders, buffers, impact drivers/wrenches, socket wrenches, drills, hammers, paint sprayers, etc. </p><p>I suggest waiting to buy a power tool until you know you'll need it.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Machine Shop Tools</h2><p>Metal/machine shops often have much larger, more expensive tools. These include mills, lathes, metal brakes, drill presses, large band saws, etc. </p><p>Unless you're opening a machine shop business (in which case, this guide isn't for you anyways), you should wait to buy these until you need them, or if you stumble across a super good deal and think you might use one in the future. See below. </p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Electronics Tools</h2><div>Tools for working on electronic components include: multimeters (volt/ammeter), wire strippers, soldering iron, heat shrink heat gun, helping hands, fume extractor, power supplies, oscilloscopes, etc. Even if you aren't working on electronics, wire strippers and a multimeter are a great thing to have for general household troubleshooting.</div><h2>Workbenches</h2><div>An often overlooked, but necessary item, is the workbench. Unless you plan on doing everything on a floor, you'll need a workbench. They come in all shapes, sizes, and budgets. There are whole businesses, blogs, and even a subreddit devoted to them. The one you buy (or make!) is entirely dependent on what you plan to do with it. </div><div><br /></div><div>Basic workbenches are rectangular, consist of a solid top, and four legs. To make one on the cheap, you could buy a used wood table, a (folding) plastic table, or a solid core door and screw it to a couple of saw horses. You can make nicer ones, often with shelves or tool storage features, out of lumber, e.g. 2x4's, using the many free online plans. Or you can design your own to fit your needs. I'll be doing this soon. I'm going to make one with features to hold my table saw, router, miter saw, and band saw, and flat blanking plates to go in their places when I take the tools out to store them on the shelf underneath so I can have a large flat topped workbench when I don't need the tools. They can be rolling (with casters) or stationary. You can even buy leg kits, both metal or reinforced plastic, just supply the plywood for the top and possibly a shelf. I strongly suggest looking at pictures of what other people have done</div><div><br /></div><div>Woodworking workbenches are usually made from wood, and usually by the woodworker planning to use it as a right-of-passage. They have many features, such as vises and bench dogs, specific to working with wood. There are many free online plans for these. You can also buy them for $100's to $10,000's.</div><div><br /></div><div>Welding working workbenches are made of steel because the bench needs to be conductive. Again, making your welding workbench is usually a right-of-passage for beginner welders.</div><div><br /></div><div>Electronics work benches can be metal or wood, but they always have an ESD (electrostatic discharge) safe top surface. They usually have lots of outlets for convenient positioning of electronics equipment, and sometimes built in DC power supplies. </div><h2>Tool Storage and Organization</h2><p>Another often overlooked thing is how you're going to store and organize your tools. Piling them on top of each other on a shelf or in a bucket is not a good solution: it'll be hard to find a tool when you need it, and it's easier to break tools that way. Each tool should have a specific place. Workbenches often have cabinets/drawers for small power tools and hand tools. Free standing cabinets are good for larger power tools. Some people like displaying their tools with peg boards or French-cleat systems. Large, heavy tools should generally have a designated stationary place in your shop. </p><p>Like a workbench, you should try to get your storage and organization solution sorted before getting in too deep with tools. </p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Buying Guide</h2><p>So you've figured out what tool(s) you need and researched them. There are many good places to buy tools, and many bad ones, and it's usually dependent on what tool you're buying. </p><p>You can buy pretty much anything online, and it's often listed cheaper, but tools are usually heavy, and shipping on larger tools can be very expensive. You can also get scammed pretty easily, since you can't actually inspect the tool you're buying...buying from reputable people/websites is a must. Even if you get your money back from a scam, it's always a pain and a waste of time. Amazon often has decent deals, but you have to watch for knock-offs and where the tool is shipping from (overseas shipping can take months). You can get ok deals on new and used tools on eBay, but make sure to check the seller's location and feedback rating. Major hardware stores have online shops, and there are also many specialized tool websites. </p><p>Local places (USA) to buy tools include major hardware stores like Home Depot and Lowes. Don't forget ACE hardware: they may be smaller, but there are usually more of them, and they often carry many small/hard-to-find tools/items that the big hardware stores don't. These are great places to buy pretty much every hand tool you'll need, and most power tools. </p><p>There are also "cheap" tool stores, like Harbor Freight ("Harbor Fraud") and Northern Tool. These places sell lower quality tools for A LOT cheaper than other hardware stores, and often cheaper than you can buy online. All of the tools they sell cut corners in manufacturing and quality control. This can lead to huge safety problems (google "harbor freight car jack stands"), but usually just leads to wasted money. Their website ratings are also inflated: if you see a rating less than 4 stars, assume the tool is worthless. Things I would/will never again buy from Harbor Freight: air tools (other than a paint sprayer), things holding a lot of weight (car jack stands, engine cranes), electronic test equipment, needle nose pliers (had a set that I could bend with my hands). Some things that are good to buy from harbor freight: super glue, sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, drill bits, sand blasting media, angle grinder disks, tarps, furniture dollys, paint brushes, etc. If it's a very simple item, chances are better that they didn't screw up making it. This is only true if you aren't using these tools anywhere near their limits. For example, I have broken harbor freight crescent wrenches and sockets before, but only in high torque applications. Don't expect their drill bits to be able to drill through hardened steel. I've been too scared to buy many of their power tools, so I can't speak to those, but reviews seem to be mixed: some power tools are good, some aren't. Generally, you can find online reviews (text or videos) by googling "harbor freight" + the tool name. Be warned though, these "cheap" tool places aren't always cheap. I've found better deals at home depot and walmart before. Examples: T-squares were cheaper and better quality at home depot, and lithium grease tubes were cheaper at walmart. I strongly suggest checking prices and reviews before buying anything from stores like these.</p><p>Speaking of walmart, stores like Target and Walmart can be good places to find basic tools, and they're usually reasonably priced. </p><p>Don't buy tools at flea markets. The new ones are almost always cruddy imported junk. The used ones are usually worn out, and if not, are usually priced higher than than they would be on craigslist. Garage sales can be ok, if you can find the tools hidden by all the other junk, but can also be a huge waste of time. </p><p>My favorite place to buy tools is local classified ads, like craigslist/facebook marketplace. If you're patient and in a decently populated area, almost every tool imaginable will eventually pop up, and you can get some incredible deals. Workbenches, storage solutions, and safety gear, too. The item is local, which means no shipping, and you can inspect it before buying. However, you need to already know what your looking for and the information about the tool when you go to buy it (but you should know that stuff anyways since you're planning to buy it). Inspecting it is important...there are a lot of scammers. The pictures will usually you show you what kind of condition it is in, but inspect it carefully when you go to buy it. If the person sounds sketchy when messaging them, don't bother. If you're handy, you can get amazing deals on broken tools (even get them for free) and fix them yourself. I did this with my air compressor: I bought three partially working, similar craftsman air compressors. Fixed one, sold it, used another for parts, and got the third fully working. Ended up costing me about $0, not including my time. But if you're patient enough, and quick about messaging the seller, you can get amazing deals on fully working (sometimes new) tools, too: I've scored a big, fully working table saw for $25, and a mini metal lathe for $100. I've also bought a tool I know I'll need, then end up reselling it for the same price (or more) because I found a better one or better deal later. As long as you only buy good deals and don't wreck the tool after you buy it, you won't lose money this way (only time driving around), because the used tool price has already bottomed out. Craigslist/FB marketplace are also great places to buy collections of tools if you're starting out, like toolboxes full of hand tools: you get your storage solution, screw drivers, sockets, wrenches, etc all in one go for much much less than you could buy them new. And new tools from "cheap" tool stores (see above) are often worse quality than used, good-quality/brand tools, so don't always assume new is better. </p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Final Thoughts</h2><div>I hope this guide was useful to you. Good luck and have fun buying tools!</div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-26032121770442286182020-12-31T11:27:00.002-05:002020-12-31T11:27:46.422-05:00Refurbishing an Antique Metal Workbench<p> This is one of those projects that I massively underestimated...</p><p>I won an antique metal work bench in an auction for $50 (along with the tooling cabinet I showed in a previous post). </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5K7u898LRbV_kLaE_cDW6v-ncImRmt4TYpR3CL0ZGLew_IDrHSwVa3uU1VWO8Js4QItwu7ktHu7DujFOv5LtItV3p2W8ErU3dojlP7dZG9GP2NNSV95GgeZSURFe9mRgRrvNsXtOHSbA/s4608/IMG_20201103_201500199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5K7u898LRbV_kLaE_cDW6v-ncImRmt4TYpR3CL0ZGLew_IDrHSwVa3uU1VWO8Js4QItwu7ktHu7DujFOv5LtItV3p2W8ErU3dojlP7dZG9GP2NNSV95GgeZSURFe9mRgRrvNsXtOHSbA/w400-h300/IMG_20201103_201500199.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />With drawers removed</div><br /><p>Pretty sure it was a Craftsman because of the dark gray paint + red drawers, along with the fastener type. It was stuffed with metal chips, rusty, a drawer was jammed, bent up, and the MDF top was soaked in machining coolant. Also had a bunch of bolts/nuts in it, as well as an almost complete Crescent-brand wrench set, which was a nice bonus.</p><p>I removed the top and threw it away. I made a new one by cutting two 3/4" plywood rectangles with a circular saw, then bonding them together with wood glue, using temporary short screws and clamps to apply pressure. I then evened-out and rounded the edges with a palm sander. </p><p>(pic)</p><p>I had the plywood and glue already, and the screws were cheap. This part took about 3 hours. I'm planning to do a white or grey epoxy coat on top. I really like epoxy tops for work benches; it's durable and easy to repair: fill holes with putty, sand, re-pour epoxy. </p><p>I then disassembled it. Took lots of pics so I would be able to put it back together. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOIctJdwT1GGvEIgAmJMBS7hZ3QqLdPqr_TG3NzKP3y2kgOlYR34XbA8nyDDQE4TgFl4_U_xH_e_SVWDbL39bv6TiERkSDlXmEIY6SICx2hJYxUioZCACuHpRrVfF99wnrKs18j_2Y9cw/s4608/IMG_20201103_201454013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOIctJdwT1GGvEIgAmJMBS7hZ3QqLdPqr_TG3NzKP3y2kgOlYR34XbA8nyDDQE4TgFl4_U_xH_e_SVWDbL39bv6TiERkSDlXmEIY6SICx2hJYxUioZCACuHpRrVfF99wnrKs18j_2Y9cw/s320/IMG_20201103_201454013.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGdNFdEFqSWG6SuLg7eLa3sJWbg4IBrtVKD0_OVbINnIrIIQ0Xwk8hOwHSexW37IXlwgdkNzaWYYuPVNrDSrmYUJnB5LITWHfmVJ4Iv_jWuAgryu3tzws_fQSGOqia9U_2VTMQOKlieiw/s4608/IMG_20201103_203047770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGdNFdEFqSWG6SuLg7eLa3sJWbg4IBrtVKD0_OVbINnIrIIQ0Xwk8hOwHSexW37IXlwgdkNzaWYYuPVNrDSrmYUJnB5LITWHfmVJ4Iv_jWuAgryu3tzws_fQSGOqia9U_2VTMQOKlieiw/s320/IMG_20201103_203047770.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next step was pressure washing all the gunk off, which took about an hour. This also stripped off some of the paint. It's not like I could make it much rustier, so I just let the parts air dry. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3pqJvqsqhxvsOCs5X7HQCe5muJoDLFlD1WONNPHWLepqVdU9crXYRVFUYiyGcK2v4KUW0_VztXNpSRqgn2Yh8KAs9Bw3KPhT44GnwdkItxsbgzz9SDErhuSPGKEaonSWrsqyVv3Kw8E/s4608/IMG_20201105_093347684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3pqJvqsqhxvsOCs5X7HQCe5muJoDLFlD1WONNPHWLepqVdU9crXYRVFUYiyGcK2v4KUW0_VztXNpSRqgn2Yh8KAs9Bw3KPhT44GnwdkItxsbgzz9SDErhuSPGKEaonSWrsqyVv3Kw8E/s320/IMG_20201105_093347684.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Then I took a two month break from working on it. The next step was sandblasting and grinding all of the rust and loose paint off. I started with sandblasting with soda with my little hand held gravity fed sand blaster, but it's not really powerful enough to get scale off, even with glass beads instead of soda. I ended up switching to a wire brush on an angle grinder for everything except hard-to-reach places. This strategy worked well on the <a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2020/09/new-house-new-garage.html">heavily rusted air tank</a>, and it worked well for this, too. I didn't take any pics of this step, but I set up a large plastic tarp on some saw horses to kind of form a bowl to contain the blasting soda and paint/rust flakes. Super messy. Essential safety gear: arm-length leather gloves, face mask, goggles, face shield/hood, long sleeve shirt, jeans. Total time for this step was about 6 hours. I wore out a wire brush and used about 10lbs of soda, so total cost was around $15. </p><p>I didn't strip off paint that looked well-adhered, but I kind of wish I had. After stripping, I used a hammer and vise-grips to straighten, flatten, rebend, etc. all of the parts. I then wiped everything down with a damp cloth, and then with denatured alcohol to get the grime off. The alcohol would dissolve some of the paint I didn't strip off and make leave streaks, which was annoying. I should have spent the extra ~hour to grind off all of the paint I could reach. I then taped off the drawer handles, door hinges, and lock. These steps took about 2 hours. I went through a lot of shop rags. Results: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqKUIM2lWbjzPcaqJJyGrfu2PKRSAoX3L_4gfwaGWp2q3WFb7dmfRN_VGYEcT3qPS53vpfmEFFb1ZNdj60lpRkakbGKkdzSLagCX0AyswKCpA7rURNltdVq6XxKRokZ1P3bXUj_zp4xCk/s4608/IMG_20201229_110027982.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqKUIM2lWbjzPcaqJJyGrfu2PKRSAoX3L_4gfwaGWp2q3WFb7dmfRN_VGYEcT3qPS53vpfmEFFb1ZNdj60lpRkakbGKkdzSLagCX0AyswKCpA7rURNltdVq6XxKRokZ1P3bXUj_zp4xCk/w400-h300/IMG_20201229_110027982.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />Prepping for paint</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh52AczlSSvqZ5gMvyxl_GaLAlMCqXDyILUfbmh2RCwI7Cc9QEyNiHluTc7IkFTuSeMHobWQcuQeCQdTT7oLSFOLwXmiGngaAtUegb-TfNQem6BVTLobhzhiw51egW0YrQuBvNDo_ZFVvU/s4608/IMG_20201229_110034060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh52AczlSSvqZ5gMvyxl_GaLAlMCqXDyILUfbmh2RCwI7Cc9QEyNiHluTc7IkFTuSeMHobWQcuQeCQdTT7oLSFOLwXmiGngaAtUegb-TfNQem6BVTLobhzhiw51egW0YrQuBvNDo_ZFVvU/w400-h300/IMG_20201229_110034060.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Table saw and old shop-vac make an appearance</div><p>This was my first time using a paint spray gun. I bought a harbor freight air powered purple HVLP gun for $10 (on sale, normally $16). It comes with a gravity feed 20 oz cup and 1.4mm nozzle. I used it to anti-rust primer everything, as well as paint everything gloss black (except the drawers and drawer slides). The drawer slides I left primer-ed, and tried not to get primer in the tracks, which will be greased anyways, so shouldn't rust. I sanded all of the primer with 220 grit sandpaper. This was very necessary, the primer ended up being pretty rough. I decided to spray paint the drawers "regal red' (pretty close to craftsman red) with a rattle can, ended up using 3 cans. With the sprayer, I used one whole 32 oz can of primer and [will end up using] one whole 32 oz can of gloss black.</p><p>My thoughts on spraying vs rattle cans: Paint spray guns are nice. You can get a very consistent spray, and you can spray a lot more paint, faster than with a rattle can. The paint is also cheaper than rattle cans. One 32oz can of paint will cover about 5x the area that a rattle can can. Rattle cans are about 12oz, but about half of that is propellant. A 32oz can of paint is $9-10, while a rattle can is about $4-6, so the spray gun paint is about 2-3x cheaper, more so if bought by the gallon. However, spray guns have some major downsides: You have to buy the spray gun. You also need a large volume compressor (mine's 63 gal, 6HP, and it could just barely keep up with continuous spraying), a hose, and regulator to run it. The spray guns also clog fairly easily, but I luckily haven't had a clog yet, probably because I filtered my paint and cleaned mine regularly. Paint filtering is a pain, especially primer, which tends to clog the filters. The paint filters are cheap luckily, as was the stand to hold the gun and filter (actually more than the gun, which was also cheap) during paint filtering. I started with 120 mesh, but it was way too slow, so switched to 60 mesh, which might let particles large enough to clog the gun through, but it is what it is. You also might need to thin the paint, depending on what it is. I thinned the oil-based paint a little with acetone. Latex paint has to be thinned a lot, with water, to use in a spray gun. Cleaning them is a pain, takes about 10 minutes, and requires a lot of acetone, gloves, and shop rags. You have to wipe out the cup with acetone soaked rags, and if you don't get all of the old paint out, it will dry and cause clogs, or mix with your new paint causing your color to be wrong. You also have to clean the cup's threads, the internal filter, the spray gun nozzle, needle, and spray gun body. You're supposed to disassemble the whole gun to clean the insides, but I haven't done that because harbor freight stopped including (and never sold) the super thin 19mm wrench required to take the nozzle off/needle out. Instead, I just spray a few ounces of acetone through it into a box after cleaning it. The result of all of this is a bag of trash after every use. I wiped the nozzle on mine and left it sitting with paint in the cup for about 4 hours once, and it didn't clog, but I don't think I would let it sit for longer than that without emptying the paint cup and running acetone through it. Did that and left it over night a couple times, no problem. I suggest a full clean if it'll sit longer than 12 hours. Because spray guns use compressed air to atomize the paint, they move a lot of air, which means that any dust within about 5 ft of what your painting will end up in the paint. Also Florida bugs love paint, ugh. Rattle cans don't move as much air, so dust is less of a problem, and since they are disposable, you don't have to worry about cleaning them, except maybe flipping them over for a few short bursts of propellant to clean the nozzle. Final conclusions: </p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>If you already have a spray gun, stand, filters, cleaning supplies, large compressor, regulator, and hose, then it's worth the effort to use the sprayer if your project will use greater than about 5 rattle cans worth of paint. For example, I plan on re-staining/sealing my wood fence and deck eventually - that will be a good project to use the sprayer on due to the large volume of sealer needed and long-duration sprays. </li><li>If you already have the large compressor, but not the spray gun, stand, filters, cleaning supplies, and don't plan on doing many large paint projects, I suggest buying cases of rattle cans up to about 12 cans...over that, probably worth getting the spray gun.</li><li>If you don't have the large compressor or any of the spraying equipment, use rattle cans up to about 12 cans. If you're doing a large paint project, you can buy a decent airless sprayer for about $100. They have the same clogging and cleaning downsides, but they're cheaper than a full compressor set up (unless you're in to repairing old tools like me). </li></ol><p></p><p>I found out about the dust and bugs problems the hard way...first coats of black on the frame ended up covered in dust and bugs:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1kxvCj2GhyphenhyphenRAVJVrLskwGABe6SNDRaxqHS9mbT_4b4K36yNXDjy_Whp4DWdmDUrwSQQ_Ttc2wihYJE-UE98ghX8QL6WD5XYzQfVgXTvzi9hcTJC7YD84rjZTdND1wYh62SuTy1BnunTE/s4608/IMG_20201230_174421459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1kxvCj2GhyphenhyphenRAVJVrLskwGABe6SNDRaxqHS9mbT_4b4K36yNXDjy_Whp4DWdmDUrwSQQ_Ttc2wihYJE-UE98ghX8QL6WD5XYzQfVgXTvzi9hcTJC7YD84rjZTdND1wYh62SuTy1BnunTE/s320/IMG_20201230_174421459.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7fHx5zSCZ_DjslCNysbMPW3oaYEyI_lsDRuEYS75GyyOP0pqkG2tqBcHavheHLFIPJnii25E178lBIOEIFR2o71ZLA75Jb8T24SerkTYJOGZz2bBUrQMyzDJ7HteBqPNrxmcLVuu1rY/s4608/IMG_20201230_202444495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7fHx5zSCZ_DjslCNysbMPW3oaYEyI_lsDRuEYS75GyyOP0pqkG2tqBcHavheHLFIPJnii25E178lBIOEIFR2o71ZLA75Jb8T24SerkTYJOGZz2bBUrQMyzDJ7HteBqPNrxmcLVuu1rY/w300-h400/IMG_20201230_202444495.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />Speckled...eww</div><p>I painted the sides I wouldn't see first in case something went wrong, but it still sucks. I'm taking a break from the project at this point...really stopped being fun. Eventually, I'll sand all the parts down after the paint hardens and try again, maybe with the parts standing up and only doing the top halves, then flipping them over, so I'm not painting near the ground. I finished the drawers (rattle cans), though, and they came out nice.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-qj46ngwZEXxOb7uxSdQCm4qTXGSAgJoKsoNn65miUOcWglieO2AePDY0xJ4XA37DR28iSSj5yooOjx-yn3EP1PhVzAH4KYlVnjaoefHzEnKQGwVyHWVoSpPns6LWEhE88-oSyQ6cXEU/s4608/IMG_20201230_133243799.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-qj46ngwZEXxOb7uxSdQCm4qTXGSAgJoKsoNn65miUOcWglieO2AePDY0xJ4XA37DR28iSSj5yooOjx-yn3EP1PhVzAH4KYlVnjaoefHzEnKQGwVyHWVoSpPns6LWEhE88-oSyQ6cXEU/w400-h300/IMG_20201230_133243799.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>I have about 4 hours invested so far in the painting, about $35 of paint, and about $50 in supplies, including the spray gun. It'll probably take another 5 hours or so to finish painting, will update this post when I work on it again.</p><p>Estimated total cost and time: ~$150 and 25 hours. Working min wage, I could have afforded ~2x new work benches for the time and money I've put into this one. That's not really the point, though, it's all about the love of the craft...<span style="font-size: x-small;">yeah</span>....<span style="font-size: xx-small;">sure... Note to self: </span><span style="font-size: large;">Don't do a project like this again.</span></p><p>At least I learned a lot, and I will have a really nice work bench by the end of it. </p><p>To do:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Sand paint, finish painting black</li><li>Re-assemble</li><li>Epoxy top</li><li>3D print TPU rubber feet to prevent steel bottoms from scraping/rusting. </li></ul><p></p>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-67821864252354358312020-12-21T16:08:00.004-05:002020-12-21T17:11:02.968-05:00Homelab/Cluster update<p>The cluster is no more. I sold off the compute nodes and the sound proof cabinet for an embarrassingly low sum, but the guy was local, so I didn't have to figure out how to ship any of it. I kept the FDR infiniband system and the headnode, the former because I plan to build a new cluster eventually, the latter because it makes a decent desktop. </p><p>CentOS 7 is now ancient to the point where I'm having trouble installing new software on it, so I updated the desktop's OS CentOS 8 Stream. There's a lot of controversy surrounding RedHat's decision to go to "stream" (continuously updating) rather than long term support, which was one of the key features of CentOS in the past. I like CentOS, so I figured I'd try the stream version out. </p><p>First thing I did was create a tar.gz of /etc, /home, and all the configuration files I could think of. I moved that to the RAID1 drives. <br /></p><p>I created the DVD installer USB by following the instructions on the CentOS website. Like previous versions, the only way I could get it to not fail the media test upon boot was to dd the iso to the USB drive twice. The installer also didn't like my hardware RAID drives...caused it to crash, so I had to unplug those (probably a good idea to do anyways). Then it installed fine. </p><p>I like the new GUI. CentOS still has problems with wifi adapters, though. The 300N one I have is recognized but refuses to connect to any network, so I had to go back to the old penguin 150 N . That one sometimes causes CentOS to crash if I pull it out, and sometimes I lose wifi if I plug in another USB device. *shrug . At least it mostly works. </p><p>There's a new software I want to try that requires CUDA, so I installed that following <a href="https://docs.nvidia.com/cuda/cuda-installation-guide-linux/index.html">this</a> guide. I copied over the samples directory to a directory in my home folder and chown'd it. I was able to make and run many of the samples, but I wanted to try some of the simulation samples, which require cuFFT and OpenGL. OpenGL is part of the NVIDIA driver. I followed NVIDIA's guide for installing cuFFT; my original GTX Titan GPU just barely meets the minimum requirement for that. I also had to follow the directions under "Install Third-party Libraries" because I didn't have all of those. Once I had all of that, the simulation samples built. Very cool. </p><p>When I went to plug the HDD's from the RAID1 data array back in, the LSI raid controller thought it was degraded. I could still mount one of the drives in centos and see the files. The full LSI software raid utility interface isn't available in the version of the BIOS I have...not sure why, but doing ctrl + M like the motherboard manual says to do doesn't do anything and the only LSI interface I have is a very limited one inside the BIOS. It's missing many of the commands that the manual says it should have. One of the missing ones is rebuilding an array. What I ended up doing was deleting the virtual drive configuration and recreating an identical one with both drives, and then NOT initializing the array. I saved and exited the BIOS, then booted into CentOS. I was then able to mount the array as before and see the data. So I'm not sure what happened there, but this method will allow me to "rebuild" a RAID1 array. I hate this utility; definitely need to buy hardware RAID controllers for future server work. <br /></p><p> </p>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-12195415786428920882020-09-25T16:01:00.001-04:002020-09-25T16:01:27.667-04:00Quick, easy, cheap sprinkler guards<p>The new house has a sprinkler system. Ended up having to replace 3 heads because they'd been chewed up by edgers/mowers, so I decided to do something about that. I don't like the concrete rings...they're bulky, wide, hard to cut into partial rings, you can't adjust their depth (they sit on the ground) so if the sprinkler head is taller than them, then they don't work, etc. </p><p>I ended up buying a 10ft piece of 4" PVC "gravity sewer pipe" and using a miter saw to cut it into ~5-6" long pieces. It's schedule 10, so pretty thin, which makes it easier to hammer into the ground to the depth needed for each sprinkler. I did this with a piece of wood on top of them and a 4lb sledge hammer. I even cut some into partial rings for places where a full ring wouldn't fit, like when a sprinkler head was up against something concrete, e.g. driveway. Bonus: the pipe is green, so it doesn't look bad in the yard.</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsi26L9HGddmnYfO52ORuqYck2jI83e1qCbcq9I_cooMp-ddBtoOsb0_PuQ8bLdpkp5wrK6rELPmwyFYMxPxmvp8Sx-PEFuPU-uSjjz0_fWOg5x4dH0KuIGlvX61MN0tl8q5bnnMX81k/s4608/IMG_20200922_124934457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsi26L9HGddmnYfO52ORuqYck2jI83e1qCbcq9I_cooMp-ddBtoOsb0_PuQ8bLdpkp5wrK6rELPmwyFYMxPxmvp8Sx-PEFuPU-uSjjz0_fWOg5x4dH0KuIGlvX61MN0tl8q5bnnMX81k/s320/IMG_20200922_124934457.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIihW4pnyswvX84pfEUzRdH3QTpf7cAf-1ygIPDnQH_tI6e9rX3ct4hziJoPJePe-N0jqnW1IYOzkzpaFbNY154dRFqvFXwKDk7JnRnqzIWeFpbNdu89qTUoqpXni-3yi9Fl2CZXxuxs/s4608/IMG_20200922_124928082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIihW4pnyswvX84pfEUzRdH3QTpf7cAf-1ygIPDnQH_tI6e9rX3ct4hziJoPJePe-N0jqnW1IYOzkzpaFbNY154dRFqvFXwKDk7JnRnqzIWeFpbNdu89qTUoqpXni-3yi9Fl2CZXxuxs/s320/IMG_20200922_124928082.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8DcdSCRyciJw6mXr_PgpDlW6a7JneXfcmU7UskxSFjKEB-ZkQOUPX7V1cRXTwGKhYI7YUcfuJct-gTy-1aQwNtuNHMElmX7kcZI2QG37v4g3CoDs4h24Mh2VzTzJYXF-NdEQHULOfKs/s320/IMG_20200922_124953279.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Partial ring<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />I think they look better than concrete rings. They're cheaper, too. Win-win-win<br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8DcdSCRyciJw6mXr_PgpDlW6a7JneXfcmU7UskxSFjKEB-ZkQOUPX7V1cRXTwGKhYI7YUcfuJct-gTy-1aQwNtuNHMElmX7kcZI2QG37v4g3CoDs4h24Mh2VzTzJYXF-NdEQHULOfKs/s4608/IMG_20200922_124953279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span></a></p>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-83668979898936966412020-09-25T15:49:00.005-04:002020-12-31T10:05:03.780-05:00New house, new garageUgh, 4 months since the last update. Lots of stuff going on. We bought a new house, and I've finally started to put the garage together. I've been cleaning, painting the walls, purging junk, unpacking, setting up shelves, etc. <div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgKfSQQs3wLw6uZe-jevuQeQXBMJL_JQ0D6bKlOovAyxlGrypWDrsHANRm0P2Evq3nh1EoDjCBPcBuShXr3CCqL1vIQWuQDLyyWFAiaGuhTGOd0Nthu1PwNNWxZLuj61_bZWC1fj9Xzqs/s4608/IMG_20200925_105500426.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgKfSQQs3wLw6uZe-jevuQeQXBMJL_JQ0D6bKlOovAyxlGrypWDrsHANRm0P2Evq3nh1EoDjCBPcBuShXr3CCqL1vIQWuQDLyyWFAiaGuhTGOd0Nthu1PwNNWxZLuj61_bZWC1fj9Xzqs/w400-h300/IMG_20200925_105500426.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These made it pretty much unscathed. Time to restart assembly of CubeXY!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj92_wFx-n0iCSsgdWtCN8wMJ-h1r-fZjPCcOPfc-lzMnMosEhLbfr-DzM6ZJBCTQroWGBsoKvAPOvPL4x9-4e1KSeMOLXJ7VsUIdpMXfHkVZG7TgduODHIrSQssyJG5Q030zRSnV5_LCE/s4608/IMG_20200925_105523020.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj92_wFx-n0iCSsgdWtCN8wMJ-h1r-fZjPCcOPfc-lzMnMosEhLbfr-DzM6ZJBCTQroWGBsoKvAPOvPL4x9-4e1KSeMOLXJ7VsUIdpMXfHkVZG7TgduODHIrSQssyJG5Q030zRSnV5_LCE/w400-h300/IMG_20200925_105523020.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the rockets didn't make it...oops.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>We had a lot of tools, but I purchased some more, mainly off of craigslist or fb marketplace. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfEG5qBFlMKdh5EPee0GUozLKb4sQO0GbtF1OeGbocgbLi6ui_iHdOivq9Pc9vBbfBMngK8qyoGzeXI-P5Kg50hZ698t08vsB9X4qRtz01qaU84cLS5h4xDIm8hrAYcEpyIR1Grifxnhg/s4608/IMG_20200925_105607524.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfEG5qBFlMKdh5EPee0GUozLKb4sQO0GbtF1OeGbocgbLi6ui_iHdOivq9Pc9vBbfBMngK8qyoGzeXI-P5Kg50hZ698t08vsB9X4qRtz01qaU84cLS5h4xDIm8hrAYcEpyIR1Grifxnhg/w300-h400/IMG_20200925_105607524.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mini hydraulic press, pressure washer<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4JJrV3dAPqEkLxpiMIi20dJmaIGhw3Gn68TNDdZjn2anGW7kSjadVTGwGRaRAL0WV_Wrh71U6mrUkealrovU0vqqHMIGALMtP-6pre_mOSknY8u_VsGLbRmVNSOjvbmRLDmJbI88i2cc/s4608/IMG_20200925_105642475.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4JJrV3dAPqEkLxpiMIi20dJmaIGhw3Gn68TNDdZjn2anGW7kSjadVTGwGRaRAL0WV_Wrh71U6mrUkealrovU0vqqHMIGALMtP-6pre_mOSknY8u_VsGLbRmVNSOjvbmRLDmJbI88i2cc/w300-h400/IMG_20200925_105642475.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wet tile saw<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLi-EByaAvw7CnqUYpRWrBqFAlM2i7VR0wjiZZdhrjcAyy8KZo00uBTz-6ilVEcnHCSQ8UgPxd0P1jN7qNjYNfloSYjWL5_ZP8ij7YgyNljnKbwI-YDDA5ArLIkXZKl6co6zNTe-c3F44/s4608/IMG_20200925_105629776.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLi-EByaAvw7CnqUYpRWrBqFAlM2i7VR0wjiZZdhrjcAyy8KZo00uBTz-6ilVEcnHCSQ8UgPxd0P1jN7qNjYNfloSYjWL5_ZP8ij7YgyNljnKbwI-YDDA5ArLIkXZKl6co6zNTe-c3F44/s320/IMG_20200925_105629776.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's a table saw under there</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOI021jvMuOURRfUjSYjD2ER5puxM7IBpgrh9rk9TWTXT1LGrKVj8yaXFXfVaVoTuJHUXLE3U-KAGCUXTvcwJK7ItUToY4XqnFB15fJfEBRHPCRTxSVu6Jv9WRiua0B0tW94-A8xVOLS8/s4608/IMG_20200925_105617128.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOI021jvMuOURRfUjSYjD2ER5puxM7IBpgrh9rk9TWTXT1LGrKVj8yaXFXfVaVoTuJHUXLE3U-KAGCUXTvcwJK7ItUToY4XqnFB15fJfEBRHPCRTxSVu6Jv9WRiua0B0tW94-A8xVOLS8/w300-h400/IMG_20200925_105617128.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tooling cabinet I got from a machine shop auction.<br /><br /><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px;"></blockquote></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9-2ssJx9FN50HudEd3aCvI_zDrD7Y08Us-4E7NvrkP7pl4UrVDvx2Mbd92Cz-nWkhwIUQlbvEd5WZL9HjieOCQAK6sFyimOcNt6J15gcj3f02sYzf8tGUMqhteng6-nhpemaLez7KunY/s4608/IMG_20200925_105653765.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9-2ssJx9FN50HudEd3aCvI_zDrD7Y08Us-4E7NvrkP7pl4UrVDvx2Mbd92Cz-nWkhwIUQlbvEd5WZL9HjieOCQAK6sFyimOcNt6J15gcj3f02sYzf8tGUMqhteng6-nhpemaLez7KunY/s320/IMG_20200925_105653765.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bins full of metal stock and tooling that was in the cabinet.<br />I'll be replacing these cabinets/workbench later.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Et4O5jt5hNbx8Rmbd-wraMEGgGY2e6RWhrZ-mCRpUYeZ1uJnGhpylvA_ChbSjQGuavOqzpaJk4g9Vkg_WARmfE5AjUo0rk2ugVW-LRkTYlQD1-N1zk7E8ATY3lPu9NnIQCEHBA6Rxus/s4608/IMG_20200925_105613981.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Et4O5jt5hNbx8Rmbd-wraMEGgGY2e6RWhrZ-mCRpUYeZ1uJnGhpylvA_ChbSjQGuavOqzpaJk4g9Vkg_WARmfE5AjUo0rk2ugVW-LRkTYlQD1-N1zk7E8ATY3lPu9NnIQCEHBA6Rxus/w300-h400/IMG_20200925_105613981.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Got a great deal on this Kennedy Toolbox<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj290TLvDAZSLaKIQKl7uSWUZ_9LfG7NgKs_79zUzGnO3pRdOW7FSb8SCX2Phd-HtWxvdcK7ND3G_1ZqjPkNLzw7UhJhcZoWTnQg3nooHJzAcazlNLzfLB5qsvzr34ry99W_2TZWDdldOM/s4608/IMG_20200925_105603916.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj290TLvDAZSLaKIQKl7uSWUZ_9LfG7NgKs_79zUzGnO3pRdOW7FSb8SCX2Phd-HtWxvdcK7ND3G_1ZqjPkNLzw7UhJhcZoWTnQg3nooHJzAcazlNLzfLB5qsvzr34ry99W_2TZWDdldOM/w300-h400/IMG_20200925_105603916.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's a craftsman bandsaw under there that I need <br />to reassemble. Bought new bolts for it.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLaZeCWubKjs4gP2pfpz_vYE5DVRnj9j10hFVZrClva_27d_lwR_4lNr1tLaDTYb8xAHUVQ_6Y0JK8J38t89ZggnARwpb9nlQSL3QwKmAqtG1D0kL-MuOx9l4GNR8SniwkrsXrvv3cyTo/s4608/IMG_20200925_105556421.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLaZeCWubKjs4gP2pfpz_vYE5DVRnj9j10hFVZrClva_27d_lwR_4lNr1tLaDTYb8xAHUVQ_6Y0JK8J38t89ZggnARwpb9nlQSL3QwKmAqtG1D0kL-MuOx9l4GNR8SniwkrsXrvv3cyTo/w300-h400/IMG_20200925_105556421.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">32" radial drill press that I decided I don't really need and am trying to sell.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6M_yl6C4G-YJ7pG3gys5kAi5-C2BgGsqY_m5zM6st3R-kvW6pyMTsdTISFWtmJ7yh0jPJw7WbXf9Tm55w7uEecZxxAJZTVua6vcxCwWmNHwt0OUwiT7wADwLTuVVBfWLXhQ9N5zbQwc4/s4608/IMG_20200925_105549360.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6M_yl6C4G-YJ7pG3gys5kAi5-C2BgGsqY_m5zM6st3R-kvW6pyMTsdTISFWtmJ7yh0jPJw7WbXf9Tm55w7uEecZxxAJZTVua6vcxCwWmNHwt0OUwiT7wADwLTuVVBfWLXhQ9N5zbQwc4/w300-h400/IMG_20200925_105549360.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice floor standing drill press.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKJJ_iVvFUjtgr7iNH6ulsT2kl1BqUKLeJAZzVOODXxPNHs7-DsDRi-DEe2wT7PgVOwyvMyIunLn3gqgtFE0gianObEwquHM6-Kl0vwAzU4Kxgy-kMb6TYoHXr0NY7EfM7vUlDaytsRRE/s4608/IMG_20200925_105401925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzq_yXrt1wJ5vkruN9-RMZ7vOZ59wtSkNCYpJnvZYEF2HAQ9hoAbtXKPnMkA5pdTI524LPVoTX2muy89GE-6-Ijzdk-u_cOOTzwFs6CCgo4KMZ5OqeciZJEi5K4Th0SYvT2kkIbbCGzVw/w400-h300/IMG_20200925_105333364.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;" width="400" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">33 gal, 6HP compressor. New regulator, made the handle out of <br />PVC+wooden dowel. The plastic cover came off another one. </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Lots of good stuff. The compressor didn't come with a handle, and the regulator was broken. It also didn't have the plastic pump cover, but I luckily found a very similar era one on FB marketplace for $30. Took the cover from that. I had already made the PVC handle, but I'll keep the metal handle. The $30 actually worked, despite being super rusty. Turns out that 9/10 of the parts are compatible, so I stripped them all of for spares: <br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKJJ_iVvFUjtgr7iNH6ulsT2kl1BqUKLeJAZzVOODXxPNHs7-DsDRi-DEe2wT7PgVOwyvMyIunLn3gqgtFE0gianObEwquHM6-Kl0vwAzU4Kxgy-kMb6TYoHXr0NY7EfM7vUlDaytsRRE/w400-h300/IMG_20200925_105401925.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;" width="400" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spare compressor parts</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>That left the tank...eek. Very rusty. I really didn't want to make a bomb. Hydro-static testing is fairly safe because water is basically incompressible. As long as you get all of the air out, there won't be much stored energy in the tank. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVUXfVEnxFakzpqZumTFp3jS7JsS67Kway-fZpzfCaSGxWtiluY7U145pNMVa-47HEe2yl1qovPp7JIXll9IXBFXuyk7fkS0djKFEUThAZ2Y9YqpqJ75oRxQ1i_PpifMsL1eZuJRg8SA/s4608/IMG_20200925_105349606.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVUXfVEnxFakzpqZumTFp3jS7JsS67Kway-fZpzfCaSGxWtiluY7U145pNMVa-47HEe2yl1qovPp7JIXll9IXBFXuyk7fkS0djKFEUThAZ2Y9YqpqJ75oRxQ1i_PpifMsL1eZuJRg8SA/w400-h300/IMG_20200925_105349606.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of rust...the inside was worse.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhroioSywPgTeSzRM361H5snclaqfYqUOnbwQfMdKfHuIJRlVQXxIrxcjIydYPL0IRLUieptJ1VYI6E_VHupwrxtVaaxYGNtFFGEWv7DHAgxudlXjUJqZhMtl2mQGfrp8ovhonpG7JV_1U/s4608/IMG_20200925_093902326.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhroioSywPgTeSzRM361H5snclaqfYqUOnbwQfMdKfHuIJRlVQXxIrxcjIydYPL0IRLUieptJ1VYI6E_VHupwrxtVaaxYGNtFFGEWv7DHAgxudlXjUJqZhMtl2mQGfrp8ovhonpG7JV_1U/w300-h400/IMG_20200925_093902326.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Filling with garden hose after plugging the other two holes. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipKTk4rCvxuNyiK-mWZA-ZQjP7S2KBw7I65DX4Z9WQGwEbn2pRrd_96PfYYrEkoRo6DVLZc9b8R8agE_RC3ImF5-3AtjcyygcTcQZJDvaCgdl8yFAV5jzLkS2WYRUyGBHbGChsUJm-E8g/s4608/IMG_20200925_094501375.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipKTk4rCvxuNyiK-mWZA-ZQjP7S2KBw7I65DX4Z9WQGwEbn2pRrd_96PfYYrEkoRo6DVLZc9b8R8agE_RC3ImF5-3AtjcyygcTcQZJDvaCgdl8yFAV5jzLkS2WYRUyGBHbGChsUJm-E8g/s320/IMG_20200925_094501375.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Very full. Shook it around to get air bubbles out. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6StuDIsbumrmNlqRRAfqAhUGPILt7unoWFQcO0G4ORyYSHTvCoayHY13N9WbncAyMCy_fYBNCKDRRv1J0Tba7212BvnSav_oPcKHvvAJ8hGh6HUEBbor5P17wt5A7OtU9XkABUDhHmNk/s4608/IMG_20200925_094548003.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6StuDIsbumrmNlqRRAfqAhUGPILt7unoWFQcO0G4ORyYSHTvCoayHY13N9WbncAyMCy_fYBNCKDRRv1J0Tba7212BvnSav_oPcKHvvAJ8hGh6HUEBbor5P17wt5A7OtU9XkABUDhHmNk/s320/IMG_20200925_094548003.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brass schrader valve in a 1/2 - 1/8 NPT adapter<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr72opfMuNjhiwZUptLMw30b7gvgU4wVB0_xnsumo0zKkUPsgCw8oKrxgWoGpUggE1KSkcJPQKoBvN3cgoqWngllHbyHOiPR1TsbfBD-rhQXJgLN-SoZi1-pIqrvNWANR5cFB9_EM1xpY/s4608/IMG_20200925_094705659.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr72opfMuNjhiwZUptLMw30b7gvgU4wVB0_xnsumo0zKkUPsgCw8oKrxgWoGpUggE1KSkcJPQKoBvN3cgoqWngllHbyHOiPR1TsbfBD-rhQXJgLN-SoZi1-pIqrvNWANR5cFB9_EM1xpY/s320/IMG_20200925_094705659.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">$20 300 psi AAA brand tire inflator from amazon<br />Only air in the system was the compressor air hose.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXiJtkZxVPZinN5z_HiYCCtiozS9saq4MZaQKwNjzvdzhyphenhyphennMi_8kZpameCp2vr0DJ0wjbuTMMogBu9lgtTcwtqhCuOAf4j1H_M0pf5_8hwlkqrxC5XB2SbJs96_7u8WC3li9MIl3W4r8/s4608/IMG_20200925_095915507.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXiJtkZxVPZinN5z_HiYCCtiozS9saq4MZaQKwNjzvdzhyphenhyphennMi_8kZpameCp2vr0DJ0wjbuTMMogBu9lgtTcwtqhCuOAf4j1H_M0pf5_8hwlkqrxC5XB2SbJs96_7u8WC3li9MIl3W4r8/w400-h300/IMG_20200925_095915507.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>I had to clamp the compressor in place to keep it from shaking around. There's a little USB snake camera held looking at the pressure gauge. I turned the compressor on, then got in my car and plugged it in while watching the camera feed on my phone. Unplugged it to turn it off. Let it get to 200 psi (1.6x 125 psi, which is operating pressure). Then held it there for 10 minutes. The schrader valve was leaking...could hear the hiss, it was about 5 psi/minute, so I had to repress a few times. But it passed! No water leaks. Total cost was about $35 for the compressor and fittings. You could probably figure out a way to do it without the $50 USB snake camera...maybe a gauge on an air hose T'd off of the schrader valve fitting. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJyzsSevJtEIBqJbbgnQbgIJbHZQp4wdxrDxW0wGtfwTJIlAVTqjPYsLLKFEKlYE0LloPF4Iad4qoJJUOagCRh2jmiAbxp-6lKS1LHXcO-_rI7lg04l8ZWhxKY3s0CGqgwcxK7DOddDMw/s4608/IMG_20200925_095143087.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJyzsSevJtEIBqJbbgnQbgIJbHZQp4wdxrDxW0wGtfwTJIlAVTqjPYsLLKFEKlYE0LloPF4Iad4qoJJUOagCRh2jmiAbxp-6lKS1LHXcO-_rI7lg04l8ZWhxKY3s0CGqgwcxK7DOddDMw/w300-h400/IMG_20200925_095143087.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not that those boards would do anything if it blew, <br />but they made me feel better.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuVChoy0BUkxXHwq9mnXhLuHOSyJfO0s_1qfJoD58zsFtXuocMDV1NrToNzSK8swIKKfoX9iycz2af_6GCTTKCC2NdJvVK2Vwklchp6k8i-LQ019PyVIHyQErO43JHD717dxG72_iDU8/s4608/IMG_20200925_101456537.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuVChoy0BUkxXHwq9mnXhLuHOSyJfO0s_1qfJoD58zsFtXuocMDV1NrToNzSK8swIKKfoX9iycz2af_6GCTTKCC2NdJvVK2Vwklchp6k8i-LQ019PyVIHyQErO43JHD717dxG72_iDU8/s320/IMG_20200925_101456537.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Used one of these to depressurize it. <br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXF7etxUayXrLcKyAc2zHQcDrpFJDHkqswhdI_Bg7vZWKi1HLwAoK93TAHdJjk9Fqm06XfrKWa7J07q7dn78ZAj4vVH8VNSjlstUucB_1FOxd1OUVVAWks-0hdBnoXVhN79lp2McRyiwk/s4608/IMG_20200925_101506497.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXF7etxUayXrLcKyAc2zHQcDrpFJDHkqswhdI_Bg7vZWKi1HLwAoK93TAHdJjk9Fqm06XfrKWa7J07q7dn78ZAj4vVH8VNSjlstUucB_1FOxd1OUVVAWks-0hdBnoXVhN79lp2McRyiwk/s320/IMG_20200925_101506497.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sprayed water everywhere. <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgacWH-wUlVyIQZ4VVRRxpBvoaM5sEOhZ3QxrHk_p8PDJEnTVCdp3u5D6uKrxKVY7RlsEw87XqFAsQQXmApQXuU2Fmaz1SlhfKrhp2u21JUxcavAcBVcdpNlClhIhvj_r8jmyfOI1-Sz3I/s4608/IMG_20200925_102426182_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgacWH-wUlVyIQZ4VVRRxpBvoaM5sEOhZ3QxrHk_p8PDJEnTVCdp3u5D6uKrxKVY7RlsEw87XqFAsQQXmApQXuU2Fmaz1SlhfKrhp2u21JUxcavAcBVcdpNlClhIhvj_r8jmyfOI1-Sz3I/s320/IMG_20200925_102426182_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Removed schrader valve and drain plug. <br />30 gallons is a lot of water...</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgacWH-wUlVyIQZ4VVRRxpBvoaM5sEOhZ3QxrHk_p8PDJEnTVCdp3u5D6uKrxKVY7RlsEw87XqFAsQQXmApQXuU2Fmaz1SlhfKrhp2u21JUxcavAcBVcdpNlClhIhvj_r8jmyfOI1-Sz3I/s4608/IMG_20200925_102426182_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>I'm letting it dry out now. Then I'll sandblast the outside, give it a coat of anti-rust primer, and paint the outside. Then the plan is to mount it on the wall as a second storage tank. The 33 gal compressor will normally be hooked up to it to provide air to my garage via a 50' retracting hose reel. When I need air elsewhere, I'll unhook the compressor, wheel it around, and leave this tank on the wall. <div><br /></div><div>My plan is to eventually turn the garage into a machine shop. I'll be insulating the ceiling and installing a window AC unit before next spring. Planning to save up for a CNC bed router, CNC mini-mill, and a CNC lathe. Possibly also a laser cutter. The garage is ~24'x24'x8', so it's not a lot of space, but I might be able to cram all of that in there. <br /><div><br /></div><div>I also scored ~750ft of good quality Cat6 riser cable off craigslist for $25. I'm going to eventually wire the whole house with ethernet drops. </div><div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTO27Y90z3w1BoArp89CUmGO9rghntXNzEw0Yyi8wo7HBUKeaitpngIt5p74G6ts80ykkPvOPEgOC81MszXPajXph1je8ZE9N7IC9PRrj6wpZTMeF_3ekIpxzg4W9CmNH4Qn4VXj9xH1E/s320/IMG_20200925_105546011.jpg" /></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">We've done a ton of other projects...painting, new light fixtures, various minor repairs, etc. This was just what was in the garage this morning when I was taking pictures. I'll make some more posts later. </div></div>Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-52412740158805235822020-05-08T23:16:00.000-04:002020-05-09T12:03:31.312-04:00CubeXY X-axis Re-redesignOne of the great things about hobbies is the lack of deadlines. Unlike in the real engineering-world, I can keep tweaking and perfecting designs as much as I want. This printer is turning out to be a great outlet for that.<br />
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I mentioned in an earlier post that the "12"mm SS rods that come with the CubeX are undersized. I finally measured them with a micrometer. They're 80um under, which for linear bearings, is WAY undersized. The <a href="https://tech.thk.com/en/products/pdf/en_a04_042.pdf">THK linear bearing spec</a> for 12mm LM shafts calls for -6 to -17 um. That probably contributed to the bad bearing wear I saw on the stock bearings. I purchased 4 new 12mm rods from PDTech on eBay: they actually listed a diameter tolerance spec, and they were case hardened, both of which are important for linear shafts (and neither are common for cheap chinese linear shafts). The only downside is that they're chrome plated steel, not stainless steel, but case hardened stainless steel shafts are very expensive, so I didn't buy those. I only purchased four since only four of them will have linear bearings on them. They ended up being about 11um undersized, which is right in the middle of the THK tolerance range. They result in noticeably smoother linear bearing movement and less (almost no) slop.<br />
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I purchased them long, partially because some of PDTech's non-standard lengths were actually cheaper than their standard lengths (455mm was cheaper than 450mm, not sure why), but mainly because I plan on making the printer taller. I mentioned this in passing in a previous post, but there is a lot of room between the top of the top aluminum cylinder shaft holders and the top of the acrylic shell. I can safely increase the length of the vertical shaft/rods by 40mm and still leave plenty of clearance between the hot end assembly and the lid. 40mm is convenient because the stock vertical shafts are 400mm long, and the stock X-axis shafts are 440mm long, so I can replace the 4x 400mm stock shafts with the two 440mm long old x-axis shafts (rear of printer) and two of the new tighter tolerance shafts (front of printer). I'll have to redrill 4 screw holes in the acrylic shell, and cut some acrylic out around the XY motors in the wire-mounting back plate, but that's pretty much it. Totally worth getting another 40mm of Z travel, for a total of about 325mm.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNl4WZSqNLMUmAkeCHNEcdEto-ZYTA2pebf-XmMD8ZzXoubNLOvZc2ehvu1RHKQRc3QdnVgntuuFgx0f22K9xzB1cCiFP45GMQC6Hn5ACCCaCQb2j-hE2S83sn_XzQhs46I4a2TSwxiDQ/s1600/cubexy_taller.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="823" data-original-width="751" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNl4WZSqNLMUmAkeCHNEcdEto-ZYTA2pebf-XmMD8ZzXoubNLOvZc2ehvu1RHKQRc3QdnVgntuuFgx0f22K9xzB1cCiFP45GMQC6Hn5ACCCaCQb2j-hE2S83sn_XzQhs46I4a2TSwxiDQ/s400/cubexy_taller.PNG" width="365" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taller CubeXY</td></tr>
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While trying to find actual tension force measurements of belts in corexy printers (never found any), I stumbled across this interesting post on <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Belt_Compliance_Measurement">belt compliance</a>. This person measured belt compliance at 10N preload (tension) + 10N. Basic 6mm GT2 fiberglass reinforced belt (like the kind I bought), has modulus of 0.0067 %/N, while 6mm GT2 steel core belt has a modulus of 0.0024%/N. The given example is a 1kg carriage being accelerated at 3000 mm/s2 with a 1000mm belt. 1kg*3m/s2=3N. 0.0067%/N*3N = 0.02%. 0.0002*1000mm = 0.2mm, which is about half a nozzle width, which would probably result in very bad ringing. I had been planning to drive my corexy, which has approximately 2m long belts, at 6000+ mm/s2, with an approximately 1kg carriage. Doing this math for my printer yields 0.8mm of stretch, which is terrible. A steel core belt would be about 0.29mm of stretch. I bought some to try. The disadvantage of steel core belts is that they're heavier and stiffer, which means less power ends up in the motion of the carriage. Steel core belt minimum radius is also larger, mainly to prevent kinking and fatigue, so I may not be able to use them...we'll see. I'll probably start with fiberglass core belts. <a href="https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2018/08/corexy-mechanism-layout-and-belt.html">This post </a>has a lot of details on belts.<br />
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<h2>
X-axis Re-redesign</h2>
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Due to the FEA results from the last post, I decided to completely redesign the X-axis to make it stiffer. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVtNf1T27gBFBMKa_WmHSd8dFWAwtniwRBq87L5X-YFh9swxdE_I0iRf1QSbdgBw3bj9J-8pDpIwuG2Hl1PVux8bB54JZaW4U7MQ0vzPMbjQokx3bhQ-pz45TXaW3pkRBkPHwaJtiWjuw/s1600/XY_v21.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="831" data-original-width="1376" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVtNf1T27gBFBMKa_WmHSd8dFWAwtniwRBq87L5X-YFh9swxdE_I0iRf1QSbdgBw3bj9J-8pDpIwuG2Hl1PVux8bB54JZaW4U7MQ0vzPMbjQokx3bhQ-pz45TXaW3pkRBkPHwaJtiWjuw/s640/XY_v21.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The X-axis plate is flat now, and the pulley blocks also hold the linear bearings. The Hemera exttruder has been rotated 90 deg. The x-axis plate is 149g and made of aluminum. It's about 25% lighter than the previous steel design, and 45-75% stiffer, depending on the bending mode. It'll be machined out of scrap 1/4" ground plate. The pulley blocks will be machined from T6-6061 bar stock. The fan mount plate will be band sawed out of 1/8" aluminum plate, and I'm going to use flush press-in threaded inserts in it instead of threading it. The motor-carriage mount will be milled from 2x2" x 1/8" wall square aluminum tube, which holds the extruder motor on the inside almost perfectly. Unfortunately, almost all of the previous machining I did won't be used. Luckily, the nozzle ended up in very close to the same place, so the same bed plate can be used. I will have to print new bed mounts, though, because the bed has to be shifted in +Y 5mm. This system should result in much stiffer X and Y axes. Here's a close up of the new extruder assembly:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1qieRyHoTGmYVEP-ej_t5nVYTgBHsSbapha0tauJBlB87OHOZwkcLPAbsMnq-b_xal195b-pV56efHRbH5rXQTWReadxWE8kn80JQFWSbpR4mJ-GBETJPCU-MC5HqKA2TOmpv7Dlgsc/s1600/new+extruder+assembly+v21+pic1.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="722" data-original-width="636" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1qieRyHoTGmYVEP-ej_t5nVYTgBHsSbapha0tauJBlB87OHOZwkcLPAbsMnq-b_xal195b-pV56efHRbH5rXQTWReadxWE8kn80JQFWSbpR4mJ-GBETJPCU-MC5HqKA2TOmpv7Dlgsc/s400/new+extruder+assembly+v21+pic1.PNG" width="351" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9dLvw73tXWaVpyq2xFBbez8sQLmGFEpEG9Qjri5Fgc7RxSvD1h11QkIKfjvTVbHGoyYbxSF-JaE2maqmi5g0Mm9AIwjANUSVsX0MwQmDg9wBZdTIWR8oCnMrpo3K5AUgrP-_jouVi3Ok/s1600/new+extruder+assembly+v21+pic2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="642" data-original-width="601" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9dLvw73tXWaVpyq2xFBbez8sQLmGFEpEG9Qjri5Fgc7RxSvD1h11QkIKfjvTVbHGoyYbxSF-JaE2maqmi5g0Mm9AIwjANUSVsX0MwQmDg9wBZdTIWR8oCnMrpo3K5AUgrP-_jouVi3Ok/s400/new+extruder+assembly+v21+pic2.PNG" width="373" /></a></div>
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This version is far less elegant than the previous one. The belt tensioner on the previous version was very simple and compact. This one uses the two stock X-axis belt tensioner cylinder things mounted inside of a 3D printed ratcheting assembly. I'll use a wrench on the printed hexes to tighten the belts, then tighten the button head screws down to hold the tensioner in position. Mounted off of that assembly is the inductive probe, which is conveniently closer to the nozzle now. The other side of the extruder has the fixed belt mount which takes each belt in and turns them 180 deg for plenty of belt engagement. Both the belt mount and radial fan are screwed to the 1/8" aluminum plate, which in turn is screwed to the side of the Hemera extruder motor. The fan location and duct are also less elegant. The previous duct completely encircled the nozzle. This one only has room to blow from one side. Because the belt heights are fixed by where the motors are mounted, and the requirement that belt segments be straight, the belt tensioner and fixed belt mount could only be located in the locations shown. Also, since Hemera was rotated so the length was along Y, the only place with room for the fan was on one of the X faces. Because the fan has its inlet on one side, that restricted the fan to the -X side. The fan also couldn't be located too far in +Y or it would impede the cooling flow from the hot end cooling fan. All of these things meant that the fan had to be mounted kind of high and in the location as shown. The LED light will be taped under the motor. I tried about every way I could think of to come up with a better way to configure the extruder assembly, but this was the best. While it's not as pretty or elegant, this should be a far stiffer and better performing design.<br />
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I've put in new material and screw orders. I should be able to finish machining the new X-axis plate next week. I'll start 3D printing the new plastic parts this weekend.Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-86736765860440265842020-04-21T18:40:00.000-04:002020-04-23T18:28:30.312-04:00CubeXY Fabrication Part 3 and X-axis redesign part 2I re-machined the pulley blocks today. They required a relief cut in them for the longer 450mm rail. Speaking of which, here's the "new" (ugh, see below) X-axis design.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLW2Z1Mci6qFpKQCpPwYIz-t0WTf34vOaPuQ07ygUWcL5uZeRngMnMlWyoAYV-CbtP2AYY2YgLPk6NYbre1Xi6ugWeBAgI7AOfgB8l9iAP1lfQIHYluBvsQoFG7AkuWqKiYVsgc6TD0U/s1600/x+pulley+block+right+v7.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="475" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHLW2Z1Mci6qFpKQCpPwYIz-t0WTf34vOaPuQ07ygUWcL5uZeRngMnMlWyoAYV-CbtP2AYY2YgLPk6NYbre1Xi6ugWeBAgI7AOfgB8l9iAP1lfQIHYluBvsQoFG7AkuWqKiYVsgc6TD0U/s320/x+pulley+block+right+v7.PNG" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right pulley block</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbBb3YO_-1WQKilvfzIX15qgQy25dBtPJtcojwKfqE2ffQAerlj4EbBTJ4hJdYgyHVe1c9QsWiD8gE7Zsr3Cst6XubBFnmY8tcoPM8KVwccarb3p-ctBtdrnwnIOOmu1tTWtZGl7VICGg/s1600/x-axis+v7.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="250" data-original-width="1349" height="118" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbBb3YO_-1WQKilvfzIX15qgQy25dBtPJtcojwKfqE2ffQAerlj4EbBTJ4hJdYgyHVe1c9QsWiD8gE7Zsr3Cst6XubBFnmY8tcoPM8KVwccarb3p-ctBtdrnwnIOOmu1tTWtZGl7VICGg/s640/x-axis+v7.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The x-axis plate is contoured for mass savings, which I extended to the 3D printed pulley blocks for aesthetics. The M3 screws were also shifted around some.<br />
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I also pressed-in the linear bearings to the old aluminum x-axis plate and test assembled it on the printer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicfs75TnEUudxLSOU9V7cTqXKtd3OsxwGLvAoQuftyWykTUdUEuVj4VNj3Rds5mU1tQbrx8I9UuDrziX1MJPDeo3UmFYc2sM6v9M_Oti_o5ejlfQQguoxahcXaa6Et1ExYcMb1VU2tMOc/s1600/IMG_20200421_172932099.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicfs75TnEUudxLSOU9V7cTqXKtd3OsxwGLvAoQuftyWykTUdUEuVj4VNj3Rds5mU1tQbrx8I9UuDrziX1MJPDeo3UmFYc2sM6v9M_Oti_o5ejlfQQguoxahcXaa6Et1ExYcMb1VU2tMOc/s320/IMG_20200421_172932099.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The good news it that is slides well, and I think I got the linear bearing spacing correct. The bad news is that this let me see a bending mode I hadn't thought of until now. Previously, I analyzed what I thought was worst case: both motors being used to apply max force such that the x-axis was maximally accelerated in y. I applied this y acceleration to the FEA model with both ends of the x-axis restrained. This is not the worst case, though. For corexy, in order to move diagonally, one motor applies force while the other does not. This causes both the X and Y axes to translate, resulting in diagonal motion. Here's the basic corexy belt layout I discussed a few posts ago:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6flstIBMp859siYTAeK10HJPAS1ica2I354jgQHo2FlDCF1wyl5hG95-Vx4H3AvHyNiizlYtvr3bJWoddpwIMh7MDP2ttQMCiMh0WNmSwJCRJkOiJfPuKh78bdOUs7ps1UJ73P6cHYYI/s1600/corexy+belt+layout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="988" data-original-width="1358" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6flstIBMp859siYTAeK10HJPAS1ica2I354jgQHo2FlDCF1wyl5hG95-Vx4H3AvHyNiizlYtvr3bJWoddpwIMh7MDP2ttQMCiMh0WNmSwJCRJkOiJfPuKh78bdOUs7ps1UJ73P6cHYYI/s400/corexy+belt+layout.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you spin the bottom right motor clockwise, for example, that will pull the x axis carriage in -X and the whole x-axis in +Y, resulting in diagonal movement. All of the belts are still tensioned, but belts H and D are tensioned more, by exactly the force required to accelerate the axes' masses, and that force is applied by the motor torque to the pulley. Because H (and D, M and J, but they don't matter for this discussion) has more tension, there is a net torque on the X axis assembly about Z, which has to be countered by the Y axis linear bearings. Remember <a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2020/04/cubex-and-cubexy-z-axis-and-bed-design.html">how I said </a>linear bearings don't handle torque loads well? Oops. But there's another problem. If the X-axis is not very stiff, then the net force in segment H will cause the X-axis to be bent. My design is essentially a beam supported by two rollers, or if you think of the system as static, a pin (pulley P1) and a roller (the linear bearing under P2). This is causes a different mode shape, one that results in more deflection than the previously analyzed case, despite using the force of only one motor instead of two.<br />
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I removed the Y axis acceleration (left gravity), left the radial roller supports in the linear bearing holes, left the fixed support in one of the shoulder bolt (pulley) holes, and applied half the previous force (one motor only) to the other shoulder bolt hole. This caused negligible Z deflection, but the Y deflection of one side relative to the other was about 1.8mm! Yikes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQhIDOpRrFLkIeSYPDRBVf6TsGSBjH4jIOU_5BfyA90EEJuqhCRTdO7qUIlgMz3t1zI0DbyLUR0R0SnFPXQ6F7AwQQMyLMDB-p4ayB5dKaylte1plq7srg0p9mygXRgm1-y65yH53JA4/s1600/single_side_FEA.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="1013" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQhIDOpRrFLkIeSYPDRBVf6TsGSBjH4jIOU_5BfyA90EEJuqhCRTdO7qUIlgMz3t1zI0DbyLUR0R0SnFPXQ6F7AwQQMyLMDB-p4ayB5dKaylte1plq7srg0p9mygXRgm1-y65yH53JA4/s400/single_side_FEA.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is the bending mode I was seeing with just the linear bearings and aluminum x-axis plate (no steel rail)...I was able to move them about 5-10mm relative to each other. If there's any play at all in the bearings or frame (impossible to remove all of it), and if the beam connecting them isn't perfectly rigid (never is), then the linear bearings can move axially relative to each other. In the FEA case above, no displacement in X of the linear bearing surface was allowed (bearing or frame slop), so it's likely that the real world deflection would be > 1.8mm.<br />
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The frame will be stiffer when the 12mm rods/shafts are locked in place (set screws) and the acrylic shell is on, but that won't eliminate bending in the rods and aluminum brackets holding them. There's also no way to the play between the undersized rods (talked about previously) and the linear bearings...I can add some pretension, but I don't think it'll be enough. Accelerating much slower (~factor of 10, ugh) also fixes this problem, but slow printing was something about this printer I was trying to fix. Ultimately, the right way to handle this problem is to make the X-axis stiff enough to not deflect significantly, which I'm not sure how to do at this point.<br />
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The weird thing is that other corexy's aren't immune to this, including ones with rail guides. Linear rails are designed to handle torque, but they still don't limit axial motion, which is where this bending mode comes from. This X-axis design is actually stiffer than Railcore II's unsupported MGN12 rail, at least according to my FEA, so how does that printer work so well? This lead me to re-examine my model inputs, specifically what I'm using for force and acceleration.<br />
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I first used just the motor torque and pulley radius to calculate a force. I then used an online calculator for stepper motors that accounts for rotor inertia, applies a factor for reducing the holding torque to a more realistic torque value in order to reduce positioning error, and applies another factor for microstepping torque reduction. I could have written my own simulation program, and have for (much larger) linear motion applications before, but meh...if a calculator exists, why not use it. This dropped the max per motor acceleration to 3 m/s2 from a previous 32 m/s2. I also checked forums for maximum real world accelerations for other high performance corexy printers. It seems that 6-20 m/s2 are about the maximum. 20 m/s2 results in 200mm/s in 1mm and 0.01s. I'll probably redo these analyses with that.<br />
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Update: I re-ran the final design with 20m/s2 and 6m/s2. 2*20m/s2 in case 1 (the bending mode shown previously) resulted in a Y deflection of 0.062mm, and 0.55mm at the nozzle and 1mm at the unconstrained y bearing block for case 2 (the bending mode shown above). 2*6m/s2 in case 1 resulted in a Y deflection of 0.017mm, and 0.16mm at the nozzle and 0.3mm at the unconstrained y bearing block for case 2. The Y deflection for 20m/s2 is still unacceptable, and I'll probably have bad ringing at 6000mm/s2 if the motion is somewhat diagonal. Not good.Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-44784689941877970142020-04-19T22:39:00.002-04:002020-04-21T18:03:57.209-04:00CubeXY Fabrication part 2, and X axis plate redesign<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Made some more progress fabricating.<br />
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I made 4 brass soldering iron tips for melt-in inserts. The brass rod cost $6 (only used half of it), and it took about an hour to turn these.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hueTFQI99FXDlbRrsQT1aa72EP7-lYKzpeIPrHK1h37v2nMNXH0zrAQLFekIKXcIuGRghYDjrk-ux4896zO18_-bad-gcrJfZKxNmtgKZm7L5KVV52yTnV2X1j9V0A5W9oZNPBVEf_I/s1600/IMG_20200414_094020803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1073" data-original-width="915" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hueTFQI99FXDlbRrsQT1aa72EP7-lYKzpeIPrHK1h37v2nMNXH0zrAQLFekIKXcIuGRghYDjrk-ux4896zO18_-bad-gcrJfZKxNmtgKZm7L5KVV52yTnV2X1j9V0A5W9oZNPBVEf_I/s320/IMG_20200414_094020803.jpg" width="272" /></a></div>
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I designed them for combination US and metric. They cover M2-M5 and 4-40 - 10-32.<br />
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I milled the bed plate (with a lot of help, thanks Anthony). While programming prototrak is like riding a bicycle for me, mastercam apparently isn't.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bed being milled</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1502" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvw747yeeFPGgYCdAOJzQE4_g-DoI_wppHMVnfcBlMAZZCpnWcgpTy8lcAMqb4sFvghfgRs7WN3FM7GbS6Jh_0entxzHhNNtITxzGMawW6kHhGqqeSKQ6lrlADfBA6f6P4sZKqBy4eYZo/s320/IMG_20200417_084847130.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom</td></tr>
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The 1/4" cast aluminum plate stock, purchased from midwest steel supply, arrived with a few pits in it. I guess despite being ground, basic material handling of these large sheets results in pits. One of the mill clamps also left a noticeable dent in an edge. Otherwise, it came out well. I'll probably end up lightly sanding the whole top anyways to improve bonding. </div>
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Next was test milling linear bearing holes to find a good press-fit diameter. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFhpO53Js-YehLl3XN_oKAE1VN0IceTHsyd68D30ErRQTywoC7iTDusysFbQkC8qNU5UtF9GXOZnZZExhtenQQwPKszafQx-zFJruA-dSWqNtXIrJVZBHUcJ8P-14xErljS6CInP1NmNU/s1600/IMG_20200417_101236670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1563" data-original-width="1600" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFhpO53Js-YehLl3XN_oKAE1VN0IceTHsyd68D30ErRQTywoC7iTDusysFbQkC8qNU5UtF9GXOZnZZExhtenQQwPKszafQx-zFJruA-dSWqNtXIrJVZBHUcJ8P-14xErljS6CInP1NmNU/s320/IMG_20200417_101236670.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I had to turn a small part to push this out after I pressed it in.</td></tr>
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Then actually milling the x-axis plate (again, thanks Anthony). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cuSy10GlS30m1_wkCTmM_tgr8-ubEkchFqTRnee7kIM2OIamZOzgs2B_M-HtQNG_chLgGpkNpr1v8GlUFfzX2j2VUVw3ZTXfczR3NkQaZQJiWxayRLcfxnM_SEY8D-gQglT7AUFeZSU/s1600/IMG_20200419_215410070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="282" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cuSy10GlS30m1_wkCTmM_tgr8-ubEkchFqTRnee7kIM2OIamZOzgs2B_M-HtQNG_chLgGpkNpr1v8GlUFfzX2j2VUVw3ZTXfczR3NkQaZQJiWxayRLcfxnM_SEY8D-gQglT7AUFeZSU/s640/IMG_20200419_215410070.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This felt a little flimsy. Uh oh... I went back and checked math/FEA. First thing I noticed was that the big chamfers on each side interfere with the X-axis carriage at both travel limits. Oops. I calculated what the max possible acceleration of the Y-axis could be given it's estimated mass (~1kg), the motor torques and inertia, etc. Came out to about 64 m/s2, which is likely an over estimate because it doesn't account for friction or microstepping losses. I used that and 1g applied to a mock extruder assembly, the X-axis rail, and X-axis plate in an FEA model. I added radial restraints to the inside of the linear bearing holes and fixed constraints in the shoulder screw holes. The parts were "bonded"...bolt contacts are a pain to add in solidworks simulation, and they really slow it down. Considering the close screw spacing, I expect maybe 5% more deflection in reality than predicted by the bonded contacts. The results showed a max deflection at the nozzle location of about 0.19mm in Y and 0.07mm in Z. Some of the Z deflection came from 1g, which will be accounted for because that's constant. The rest came from torquing of the X-axis plate. That amount of Z is concerning, though...it'd probably cause poor bonding in one direction and extruder skipping in the other direction. The Y deflection is also concerning...that'd definitely be noticeable, and probably manifest as bad ringing or bulging layers. I tested both forward and reverse acceleration to see which was worse. I also did a mesh independence test. I then started modifying the design and running FEA. Took about 30 iterations, but finally settled on something better. </div>
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I targeted half of both of the baseline deflections as my goal. I figured out I didn't have room in the Y-axis to make the plate thicker, which would have been the best way to improve bending stiffness due to Y-axis acceleration. So the plate can't be thicker than 1/4". Tests making the thin beam portion slightly wider helped Z deflection some, but didn't significantly help Y. I also tried making it thicker just around the linear bearings, where I did have some room to make it thicker, but that didn't help very much. The stress contours showed that almost all of the material around the linear bearings, except the portion near the thin rail mount beam, was essentially unloaded. Since I couldn't make the rail mount beam thicker, I had to change materials. Steel and stainless steels have a modulus of elasticity about 3x higher than aluminum. Unfortunately, they're also about 3x denser. I decided on SS304 because I can buy it for not much more than carbon steel, and it won't rust. One small advantage of using SS304 is that it's CTE will match that of the rail (some steel alloy) better than aluminum. I realized that extending the rail from 430mm long to 450mm would stiffen the transitions to the rail mount beam by effectively making that region thicker. Final results: Y deflection of 0.11mm and Z deflection of 0.038mm, 2x the mass of the X plate (about 10% more moving Y mass). Not terrible, I got most of the way to the 1/2 deflection goal. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbXwP1Oi9KMOrKtp1WxpGvVTFGtpLpu3bI-AYU8tjGIcwMTlJ6NlBBNrbYzzyCEGoOIRmSJJ8NC2u6AK9QAmUkVqMFDEPIT-XD0OcUYzJ3GsS-3RMOeBoB4NXHEnj1H9E8K_ShQl4o3k/s1600/X+plate+v7.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="247" data-original-width="1521" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbXwP1Oi9KMOrKtp1WxpGvVTFGtpLpu3bI-AYU8tjGIcwMTlJ6NlBBNrbYzzyCEGoOIRmSJJ8NC2u6AK9QAmUkVqMFDEPIT-XD0OcUYzJ3GsS-3RMOeBoB4NXHEnj1H9E8K_ShQl4o3k/s640/X+plate+v7.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Preliminary) Design of new X-axis plate</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXmvjWBUVALoGQ7wIPN7ekKs-iyHqd_Sc3Uqasb8oBJCUqeWFdXG-veYW_lBSbPTOvFl9z4WyE_kb0CUFt7BOQgMW3MX9v4-gWVVfIsSA1De0W7-KP1h7WF-JDOd0QdtPFdRFSw577FQ/s1600/x-axis+v7+plate+fea+xdef.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="775" data-original-width="963" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXmvjWBUVALoGQ7wIPN7ekKs-iyHqd_Sc3Uqasb8oBJCUqeWFdXG-veYW_lBSbPTOvFl9z4WyE_kb0CUFt7BOQgMW3MX9v4-gWVVfIsSA1De0W7-KP1h7WF-JDOd0QdtPFdRFSw577FQ/s400/x-axis+v7+plate+fea+xdef.PNG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final FEA run,100x exaggeration, showing contours of Y-axis deflection </td></tr>
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Contoured ends and pockets under the rail resulted in about 30% mass savings over solid. I also redesigned the X-axis belt tensioner part to accept the chamfers. The pulley blocks will need a chunk milled out for the longer rail and a M3 hole relocated, and the linear bearing blocks will need to be re-designed and re-printed. </div>
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I'll probably go ahead and press the linear bearings into the old x-axis plate and use it to test the Y-axis shaft spacing and motion. </div>
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To do:</div>
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1. Finalize re-design</div>
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2. Buy a longer MGN9 rail. oof</div>
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3. Buy a piece of SS304 bar stock</div>
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4. Re-machine pulley blocks</div>
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5. Re-print linear bearing blocks</div>
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6. Mill new X-axis plate</div>
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7. Get back on track.</div>
Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-66280624880751950132020-04-12T18:40:00.000-04:002020-04-12T18:41:57.935-04:00CubeXY Fabrication Part 1Most of the 3D printed parts have been printed. All done on my Wanhao I3. Here's a pic of most of the parts that have been fabricated so far:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5inPSsfdnmvU71HKyQBiWaq22yRMDSeeKBI_Aq0w4fule-n7LLXXJ7-pUg1BERUkRT5hqN_OLACTww3hT__60KTkyhYhi1QVi9tbDYOwHNT6ksUpIbQPQHxemGoABSfzFVTSJc_QNv8/s1600/IMG_20200412_182330860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="955" data-original-width="1600" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5inPSsfdnmvU71HKyQBiWaq22yRMDSeeKBI_Aq0w4fule-n7LLXXJ7-pUg1BERUkRT5hqN_OLACTww3hT__60KTkyhYhi1QVi9tbDYOwHNT6ksUpIbQPQHxemGoABSfzFVTSJc_QNv8/s640/IMG_20200412_182330860.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apologies for the stained garage floor</td></tr>
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The following is a picture of one of the top front rod holder/pulley blocks having one of its pockets CNC milled. Turns out ProTrak mill programming is like riding a bicycle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRPNvr9sBZWUDRyJtQgynI1Gix7uftW_VquX07PTM1zqeamJxi1CTM0q065wUfbg0Rx5Ac3Wp96_pxKwyQV2ausZIR_yQbsz5afIptjuquGDpAJsrA8SflrFuL3MGgkp9pXyq2NoryZEY/s1600/IMG_20200408_091508129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRPNvr9sBZWUDRyJtQgynI1Gix7uftW_VquX07PTM1zqeamJxi1CTM0q065wUfbg0Rx5Ac3Wp96_pxKwyQV2ausZIR_yQbsz5afIptjuquGDpAJsrA8SflrFuL3MGgkp9pXyq2NoryZEY/s320/IMG_20200408_091508129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you look closely at the vise, you'll see two black vise blocks. These were 3D printed solid, and have a cylinder boss that interfaces with the 12mm rod holes. They allowed me to align the part. I then used a gauge to pick up the inside of the other 12mm hole, the center of which became my zero.<br />
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The last few 3D printed parts are currently printing:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwKotXzWlHJEUOOFcbgww8jpPfiW1j0jlgab4L8VflHNwKJFJP3US2JAzmWHyzAYog8bpI9KwIg6PYhHYMfxTUjKDO7872iGxaQ38nSjlCAeZ6_gA_rYveSXg2-XYrIOpnWAYzGGx-8HU/s1600/IMG_20200412_181907719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwKotXzWlHJEUOOFcbgww8jpPfiW1j0jlgab4L8VflHNwKJFJP3US2JAzmWHyzAYog8bpI9KwIg6PYhHYMfxTUjKDO7872iGxaQ38nSjlCAeZ6_gA_rYveSXg2-XYrIOpnWAYzGGx-8HU/s320/IMG_20200412_181907719.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The following picture series shows modifications to the acrylic shell.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifv4smbVmZ0Mbnncnw_KSzY0J-sa7QC9gaFsYjiPr76tVFPgPkmDDu-nMy1mAX5XR7zCRJVyAnKph6GqS1PRLLlh8p8VYZgq2CrjGPjmjT00BZEnHcDq0w20V-7pgfdNAWfvA06UMBMtI/s1600/IMG_20200408_204115490.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifv4smbVmZ0Mbnncnw_KSzY0J-sa7QC9gaFsYjiPr76tVFPgPkmDDu-nMy1mAX5XR7zCRJVyAnKph6GqS1PRLLlh8p8VYZgq2CrjGPjmjT00BZEnHcDq0w20V-7pgfdNAWfvA06UMBMtI/s320/IMG_20200408_204115490.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taped-on paper template + coping saw</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJeymrvLtdEVC2K2ov2AByWZSA5LXzh8oW5Gt67YKAJiTGGgar3s_v6ZhPVr-d5vL3ebFbQCjSwFH8ELw_llQsIVXpcwDSRBDNZTxBVxxEuu6csuoVaGcD9XXdRcHVpaGyP-MM44OsNY/s320/IMG_20200409_173051985.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished screen hole. Used a file to clean up edges</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8gGL47Odcj_fqjdwA2qVpBULDRqywgOYYJWDHu2U8PT-qri6jCPe09CXzvxVWQ5iKoT6dinO7i8vH8e9LcEA57LqzUC-fpLLBOWOB29jg6Eg8jaBUJNrWTzCMIOOJnVNBrBJumPTCAH0/s1600/IMG_20200409_173100584.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8gGL47Odcj_fqjdwA2qVpBULDRqywgOYYJWDHu2U8PT-qri6jCPe09CXzvxVWQ5iKoT6dinO7i8vH8e9LcEA57LqzUC-fpLLBOWOB29jg6Eg8jaBUJNrWTzCMIOOJnVNBrBJumPTCAH0/s320/IMG_20200409_173100584.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Test fitting the bezel</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgojm4j4bIfWUNo2wfwxRg3cQ8RSFxEKzKZEVEWIgj80zLUVq-OFoi1ndrPOOTomemQ7xKXcLXxQsuw6088WlGKyubTq3FjscXHQZWtJCwYXNshWB3gJN4HWsopA9laQ4X4ZcZndBAC8zs/s1600/IMG_20200409_200722750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1447" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgojm4j4bIfWUNo2wfwxRg3cQ8RSFxEKzKZEVEWIgj80zLUVq-OFoi1ndrPOOTomemQ7xKXcLXxQsuw6088WlGKyubTq3FjscXHQZWtJCwYXNshWB3gJN4HWsopA9laQ4X4ZcZndBAC8zs/s320/IMG_20200409_200722750.jpg" width="289" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screen and bezel installed!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiShtjl2icDdreWMHqrUBDkqBVgn0GHPk_ZiZvWFHCLy0r7Zh8cgFq1UBa4VHKcgYNCl8ACrlCphcmEvtA6ZxU3T863mtKxpTv9ybwMzy0KFdIV3_OqWNZERIhNWfJLBAFwQ7MwG4xxgWA/s1600/IMG_20200410_142927696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1563" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiShtjl2icDdreWMHqrUBDkqBVgn0GHPk_ZiZvWFHCLy0r7Zh8cgFq1UBa4VHKcgYNCl8ACrlCphcmEvtA6ZxU3T863mtKxpTv9ybwMzy0KFdIV3_OqWNZERIhNWfJLBAFwQ7MwG4xxgWA/s320/IMG_20200410_142927696.jpg" width="312" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Letters glued on</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEUqU3neppIrEuNol5eAsH7fiVl9MRZle9y_OCQF3QuZnmpS5xixB-rl2wYbhYA40ekVw9lTEtTXPsU6GN2fSiuFnrpW-vk_jbsuNQ62J4JSrwjIgoaFog55YpMlTnWdQzC4CS-f7Q_JM/s320/IMG_20200412_171642551.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="240" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Template for power socket</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Hp4MHRdL_ECjj3NIDTZnrlyxjO1XK6kjZqYlh7Lkliwr6gTG4tpLytrVC0lNEotQR6P1gI_gCZRmUtKzJ996GjyLUV2i3drGGCoCR1t-7nns8E_AFlEToyzi67srchRd7FMLt9NqPTI/s1600/IMG_20200412_172019997.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Hp4MHRdL_ECjj3NIDTZnrlyxjO1XK6kjZqYlh7Lkliwr6gTG4tpLytrVC0lNEotQR6P1gI_gCZRmUtKzJ996GjyLUV2i3drGGCoCR1t-7nns8E_AFlEToyzi67srchRd7FMLt9NqPTI/s320/IMG_20200412_172019997.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Power socket installed. I actually cut out the corners shown in the <br />
previous picture so I could orient the socket the other way around.</td></tr>
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Left to fabricate:<br />
<ul>
<li>CNC mill Y-axis pulley blocks</li>
<li>CNC mill X plate</li>
<li>CNC mill bed plate</li>
<li>Turn brass melt-in insert soldering iron tips</li>
<li>Drilling and installing melt inserts</li>
<li>Wiring</li>
</ul>
<div>
After that, lots of assembly. </div>
Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-10705389086712490152020-04-09T23:39:00.001-04:002020-04-10T21:19:54.845-04:00CubeX and CubeXY Z axis and Bed Design DiscussionThis post is specifically about the CubeX's Z axis design, the redesign of that for CubeXY, and CubeXY's bed design.<br />
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<h2>
CubeX Z-axis</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaYx8lFuvWEQzH8iVh_buYhWKhbulfERqLQYtyqabXJupcjTpydDAjbzoCpB_-L9fTLdgKSEXp0WMG_M1mxZbRFSSiQ-zGrd7Ri_JFBIkEOvcg-tGltddxL1_ljyCVH5cYLP6YS5CU4DI/s1600/IMG_20200119_193105660.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaYx8lFuvWEQzH8iVh_buYhWKhbulfERqLQYtyqabXJupcjTpydDAjbzoCpB_-L9fTLdgKSEXp0WMG_M1mxZbRFSSiQ-zGrd7Ri_JFBIkEOvcg-tGltddxL1_ljyCVH5cYLP6YS5CU4DI/s400/IMG_20200119_193105660.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top down view of CubeX Trio. Right: original Z axis motion system. </td></tr>
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The original Z-axis design used a single NEMA23 stepper motor located at the center back. It drove a 10mm lead screw, which attached to a flimsy, milled polycarbonate plate, which attached to two custom machined 12mm linear bearing blocks, which attached to the two cantilevered bed arms, which supported the bed via three long M5 screws + springs. The whole design is mess, and one of the primary complaints about this printer. If the bed is very light, cantilevered bed designs work ok. However, this bed is far too large to be cantilevered. Fundamentally, linear bearings on shafts are only designed to support radial loads. They are NOT designed to counter torque loads. The proper way to handle torques on linear shafts is to have two linear bearings spaced far enough apart such that the applied torque results in applied radial loads lower than the radial load rating limit of the individual linear bearings. Unfortunately, there isn't much vertical room in a 3D printer for spacing linear bearings far apart. To be fair though, the original designers did attempt to do this. The Z axis linear bearing blocks, which are about 80mm long, had two short 12mm linear bearings in them, with a small amount of space between them. However, given the high wear on these bearings and the resulting play (+/- 1/8" at the front of the bed), this clearly wasn't enough spacing.<br />
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Side note time. This is partly why linear guides, e.g. MGN9 or MGN12, have gained popularity over linear bearings in high end 3D printers: linear guides are actually designed to handle torques about all axes, as well as restricting motion to 1 degree of freedom. Here is a screenshot of the MGN (Hiwin brand) linear guide specs:<br />
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<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggr8aNTgOoFQySPXW1vP00vUFv8znIpgIWf-DJtL8cVS4y7huI38CWRvxfPgukNgNIPuloTfAQZ42958lyg_Iof6p1Fv3T8JeGFdPw_qcZOZo3vMfPoz4ZwQvLslNmBL8tbirPSLKnuB0/s1600/MGN+specs.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="838" data-original-width="961" height="558" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggr8aNTgOoFQySPXW1vP00vUFv8znIpgIWf-DJtL8cVS4y7huI38CWRvxfPgukNgNIPuloTfAQZ42958lyg_Iof6p1Fv3T8JeGFdPw_qcZOZo3vMfPoz4ZwQvLslNmBL8tbirPSLKnuB0/s640/MGN+specs.PNG" width="640" /></a>MR, MP, and MY are all moment loads. You can see that a MGN9H, which has a 9mm wide rail, has a dynamic load rating of 2550 N and moment ratings of ~20, 19, and 19 Nm. If you think about that, it's pretty incredible. That's a lot of force and torque! All MGN12 used in 3D printers are super overkill, even the MGN9's are. However, not all linear guides are created equal. Misumi, THK, and Hiwin are good brands, and also pretty expensive. I bought a new genuine Hiwin MGN9H 430mm rail + carriage off eBay for $89. <a href="https://railcore.org/">Railcore</a>'s entire MGN set costs less than that, because they are sourced from cheaper Chinese manufacturers. These knock-off MGNs are nowhere near as high quality, and have to be rebuilt and lubricated (lots of youtube videos on this process) before use. For 3D printing though, super high accuracy isn't important, so this is typically ok. I just didn't want to spend an hour rebuilding a rail, but if I had to buy 6+ of them, I'd probably do the buy-cheap-and-rebuild thing.<br />
<br />
Anyways, back to the CubeX's Z axis. The Z linear bearings were subjected to a sustained torque that they were not designed to withstand, and so wore out, resulting in a lot of play. This caused the bed to bounce at high speeds, which ultimately limited the printer's speed to ~25 mm/s. It's probably also why the NEMA23 was used...they bearings and/or lead screw probably started binding, so instead of fixing the problem, they just used a higher torque motor. I decided that all of that would have to go.<br />
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<h2>
CubeXY Z-axis</h2>
There are hundreds of variations on bed and Z-axis designs for cube-ish gantry style 3D printers, and an equal amount of misinformation. I tackled the redesign by starting from scratch and using proper mechanical design principles. The bed/Z axis needs to be fully constrained (old design was under constrained), but not over-constrained. Because 3 points determine a plane, exactly three Z vertical supports (lift points) are required to support the bed. If a bed only has one vertical support, it can pitch and roll about it. If it has two, it will pitch or roll about the line between the two points. If it has four or more, then the bed will be warped by the extras if rigidly attached to them, or not rest on more than 3 (and tip like an uneven four legged chair) if it is not rigidly attached to them. This means that I needed to design a system to raise/lower the bed frame from 3 points. There are two main ways of doing this in 3D printers: lead screws + nuts, or belts. Since the current frame design seemed to be more amenable to lead screws, I opted for those.<br />
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Note: I used "bed" and "bed frame" sort of interchangeably here. This will be clear later, but it is possible to have a bed without a bed frame, and since I hadn't yet fixed the bed design at this point, the bed/bed frame is amorphous.<br />
<br />
I decided on a three-stepper motor system to drive the three lead screws directly. Originally, I planned on using a large loop timing belt with one stepper to drive all three screws. Each lead screw would have a pulley and radial bearings at the base. However, after looking at how difficult it is to splice belts, I decided against doing this. That left using one stepper motor per screw. This had the unfortunate affect of resulting in 6 total stepper motors (extruder, X, Y, 3 Z). Most 3D printer stepper driver boards only have 5 stepper drivers. Thus, I had to buy a second driver board (SKR v1.3, but could have used a cheaper board, see the Electronics section in this <a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2020/04/introducing-cubexy.html">post</a>). This cost was partially offset by not having to buy materials and pulleys for the lead screws, since I already had 3 identical NEMA17 stepper motors from the CubeX Trio's extruders. I did a quick estimate of load on the lead screws considering the bed, bed frame, and max potential part mass, and determined that these three NEMA17's with T8x2 lead screws would be more than sufficient for the Z axis drive. A bonus of using three independent Z-axis motors is that automatic bed tramming and leveling will be possible.<br />
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Now I have a way of supporting the bed frame from three points and moving it up and down (Z-axis). This also happens to support rotation about X and Y (pitch and roll torques). However, the bed/bed frame is not constrained in yaw (rotation about Z) or linearly in X and Y. The lead screws do have some lateral stiffness, but it is not enough, so some other way of constraining the bed frame in those axes is necessary. I considered two different approaches: 1. Linear rail guides, 2. linear bearings.<br />
<br />
As discussed above, and showcased by <a href="https://railcore.org/">Railcore</a>, linear rail guides are a great way to constrain motion to 1-axis. I could have followed Railcore's example and used one guide per Z-axis lead screw. Each guide would full constrain each nut to travel only in Z. Now if you were following my discussion earlier, you'll realize that this is actually now over-constraining the bed/bed frame. Assuming the bed frame is rigid, having three linear guides (which constrain motion in all axes but vertical, including all rotations) rigidly attached to it is bad. Railcore II solved this with something called a kinematic mount, which I devote a whole section to further down. However, due to the overconstraint issue of linear guides and the fact that I already had 4 nice vertical 12mm linear shafts that I could utilize (in the CubeX's frame), I decided to go with option #2: linear bearings. Now wait, didn't I just rant about how the Z axis linear bearings in CubeX were it's downfall? The key here is that when linear bearings are <i>properly implemented</i>, they are excellent in linear motion applications.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXoYY82y2PW03NMLPUl65I9kWRBDz0OS-9nmW27EAnSx0sbIUNoES3OO0Y_EO2_L2tHZePiycqahQDDCqAXP1vKHZRFNICQDpuwgd8ZGJi1SU93QLQPJ79d1wkRwRfiNnac2BbmycbTw/s1600/bed+final_labels.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXoYY82y2PW03NMLPUl65I9kWRBDz0OS-9nmW27EAnSx0sbIUNoES3OO0Y_EO2_L2tHZePiycqahQDDCqAXP1vKHZRFNICQDpuwgd8ZGJi1SU93QLQPJ79d1wkRwRfiNnac2BbmycbTw/s640/bed+final_labels.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: red;"><br /></span>
Linear bearings support radial loads. The three vertical lift points (from the nuts on the three Z axis lead screws) support the pitch and roll torques, which the linear bearings can't handle. Adding one vertical linear bearing to this system will support X and Y linear loads (which are radial from the linear bearings perspective). However, the bed frame will still be (somewhat) free to rotate about that bearing in the Z axis. So one more linear bearing must be added. Thus, the two linear bearings counter X and Y linear forces and torque about Z, and the three lift points control Z linear motion, and counter torques about X and Y. There is a little bit of over-constraining due to the two linear bearings: they will be able to handle some torque about X and Y. Also, the lead screws have some bending stiffness. But if everything is properly aligned and somewhat level, these "secondary" over-constraints should not cause any problems.<br />
<br />
Since the old bed frame already had provisions for connecting to two linear bearing blocks, I decided to reuse the bed arms. I flipped them around 180 deg, so that the vertical linear bearings would be on the two front shaft posts. This allowed two of Z motors+ lead screws to be in the front corners and one in the center of the back (as before). If the bed hadn't been rotated, there'd be a lead screw right in the middle front of the printer, which would be ugly and make getting parts out difficult.<br />
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To help take any lead screw non-straightness out of the equation, I purchased three plumb couplers (5mm-8mm) from Zyltech to connect the motor shafts to the lead screws. The lead screws are also Zyltech: 400mm pre-cut T8x2 with brass nuts. Helpful tip: the precut ones are 1/2 the cost of the custom cut length ones. These are single start lead screws with a 2mm pitch. Smaller pitch is better on a Z axis because it doesn't move quickly and it needs to be very accurate. You don't want to use T8x8 (4 starts) on a Z axis. I'm also not using anti-backlash nuts; they're worthless considering the weight of the bed+bedframe (5+kg's), even when doing Z hops. Since stepper motors aren't designed to handle much axial load, I also purchased three 5mm ID x 12mm OD x 4mm thick thrust bearings off eBay (McMaster has some very nice thrust and needle bearings with larger OD's, but they're a little pricey). These will go on the motor shafts between the motor face and couplers. The motor mounts are described in this <a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2020/04/introducing-cubexy.html">post</a>. Here are two pictures of the lower part of CubeXY, including the Z axis system.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuG-fQ99K0SUhb9eaPx2JNPLU4xi-w-0c64uJKL2-y-k7-E2nRodJmA615un7dkbbPpombD7JTTBqQCKsPtiuaN1oRgqXpsX7BB96_FqBzWdW9BSbHcyNJ0tPSqjC8XPC7GtREfHwTsY/s1600/base+frame+1.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="827" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuG-fQ99K0SUhb9eaPx2JNPLU4xi-w-0c64uJKL2-y-k7-E2nRodJmA615un7dkbbPpombD7JTTBqQCKsPtiuaN1oRgqXpsX7BB96_FqBzWdW9BSbHcyNJ0tPSqjC8XPC7GtREfHwTsY/s320/base+frame+1.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">note: lead screw threads not rendered</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc8xP2-xJaRvKPaVRKmTC6XwC74liB12EYMGcEbNKfCZx5lZvnWmISNliAtDhkRcMhawTLU89VFdxftcy4wvirr1RuCNOlJGoY5crLPPE-takkqRxh8CiKg9__HIf7De3I3s4IHmoCFFk/s1600/base+frame+2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="633" data-original-width="842" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc8xP2-xJaRvKPaVRKmTC6XwC74liB12EYMGcEbNKfCZx5lZvnWmISNliAtDhkRcMhawTLU89VFdxftcy4wvirr1RuCNOlJGoY5crLPPE-takkqRxh8CiKg9__HIf7De3I3s4IHmoCFFk/s320/base+frame+2.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
The lead screw nuts are bolted with M3 lock nuts and screws to 3D printed clear PETG blocks. I used PETG for its heat resistance (close to bed), and clear because it matches the printer's color scheme. The front blocks are integrated with the new linear bearing blocks, which contain THK LM12LUU 12mm linear bearings. I opted for name brand linear bearings because they're only about 2x as expensive as cheap knock-offs when purchased from overstock sellers, e.g. Radwell. The LUU's are 57mm long, so I made the blocks 60mm tall, which is 20mm shorter than stock, which results in 20 mm more usable Z print space. The back nut block is integrated with a beam that the bed frame arms screw into.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1tdYlP4Msnt_ADTUmQ3OT9revzTSsbAVLT7pLE6fQUgM7JjIsyRo6xrtlKcwbKdL2L7yNCumVqSPk-JL52dXcVN8JJAGNaV8svwGdpTtxi_UV3F7b11DCzQtaY7MYA4E7jjYloQRjmII/s1600/back+z+block.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="412" data-original-width="888" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1tdYlP4Msnt_ADTUmQ3OT9revzTSsbAVLT7pLE6fQUgM7JjIsyRo6xrtlKcwbKdL2L7yNCumVqSPk-JL52dXcVN8JJAGNaV8svwGdpTtxi_UV3F7b11DCzQtaY7MYA4E7jjYloQRjmII/s320/back+z+block.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear nut block + bed mount</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98uCko3FnzDp7Qe0Uq1Vit81B8S1sywVg_1rmpkxaK58TMOd1zaBABJ996CUr8CFC2TPWlz-fFfveMkHXPmv1lQrrvSFuCNrouooi8YGzLTD0Y7qSBSsq8KUOmy6CkrX2f6FE3xaMwwU/s1600/front+z+block.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="561" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi98uCko3FnzDp7Qe0Uq1Vit81B8S1sywVg_1rmpkxaK58TMOd1zaBABJ996CUr8CFC2TPWlz-fFfveMkHXPmv1lQrrvSFuCNrouooi8YGzLTD0Y7qSBSsq8KUOmy6CkrX2f6FE3xaMwwU/s320/front+z+block.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front bearing + nut block</td></tr>
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<br />
The two front blocks bolt to a laser cut piece of 3/16" thick acrylic plate that spans the front of the printer. This replaces the flimsy polycarbonate one from the back of CubeX. I also etched a cube logo into it for fun. I integrated the linear bearing clamping mechanism with the slot that this plate gets bolted into; when the plate's bolts are tightened, the linear bearing is clamped in place. I used a combination of square nuts and melt-in inserts for these. Square nuts were used where I either didn't have the depth for melt-inserts, or I couldn't get the soldering iron in position. There are cylindrical cavities in the blocks for clearance over the Z motor couplers. This was done to maximize Z travel. The Z axis is now able to use all but 62mm (60mm tall blocks + 1 mm on either side for clearance) of the vertical shafts for print volume.<br />
<br />
Side note: As mentioned earlier, the Z-motors are the former extruder motors. In fact, all of the NEMA17's from CubeX are the same motor: Motion Control M42STH47-1684S. This line appears to be defunct, but I was able to track down a data sheet for them. Max current per phase is 1.68A, Holding torque is 43.1 Ncm, 48mm long, and 350g. This means the whole extruder assembly weighed at least 1.5 kg, making the whole X-axis somewhere north of 3 kg probably, which is kind of crazy...probably part of the reason this printer was so slow. These motors were way overkill for extrusion...no idea why they didn't use a smaller motor from the same line. It's not like they were trying to keep BoM size down or anything, considering the rest of the printer. Anyways...<br />
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The result of all of this is a Z-axis and bed frame for CubeXY that is properly constrained and rigid. The next section discusses the bed itself.<br />
<br />
<h2>
CubeXY Bed</h2>
3D printer bed and bed mount requirements:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Surface must be flat</li>
<li>Melted plastic must be able to stick to the surface</li>
<li>Bed material must be thermally conductive for even and fast heating</li>
<li>Bed must be level-able, but stable enough to not require constant re-leveling, despite thermal expansion of the bed. </li>
</ul>
<div>
The first requirement is best met with either glass or ground-flat cast metal plate, both of which are usually flat within 0.005". Melted plastic stick to both well, but both can also have a thin sheet of PEI bonded to them for enhanced adhesion. Glass is actually thermally insulating and difficult to attach to (can't easily drill holes in it), which is why it's often placed on top of a thin aluminum bed, which acts as a heat spreader and mount. Unfortunately, these thin aluminum beds often are not very flat because they aren't cast and ground, resulting in uneven contact, and thus uneven heating of the glass. A ground cast aluminum plate without any glass is a far superior bed surface. It's thermally conductive and easy to attach to for mounting. It is also electrically conductive, allowing the use of inductive Z-probes, which are one of the most accurate methods of bed location sensing (for travel limiting and mesh-based bed leveling). Railcore, Voron, Jubilee, and many other high end printers all use cast aluminum plate for heated beds. The only disadvantage is that its heavy and has a lot of thermal mass. The thinnest cast ground plate you can purchase in the US is 1/4" thick. Midwest Steel has the best prices I could find on cast ground aluminum plate and bars. The stock for CubeXY's bed and X-axis arm (20x21x1/4") was ~$90 shipped at the time of writing this. Some of the high end printers actually mill out a pocket in the underside of the bed for the heater to sit in. This reduces mass, so it's lighter and heats faster, without reducing stiffness much (because the edges are still full thickness). I decided not to mill out a pocket for the heater in the underside of CubeXY's bed. I don't think the performance increase was worth the extra cost of CNC time to do so, and the spec'd 800W heater should be more than sufficient for rapid heating.<br />
<br />
The above discussion covers the first three requirements. The fourth is more complicated, and it's probably best answered by reviewing my design process. I had two basic options for the bed: 1. Ditch the bed frame, vertical linear shafts, and linear bearings for rail guides and go full <a href="https://railcore.org/">railcore</a>/<a href="https://github.com/machineagency/jubilee/wiki">jubilee</a> style with the bed stiff enough to support itself, or 2. Keep the bed frame and put a bed on it. </div>
<br />
Option 1 would basically require throwing out the entire (well, what's left of it) CubeX printer, including the Z axis discussed above. It was partially because of this that I went with Option 2. This decision is also why I mentioned earlier that the bed/bed frame terminology was nebulous...I designed the Z-axis and the bed format together. Instead of somewhat-arbitrarily disregarding Option 1, I'm going to walk you through my design/thought process, which starts with a review of what Railcore and Jubilee do and why they do it.<br />
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Pictures are best. Here are Railcore II and Jubilee:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi4pI4ztF4CMpPuLQvaeGuJxYcfmZXIqgIbLkKH5IRN0nSQbnChvRfjpOXJeoAmF-8tE6eDVQ-FLvk1a0ybZToS9HkdIKeLpIrJTtHx9n6ln7AWLiceptMgWWEXF9UI5UKqb-VtwDz89M/s1600/railcore+z2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="603" data-original-width="428" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi4pI4ztF4CMpPuLQvaeGuJxYcfmZXIqgIbLkKH5IRN0nSQbnChvRfjpOXJeoAmF-8tE6eDVQ-FLvk1a0ybZToS9HkdIKeLpIrJTtHx9n6ln7AWLiceptMgWWEXF9UI5UKqb-VtwDz89M/s320/railcore+z2.jpg" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Railcore</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEcP90QlhoW1zvJ9XJ7-8s6sVhyh6u_lQKHavrFSPMjDVrDFrWsj4eYfpbC7vXjl1YH9cu5x8LWSJbAzAwtF044GIYvtFd9H56mWsBxqyV2bWN0GgDgCy3fLHF6aSP_G84iEB1hkDC4Io/s1600/railcore+z+kinematic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEcP90QlhoW1zvJ9XJ7-8s6sVhyh6u_lQKHavrFSPMjDVrDFrWsj4eYfpbC7vXjl1YH9cu5x8LWSJbAzAwtF044GIYvtFd9H56mWsBxqyV2bWN0GgDgCy3fLHF6aSP_G84iEB1hkDC4Io/s320/railcore+z+kinematic.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Railcore with kinematic bed mount</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPgGv0HEqMv2jYWhXg6ZdkgPVgLEdlsF5Dr_Uaw2TBGZOgybERFlwEDgHxd7gvCMf8jRUFCbKtIjZXds5kmocVMkj1fKHpE0XFXwlYvDwUYH62W5S6H_E1ehwWDcAvpKzxNEGbKCQUgo/s1600/jub2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="472" data-original-width="628" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPgGv0HEqMv2jYWhXg6ZdkgPVgLEdlsF5Dr_Uaw2TBGZOgybERFlwEDgHxd7gvCMf8jRUFCbKtIjZXds5kmocVMkj1fKHpE0XFXwlYvDwUYH62W5S6H_E1ehwWDcAvpKzxNEGbKCQUgo/s320/jub2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jubilee showing off its tool changer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjCzaxZfYK2oFE-KokkWKSEh0dgFLfGvpyjcUfkM9G3a9sLkKdDawzk8HeqjHxxVgaJOhqxKlcAhMYmEBK3jbEq0Ehz7RH-rmUSr0rMMMFWQnoP9dxwPJ-0hD0i6zho8Yi6l4EUfycvqk/s1600/jub1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjCzaxZfYK2oFE-KokkWKSEh0dgFLfGvpyjcUfkM9G3a9sLkKdDawzk8HeqjHxxVgaJOhqxKlcAhMYmEBK3jbEq0Ehz7RH-rmUSr0rMMMFWQnoP9dxwPJ-0hD0i6zho8Yi6l4EUfycvqk/s320/jub1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jubilee kinematic bed mount </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We'll start with the Z-axis, which is similar for both. The Z-axis uses three linear guides (not shafts+bearings) accompanied by three lead screws driven by independent steppers with plumb connectors. The steppers + leadscrew arrangement is very similar to what I have planned for CubeXY, but everything else is different. The linear guides technically constrain each corner (also calling the middle back of the bed a "corner") of the bed fully except in Z, which is handled by the screw nut. So each corner is fully constrained. This would normally cause mechanical problems if a bed and/or bed frame was rigidly attached to all three: the system is overconstrained. Neither of them use a bed frame, but the bed is milled from ground 1/4" aluminum plate, which is stiff enough to not need one. The first few versions of railcore rigidly attached the bed to the linear guides (see first railcore picture above)...while no specific issues were reported, this was fixed for the ZL, "Z leveling", version via the use of a "Kelvin kinematic mount" for the bed. Jubilee also utilizes a kinematic mount, though of the Maxwell type. I go into much more detail below about these, but for now, all that needs to be said is that a kinematic coupling perfectly constrains, but not over constrains, whatever is being coupled. Thus, the bed is not actually over-constrained for these printers, despite each Z column being fully constrained.<br />
<br />
Thus, I could have replicated this type of Z axis and bed for my printer. Railcore II ZL and jubilee have nice mechanical designs. However, I wanted to keep some of CubeX in CubeXY, so this simply wasn't an option. I did make some design decisions with this in mind for the future though...if I ever decide I don't want CubeXY anymore, I can transplant a lot of it to a new printer frame based on Railcore/Jubilee.<br />
<br />
I mentioned "kinematic coupling" earlier. A kinematic coupling is a fixture that exactly constrains a part, providing a precise and repeatable alignment, as well as compensation for thermal expansion/contraction. The principle of exact constraint means that the number of contact points equals the number of degrees of freedom. In order to exactly constrain something in 6 DoF (3 linear, 3 rotational), precisely 6 contact points are needed. The following picture depicts two types of kinematic mounts.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYCZUd1I-0_sddIU2rlObM_-APeeman395UDA-8438E8ND_gpeew7wzoM0-2yXpN8gDJ0r1sk5ZH4rrsipLIzo0bnegDVvb7iMdGalgG_dXILTyoHa_XAXvHFumEsZdBLLxWwaH9u4BvU/s1600/kinematic+mounts.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="141" data-original-width="358" height="157" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYCZUd1I-0_sddIU2rlObM_-APeeman395UDA-8438E8ND_gpeew7wzoM0-2yXpN8gDJ0r1sk5ZH4rrsipLIzo0bnegDVvb7iMdGalgG_dXILTyoHa_XAXvHFumEsZdBLLxWwaH9u4BvU/s400/kinematic+mounts.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left: Kelvin, Right: Maxwell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From the wikipedia article on kinematic couplings: the Kelvin mount consists of three spherical surfaces that rest on a concave tetrahedron, a V-groove pointing towards the tetrahedron and a flat plate. The tetrahedron provides three contact points, while the V-groove provides two and the flat provides one for a total required six contact points. The Maxwell kinematic system consists of three V-shaped grooves that are oriented to the center of the part, while the mating part has three curved surfaces that sit down into the three grooves. Railcore II implemented a Kelvin type kinematic mount. Jubilee and, as I show further down, CubeXY implement a Maxwell type. Railcore and Jubilee's beds have attached stainless steel balls or rollers that interface with the other pieces of the coupling (groove, rollers, flat plate, etc) on the blocks that attach the individual Z nuts and linear guide carriages. Looking at the above picture, the bed would correspond to the upper piece. However, it's harder to understand the correspondence for the lower piece. Kinematic couplings require the things they couple to be rigid. 1/4" aluminum plate beds are rigid. However, the rest of the coupling (the lower piece in the above figure) is made up of the Z blocks, linear carriages and Z lead screws, the aluminum extrusion that the linear guides attach to, which transfer load to the base frame, and around to the other vertical aluminum extrusions. In other words, the entire bottom half of the printer makes up the lower piece in the above figure, which clearly isn't ideal from a stiffness perspective. This is another reason I decided against Option 1; having a stiff bed frame is a potentially superior lower coupling part than half of a 3D printer's frame.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://practicalprecision.com/kinematic-mount-design/">This</a> and <a href="https://www.precisionballs.com/KINEMATIC_ENCYCLOPEDIA.php">this</a> website have some excellent descriptions of kinematic mounts and some other concepts. <a href="https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2017/07/ultra-megamax-dominator-3d-printer-bed.html?m=1">This</a> website has some more info applicable to a 3D printer bed, specifically of a Kelvin type kinematic mount.<br />
<div>
<br />
Going back to the previous section, CubeXY's Z-axis consists of a fairly rigid bed frame that is attached to 3 Z lead screw nuts and two vertical linear bearings. This system is fully constrained, and somewhat over-constrained in rotation about X and Y due to the vertical linear bearings. If the bed were not heated, it'd be perfectly acceptable to simply rigidly attach (bolt) it to the bed frame. However, if that's done to a heated bed, the bed and bed frame would experience large stresses due to the thermal expansion of the bed. Thus, I need to connect the bed to the frame in a way that does not over-constrain it and allows for thermal expansion.<br />
<br />
Side note: This is a good point to talk about the classic screws+springs method of mounting beds to 3D printers. The reason these are often finicky is that they do not allow for thermal expansion. When the bed expands, it moves/bends the screws. When it contracts, the move back. Each cycle results in a slightly different final position, which ultimately requires the bed to be re-leveled often. This problem is made worse if they have four screws+springs, one at each corner, because not only does this not allow for thermal expansion, it also over-constrains the bed (remember the four legged table analogy from above). This is why it's often recommended to remove one of the corner screws+springs, and I actually did this with my <a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/search/label/wanhao%20i3">Wanhao I3</a>. However, that doesn't solve the thermal expansion problem. So why is this bed mounting method still the norm? Because it sort of works and is very cheap to implement. Back to the original discussion...<br />
<br />
Thus, to meet requirement #4 in the list at the beginning of this section, I use a 1/4" thick cast ground aluminum plate bed mounted to the bed frame via a Maxwell kinematic coupling. Now all of the requirements for a heated 3D printer bed are met. Next, I'll discuss my implementation.<br />
<br />
Ideally, kinematic mounting surface are made of very hard materials, e.g. ceramics. This helps prevent deformation (dents) of the surface, which can compromise the integrity of the kinematic coupling. However, for the purposes of 3D printer applications, where the forces on the bed are small and the bed will not be removed and reattached often (not to mention that micrometer precision is not possible in FDM printers anyways), this requirement can be relaxed. Annealed stainless steel should be sufficient, and also inexpensive.<br />
<br />
I originally designed small stainless steel V-groove blocks, which I was going to cut with a 90 degree point end mill. However, the cost of the steel stock and end mill ended up being about $30. I figured that, if I insulate the bottom of the bed heater (which I was planning to do anyways), I could use PETG for the blocks that the bed mounts to. This allowed me to use 1/8" SS304 rod stock (~$1) to simulate a V-grove. You might have caught this earlier in the picture of the front nut block, but here it is again:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qlFEUw7B66FWe_NSf9X3QW5u-_nW_XIWW7vmBaAsnc4QgvFbE7oo4Ofkz1UtGbmXFotq_NtaDdJHhHAQHGsvRnpq-IR-1Um6DzkDfcPCp4OHgOHAM_nxoWp1qM3uG1H9iet_odIXZ_Q/s1600/back+z+block.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="412" data-original-width="888" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qlFEUw7B66FWe_NSf9X3QW5u-_nW_XIWW7vmBaAsnc4QgvFbE7oo4Ofkz1UtGbmXFotq_NtaDdJHhHAQHGsvRnpq-IR-1Um6DzkDfcPCp4OHgOHAM_nxoWp1qM3uG1H9iet_odIXZ_Q/s400/back+z+block.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here are the sides:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmgoegofbQK7Y5zRk0vXaCIfJx0s_s7D7zCySD5S8CsernDQssG97LsdV17LHO8WUUEhquFm6nIappUFWguLPntUFzPYn1XCA_nD0HAyuhghg2djSbwTHE4SqbeqYRoSTeKcXGX7HLO9k/s1600/left_mount.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="804" data-original-width="1149" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmgoegofbQK7Y5zRk0vXaCIfJx0s_s7D7zCySD5S8CsernDQssG97LsdV17LHO8WUUEhquFm6nIappUFWguLPntUFzPYn1XCA_nD0HAyuhghg2djSbwTHE4SqbeqYRoSTeKcXGX7HLO9k/s320/left_mount.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front left bed mount. Screwed to bed arm.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnVi4LUwr7snLGSUKcJxJ_C1fZhTQoAgt9a0A115f0sN-H5xGaTe-vp9m76g87yyosYuvCGVyc-I3xl-k-9hCGDxsYTR7v6RNUepX3gv2ok3RAsv2dTK8G9To0EMhtDwnevyzaDbZ40kc/s1600/right_mount.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="991" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnVi4LUwr7snLGSUKcJxJ_C1fZhTQoAgt9a0A115f0sN-H5xGaTe-vp9m76g87yyosYuvCGVyc-I3xl-k-9hCGDxsYTR7v6RNUepX3gv2ok3RAsv2dTK8G9To0EMhtDwnevyzaDbZ40kc/s320/right_mount.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front right bed mount.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The bed plate has 3x 8mm SS304 threaded balls (from eBay, search for M3 or M4 balls), which are screwed to the bottom of the bed using M3 countersunk screws. Each ball rest in a groove formed by two parallel 1/8" SS304 rods. These 6 contact points are the only contact points between the bed and the rest of the printer. 6 contact points: 6 constrained DoFs. The rods are held by the (clear) PETG 3D printed blocks. All kinematic couplings require some positive pressure to keep the two parts together: this can be with properly designed bolts (not-constraining) or springs (no lateral stiffness). I decided to do what Jubilee and Railcore do: attach a tension spring between a small screw in the bed and a small screw near the corresponding coupling block. While the weight of the bed would probably be sufficient, the springs provide some extra force to keep the coupling engaged. 3D printing the Z nut blocks and bed mounts of PETG (on my old Wanhao I3...took about 8 hours to get the settings tuned, ugh) saved a lot of CNC machining time, which is expensive compared to 3D printing time, and allowed me to design things to be more integrated, resulting in a lower part count.<br />
<br />
The angles of the grooves (rods) and the location of the balls are very important for a Maxwell kinematic coupling. The video in <a href="https://practicalprecision.com/laying-out-a-kinematic-mount-using-maxwell-criterion/">this link</a> explains how to layout a Maxwell kinematic mount. There are other various online resources that cover this material, as well. Basic method: First, draw a triangle by connecting all of the center of the balls. The center of a ball must lie in the plane of the contact forces (middle of the rods in my case), and the normal to the plane of the contact forces at each point must bisect the local angle of the previously drawn triangle. Here's a helpful diagram I found online (ignore all of the notation, just look at the ball/grooves):<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPMRh_gfRnlUfj5Wa8mdpjsbfqpP0VHMH7p4HRX8X-EWjhv9c3OCQ-Xarmmf8Vq9jOLyE1uPtyRDiu7BKZpzApriP3y7QC_2XyA7Jyny1AdBOTJF7ljHYcO3K431uMWuk6i1Ryx71esS0/s1600/maxwell+mount+1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="214" data-original-width="235" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPMRh_gfRnlUfj5Wa8mdpjsbfqpP0VHMH7p4HRX8X-EWjhv9c3OCQ-Xarmmf8Vq9jOLyE1uPtyRDiu7BKZpzApriP3y7QC_2XyA7Jyny1AdBOTJF7ljHYcO3K431uMWuk6i1Ryx71esS0/s320/maxwell+mount+1.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maxwell mount diagram</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
That completes this post. I hope I managed to convey some useful information for 3D printer Z axis and bed designs. If something wasn't clear, or if you have any corrections, please leave a comment. </div>
Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3714916083669099022.post-91791372831214644282020-04-09T23:39:00.000-04:002020-04-20T10:37:32.704-04:00Introducing CubeXYWow, went off the deep end with this one. It's absorbed almost all of my free time the past few weeks. Given the current corona virus mess, stay at home order, etc, I guess it's good I've had a project.<br />
<br />
I finally finished the design. The more I examined the original design, the more problems I found. I could probably write another post of just problems with the original design, but that's kind of pointless, so I won't. This post (sorry for the length) will detail the (re)design of this printer. Because I can't think of a better order, I'll start with a general overview, then go from the bottom up. Fabrication has begun, but that'll be in a separate post.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFnZ_vZDiNWgR3bzii9kGSuDfCflDD2QflBW-MB4iVTkLcuTsMXLxW4h6zhFBTW1AVotmr5R8koGxKHQsZRp5GkSHfaAd5SUaPCWiRBq3xOMssThXHDZ67JWS_siTcMiNK5WEAGzpgWjs/s1600/final_designc.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="802" data-original-width="813" height="630" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFnZ_vZDiNWgR3bzii9kGSuDfCflDD2QflBW-MB4iVTkLcuTsMXLxW4h6zhFBTW1AVotmr5R8koGxKHQsZRp5GkSHfaAd5SUaPCWiRBq3xOMssThXHDZ67JWS_siTcMiNK5WEAGzpgWjs/s640/final_designc.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CubeXY</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitqwQC3DXSzQxghil2Lt20eYl1jSxVercEqVvG26PrqiDAFLJMXQFyZhdcZJuhqDcNcyofUBNALJJuSWHEY6WfwPkc3wM_vQZLj6cM2LZ4OtVeSHufGIhy-8O8QkHsYb3Ntoptm5G538s/s1600/final_design_no_acrylic.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="842" data-original-width="835" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitqwQC3DXSzQxghil2Lt20eYl1jSxVercEqVvG26PrqiDAFLJMXQFyZhdcZJuhqDcNcyofUBNALJJuSWHEY6WfwPkc3wM_vQZLj6cM2LZ4OtVeSHufGIhy-8O8QkHsYb3Ntoptm5G538s/s640/final_design_no_acrylic.PNG" width="634" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Without acrylic shell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Major changes include moving the bed frame around 180 deg, switching to a single extruder, making the bed significantly larger, and changing the X and Y axes to CoreXY. The name "CubeXY" comes from merging the original printer name, "CubeX", with "CoreXY".<br />
<br />
Major features and specs:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>CubeX Trio Shell + major frame components</li>
<li>E3D Hemera Extruder</li>
<li>350x350mm build area</li>
<li>~280mm usable Z height</li>
<li>CoreXY</li>
<li>Hiwin MGN9 linear guide for X-axis</li>
<li>Kinematic bed mount</li>
<li>Ground aluminum bed plate</li>
<li>Three independent steppers for Z, automatic bed leveling/tramming</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 4B + 2x SKR v1.3 with TMC2209 drivers + 5inch HDMI touch screen</li>
<li>Internal horizontal spool holder</li>
</ul>
<br />
So, without further ado, let's start with the base.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Base</h2>
<div>
The screw on AL feet, multi-layer 3/16" acrylic base plate(s), 12mm stainless steel shafts, and AL base shaft holders are all used from the original CubeX. The main acrylic base plate has a few modifications. A bunch of holes will be drilled in it for M3 melt-in inserts, and a plug was 3D printed out of clear PETG to plug the largest hole, which was a clearance hole for one of their poorly designed, oft-jammed, proprietary filament holders. </div>
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja9whnn29swBywYPJ3DjpPRX5xbFK23a7TJJ7H9VhEqwg8SS1zWrDeSy08G2ys24dsbD1SdTnJ2JnOVV8wHk2fj-KSeCu0wFJe_Wny3kJgqvtpk5bkoOfFQ2ansGAuwmzQJxafxXmrvYQ/s1600/baseplate.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="701" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja9whnn29swBywYPJ3DjpPRX5xbFK23a7TJJ7H9VhEqwg8SS1zWrDeSy08G2ys24dsbD1SdTnJ2JnOVV8wHk2fj-KSeCu0wFJe_Wny3kJgqvtpk5bkoOfFQ2ansGAuwmzQJxafxXmrvYQ/s320/baseplate.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original base plate. I have not added all the melt-in insert holes to CAD.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsnou27yrgInYnx0ro_2rDZk3dK7gHvsAMJkcJlk8tmgqaXqSDtHVNQZEqF90cOTx_Tq2pQfHyvRVKf5gfGjrVlyRgyPLpKnHHJBjaQGox183Tf_a6MRiCUXHsOQjp6R5F1Egq4DhZzDM/s1600/plug.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="503" data-original-width="776" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsnou27yrgInYnx0ro_2rDZk3dK7gHvsAMJkcJlk8tmgqaXqSDtHVNQZEqF90cOTx_Tq2pQfHyvRVKf5gfGjrVlyRgyPLpKnHHJBjaQGox183Tf_a6MRiCUXHsOQjp6R5F1Egq4DhZzDM/s320/plug.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PETG plug. Screws in from the bottom with 7 M3 flat head screws.<br />
Two holes for M4 melt-in inserts for the SSR.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Side note: McMaster "Tapered Heat-set inserts for plastics" are my absolute favorite way to add threads to plastic parts. After using about 500 of them on some (very large) acrylic research slosh tanks, I can say with authority that they are the easiest way to add threads to plastic. They are also incredibly strong...I ran some tests on them, and the short 4-40 ones can easily hold 50 lbs continuous when set in acrylic. I literally could not pull them out. Another easy way to add threads to plastic parts, particularly 3D printed ones, and if you don't have enough depth and have a free edge, are drop in square or hex nuts (more on that later). Be wary of the cruddy knock-off brass melt-in inserts on amazon and eBay; they don't work nearly as well. McMaster has the CAD of the ones they offer, so you can see what a well designed insert looks like. They get melted in with a soldering iron (Weller SP40N, you can get it for 1/2 the price mcmaster sells it for), and special tips, but again, you can get these elsewhere for less than mcmaster, or turn your own out of brass stock (what I'm doing...about 1/10th the price). Pro-tip: For small inserts, plug and unplug the weller to regulate temperature...it gets too hot for small inserts. Also, if you can't afford the brass tips, you can use a normal soldering iron tip on the smaller inserts, but you'll have to get a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the insert in the part while you pull the iron out because the insert will stick to the iron's conical tip. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I'll be covering electronics in their own section, but I designed some 3D printed trays for the SKRs, Pi, relay board (for remote 24V power on/off for the SKRs), and 30mm SKR cooling fans. The SKRs have 3mm mounting holes, so I just designed the trays with through holes through the standoffs. M3 cap screws go through the SKR board, the tray, and into M3 melt-in inserts in the base plate. The relay board's tray is designed the same way. The PI has 2.5mm holes, which is kind of inconvenient. While M2.5 inserts exist, they and their tips would be another ~$20-30. Instead, I designed the Pi tray with two countersunk M3 holes in the bottom, the screw for which will screw into two more M3 melt-in inserts in the base plate. The Pi is held down to the tray with 4x M2.5 (actually english #2) self-tapping screws. The 30mm fan mount also uses M3 screws + M3 melt-in inserts, as do the filament guides. <i>Disclaimer: I did not create CAD models of the SKRs, Pi, power switch, relay board, or screen: just downloaded them from GrabCAD or other sites. Thank you nice people who uploaded them. </i></div>
<div>
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<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv7j5pHykrk_R3NCRpodxNv7gpdvsQAeV0438JHCHcQN7gu7UqXSGXTML3SXF_7q-RJoT_TeAXMVl2-dM0q_rvzFHuccBZpeMLZ007kw58sQzQmh1D42eBYiLK7a_6s7Fpe-GN7EiDJ0M/s1600/trays_filament_guide.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1532" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv7j5pHykrk_R3NCRpodxNv7gpdvsQAeV0438JHCHcQN7gu7UqXSGXTML3SXF_7q-RJoT_TeAXMVl2-dM0q_rvzFHuccBZpeMLZ007kw58sQzQmh1D42eBYiLK7a_6s7Fpe-GN7EiDJ0M/s400/trays_filament_guide.PNG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gray trays just visible under SKRs and Pi. Also visible: 30mm fan + mount and two filament guides. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRC70HpAjACB6p-dVNq08UzwZEWLrZBQ_pyb7zzjrnz0WUcWQJWLg-ubVmTJXZIYUbaLCctUBBVaUM4GDgGVp6kdRPl2kUZSP3MN0HhMDk_0VcPP6QvplH5EhW2uhG69fGLV2aSa4ertM/s1600/trays2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="824" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRC70HpAjACB6p-dVNq08UzwZEWLrZBQ_pyb7zzjrnz0WUcWQJWLg-ubVmTJXZIYUbaLCctUBBVaUM4GDgGVp6kdRPl2kUZSP3MN0HhMDk_0VcPP6QvplH5EhW2uhG69fGLV2aSa4ertM/s320/trays2.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom left: 24V PSU; top: SKR v1.3 + fan; right: SSR for bed heater; bottom right: relay board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The last major component attached to the base plate is the spool holder. I looked on thingiverse (btw, how in the heck did they manage to make the thingiverse interface EVEN WORSE??) for some horizontal spool holders, but I didn't like any of the designs I saw, so I made my own. Here's a side view and cross section of a 1kg spool and the holder:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Jz19puyM-uHReaUsKG-3iUgasfzgmCOHC4KnJ3KQaU0TV08Ft-9F7b6_aCNsv5cQURwErSFOI9ZPDDYJHGfm73hq63Nw8Jbe08gp_xac85m37FONqH4NJ6PlYv6xhWCRjU4bQNmbTZ8/s1600/spool+and+holder.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="1122" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Jz19puyM-uHReaUsKG-3iUgasfzgmCOHC4KnJ3KQaU0TV08Ft-9F7b6_aCNsv5cQURwErSFOI9ZPDDYJHGfm73hq63Nw8Jbe08gp_xac85m37FONqH4NJ6PlYv6xhWCRjU4bQNmbTZ8/s320/spool+and+holder.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga19m8BcNcTzxp6QycuNx75F0Y6mCq390VdiqUtwR6xdjMquGVKZGO3Tax4zoyzbpsGF3HM-TpfI8CBbPED5EyuppgPOZyneky0B538Y4bd5meADa1VQaP8pv61vm0RbLO73wzJOrHs14/s1600/spool+and+holder+xsection.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="1146" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga19m8BcNcTzxp6QycuNx75F0Y6mCq390VdiqUtwR6xdjMquGVKZGO3Tax4zoyzbpsGF3HM-TpfI8CBbPED5EyuppgPOZyneky0B538Y4bd5meADa1VQaP8pv61vm0RbLO73wzJOrHs14/s320/spool+and+holder+xsection.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
There's a base, which screws down to the acrylic base plate with 3 M3 countersunk screws, a standard skateboard ball bearing between the base and the bottom cone, a M3 threaded rod secured to the bottom cone that goes up to the top cone, which compresses the spool via a nut in a knob on the threaded rod. It had to be compact enough to fit under the bed when the bed is fully lowered, yet large enough to hold a full size 1kg filament spool. I also wanted it to be able to hold various smaller spool sizes, and the cones+threaded rod design allow this. I've already printed and assembled it, and initial tests seem to show it will work. Filament guides (shown earlier) guide the filament to a PTFE tube via a push-to-connect fitting. The tube goes up the back of the printer, secured using the original tube-securing acrylic pieces, and into a push-to-connect fitting in the Hemera.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Z-axis and Bed</h2>
Now is a good time to review the previous Z axis design and everything that was wrong with it. Due to the length of the discussion required to address that topic, I created a separate <a href="https://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2020/04/cubex-and-cubexy-z-axis-and-bed-design.html">post</a> for it, which also includes some more details of CubeXY's Z-axis and bed design.<br />
<br />
The Z-axis stepper motors (formerly the NEMA17 extruder motors) are attached to the 12mm frame shaft/rods with custom 3D printed clamp mounts. One is located where the previous NEMA23 was at the center back of the printer, and two are located at the front, one on each corner (see second figure of this post). These steppers drive, via plumb couplers, 8mm lead screws (T8x2), which move brass lead nuts that are secured to three points on the bed frame, which has been rotated 180 deg from original orientation in order to allow this. If the bed hadn't been rotated, there'd be a lead screw right in the middle front of the printer, which would be ugly and make getting parts out difficult. Zyletch sells the couplers and lead screws/nuts. Their precut lead screws are about half the cost of custom length ones, so I purchased 400mm long ones. I plan on leaving the Z-axis lead screws long. They don't interfere with anything, and this will allow for possible future Z expansion by replacing the four vertical frame rods with longer ones (along with wiring and acrylic shell modifications). Since three points determine a plane, using three lead screws/nuts prevents over-constraining the bed frame in rotation about X and Y and controls linear motion in Z. To counter linear motion in X and Y, and rotation about Z, two new THK 12mm linear bearings are used in place of the old Z-axis linear bearings. The new front linear bearing block-nut block combinations are 3D printed out clear PETG, and are 20mm shorter than the old bearing blocks (thus adding 20mm to the usable Z height). Thanks to the three Z nuts countering bed rotation about X and Y, the linear bearings shouldn't be torqued anymore, allowing for shorter ones. The bed mounts and rear nut block are also 3D printed out of PETG. The flimsy polycarbonate bed frame back plate (now front plate) was recut out of 3/16" acrylic with a cube logo etched in it. The bed mounts are actually a Maxwell type kinematic coupling, and the bed interfaces with the bed frame coupling via stainless steel balls. The bed plate is CNC milled out of 1/4" thick ground aluminum plate. It's asymmetric due to the asymmetry of the Hemera extruder: only the possible print area + 5mm on each edge is left to save weight and minimize excess aluminum (heat sink). I purchased the 800W, 350x350mm bed heater from Keenovo, which I didn't realize is a Chinese company...long shipping times. It comes with preapplied adhesive for attaching it to the bottom of the bed. I'll be insulating the bottom of the bed with a sheet of 3mm carbon welding blanket held on with high temperature aluminum tape. I got it off eBay; it's cheaper than cork and most other high temperature insulators. I'm planning to print directly on the aluminum bed, but if adhesion becomes a problem, thin PEI sheet can be purchased and adhered to the top. A thermal fuse will be adhered to the bed to prevent thermal run-away. Please refer to this <a href="https://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2020/04/cubex-and-cubexy-z-axis-and-bed-design.html">post</a> for more details on the Z-axis and bed mechanical designs.<br />
<br />
<h2>
X-Y Axes</h2>
<h3>
Review</h3>
The original CubeX Trio had two steppers for Y, both mounted at the back of the printer, one on +X and one on -X. Each side had a 6mm GT2 belt that looped around a pulley on the NEMA17 motor shaft and a smooth idler in the front frame corner cylinder things, and clamped to the Y carriage between laser cut plates. One of the Y carriages had another stepper motor on it with a pulley, and the other had a smooth idler pulley. A belt looped around these and was attached to the X axis extruder carriage. The extruder carriage was a water jetted and bent piece of steel, with three extruders + hot ends mounted to it. Just the extruder-carriage assembly probably weighed around 1.5kg, which I'm sure contributed to this printers' slow speed. There are more pics of these in previous posts, but here's one showing the whole X axis mechanism and part of the Y.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvw6UDQYaE2vPQUL3zCT2CDsWtsTBv0dl_4amF5fZ4N_898ZXsowES4iRV5B94pxKpz6yN3_cxXoaTrfvbqvJvPmuHQIXMf3JzJDs0NL8JztTfQvWIF6veJCPPt-U-v5luB9cZ4K_WtFI/s1600/IMG_20200119_193053495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvw6UDQYaE2vPQUL3zCT2CDsWtsTBv0dl_4amF5fZ4N_898ZXsowES4iRV5B94pxKpz6yN3_cxXoaTrfvbqvJvPmuHQIXMf3JzJDs0NL8JztTfQvWIF6veJCPPt-U-v5luB9cZ4K_WtFI/s320/IMG_20200119_193053495.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Apart from the high moving mass, the unbalanced mass probably didn't help speed and accuracy either. The X-axis stepper motor weighs 350g (in fact, all of the NEMA17 stepper motors were identical, even the extruder motors). That side's linear bearing block was also heavier. As a result of this mass imbalance, accelerations in Y would cause a torque on the X-axis. This is exacerbated by the very heavy X-axis, especially if when a Y move is done while the X axis is far off center. Since linear bearings are not designed to handle torques (only radial loads, see this <a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2020/04/cubex-and-cubexy-z-axis-and-bed-design.html">post</a> for more info), this would cause high bearing wear and slop over time. In fact, when I took the X-Y axis apart, the Y-axis bearings were very worn, likely because of this. The proper way to use linear bearings where torques will be present is to space two far apart so that the torque becomes two radial loads, but 3D printers rarely have room for this. Another option is to reduce the X-axis carriage/extruder assembly mass and balance the y-carriage masses, which is precisely what I did.<br />
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<h3>
CoreXY</h3>
It took a few iterations, with intermittent reciprocating application of my head to a wall (ow, ow, ow, ow), but I realized I could convert the X-Y axis to a CoreXY arrangement. CoreXY is the current de facto standard for X-Y axes in cube-like 3D printers. Here are some great links about it: <a href="http://corexy.com/theory.html">1</a>, <a href="https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2018/08/corexy-mechanism-layout-and-belt.html">2</a>, <a href="https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2017/07/ummd-corexy-mechanism.html?m=1">3</a>. There are many other good discussions/videos about the CoreXY mechanism available online, but I'll cover the basics here. A CoreXY geometry allows for X and Y motion of the extruder carriage with only two, fixed motors. It It uses two long-ish timing belts and pulleys to redirect forces/motion to achieve this. It also has a low moving mass, allowing for higher accelerations and speeds, compared to more standard X-Y mechanisms, like stock CubeX's. Here is a basic CoreXY layout:<br />
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<span style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahrDtxEPCfqqFwLM0zHz6TM4tv0lHbRb-lz4zZwre202SL6IZp1MBPZw2UBqbjPZM_5iMEeeX1Xn0GeiAsNQGCbwOiUmt-sptdmglvffQv4OmamoONYApsXd_UIPJD_Al5p2TwOE-LMg/s1600/corexy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="520" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahrDtxEPCfqqFwLM0zHz6TM4tv0lHbRb-lz4zZwre202SL6IZp1MBPZw2UBqbjPZM_5iMEeeX1Xn0GeiAsNQGCbwOiUmt-sptdmglvffQv4OmamoONYApsXd_UIPJD_Al5p2TwOE-LMg/s400/corexy.png" width="376" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Taken from link #1 above</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
The blue belt is slightly higher than the red belt. If you think about rotating each motor in different direction combinations (CW, CCW, etc), then follow the belts around, you'll see that different rotation combinations can achieve X and Y motion of the central carriage. One of the biggest advantages of this is that, if the carriage is translating in +X, both belts on the right of the carriage are under tension, which applies force on the extruder carriage, as well as the Y carriage on that side, symmetrically, eliminating torque imbalances that are seen in other XY designs, e.g. H-bot There are a few variations of CoreXY. Here's one that stacks the pulleys, which reduces the number of pulley shafts required and minimizes layout area.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYvqzwdig82gEY70pdG34I7qKVlGGHtV20m1NtcrN2a8PEEYVgGPJ0XqQHIhelr4A7utViM_acP1wVs-3XHOUgUYDONl5K9_-Qv6SlckxAV-m4N_ti_qyUChYjrLJsZ9qbYjiEpKUuJw/s1600/corexy+belt+layout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="988" data-original-width="1358" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYvqzwdig82gEY70pdG34I7qKVlGGHtV20m1NtcrN2a8PEEYVgGPJ0XqQHIhelr4A7utViM_acP1wVs-3XHOUgUYDONl5K9_-Qv6SlckxAV-m4N_ti_qyUChYjrLJsZ9qbYjiEpKUuJw/s400/corexy+belt+layout.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taken from link #3 above</td></tr>
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The reason the motor pulleys are larger and offset outboard is to make sure segments G and A are straight. In fact, all of the segments except K, M, M (probably should have been labeled N), and J in the above figure must be straight and aligned with their axes. If they are not, then the belt tension will change as carriage position changes, which is obviously bad. Link <a href="https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2018/08/corexy-mechanism-layout-and-belt.html">2</a> spends about 2000 words + figures trying to explain that last sentence in about every possible way. But logically, if you think about how the belt angles would change (and therefore their hypotenuse = length) as the Y and X axes move around, you can see how that the only configuration in which their length would not change is when they are parallel to their axes, as in the above picture. Taking belt thickness into account is actually important for proper corexy design. If you don't, then the belts won't be perfectly parallel, and you have the problem mentioned above. That link also showcases some spectacularly bad examples of corexy implementations where this rule was not followed, along with a lot of other helpful information I won't repeat here.<br />
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Another key consideration are the pulleys themselves. You want to use toothed pulleys if the teeth are in contact with the pulley, like A motor, B motor, upper and lower P3, upper and lower P4, lower P1, and upper P2 in the above figure. You want to use smooth pulleys if the back of the belt is in contact with the pulley (like upper P1 and lower P2). While you <i>can</i> have belt teeth in contact with a smooth pulley, the recommended smooth pulley size is large (equivalent diameter of a ~40T pulley, which is about 25mm for GT2). Another option is to twist the belts such that the belt backs contact the smooth pulleys. This is done in the BLV MGN corexy printer.<br />
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The main disadvantages of corexy are the long belts, which act like springs, and lots of pulleys, which can seize if they're poor quality and require careful support/structure design. Fiberglass or steel reinforced belts are strongly recommended, and upgrading from 6mm to 9mm wide can help too. I'm using 6mm fiberglass reinforced GT2 belt I got off eBay for $7/5m; It's very difficult to stretch, and should be sufficient when properly tensioned. Good quality pulleys are also important. I'll be using the stock Y axis motors and their pulleys for driving the belts. I bought 4 Gates GT2 aluminum idler smooth pulleys (5mm ID, 12mm OD, 15mm flange diameter) from Mcmaster ($9 each, ouch). They're slightly cheaper from printed solid. These are high quality: smooth bearings, well machined, etc. I also bought 4 Zyltech brand ones (5mm ID, 12mm OD, 18mm flange diameter) for $2 each. These were significantly worse quality. 3/4 had crunchy bearings that weren't pressed in very straight. Only 1/4 was immediately usable. And zyltech is actually a decent chinese reseller...I can't imagine how bad the no-name ones off of amazon or ebay are. The only nice thing about the Zyltech ones is that they're about 1mm thinner overall, which fits the vertical belt spacing slightly better. I did manage to get 2/3 bad ones working well by pressing the ball bearings in straighter, as well as oiling all of them. But one is still crunchy. Another option is to make your own pulleys from radial ball bearings + flanges, or from two flanged radial ball bearings, but I found that those could actually be more expensive depending on the bearings purchased. Anyways, if I can't get the Zyltech ones to work better (or replacements), I'll buy more of the Gates ones.<br />
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UPDATE (4-18-2020): Zyltech sent me a replacement pulley. I had to straighten the bearings in this one, too, and it also has a crunchy bearing. I'll just try using it anyways...if it fails, I'll put a Gates pulley in its place. Note to people buying cheap pulleys: buy about 2x the number you need, you might get a good full working set that way. I looked into replacing the bearings in them...if you manage to get the bearings out, new bearings cost more than the pulleys with the bearings, so I'm not sure that makes sense.<br />
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<h3>
HMCoreXY</h3>
I've talked a lot about corexy in general, and some of the small details, but I haven't talked about how I implemented it for CubeXY. I think I came up with a new CoreXY layout, at least it's one I haven't seen before. <span style="font-size: large;">I'm going to call it horizontal motor CoreXY, or HMCoreXY</span>.<br />
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The original CubeX's Y axis motors are mounted horizontally.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqfzBvIhRMnAl7XH6SW9wg7gvzYl-u36xJBSC50YjZrzw6kTStjMYOgjCqTF_omgBJ9k8GfVYiW74saq4EVWcUkw67BK6I7vYBfqnF8z7UaYduMaf_Wt-wH-5yt7Dz7K0bW-0KaB5QLNM/s1600/yaxis+motor.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="755" data-original-width="816" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqfzBvIhRMnAl7XH6SW9wg7gvzYl-u36xJBSC50YjZrzw6kTStjMYOgjCqTF_omgBJ9k8GfVYiW74saq4EVWcUkw67BK6I7vYBfqnF8z7UaYduMaf_Wt-wH-5yt7Dz7K0bW-0KaB5QLNM/s320/yaxis+motor.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
The original belt came out of the two holes (center of picture), traveled in Y to the pulley at the front of the printer, looped around this, and was secured to the Y axis carriage on this side. My CoreXY implementation involves twisting both of ends of the belts coming out of those holes 90 degrees so that their backs face in towards the inside of the printer. Same deal with the other side, twist the belt 90 degrees so that the backs of the belt face in towards the inside of the printer. The result of doing this is that the belts always contact pulleys with their backsides, without the need to impart 180 deg belt twists anywhere in the system. The following is a top down view of the new HMCoreXY belt setup. What were "upper" and "lower" belts in the above corexy diagrams are now "A" and "B" belts corresponding to the motors that drive them. Both A and B belts have portions that are on the upper and lower "paths".<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamu86BdrFxyqC-7h2EMbiPbBwuQBO9lmSxM5brEskdnbP0r1WkRiR51-OZz5pumIy0Uhh6S83LBByv1phOIbc5ovx9pJnDUboN-EfiYFnjr-l_ebTb8Lk3h8-jM6yJ3Un36MzZSTr154/s1600/cubexy+corexy+top+view+with+labels.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamu86BdrFxyqC-7h2EMbiPbBwuQBO9lmSxM5brEskdnbP0r1WkRiR51-OZz5pumIy0Uhh6S83LBByv1phOIbc5ovx9pJnDUboN-EfiYFnjr-l_ebTb8Lk3h8-jM6yJ3Un36MzZSTr154/s640/cubexy+corexy+top+view+with+labels.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HMCoreXY Belt Layout. Click to enlarge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Here is a picture of one of the front left (-X) top frame pulley block, which is the stock front left top left block re-machined to hold two pulleys vertically (rather than one horizontally). You can see the 5x30mm precision shoulder screw (from McMaster) head, both pulleys, and spacers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1NF1zp63nB00zPagtCxy31Q24dDr6srYDZOwh6fiKjE98pq-PSx6cUD7nN-bMaYHaqM11-gsAnVNBnvebKLDK-eLXSExmPJaFrRLGgpBAg9Bsx-dSRXxpLn-0Zv9DYz5m3WwXAWWgVqk/s1600/front+pulley+blocks.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="397" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1NF1zp63nB00zPagtCxy31Q24dDr6srYDZOwh6fiKjE98pq-PSx6cUD7nN-bMaYHaqM11-gsAnVNBnvebKLDK-eLXSExmPJaFrRLGgpBAg9Bsx-dSRXxpLn-0Zv9DYz5m3WwXAWWgVqk/s320/front+pulley+blocks.PNG" width="226" /></a></div>
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The following picture is of the right (+X) Y-axis carriage linear bearing block + pulley block. This one has two lower pulleys in it. The "B belt, upper path" belt travels through the pulley block above the two lower pulleys. The pulleys use 5x30mm shoulder screws and spacers. The pulley block is machined from 1.5x1.5, 1/4" wall (1x1" inside) square aluminum tubing. The MGN9 linear guide rail, which is used for X axis travel, is screwed to the back of the X-axis plate, which is CNC cut from the same 1/4" ground aluminum plate stock that the bed is cut from. The X-axis plate is screwed to 3D printed bearing blocks, and both have a light press fit with the 12mm linear bearing (THK LM12LUU, same as Z axis).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrsaXACxAl5aF9-rvYoxVDZbxx9FVxrEB6-8dNnnVOzGMNR5GL2xIjuGxq1al9MqgdI9DDpUN8kflWnxFCs7M7jM5M_gj2OROEjzAXIOKbDHbedIC5AsEqKu2v4bDZuZW_MLvnGCu6To/s1600/x+pulley+block+right.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="803" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrsaXACxAl5aF9-rvYoxVDZbxx9FVxrEB6-8dNnnVOzGMNR5GL2xIjuGxq1al9MqgdI9DDpUN8kflWnxFCs7M7jM5M_gj2OROEjzAXIOKbDHbedIC5AsEqKu2v4bDZuZW_MLvnGCu6To/s320/x+pulley+block+right.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
The left side (-X) one looks almost identical except the pulleys are both upper, the "A belt, lower path" belt travels through the pulley block below the two upper pulleys, and the X axis limit switch is screwed to the 3D printed bearing block.<br />
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The MGN9 linear guide rail is a genuine Hiwin linear guide, with an MGN9H carriage. I wrote more about linear guides in <a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2020/04/cubex-and-cubexy-z-axis-and-bed-design.html">this post</a>. Unlike linear bearings, linear rails/guides are designed to handle torques about all axes. Turns out they can handle quite a lot of dynamic force and torque, especially given their size...MGN9 rails are oversized for all normal-size 3D printers, MGN12 doubly so. Their torque rating is almost equal about all axes, so it didn't matter if the rail was mounted on its side like this, facing up with the extruder sitting on top of the carriage, etc. However, the nozzles in compact extruder-hot ends like the Titan Aero and Hemera don't reach far enough in -Z to clear the 1/4" aluminum plate backing the MGN9 rail when the extruders are mounted on top...I would have been stuck with a volcano extruder if I had wanted to do that. So I just turned the rail on it's side, which happens to make mounting a Hemera easier due to the nice mounting features on the sides of its extruder motor. Experienced readers will probably note now that some printers, e.g. Railcore, use an unsupported MGN12 rail for the X-axis. If I had done that, I could have mounted the rail facing up and still used a compact extruder-hot end. However, this goes directly against the recommended (Hiwin) installation guidelines of MGN series linear rail guides. <b>Linear guide rails are not supposed to be subjected to bending moments</b>. Their job is to constrain the carriage, not take large bending loads, which affect their accuracy. That being said, (good brand) MGN rails are made of high strength carbon steel. The loads that a 3D printer extruder assembly could apply to a MGN12 rail will not be able to cause a deflection significant enough to cause noticeable defects in parts. That's why railcore and other printers are able to get away with an unsupported X-axis rail.<br />
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Here is a picture of the extruder assembly. I designed everything to be as compact as possible. The Hemera extruder takes up one whole side. It's bolted to a 1/8" aluminum carriage plate, which is also bolted to the MGN9H carriage, which is buried under the fan (black) and 3D printed belt holder/tensioner assembly (white). I actually managed to obtain a 24V, 1.75mm Hemera (box says "Hermes", lol) before they all sold out due to the covid19 mess. I made sure to orient it such that the hot end's cooling flow is towards -Y, so that the carriage plate wouldn't block this flow (the passages in the hot end heat sink redirect the air flow all in one direction). The inductive Z probe is shown bottom center. Underneath this assembly is a custom designed cooling duct for the fan, printed out of clear PETG, and a thin 12V LED light that screws to the bottom of the extruder motor. The right (+X) side of the belt holder is static. The left (-X) side is the actual tensioner. Since both belts have one end secured to this tensioner, and since both belts should be the same length, both belts can be tensioned with one tensioner. The belts press into the tooth-ed slots and mesh together further in, effectively preventing them from being pulled out (tested to about 50lbf, no failures).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguyzH4tPxFBbN3qNasKTP1reH-BtYD7umD0Rz2seSJW7KGoyIMRjqiwP1t4qTt1oGie1oTPKtUoP7ukONzsAMNc7NzsHfnEE36JJCzynBXJExksCC8ZrEy73BP-3OvM_sk5a-E99Qc1R8/s1600/tensioner.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="674" data-original-width="757" height="355" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguyzH4tPxFBbN3qNasKTP1reH-BtYD7umD0Rz2seSJW7KGoyIMRjqiwP1t4qTt1oGie1oTPKtUoP7ukONzsAMNc7NzsHfnEE36JJCzynBXJExksCC8ZrEy73BP-3OvM_sk5a-E99Qc1R8/s400/tensioner.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The tensioner consists of a belt mount that runs on a printed track, kind of like a T-slot, but angled so it's actually printable (after a lot of trial and error searching for proper tolerances). Here's a back view of it without any other components:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPeMMG05WpbiMLg3JDt7JKodvIUMfVQwxJTTzgYpU0pbWeNpvoLLgfESGiCVlj5EBgnNSxS635US9WeteXxKxNFe1J2OkTDsqGSsIhAMeTi6E_mjajlvjD6hSLKDt_BeVVhtIhpVOFOyI/s1600/belt+tensioner+design.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="789" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPeMMG05WpbiMLg3JDt7JKodvIUMfVQwxJTTzgYpU0pbWeNpvoLLgfESGiCVlj5EBgnNSxS635US9WeteXxKxNFe1J2OkTDsqGSsIhAMeTi6E_mjajlvjD6hSLKDt_BeVVhtIhpVOFOyI/s320/belt+tensioner+design.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
The tensioning is done by tightening a long M4 cap head screw into an M4 heat-set insert in the other part of the assembly. I should be able to get approximately 30 mm of tightening with it, which should be more than enough. You can see the slot that the MGN9H sits in. Note how it is forked: it's designed to slide on from the +X side, which allows it to be taken on/off without unbolting the extruder. This assembly screws to the carriage plate with three M3 screws, and one M4 screw from the radial cooling fan.<br />
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The X and Y extents of the whole X axis extruder carriage assembly was carefully controlled to maximize X-Y build area, which is right around 354x354mm, which I rounded down to 350 x 350mm. Due to the asymmetry of the Hemera extruder, specifically the nozzle being closer to one end than the other, the build area is not symmetric about the central YZ plane of the printer; it's shifted in +X by about 20mm. This drove the bed to be asymmetric. All of these design decisions result in a nice, compact, strong, stiff, space efficient extruder/x-axis assembly.<br />
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I mentioned earlier that the belts coming from the motor pulleys are twisted 90 degrees so that their backs are facing the inside of the printer, and the teeth are facing out. If the 90 deg twist is located right at the motor pulleys, i.e. if the belt length between a Y carriage pulley and the motor pulley is very short (happens at the +Y travel limit), then the twist will make the belt want to come off the pulley. Luckily, the motor pulleys have large flanges that will prevent the belts from slipping off, but the twist could cause uneven belt wear. To minimize this problem, the Y axis pulleys were located as far in -Y (towards front of printer) as possible. In fact, the two furthest in -Y partially slip inside pockets in the left and right front top frame rod/pulley blocks.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwEyWPC8HiGpH-4EExunLee0DF8gQiaiHYPFQObkvttg8YFMmD6xevombEV0-fAhtAGSOAwTQdFHA5cKU9TCDxUd756sfokF0u0RYLVGYVrbGjGAvTYNKH2Yn6jsLDBqrE29vF2IzxGS8/s1600/y+limits+labels.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="464" data-original-width="996" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwEyWPC8HiGpH-4EExunLee0DF8gQiaiHYPFQObkvttg8YFMmD6xevombEV0-fAhtAGSOAwTQdFHA5cKU9TCDxUd756sfokF0u0RYLVGYVrbGjGAvTYNKH2Yn6jsLDBqrE29vF2IzxGS8/s400/y+limits+labels.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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This requirement and drove the Hemera to be mounted on the +Y side of the carriage plate, with the X-axis plate and rail as far towards -Y as possible. That, along with build area maximizing decisions, drove the Y-axis linear bearings to entirely on the +Y side of the X-axis plate.<br />
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The X-axis plate was designed such that the +Z side is just below the required lower pulley Z location, and the MGN9 rail was designed to flush with this top surface. This, along with careful X-axis extruder carriage plate design, maximized the usable Z build height, which can utilize all of the vertical frame rod height except for 62 mm (60 mm tall vertical linear bearing blocks + 1 mm on each side for buffer).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJHGiJCIe1jbp-0YBeYd4bzh5PqV1801TytlZJTPLd4IhR09qfQWpCB9T1OCwWvHsua0YY3trupUmLfteumcklMHJ_IvqUodYMygRhaerbQtkE-ZHotWVQHtuOhUphVRaWTk6J2Dml8g/s1600/hmcorexy.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="825" data-original-width="1142" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJHGiJCIe1jbp-0YBeYd4bzh5PqV1801TytlZJTPLd4IhR09qfQWpCB9T1OCwWvHsua0YY3trupUmLfteumcklMHJ_IvqUodYMygRhaerbQtkE-ZHotWVQHtuOhUphVRaWTk6J2Dml8g/s640/hmcorexy.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Potential Problems and Disadvantages</h3>
I've talked a lot about the advantages of the HMCoreXY setup. It will have all of the standard corexy disadvantages (mentioned above), but also one more. Note how both belt ends on one side of the X carriage are high and both belt ends on the other side are low. Because there isn't a mix of upper and lower like in normal CoreXY, there will be a net torque about Y due to belt tension, which will be exacerbated by -X accelerations. Luckily the moment arm is small, and I estimated that the maximum torque from this imbalance is around 1Nm. The MGN9H carriage can handle ~19 Nm about this axis, so this should not be a problem. There is no possible way to have one upper and one lower belt end on each side (and thus be able to stack the Y carriage pulleys) without heavily modifying the way the motors are mounted, or adding some sort of belt collision avoidance hardware when the belts are crossed vertically (usually a bad idea anyways). I tried for a few hours sketching out every possible permutation of belt positioning, and the one presented above is the only viable one with horizontally mounted motors.<br />
<br />
A potential problem I haven't touched on yet is related to the linear shafts/rods. The 12mm linear shafts/rods they used for both the frame and motion shafts are about 0.08mm undersized on the diameter. This causes noticeable slop, even with the new THK linear bearings (though not nearly as bad as the old worn out linear bearings). My mitigation plan for this is to move the vertical rods closer together in X by about 0.2mm, by grinding down the rods oriented along Y slightly if necessary. This will preload the linear bearings radially, which should prevent them from rocking on the slightly undersized shafts.<br />
<br />
The trio of proprietary extruders+hot ends were sacrificed to achieve 3x the build area of the original printer. I think this was worth the trade-off, especially since tool changers seem to be the future of multi-filament FDM printing.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Shell</h2>
<div>
The acrylic shell is the next major sub-assembly. I plan on keeping the CubeX Trio shell and modifying it a little. There are a few pictures of it in some of my <a href="http://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/search/label/Cubex">earlier posts</a> and online. The shell isn't just a cosmetic part. It screws into the 8 corner frame cylindrical blocks, providing torsional stiffness to the frame.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtkmpv5xR5-G-RdUFiEiEULcvcSnJsLxop4mBnVBFavvHX-jyEEFs__qbgsuSpy4k7jCqBRWsh8-IO48GeI8XcrYqxwygbkJ_tWRcaqK4EmbxPBaxRIgjMu0ZHwx-KXFhxXTJWA2HkSg/s1600/acrylic+shell.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="752" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtkmpv5xR5-G-RdUFiEiEULcvcSnJsLxop4mBnVBFavvHX-jyEEFs__qbgsuSpy4k7jCqBRWsh8-IO48GeI8XcrYqxwygbkJ_tWRcaqK4EmbxPBaxRIgjMu0ZHwx-KXFhxXTJWA2HkSg/s400/acrylic+shell.PNG" width="381" /></a></div>
<br />
The lid was lost sometime before I obtained the printer, so I had to laser cut a new one from 3/16" acrylic. I included matching 10mm holes in the top. I designed small 3D printed cups to go in these holes, and the cups hold 6mm neodymium disk magnets, which honestly don't seem to do much to hold the lid on...appears to mostly be held on by its weight. I might try gluing in 10mm disk magnets if I find that the lid needs to be held on.<br />
<br />
The big openings on the front and sides do not have doors. I will probably laser cut some 3/16" acrylic door panels and use some small hinges to create doors for them at some point. If I do that, then the printer will be sealed, which means I need an exhaust fan. I'd probably put these in the side doors.<br />
<br />
The acrylic shell held the original touch screen. This was also lost before the printer came to me, but it looks a little small in the pictures I've seen of CubeX Duos/Trios. I decided to use a 5 inch HD capacitive touch screen. I also decided to recess it in the front in the same place the old touch screen was. This required cutting the hole bigger and some fairly complicated bevel design. The bevel is made of three 3D printed parts (not including letters). One front plate (bezel) and two back plates. Four M3x10 countersunk screws go through the back plates, through the holes in the screen PCB, and into M3 square nuts that are held in the front plate behind the bezel. The back plates and front plate sandwich the acrylic, holding the screen and bezel in place. The bevel and screen stick out only 0.8mm.<br />
<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCotrhIQxY0I2Kv1e6hU9kCPmriAlhsNni64Qi2xPonJEGpoqq7ImSQ4LWbtEq5eR4RHfmaJGx5EZoDkel6mlrQ72nmMV3aYQZ_OUO1BpNyWI7exDdKi-iAUPPSVUviaCcEGlcBhVhpl4/s1600/bezel_back.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="629" data-original-width="486" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCotrhIQxY0I2Kv1e6hU9kCPmriAlhsNni64Qi2xPonJEGpoqq7ImSQ4LWbtEq5eR4RHfmaJGx5EZoDkel6mlrQ72nmMV3aYQZ_OUO1BpNyWI7exDdKi-iAUPPSVUviaCcEGlcBhVhpl4/s320/bezel_back.PNG" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bevel back</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifEmnv2lw_hBFlBL5XkY76a9otATTI0lsvGAccyIxxUwr-W-TvJoGnjkhE2xSvID1Bz9bWsXQxI6X9TXPsePJLro2zOGUIHiJwDneQIwkaJMnnvgu-sgT_mLkZxq6E-FbZFkUoXs7xoFs/s1600/bezel_screw_xsection.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="789" data-original-width="168" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifEmnv2lw_hBFlBL5XkY76a9otATTI0lsvGAccyIxxUwr-W-TvJoGnjkhE2xSvID1Bz9bWsXQxI6X9TXPsePJLro2zOGUIHiJwDneQIwkaJMnnvgu-sgT_mLkZxq6E-FbZFkUoXs7xoFs/s320/bezel_screw_xsection.PNG" width="68" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bevel cross section</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />I 3D printed the bezel parts out of white PLA. I designed the "CubeXY" letters with the same font and size as the decal on the front of the printer, and I printed them out of shiny silver PLA flipped so that the smooth side would be be seen. They were glued on with CA. The hole was enlarged with a fine toothed coping saw and file.<br />
<br />
I'm not sure how the original CubeX Duo/Trio got power into it. For CubeXY, I bought a combination fuse, switch, and C14 power socket (bottom right of first picture in this section). The socket has countersunk holes for M3 screw, which will screw into melt-in inserts in the acrylic. The hole will be cut in the same was as the screen. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h2>
Electronics</h2>
List of controller requirements:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>At least 6 stepper drivers capable of 1.7A</li>
<li>32 bit controller</li>
<li>24V power</li>
<li>Good community development for troubleshooting help</li>
<li>Lots of peripheral inputs</li>
<li>Ability to use a touch screen</li>
<li>WiFi</li>
</ul>
<br />
Most 3D printer stepper driver boards have 5 stepper drivers: X,Y,Z, and two extruders (or two Z's). The need to drive 6 stepper motors made finding the control electronics a little tricky. That, along with the other requirements, really narrowed down my options to the following:<br />
<ol>
<li>Duet2 Wifi + Duex2 or Duex5 + PanelDue 5i (~$360)</li>
<li>Duet3 6HC + Raspberry Pi 4 + touch screen (~$320)</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 4B + two SKR v1.3s + touch screen (about $200) running klipper</li>
<li>Like 3, but with two ramps boards (about $150) instead of the SKRs</li>
</ol>
The RAMPS boards would have had to been modified for 24V operation, and are generally less feature rich, so I disregarded that one. Options 1 and 2, even knock-offs, would be expensive. Thus, I chose Option 3. The Raspberry Pi 4B will run Klipper firmware and Octoprint. My current work flow is: STL-Cura on my laptop-slice gcode-save to SD card -move SD card to my printer-use screen on printer to select the file -print. Octoprint will allow me to STL-Cura-slice-print...much easier.<br />
<br />
The SKR v1.3's will also run Klipper. Klipper splits the processing up among the Pi and the control boards, and has an active development community. Since I'm planning to use Klipper, I wouldn't see much of a performance increase from the faster chip on the SKR v1.4 Turbo. I bought the SKR v1.3's with 10x TMC2209 drivers from Amazon (BigTreeTech brand). I could have saved a little bit if I had bought them directly from BigTreeTech, but I figured I'd get them faster from Amazon and with a better return policy. I don't need 10 drivers, but it was the same price as getting 5+1, so why not. I haven't researched the various TMC2209 options, but I'll at least do 16 or 32 microstepping. I bought the Pi 4B from PiShop, along with a <a href="https://www.pishop.us/product/5inch-hdmi-lcd-h-display-800x480-capacitive/">5 inch waveshare HDMI touchscreen</a>, 3A USB C power supply, Pi heat sinks, etc.<br />
<br />
The mounting features for the Pi and SKRs are described in the base section above, and the screen mounting is described in the shell section above. The screen requires a HDMI (full) connection and a micro USB connection to the Pi, which has a miniHDMI and USB-A. Cables come with the screen, including a mini-full HDMI adapter, but the HDMI cable is too short, so I bought a 3ft HDMI-miniHDMI cable from pishop along with the screen. I'll probably need to get a longer USB cable, too. The screen bezel/mount was designed with clearance for the connectors and buttons on the sides of the screen.<br />
<br />
I bought some makerbot-style PCB limit switches, which have an analog filter implemented. This <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/hardware/endstops.html">link</a> has a good discussion on switch filtering and a picture of the type of switch I bought near the bottom. I plan on using one for the min X limit and one for max Y limit. The X axis limit switch will be screwed to one of the Y axis linear bearing blocks and trigger off the back of the extruder motor. It will have to modified slightly because the PCB is too long as-is. My plan is to bend the cable connector vertical and cut off some of the PCB. The Y axis limit switch will screw to a small 3D printed part that uses one of the left motor's mounting screws to hold it in place. The Y axis linear bearing block has a feature for pressing the Y limit switch.<br />
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<br />
Mechanical switches have excellent accuracy and repeatability. Even better are inductive probes, but they require an electrically conductive surface to sense off of. Since the bed will be aluminum, an inductive probe will work well for the Z limit switch (max Z), as well as for bed probing. I purchased a "LJ12A3 4 Z/BX" NPN NO inductive probe from pishop along with the Pi. The inductive probe triggering distance is related to the driving voltage...24V is the recommended minimum for this probe. The SKR's (and most controller board's) probe/switch inputs are 5V. If the probe's power is 24V, then when the switch closes, it will try to drive the signal line to 24V, which will fry the control board. I think the Duet2's have built in circuitry for inductive probes, but the SKR's do not. There's a neat trick to get around this problem, though. A <a href="https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/vishay-semiconductor-diodes-division/BAT85S-TR/BAT85SCT-ND/3104371">BAT85 diode</a> is put in the signal line and oriented such that when the probe signal wire is high (triggered, 24V), no current will flow to the SKR input pin, so the SKR pin will read high (5V) due to its internal pull-up resistor, which can be activated in the firmware. When the probe signal wire is low (open 0V, not triggered), current will flow from the SKR through the diode and probe to ground, which will pull the SKR pin low. The <a href="http://vorondesign.com/">Voron</a> uses a Pi with two SKR v1.3's. Here are a couple links from its documentation explaining the inductive probe wiring: <a href="https://www.voron.dev/home/voron-2-2-supplement/2-2-manual-breakdown/2-2-wiring-diagrams">1</a>, <a href="https://www.voron.dev/home/voron-2-2-supplement/skr-1-3-configuration/SKR%201.3%20Setup%20Guide.pdf">2 pg. 6</a>. While I'm not 100% sure, I think this will only work with NPN NO inductive probes. You could always use a voltage divider, voltage regulator, or opto-isolator on the signal line to drop the 24V down to 5V if you're uncertain.<br />
<br />
As mentioned in the shell section, I'm not sure how the original CubeX Duo/Trio got AC power into it. For CubeXY, I bought a combination fuse, switch, and C14 power socket off eBay and will mount it into the side of the acrylic shell.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh73fBqgYOfB-LRTa8cjFhUAlkHhWHAaw08F4C1Qe6l3wzVc-D0yntW-uHyGSikCrWzU9TH94dpa2R_DhNgfo-vuGQ2937DxR5gdSGAnaG2iOK6BVmM0b1VP1jshgnC66otVcCULFxmokk/s1600/power+socket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="224" data-original-width="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh73fBqgYOfB-LRTa8cjFhUAlkHhWHAaw08F4C1Qe6l3wzVc-D0yntW-uHyGSikCrWzU9TH94dpa2R_DhNgfo-vuGQ2937DxR5gdSGAnaG2iOK6BVmM0b1VP1jshgnC66otVcCULFxmokk/s1600/power+socket.jpg" /></a></div>
It's rated for 10A, and I'll be using a <a href="https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/schurter-inc/0034.3127/486-1226-ND/640142">10A fuse</a> in it. The bed heater is 800W, the 24V PSU is 200W, and Pi is ~15W, which is bit more than 9A at 110VAC. I doubt I'll ever see that power draw level, though...worse case load on the 24V PSU is about 100W. The switch will be wired in the hot and neutral lines. The hot line will split and go to: 1. the relay board, 2. the solid state relay (SSR), 3. the Pi wall wart power supply. I bought the relay board off of eBay for $7.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJjBCAtSZfqLxoVYOhiAuqtcgZUltRTO2kW21NwpAQtV4kxwZUCYhyWIBAj02MB48G21EEHOGAVythwyawucJ5T03J2NRGlj6jxzqgPgS_-y6Uw3T0NPFmsQYDTdmrwhrZIKukzHglZDo/s1600/relay+board.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="676" data-original-width="842" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJjBCAtSZfqLxoVYOhiAuqtcgZUltRTO2kW21NwpAQtV4kxwZUCYhyWIBAj02MB48G21EEHOGAVythwyawucJ5T03J2NRGlj6jxzqgPgS_-y6Uw3T0NPFmsQYDTdmrwhrZIKukzHglZDo/s320/relay+board.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The two channel one was cheaper than the one channel ones, go figure. This takes 3.3 or 5V logic and controls, via opto-isolators, AC relays. The hot line coming from one of these relays goes to the 24V PSU hot input screw terminal. The control pin, 5V, and ground come from some of the Pi's GPIO pins. This allows the 24V PSU power to be controlled by the Pi. Since the Pi is powered by an independent power source, remote turning on and off of the SKRs will be possible. As implied by the last sentence, the 24V PSU DC power screw terminals are wired to the SKR input power terminals. The second hot AC split goes to a AC pin on the SSR. The other AC pin on the SSR connects to the bed heater hot line. The control side of the SSR is connected to a SKR's bed heater output terminals. The 5.1V, 3A usb wall wart power supply for the Pi was actually cheaper than an unpackaged 5V PSU. I'll either sacrifice an extension cord for the socket, or connect AC power to its prongs with female blade terminal connectors and heat shrink over them. The neutral AC line splits after the switch and goes to: 1. the 24V PSU neutral input screw terminal, 2. the neutral line of the bed heater, and 3. the Pi wall wart power supply. The incoming AC ground line will split and go to: 1. the 24V PSU ground input screw terminal, 2. the 3D printer's frame, and 3. the heated bed. <a href="https://www.voron.dev/home/voron-2-2-supplement/2-2-manual-breakdown/2-2-wiring-diagrams">This link</a> had a wiring diagram that's pretty close to what I'll be doing. The mounting features for the relay board, SSR, and 24V PSU are described in the base section above.<br />
<br />
The bed heater is a <a href="https://keenovo.store/">Keenovo</a> 110VAC, 800W, 350x350mm silicon heating pad. It comes with an adhesive back for adhering to the bottom of the bed. I opted for an AC heater due to the large thermal mass of the bed. While a lower power DC heater would work, it would take a lot longer to heat up. More about the bed itself is in the base section above and in <a href="https://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/2020/04/cubex-and-cubexy-z-axis-and-bed-design.html">this post</a>. The heater connects to the neutral power line and the hot line coming from the SSR. I purchased the SSR from Zyltech. It's rated for 25A (probably more like half that...), but I won't be putting anymore than about 9A through it. Inline with the hot line, and adhered to the bottom of the bed under the insulation, will be a <a href="https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cantherm/SDF-DF152S/317-1136-ND/1014765">thermal cutoff</a> (TCO) fuse. This is important for high power heaters in case of a temperature sensor failure. If the bed temperature sensor fails, it can cause the bed heater controller (embedded in the SKR firmware in this case) to think the bed is cold, thus applying full heating power continuously to the bed, which would probably start a fire. The thermal fuse will blow around 150C, preventing thermal runaway. I'll probably be using a normal thermistor for the bed temperature sensing, and it will be connected to the SKR bed temperature sense terminals.<br />
<br />
The inductive Z probe is mounted to the X-carriage next to the radial part cooling fan. This fan is a <a href="https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/MF50151VX-B00U-A99/259-1829-ND/7691033">Sunon MF50151VX-B00U-A99</a>, the most powerful (highest flow and static pressure rating) 5015 cooling fan you can buy (I've spent hours looking), and I've been using it on my Wanhao I3 for years now with great success. Unfortunately, it's 12V, and they don't make a 24V version, so I'll probably have to use a buck converter (cheap on eBay) to drop the voltage from 24V to 12V. If I connect the inputs to the buck converter to the 24VDC + and -, which are also connected to the SKRs, I should be able to just connect the +12V output of the buck converter to the fan, and the - line coming from the SKR fan terminal to the fan because the SKRs use the - pin for PWM/switching. Oddly, there aren't any 24V 5015's that are as powerful. Mounted under the extruder motor is a 12V LED light, which came from CubeX's X-carriage. The SKRs have 5V and input voltage (24V) outputs, so I'll probably have to use another buck converter (or possibly the same one) for that. Also might be able to run that off of the Pi's GPIO with a transistor or relay so that the Pi can be used to turn the light on and off. The 24V version of the Hemera has a 24V cooling fan, NEMA17 stepper motor, 24V heater core, and a hot end thermistor, all of which will be connected to a SKR.<br />
<br />
The SKRs have their own 24V, 30x30x10mm cooling fans, which I bought from Zyltech. These will be connected to their controller cooling fan terminals. I aimed them so they'd mostly blow across the motor driver heat sinks.<br />
<br />
Since the shell has three big openings in it, I don't have any exhaust fans at the moment. If I add doors to the openings, I'll also add exhaust fans, which I'll connect to a SKR's exhaust fan terminal.<br />
<br />
The three Z motors will be connected to one SKR. The X,Y, and extruder stepper will be connected to the other.<br />
<br />
I purchased good quality stranded 22 AWG, 3 and 4 conductor shielded wire off eBay. 22 AWG was chosen because it's large enough gauge for the motors and heater core, while still being small enough for standard JST crimp connections. It's important to use stranded wire if the wire will be moving, e.g. the X-axis limit switch. I could have used smaller conductor cable for the switches, but 22 AWG wasn't much more expensive, so I bought that for future possible projects. Shielding the motor cables (4 conductors) is important for reducing noise. The 3-conductor cable is for the limit switches and Z probe. One 4-conductor cable will be used for the 12V LED light and the radial cooling fan. The shielding drain wires will all be connected to chassis ground on one end. I also bought a JST crimp connector kit, which included a bunch of connectors, pins, and the crimping tool off Amazon for $28 (though it still isn't here yet due to covid19 delays). The wiring harnesses for CubeX were all custom jobs, with white sleeving. I don't plan on putting that much effort into the cables. They'll be properly routed and restrained with adhesive cable clips, and run through drag chains/cable trays where necessary. I'll probably 3D print the drag chains if the ones that came with CubeX don't work. The AC power wiring will be with ~14 AWG stranded silicon wire, which I had left over from some other (abandoned) <a href="https://mitrocketscience.blogspot.com/search/label/LITE">projects</a>. I'll be using crimp/solder fork terminals for the 24V PSU connections, and other terminals where necessary. Cable management is important!<br />
<br />
On the software side of things, I haven't delved into Klipper yet. I plan on starting with Voron's configuration files and modifying them for my needs. I'm a decent hobbyist programmer, so I'm pretty sure I'll be able to handle it, and there's great documentation. The basic way it works is: First, you SSH into the Pi with your PC. Then you install Octoprint and Klipper on the Pi. You use Klipper on the Pi to generate Klipper firmware files for the SKRs, which you copy back to the PC with SCP. Then you copy that firmware file onto each of the SKR's SD cards one at a time, then put them back in the SKRs and power them up. Then you configure octoprint and create the printer configuration file, which will contain info about your printer's configuration, how to talk to both SKRs, etc. After that, and assuming the hardware is all set up, it's time to run calibration and checkout tests, such as testing movement directions and limit switches. Automatic bed tramming, where the independent Z axis motors are used to level the bed, is done with the "z tilt" klipper script. After that is run, "bed mesh calibrate" can be run to perform a mesh calibration. Given the ground aluminum bed plate and automatic bed tramming, the mesh calibration should show an almost dead flat bed. All of these calibrations and checkout tests will probably take the better part of a day assuming no major problems. There's also configuring octoprint and installing add-ins, such as the one for PSU control and bed mesh height map visualization. I'll probably have a whole post dedicated to software/firmware setup.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Aesthetics </h2>
I endeavored to keep CubeX's aesthetic intact. Everything is color coordinated: silvers, clear, translucent, with a little bit of black and white. As an example, the new screen's bevel is white, just like the original, and I matched the "CubeX" (decal on front of the printer) font and color for the 3D printed "CubeXY" letters under the screen.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Conclusions</h2>
<div>
By fixing the major design problems with the original CubeX Trio, I've created a design for what will hopefully be an excellent 3D printer.<br />
<br /></div>
<h2>
To-do</h2>
<div>
Fabrication is probably about half done and will be discussed in a separate post. Parts acquisition is about 80% done. Covid19, while possibly providing a little more time for me to work on this, also threw a wrench in the economy, which I'm feeling as massive shipping delays for some components, e.g. anything from Amazon. Thus, I've been trying to buy things off of eBay or locally, even if they're a little more expensive. Probably a good thing to do anyways, since Amazon is scary big now.</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>First fabrication post</li>
<li>Finish fabrication</li>
<li>Finish acquisition </li>
<li>Assemble printer</li>
<li>Install electronics, wire them</li>
<li>Software setup</li>
<li>Checkout and calibration tests</li>
</ul>
</div>
Jed Storeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01020024838811382932noreply@blogger.com3