Craftsman Table Saw Refurbishment, part2

 Made some more progress disassembling the table saw. Bought a set of 3-jaw external pullers from Walmart.com for $17...even cheaper than Harbor Freight, but the reviews were good, and they worked great.

Pulling the broken pulley off, super easy with the right tool

Pulling the motor pulley off

Both pulley keys were rusty, but in good shape, so I probably won't need new keys.

Removing the lift pivot

I can't pull the arbor shaft out until I get some snap ring pliers, and I won't be able to pull the arbor bearings without an internal bearing puller. Next, I unbolted the trunnion brackets, which freed the whole trunnion. 

Yay, saw disassembled!

I could hear the bearings when I spun the motor shaft, which is never a good sign. So next up was motor disassembly:

Bracket clamp thingy

Motor mounting brackets off. 

So much dust and rust

bleh

More bleh. Gonna clean all of this up

Rotor assembly. Not really sure what the springy thing on
right is. Motor manual calls it an "actuator". Anyone know?

Stator and coils look good.

I could feel the radial play in the front bearing (eek). The rear bearing didn't have radial play, but was a little crunchy. Yeah, definitely need to replace those. Turns out that the bearings were pressed onto the shaft, not into the end bells, so I could use the external pullers that I used on the pulleys to pull them off. This was kind of tricky. You have to get the tips of the jaws onto the side of the inner race and hold them there while you turn the puller screw. You can't pull by the bearing shield or outer race or the bearing might come apart. Also, the tip of the screw leaves an ugly divot in the end of the shaft. I have some grinding stones/small files I'll use to remove the burr, but that's kind of annoying. I understand why it has a point, though; without it, the screw would work its way off the end of the shaft as you screwed it.

Small puller got the rear bearing off

The 4" bearing puller just barely fit.

One I got the front bearing moving, it slid freely up until it hit the rusty part of the shaft. What I should have done at this point was use a scrubby and WD40 to get all the rust off the shaft. I tried just pulling the bearing off first, but it got stuck on the rust, which made holding the jaws on the inner race too difficult. Ended up using a steel cylinder with a hole in it that I happened to have in the scrap bin and a hammer to tap it back down the shaft. Then I did the scrubby and WD40 thing, and it just slid right off. Facepalm*

Stuck. 

Tapped it back off the rust

Slid right off after cleaning the rust off

The bearings are NSK 6203Z-5/8 's (5/8" ID, 40mm OD, 12mm wide). Definitely not original, so someone has done this before. NSK is a good brand, I may buy the exact same ones. 

The only thing left to disassemble is the arbor shaft (need snap ring pliers and small internal bearing puller). I'll start cleaning and evaporust'ing in the mean time. 

Workbench, part4

Another workbench progress update. I installed most of the 2x4 horizontal beams. I couldn't install three because one of the bandsaw bearing pivots must be installed first, but I did dry fit them. 

Dry fit stack up

Rear bandsaw stop notch block. Lots of pocket holes.

Corner glue up before mounting.

I also haven't installed the horizontal beams that need to be cut lengthwise because cutting those will require a table saw, and I'm refurbishing mine. 

Craftsman Table Saw Refurbishment, part1

I bought a 113 series Craftsman table saw off FB marketplace/craigslist a few months ago. It worked, but it was pretty rusty, so I wanted to refurbish it. It's also way too heavy for me to lift onto the workbench, so I'd have to disassemble it anyways. I took lots of pictures during this process, and put fasteners in labeled bags so I'd be able to put it back together. 

before disassembly

So much rust

First step: remove the belt

Then removed the motor + motor mount.
The two pins slide out, so the whole assembly comes off.

                                                        

Removed the blade next. No arbor flats,
so I used a block of wood to keep the blade from spinning.

Took the fence bars and wings off

Flipped it over onto another furniture dolly

Had to disconnect the bevel screw before I
could slide the box off towards the rear.

Trunion assembly exposed. So much rust

Made some good progress prying the arbor pulley off until I broke it. Sigh...

Used the handwheel to screw the lift screw out after removing the retaining rings.

Current state of disassembly. 

Obviously a lot left to do on this one. 

• Buy a 3-jaw external puller and pull pulleys off
• Buy an internal slide hammer puller, or make something equivalent, to pull the arbor bearings and motor bearings out. The bearings are old, and while they aren't in horrible shape, I might as well replace them while everything is apart. 
• Buy replacement pulleys and key stock. I'm going to buy some machined steel pulleys from in-line industries; they should be better balanced and lost longer than cast iron/zinc ones. I already have a link belt, which are supposedly the best.   
• Buy replacement bearings. I'll probably buy some mid-high quality ones because replacing them is such a pain. I have a hydraulic press, so installing them shouldn't be too bad. 
• Buy replacement fasteners. Most of the old ones are too rusty to save, though I'll attempt it. 
• Finish disassembly
• Make sure to mark the motor casing and ends so that I reassemble it in same orientation. 
• Clean dust, paint, grime, etc. off all of the parts. Scotchbrite and WD-40. 
• I may need to flatten the arbor face if it's rough/not flat. Luckily, I have a mini-lathe, which will make that easy. 
• Use Evaporust on everything to remove the rust. 
• Spray CRC corrosion inhibitor on almost everything to prevent it from re-rusting. A lot of people use "T9 Boeshield", but I already have the CRC from a project a long time ago, so I'll just use that. 
• The paint on the motor and box is in decent shape. I'll need to derust and touch up a few spots, but I shouldn't need to do any repainting. 
• The side of the box with the bevel screw-wheel mount bows out due to the force of the bevel screw, so I'm going to reinforce it with some 1/2" plywood. 
• Reassemble everything. 
• The manual lists things that need oiling, so I'll do that while I'm reassembling it. Some people suggest using paraffin wax or dry lube instead because they tend to collect less dust. 
• The wings are slightly bowed, but this video shows a good process for getting them level with the center top. 
• If there's not enough clearance in the trunion mount bolt-holes to get the blade aligned, I'll buy the in-line industries PALS system, which supposedly makes alignment easy. This video is pretty good for regular alignment. 
• Apply johnsons paste wax to the top. The CRC coating is a little gummy (the T9 stuff is too), and the paste wax will make the top slippery, while providing additional protection. 
• 3D print insert plates, including a zero clearance one with holes for a splitter behind the blade. 

I'm planning to replace the fence eventually. I'll do a big write up on that later, but the short of it is that I didn't find any table saw fences that I like or that were reasonably priced. So I'll leave you with this teaser: 

Like some of my previous teasers, this may take a long time to come to fruition, if it ever does...

Workbench, part 3

Workbench progress.

Pocket hole screwing + gluing the table saw box on.

Those are Wen 4" pocket hole clamps. They just barely fit 2x4 pocket holes edge on like that. They help keep the 2x4s aligned while driving in the pocket hole screws. 

Adding edge banding to the shelves. Tiny $12 palm-sized iron works perfectly.

Needed some edge band trimmers, so printing those while I put the edge banding on

The edge band trimmers use M3 melt in inserts

Also did some of the M3 melt in inserts for CubeXY. Yes, that's still going to be a thing...eventually. Got to use one of the melt in insert soldering iron tips I turned awhile back. 

These work great. Found them on thingiverse.

Edge banding done, time to stain:

Factory edge=bad

I sanded them with 220 grit, wiped the dust off, cleaned them with mineral spirits, and then sealed them with stain primer. I stained the edges (banding) of the table saw shelf golden oak, but didn't bother staining the rest of it since it won't be visible. I stained the router shelf "golden pecan", however, it came out a lot redder than I was expecting. Lessons learned: The Varathane "premium" stain colors are NOT the same as the "classic" stain colors. The classic golden pecan doesn't have much red in it and is what I used for the base shelves. The premium golden pecan is actually very close to the classic "Ipswich Pine". Meh, luckily it's a workbench, and I'm already mixing a ton of wood tones, so it doesn't really matter. The edge banding didn't take the stain as much as the plywood. Also, factory edges, while straight, need to be cleaned up because the stain will accent the underlying grain.

While I had the printer going, I decided to use up some old shitty (Eryone brand, bleh) filament I had and print some wood working tools. 

♫ Part of a marking gauge, two mini sanding blocks,
and a set of center finding of guides ♫ (3rd day of Xmas)

Right angle clamp blocks, printed two sets ~800g

Time to install the table saw shelf:

Screwed on the table saw vacuum adapter

Clamped, then screwed down the shelf.

Looks good, very rigid

I won't be able to see the top surface, so I didn't bother filling in the screw holes. I installed the router shelf next: 

Left side of shelf. Center: The Mini-Motivator 

This was tricky. I drilled (normal sized, not the "HD" ones) pocket holes in the bottom of the left side of the shelf to screw to the left vertical 2x4s. There's a 3/16" thick spacer that has to go on the right side between the shelf and the horizontal 2x4, which I made by gluing together strips of 1/8" and 1/16" plywood. That shim is necessary because the left bandsaw pivot bearings mount to the top of that horizontal 2x4, and they need to be at a specific height. I used glue in all of the joints and used a ton of clamps to hold everything in place while I drove in the pocket hole screws. Leveling the shelf required a lot of unclamp-shift something-clamp-check level operations. Weirdly, while I was doing that, I realized that the shelf couldn't be clamped flush to the horizontal 2x4 in order to be level. 

Uh-oh...the shim needed shims.

The shelf ended up needing to be spaced about 1/16" lower at the back than the front. It was then that I checked level of the top of the horizontal 2x4: it was slanted. Hmm... re-measuring the back vertical 2x4 it was resting on showed that it was about 1/32" too long. Then I checked the CAD. Ugh, that same 2x4 was 1/32" too long. Didn't notice because it was such a small interference. 1/32+1/32 ... there's my extra 1/16". By this time, it was too late to fix because I'd already screwed it all together and the glue had partially set. So I used the handheld belt sander to sand down the top of the horizontal 2x4. 

Now it reads level. 

I also screwed on a few more horizontal 2x4s. These required a bit of fancy clamping, but all the joints came out good. 

A bunch of the horizontal 2x4s need notches cut in them. Some need to be re-sawn, which I'll need the table saw for, so I'm going to start refurbing that soon.