Craftsman Table Saw Refurbishment, part2

 Made some more progress disassembling the table saw. Bought a set of 3-jaw external pullers from Walmart.com for $17...even cheaper than Harbor Freight, but the reviews were good, and they worked great.

Pulling the broken pulley off, super easy with the right tool

Pulling the motor pulley off

Both pulley keys were rusty, but in good shape, so I probably won't need new keys.

Removing the lift pivot

I can't pull the arbor shaft out until I get some snap ring pliers, and I won't be able to pull the arbor bearings without an internal bearing puller. Next, I unbolted the trunnion brackets, which freed the whole trunnion. 

Yay, saw disassembled!

I could hear the bearings when I spun the motor shaft, which is never a good sign. So next up was motor disassembly:

Bracket clamp thingy

Motor mounting brackets off. 

So much dust and rust

bleh

More bleh. Gonna clean all of this up

Rotor assembly. Not really sure what the springy thing on
right is. Motor manual calls it an "actuator". Anyone know?

Stator and coils look good.

I could feel the radial play in the front bearing (eek). The rear bearing didn't have radial play, but was a little crunchy. Yeah, definitely need to replace those. Turns out that the bearings were pressed onto the shaft, not into the end bells, so I could use the external pullers that I used on the pulleys to pull them off. This was kind of tricky. You have to get the tips of the jaws onto the side of the inner race and hold them there while you turn the puller screw. You can't pull by the bearing shield or outer race or the bearing might come apart. Also, the tip of the screw leaves an ugly divot in the end of the shaft. I have some grinding stones/small files I'll use to remove the burr, but that's kind of annoying. I understand why it has a point, though; without it, the screw would work its way off the end of the shaft as you screwed it.

Small puller got the rear bearing off

The 4" bearing puller just barely fit.

One I got the front bearing moving, it slid freely up until it hit the rusty part of the shaft. What I should have done at this point was use a scrubby and WD40 to get all the rust off the shaft. I tried just pulling the bearing off first, but it got stuck on the rust, which made holding the jaws on the inner race too difficult. Ended up using a steel cylinder with a hole in it that I happened to have in the scrap bin and a hammer to tap it back down the shaft. Then I did the scrubby and WD40 thing, and it just slid right off. Facepalm*

Stuck. 

Tapped it back off the rust

Slid right off after cleaning the rust off

The bearings are NSK 6203Z-5/8 's (5/8" ID, 40mm OD, 12mm wide). Definitely not original, so someone has done this before. NSK is a good brand, I may buy the exact same ones. 

The only thing left to disassemble is the arbor shaft (need snap ring pliers and small internal bearing puller). I'll start cleaning and evaporust'ing in the mean time. 

Workbench, part4

Another workbench progress update. I installed most of the 2x4 horizontal beams. I couldn't install three because one of the bandsaw bearing pivots must be installed first, but I did dry fit them. 

Dry fit stack up

Rear bandsaw stop notch block. Lots of pocket holes.

Corner glue up before mounting.

I also haven't installed the horizontal beams that need to be cut lengthwise because cutting those will require a table saw, and I'm refurbishing mine. 

Craftsman Table Saw Refurbishment, part1

I bought a 113 series Craftsman table saw off FB marketplace/craigslist a few months ago. It worked, but it was pretty rusty, so I wanted to refurbish it. It's also way too heavy for me to lift onto the workbench, so I'd have to disassemble it anyways. I took lots of pictures during this process, and put fasteners in labeled bags so I'd be able to put it back together. 

before disassembly

So much rust

First step: remove the belt

Then removed the motor + motor mount.
The two pins slide out, so the whole assembly comes off.

                                                        

Removed the blade next. No arbor flats,
so I used a block of wood to keep the blade from spinning.

Took the fence bars and wings off

Flipped it over onto another furniture dolly

Had to disconnect the bevel screw before I
could slide the box off towards the rear.

Trunion assembly exposed. So much rust

Made some good progress prying the arbor pulley off until I broke it. Sigh...

Used the handwheel to screw the lift screw out after removing the retaining rings.

Current state of disassembly. 

Obviously a lot left to do on this one. 

• Buy a 3-jaw external puller and pull pulleys off
• Buy an internal slide hammer puller, or make something equivalent, to pull the arbor bearings and motor bearings out. The bearings are old, and while they aren't in horrible shape, I might as well replace them while everything is apart. 
• Buy replacement pulleys and key stock. I'm going to buy some machined steel pulleys from in-line industries; they should be better balanced and lost longer than cast iron/zinc ones. I already have a link belt, which are supposedly the best.   
• Buy replacement bearings. I'll probably buy some mid-high quality ones because replacing them is such a pain. I have a hydraulic press, so installing them shouldn't be too bad. 
• Buy replacement fasteners. Most of the old ones are too rusty to save, though I'll attempt it. 
• Finish disassembly
• Make sure to mark the motor casing and ends so that I reassemble it in same orientation. 
• Clean dust, paint, grime, etc. off all of the parts. Scotchbrite and WD-40. 
• I may need to flatten the arbor face if it's rough/not flat. Luckily, I have a mini-lathe, which will make that easy. 
• Use Evaporust on everything to remove the rust. 
• Spray CRC corrosion inhibitor on almost everything to prevent it from re-rusting. A lot of people use "T9 Boeshield", but I already have the CRC from a project a long time ago, so I'll just use that. 
• The paint on the motor and box is in decent shape. I'll need to derust and touch up a few spots, but I shouldn't need to do any repainting. 
• The side of the box with the bevel screw-wheel mount bows out due to the force of the bevel screw, so I'm going to reinforce it with some 1/2" plywood. 
• Reassemble everything. 
• The manual lists things that need oiling, so I'll do that while I'm reassembling it. Some people suggest using paraffin wax or dry lube instead because they tend to collect less dust. 
• The wings are slightly bowed, but this video shows a good process for getting them level with the center top. 
• If there's not enough clearance in the trunion mount bolt-holes to get the blade aligned, I'll buy the in-line industries PALS system, which supposedly makes alignment easy. This video is pretty good for regular alignment. 
• Apply johnsons paste wax to the top. The CRC coating is a little gummy (the T9 stuff is too), and the paste wax will make the top slippery, while providing additional protection. 
• 3D print insert plates, including a zero clearance one with holes for a splitter behind the blade. 

I'm planning to replace the fence eventually. I'll do a big write up on that later, but the short of it is that I didn't find any table saw fences that I like or that were reasonably priced. So I'll leave you with this teaser: 

Like some of my previous teasers, this may take a long time to come to fruition, if it ever does...