3D printing more things

I've been printing stuff for work and fun recently.

Sharkenbear, or "Bark" as I like to call it. I tried Cura's adaptive layer method with these settings: 0.175 primary layer thickness, with a max variation of 0.075, results in a min of 0.1 and max of 0.25. This causes some off-nominal layer blobs because the coast and extra prime settings for pressure compensation don't change, but not too much. You can tell where it switched layer thicknesses by the shiney-ness changes. Managed to resolve the teeth, which is pretty cool. I had to print some extra fins from another shark model and glue them on because three fins came off with the support removal. Removing the supports from inside the mouths and under the toes was a huge pain, too.

I designed and printed some horseshoe name plates for a horse barn. First time (successfully) switching filaments mid print. The cura plugin for pause at height or filament change don't seem to work well with the i3, so I followed the instructions in this post: https://3dprinterwiki.info/duplicatori3/pause-at-layer-height/ . It was pretty simple to modify the gcode.

I designed and printed this for work, can't really say what it is. Made from three pieces glued together. Too much extra prime on the long bit, so I had to sand the seam down.

I'm currently printing a new x-axis belt tensioner. Hopefully this one works better than the previous ones I've tried. The previous ones all had little nubs that the belt wrapped around; the problem is that those nubs always shear off, even if printed at 100% infill. They just aren't large enough to handle the belt tension. This one has a much larger nub/hub thing. I'm not too sure that the tightening ratchet thing will work, but I can always use zip ties if it doesn't.
UPDATE (Jan 2020): It works much better. I tried using a button head screw + locknut for the ratching knob first, but the hex stripped. Tried to use a screw extractor to get the screw out, but then the hex holding the locknut in stripped. I had to drill a couple holes near the hex nut in order to hold it with pliers, then use the screw extractor to get the screw out. I used a socket head cap screw (bigger hex) after that, worked much better. The belt seemed to be held in place fine without zip ties, but I added them anyways. I then re-leveled the Z axis and lubed all the bearings and lead screws. I haven't printed anything yet, but it should have less X axis ghosting now.